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1.
杨世伦  李鹏  郜昂  张经 《海洋学报》2006,28(5):56-63
于2004年8月17~24日在胶州湾北部红岛潮滩上用OBS-3A和ADP-XR观测了水深、浊度、水平和垂直流速、回声强度、波浪、盐度、水温等水文泥沙要素,同时采集了悬沙和底沙样品作粒度分析.结果和结论为:(1)潮流动力较弱,表层和近底层最大流速分别只有31和26cm/s;(2)弱潮流动力导致潮周期大部分时间的悬沙浓度小于30mg/dm3,但浅水阶段近底悬沙浓度为100~1000mg/dm3;浅水阶段的短暂高悬浮泥沙浓度和其余长淹没时段的低悬沙浓度共同构成悬沙浓度的“U”形潮周期过程线;(3)悬沙浓度的垂直成层分布主要发生在潮周期的深水阶段和平静天气;(4)由于潮流弱和风浪的干扰,悬沙浓度未呈现大小潮周期的变化规律;(5)水体盐度为23.6~29.5;(6)淹没期的温度(21.4~28.6℃)比出露期的(19.3~30.9℃)稳定,温度极高值出现在午后出露期,而极低值出现在凌晨出露期;(7)“浅水效应”是弱动力潮滩泥沙运动的重要特点.  相似文献   

2.
As reported in preceding paper (Part 1. Soil Fluidization), the observed phenomena of sediment suspensions above a fluidized sandy bed of Sand II (d50 = 0.092 mm) under monochromatic wave actions are quantitatively investigated. The suspended sediment concentration (SSC) at a single point within 5 cm above the bed was synchronously measured with water waves and bed soil's pore pressures with an intrusive optical sediment-concentration probe. The measurements show that SSC initiates several wave cycles after initiation of bed soil's fluidized response and grows to a peak value mainly in the post-fluidization phase. Under similar wave loadings in the same test series, SSC is usually higher over a resonantly fluidized (RF) bed than over a non-resonantly fluidized (NRF) bed. On the contrary, only relatively low SCC can be identified above an unfluidized bed. The analyses illustrate that to certain extent, peak values of SSC are directly proportional to the thickness of fluidized soil layer df. Values of df usually decrease with repeated fluidized response, longer consolidation periods, and in deeper water depths. Once the fluidized responses initiate, pore pressures are generally much significantly amplified in both shallow fluidized soil layers and near below the fluidized layer, especially during the resonance event. The resulting depth gradients of dynamic pore pressure amplitudes in shallow layers are likely to have caused higher initial rises of SSC in a RF bed than in the subsequent NRF bed. Those in deeper layer should have contributed to sustain the fluidization state for further SSC increments. Immediately after termination of wave loading, re-deposited suspended sediments always result in a typical flat bed form. For a pre-fluidized bed, wave-induced drastic sediment suspensions are still obtainable very near above the bed with even a rather thin fluidized surface soil layer.  相似文献   

3.
江苏小庙洪牡蛎礁的地貌-沉积特征   总被引：6，自引：3，他引：6  
利用卫星影象和野外实地勘察资料对江苏小庙洪牡蛎礁的地貌-沉积特征进行分析。结果表明，该牡蛎礁发育在强潮淤泥质潮坪上，造礁牡蛎主要是近江牡蛎和长牡蛎，表层的鲜活牡蛎为褶牡蛎。牡蛎礁区海水属盐度较高(27—30)的半成水，含沙量较大，为0．2—0．3g／L。活体牡蛎堆积体顶面高于周围潮间下带滩面1．0—1．5m。潮流较强，多在0．5—2．0m／s。海岸剖面可分为4个带，即礁后潮间带、潮沟、礁体生长带及礁前斜坡带。由于处于海岸侵蚀段，礁后潮坪缺失潮上带和大部分的潮间上带。礁后潮坪主要以粗粉砂为主，礁后潮沟冲淤变化较大，故礁体生长带时而为一沙洲，时而又与岸滩相连。礁体生长带分布在潮间下带，可看到独立的斑状礁体、带状礁体和大面积环状礁体群。环状礁的微地貌可以划分为礁塘(泻湖)、塘口和塘沟、塘口三角洲、礁墙和礁平台等。  相似文献   

4.
Unfluidized soil responses of a silty seabed to monochromatic waves   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  
A flume experimental study on unfluidized responses of a silty bed (d50=0.05 mm) to monochromatic water waves had shown that pore pressure variations were generally poro-elastic in the bulk body and displayed two other characteristic features not found in previous laboratory sand tests. They were an immediately fluidized thin surface layer induced by wave stresses inside the seabed's boundary layer and a porous skeleton with internally suspended sediments due to channeled flow motions. The analyses verified that on soils beneath the measurement points, both features resulted in relatively small-step pore pressure build-ups, while the former played a primary role. Besides, laboratory observations confirmed that there were some near-bed sediment suspensions during wave actions resulting in a flat bed form over a silty bed compared to small-scaled ripples over a sandy bed with no clearly identified suspended sediments. These characteristic silt responses suggest that sediment transport is critically associated with the internal soil responses and some field-observed sediment suspensions near above sandy beaches can further be approached in the laboratory by utilizing fine-grained soils.  相似文献   

5.
悬沙浓度是淤泥质海岸重要的环境指标。为探讨潮滩悬沙浓度和悬沙输运对风暴事件的响应过程及其动力机制,于2014年9月"凤凰"台风过境前、中、后在长江三角洲南汇潮滩进行了现场观测,获得同步高分辨率的水深、波高、近底流速和浊度剖面时间序列(9个潮周期)。结果表明,风暴中平均和最大波高、波-流联合底床剪切应力、悬沙浓度和悬沙输运率可比平静天气高数倍;风暴期间高潮位低流速阶段悬沙沉降导致近底发育数十厘米厚的浮泥层(悬沙浓度大于10 g/L)。研究认为风暴事件中淤泥质海岸悬沙浓度和悬沙输运的剧烈变化其根本动力机制是风暴把巨大能量传递给近岸水体,进而显著增大波-流联合底床剪切应力,导致细颗粒泥沙再悬浮。  相似文献   

6.
Laboratory experiments using a wave flume were designed to examine the threshold condition for ripple formation under asymmetrical oscillatory flows on an artificially roughened bed. Three types of sand beds were prepared in the experiments: they were flat, notched, and notch-mounded beds with bed roughness increasing in this order. The beds were constructed with three kinds of well-sorted sand with similar density, but different diameters. Data analyses were made using the two dimensionless parameters: the mobility number, M, a simplified form of the Shields number, and the Ursell number, U, a surrogate for asymmetry of flow field. The result confirmed that the threshold for ripple initiation is decreased with increasing bed perturbation and that as the bed perturbation increases, the dependency of this threshold on the flow asymmetry becomes less and finally null for the notch-mounded bed. This relationship is quantified by the following equations: M=17−14.5e−0.03U on the flat bed, M=5.0−2.5e−0.1U for the notched bed, and M=2.5 for the notch-mounded bed. A comparison between the previous field data and the present laboratory findings indicates that the threshold in the notch-mounded bed experiment, M=2.5, seems to provide a critical condition for rippling in the natural environment.  相似文献   

7.
Field data from a microtidal estuarine intertidal flat (Tamaki estuary, New Zealand) are used to analyse very small waves (height <10 cm; period 1.0–1.8 s) and associated sediment resuspension under light winds. Mean spectral period at the bed varied over the tidal cycle, driven by changes in surface-wave spectrum and depth-attenuation of orbital motions. Wave-orbital currents exceeded 30 cm/s, disturbing the fine-sand (100–200 μm) matrix of the seabed and resulting in the release of fine silt (particle size <20 μm) at concentrations >120 mg/L. Resuspension was initiated when ∼40% of the maximum zero-downcrossing orbital speeds in a burst exceeded the critical speed for initiation of sediment motion. Sediment concentrations were highest around low tide, when waves were smaller compared to high tide because of a reduced fetch but depth-attenuation of orbital motions was less because the water was shallower. Wave period exerted a control on sediment resuspension through the wave friction factor. There was a hysteresis in the wave Reynolds number such that it was greater on the ebbing tide compared to on the flooding tide: since it did not exceed 3 × 105 the bed was hydraulically smooth, and the wave friction factor therefore is inversely proportional to wave period. Hence, the tidal-cycle hysteresis in wave Reynolds number translated into a smaller wave friction factor on the ebbing tide, and accounting for this caused the ebb and flood sediment concentration data to collapse onto one curve when plotted against wave-induced skin friction. A simple model is presented to evaluate the relative contribution to sediment resuspension of waves associated with weak and strong winds. At the base of the flat (waves competent to resuspend sediment for 5% of the inundation time), waves associated with stronger, infrequent winds dominate resuspension. At the top of the flat (waves competent to resuspend sediment for 30% of the inundation time), waves associated with lighter, frequent winds dominate resuspension. Moderate winds – neither the strongest nor most frequently occurring – dominate resuspension integrated across the profile. The mass of sediment resuspended by waves is greatest towards the top of the flat: shoreward of this, resuspension is smaller because of wave dissipation; seaward of this, resuspension is smaller because of greater depth-attenuation of orbital motions. The location of maximum sediment mass resuspended by waves and the location of maximum duration of resuspension are not necessarily the same.  相似文献   

8.
Infra-gravity wave generation by the shoaling wave groups over beaches   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
A physical parameter, μb, which was used to meet the forcing of primary short waves to be off-resonant before wave breaking, has been considered as an applicable parameter in the infra-gravity wave generation. Since a series of modulating wave groups for different wave conditions are performed to proceed with the resonant mechanism of infra-gravity waves prior to wave breaking, the amplitude growth of incident bound long wave is assumed to be simply controlled by the normalized bed slope, βb. The results appear a large dependence of the growth rate, α, of incident bound long wave, separated by the three-array method, on the normalized bed slope, βb. High spatial resolution of wave records enables identification of the cross-correlation between squared short-wave envelopes and infra-gravity waves. The cross-shore structure of infra-gravity waves over beaches presents the mechanics of incident bound- and outgoing free long waves with the formation of free standing long waves in the nearshore region. The wave run-up and amplification of infra-gravity waves in the swash zone appear that the additional long waves generated by the breaking process would modify the cross-shore structure of free standing long waves. Finally, this paper would further discuss the contribution of long wave breaking and bottom friction to the energy dissipation of infra-gravity waves based on different slope conditions.  相似文献   

9.
The stability properties of a baroclinic zonal current with nonlinear velocity profile are investigated. The integral method is applied to the governing eigenvalue equation having the vertical velocity as the dependent variable. Expressed in terms of the Rossby number and the Richardson number, stability criteria, unstable regions in the complexc plane, and the upper bound of the unstable wave growth rate are found. Some differences in the results are noted between the present model and the quasi-geostrophic streamfunction model, particularly in connection with the effect of the velocity profile curvature termU zz . It is conjectured in the present model that, depending on extreme behaviors ofU zz , the propagation speed of unstable waves can be greater thanU max or smaller thanU min .  相似文献   

10.
王爱军  叶翔  陈坚 《海洋学报》2009,31(6):77-86
通过对"凤凰"台风的现场观测和沉积物样品的分析,结果表明,在台风影响下潮水淹没时间增长,增水达1.1 m;台风期间互花米草盐沼内流速变化较复杂,而且盐沼内部流速大于盐沼边缘的;台风期间盐沼边缘潮周期平均悬沙含量是台风前2 d的7倍;台风期间十分之一波高最大为1.54 m。滩面重复测量结果显示,台风登陆期间整个光滩滩面都发生了侵蚀,盐沼内部有部分地区发生侵蚀,侵蚀深度为4.5~5.5 cm,盐沼边缘的侵蚀深度仅为0.7 cm,侵蚀原因主要是植被在风浪作用下从根部折断,从而带走了滩面的沉积物;随着台风强度的减弱,整个滩面均接受悬沙沉降;台风带来的强降雨是影响滩面沉积物活动的重要因素。  相似文献   

11.
Ocean surface mixing and drift are influenced by the mixed layer depth, buoyancy fluxes and currents below the mixed layer. Drift and mixing are also functions of the surface Stokes drift Uss, volume Stokes transport TS, a wave breaking height scale Hswg, and the flux of energy from waves to ocean turbulence Φoc. Here we describe a global database of these parameters, estimated from a well-validated numerical wave model, that uses traditional forms of the wave generation and dissipation parameterizations, and covers the years 2003–2007. Compared to previous studies, the present work has the advantage of being consistent with the known physical processes that regulate the wave field and the air–sea fluxes, and also consistent with a very large number of in situ and satellite observations of wave parameters. Consequently, some of our estimates differ significantly from previous estimates. In particular, we find that the mean global integral of Φoc is 68 TW, and the yearly mean value of TS is typically 10–30% of the Ekman transport, except in well-defined regions where it can reach 60%. We also have refined our previous estimates of Uss by using a better treatment of the high frequency part of the wave spectrum. In the open ocean, Uss  0.013U10, where U10 is the wind speed at 10 m height.  相似文献   

12.
为研究潮汐作用下潮滩干湿转换过程中的潮沟系统形成和地貌发育,使用黄河三角洲潮滩天然粉砂建立试验室物理模型,并首次将Argus系统引入试验,用于监测现场,模拟在一定坡度下潮滩干湿转换过程的地表变化,分析了天然粉砂孔隙内潴留空气对潮滩地形起伏的动力机制,研究了不均匀流对地貌发育的影响。研究表明,整平均匀、坡度均一的干潮滩,在正向潮流、潮汐作用下,粉砂孔隙内潴留空气排出滞后于潮流淹没,承压后沿水平和垂直方向随机运移,导致平坦的潮滩表面形成细微的地形起伏。这种初始起伏会进一步影响潮流运动和潮滩冲淤,从而形成各种潮滩地貌形态,并决定着潮滩地貌空间分布。高潮滩形成高密度和连通复杂的不规则潮沟-碗口状塌陷系统;中潮滩和低潮滩较为平坦,在微小陡坎和碗口状塌陷上方发育有沿岸线平行方向排列分布的树枝状细密潮沟,且有明显的溯源侵蚀现象。受不均匀水流影响,中心轴附近潮滩率先淹没,孔隙内潴留空气排赶到两侧,导致潮滩中间地表较为平坦,两侧地表变化大,且沙波偏移以中部为对称轴,两侧对称。  相似文献   

13.
The bed roughness ks and current velocity profiles in the presence of waves with an arbitrary angle θ to currents are studied. It is found that the movable bed roughness is affected by both the wave and the current and only slightly by the angle θ between the wave propagation and the current, and that existing formulae derived in purely oscillatory flows generally fail to predict ks. In the present study, a new formula which takes account the effect of the wave and the current on the bed roughness is suggested to calculate ks in combined wave-current flows. With the present formula, the current profiles calculated by the model of You agree satisfactorily with the laboratory data of van Kampen and Nap and Havinga, and the field measurements of Grant and Williams and Drake et al.  相似文献   

14.
Various wind velocitiesu *,U /2,U andU 10 are correlated to the measured growth rate of water waves , whereu * is the friction velocity of the wind, andU /2,U andU 10 are the wind speeds respectively at the heights /2, and 10m above sea surface (: wave length). It is shown that within a range of the dimensionless wind speed, 0.1<u * /C<0.6, there are no appreciable differences in the correlations, whereC is the phase velocity of water waves. The present relation between andU shows qualitatively similar properties as the one obtained by Al'Zanaidi and Hui (1984); the growth rate for waves with rough surface is larger than that with smooth surface. However, our present relations give, for the both waves with different surface roughness, larger values by factors 1.71.8 than those given by Al'Zanaidi and Hui's relation.  相似文献   

15.
The intertidal zone of the Zhujiang River mouth tidal flat is about 570,000 mu in total, and the tidal flat of the subtidal zone (shallower than -2 m of the Huanghai Sea base level) is 560,000 mu. The two types, silty mud and argillaceous silt, are predominant in the tidal flat area, which can be divided into five types in terms of origin: 1) river mouth sand spit-subaqueous natural levee type; 2) river mouth bar type; 3) bay head type; 4) around the island type; and 5) marginal flat type. The tidal flat of the Zhujiang River mouth belongs to the depositional type and is constantly accumulating silt while extending, with an average land formation of 8,940 mu/yr in 97 years (1883-1980).  相似文献   

16.
In the Boussinesq approximation, we study baroclinic topographic waves trapped by the flat meridional slope. The existence of these waves is explained by stratification, inclined bottom, and Earth's rotation. We deduce the evolutionary equation for the square of the envelope of a narrow-band wave packet of trapped waves. In the second order of smallness relative to the wave amplitude, we find the mean fields of velocity and density induced by the packet. It is shown that, in the limiting case of weakly nonlinear plane waves, the induced current is zonal. In the Northern hemisphere, depending on the slope of the bottom γ1, the sign of the phase velocity σ/k (k is the zonal wave number) is either always positive (for γ1>γ1cr) or always negative (for γ1<γ1cr). If we neglect the vertical component of the Coriolis acceleration, then γ1cr=0. Translated by Peter V. Malyshev and Dmitry V. Malyshev  相似文献   

17.
During the spring-neap period of 17–24 August 2004, turbidity, horizontal and vertical current velocities and echo intensity were measured using OBS-3A and ADP-XR instruments over an intertidal flat within the semi-enclosed Jiaozhou Bay, China, to examine patterns in suspended sediment concentration (SSC) and possible control factors. SSC was found to be lower than 30 mg l−1 in most of the water column and for most of the tidal cycle. This is attributed mainly to the low hydrodynamic energy, in particular weak currents (near-bottom maximum 1- and 8-min-interval velocities were only 26.1 and 14.2 cm s−1, respectively), and limited fine-grained sediment supply by rivers. However, high SSC values ranging from 100 to >1,000 mg l−1 occurred over short periods at the beginning and the end of inundation. This phenomenon is attributed to the shoaling effect of frequent wind-generated waves, as a result of which near-bottom SSC fluctuations display a U-shaped trend during each tidal cycle.  相似文献   

18.
Depending on the choice of reference wind speed, the quantitative and qualitative properties of the drag coefficient may vary. On the ocean surface, surface waves are the physical roughness at the air-sea interface, and they play an important role in controlling the air-sea exchange processes. The degree of dynamic influence of surface waves scales with wavelength. Drag coefficient computed with the reference wind speed at an elevation proportional to the wavelength (for example, U λ/2) is fundamentally different from the drag coefficient computed with the wind speed at fixed 10 m elevation (U 10). A comparison has been carried out to quantify the difference in wind stress computation using several different parameterization functions of the drag coefficient. The result indicates that the wind stress computed from U 10 input using a drag coefficient referenced to U λ/2 is more accurate than that computed with drag coefficient functions referenced to U 10.  相似文献   

19.
The wave friction factor is commonly expressed as a function of the horizontal water particle semi-excursion (A wb) at the top of the boundary layer. A wb, in turn, is normally derived from linear wave theory by \fracU\textwbT\textw2p \frac{{{U_{\text{wb}}}{T_{\text{w}}}}}{{2\pi }} , where U wb is the maximum water particle velocity measured at the top of the boundary layer and T w is the wave period. However, it is shown here that A wb determined in this way deviates drastically from its real value under both linear and non-linear waves. Three equations for smooth, transitional and rough boundary conditions, respectively, are proposed to solve this problem, all three being a function of U wb, T w, and δ, the thickness of the boundary layer. Because these variables can be determined theoretically for any bottom slope and water depth using the deepwater wave conditions, there is no need to physically measure them. Although differing substantially from many modern attempts to define the wave friction factor, the results coincide with equations proposed in the 1960s for either smooth or rough boundary conditions. The findings also confirm that the long-held notion of circular water particle motion down to the bottom in deepwater conditions is erroneous, the motion in fact being circular at the surface and elliptical at depth in both deep and shallow water conditions, with only horizontal motion at the top of the boundary layer. The new equations are incorporated in an updated version (WAVECALC II) of the Excel program published earlier in this journal by Le Roux et al. Geo-Mar Lett 30(5): 549–560, (2010).  相似文献   

20.
观测红树林潮滩在波浪和潮流作用下的近底层垂向剖面悬沙浓度变化过程, 对理解海岸带植被的消能促淤机制和滨海湿地生态修复工程有着重要作用。本文以北部湾七星岛岛尾桐花树红树林潮滩为例, 基于剖面流速仪HR、声学多普勒单点流速仪ADV、浪潮仪T-wave及剖面浊度仪ASM, 获取了研究区域2019年夏季大潮连续3天的水文数据, 同时结合桐花树典型植株实测参数, 分析了潮周期内红树林潮滩近底层垂向剖面悬沙响应波浪、潮流作用及桐花树空间结构的运动过程。结果表明: 1) 桐花树潮滩近底层悬沙浓度和悬沙通量具有涨潮明显大于落潮的潮汐不对称现象, 剖面垂向高悬沙浓度区域在涨潮初期—涨急由距底部0.1~0.37m转变为距底部0.5~0.67m, 落急—落潮末期则由上部转变为下部; 2) 潮周期内悬沙起动和再悬浮阶段发生在以波浪作用主导的涨潮初期和落潮末期, 平流和沉降发生在以潮流作用为主的涨急至落急整个阶段; 3) 涨潮阶段桐花树冠层的茂密枝叶通过减缓流速拦截多于冠层上部40%以上的悬沙, 落潮水体则挟沙自陆向海经过桐花树群落, 使得悬沙浓度下降超过71%。该不对称涨、落潮动力沉积机制有利于悬沙向岸输运, 促进潮滩扩张过程。  相似文献   

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