首页 | 本学科首页   官方微博 | 高级检索  
相似文献
 共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 31 毫秒
1.
In conventional marine seismic exploration data processing, the sea surface is usually treated as a horizontal free boundary. However, the sea surface is affected by wind and waves and there often exists dynamic small-range fluctuations. These dynamic fluctuations will change the energy propagation path and affect the final imaging results. In theoretical research, different sea surface conditions need to be described, so it is necessary to study the modeling method of dynamic undulating sea surface. Starting from the commonly used sea surface mathematical simulation methods, this paper mainly studies the realization process of simple harmonic wave and Gerstner wave sea surface simulation methods based on ocean wave spectrum, and compares their advantages and disadvantages. Aiming at the shortcomings of the simple harmonic method and Gerstner method in calculational speed and sea surface simulation effect, a method based on wave equation and using dynamic boundary conditions for sea surface simulation is proposed. The calculational speed of this method is much faster than the commonly used simple harmonic method and Gerstner wave method. In addition, this paper also compares the new method with the more commonly used higher-order spectral methods to show the characteristics of the improved wave equation method.  相似文献   

2.
To plan for proper mitigation measures, one should have an advanced knowledge of the phenomenon of tsunami propagation from the deep ocean to coastal waters. There are a few methods to predict tsunamis in the ocean waters; one method is the effective use of data buoy measurements. Although data buoys have been used along the Indian waters there has been a tremendous growth in the number of buoy deployment recently. Under the National Data Buoy Programme (NDBP) of India, the 2.2 m diameter discus data buoys were deployed along the east and west coasts of India for measuring meteorological and ocean parameters. It would be advantageous if these buoys could be efficiently used to measure rare events such as tsunamis. Understanding the dynamic behavior of the buoy is of prime importance if a tsunami warning system is to be successful. This may be accomplished through experimental or numerical studies. A comprehensive experimental study has been conducted to understand the dynamic behavior of a wave rider buoy exposed to a variety of waves. It is common that tsunami waves are represented in terms of shallow water waves, namely solitary and cnoidal waves. Hence, in the present study, the discus type data buoy is scale modeled and tested under the action of solitary and cnoidal waves in the laboratory. The time histories of wave elevations, as well as heave and pitch motions of the buoy model, were analyzed through a spectral approach as well as through wavelet transformations. The wavelet approach gives more detailed insight into the spectral characteristics of the buoy motion in the time scale. The harmonic analyses were performed for the cnoidal wave elevations and subsequent motion characteristics that give an insight into the energy variations. The details of the model, instrumentation, testing conditions and the results are presented in this paper.  相似文献   

3.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,38(2):91-113
The present study aims at investigating the non-linear triad interaction process affecting shoaling surface gravity wave fields. The triad interaction phenomenon being enhanced towards the shore, the domain of study is extended up to the surf zone. Three 1D non-linear wave models (one phase-resolving and two phase-averaged spectral models) have been implemented and compared to laboratory experiments performed in a wave flume. This set of models includes two existing models and a new one which has been developed in the frame of this work. The models include a breaking dissipation term based on the parametrical model of Battjes and Janssen [Battjes, J.A., Janssen, P.A.E.M., 1978. Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves. Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng. (ASCE), Vol. 1, pp. 569–587.]. The investigations concern the evolution of variance spectra, spectral significant wave height and mean period over a barred bathymetric profile. In addition, the performances of the different models are analysed by computing the spectral source term for triad interactions. We found that all models are able to reproduce the main features of non-linear mechanisms affecting a wave field in the near-shore zone. The phase-resolving model gives the most accurate results for non-breaking situations. It correctly reproduces the non-linear coupling effect in decreasing water depths due to wave–wave interactions, as well as the harmonic release after a bar. However, the model is computationally time-consuming. The CPU time is considerably reduced using phase-averaged models. They give satisfactorily results on harmonic generation. However, they do not reproduce the release of harmonics as water depth increases. In breaking conditions, the variance spectra undergo significant changes under the combined effects of non-linear energy transfers and dissipation. The depth-induced wave breaking model included in the equations provides a good estimate of the energy decay in the surf zone.  相似文献   

4.
On the basis of the wave action balance equation which incorporates refraction, diffraction, reflection and wave-current interaction, a directional spectral wave transformation model WABED is developed for predicting the irregular wave refraction-diffraction with strongly reflecting structures in coastal regions. In the model, diffraction is taken into account by introducing a term formulated from a parabolic approximation wave equation, and reflection is calculated through a back-marching numerical approach at the reflecting boundary. Two experimental data sets are used to examine the performance of present model with regard to wave characteristics around reflecting coastal structures. One is from a physical experiment at idealized inlet with parallel jetties, while the other is from a laboratory study on a coastal project of the concave breakwater. Reasonably good agreements are found for both cases, revealing the applicability of the present model for predicting combined wave refraction-diffraction processes with strongly reflecting coastal structures.  相似文献   

5.
This paper describes methods and results of research for incorporating four different parameterized wave breaking and dissipation formulas in a coastal wave prediction model. Two formulations assume the breaking energy dissipation to be limited by the Rayleigh distribution, whereas the other two represent the breaking wave energy by a bore model. These four formulations have been implemented in WABED, a directional spectral wave model based on the wave action balance equation with diffraction, reflection, and wave–current interaction capabilities. Four parameterized wave breaking formulations are evaluated in the present study using two high-quality laboratory data sets. The first data set is from a wave transformation experiment at an idealized inlet entrance, representing four incident irregular waves in a slack tide and two steady-state ebb current conditions. The second data set is from a laboratory study of wave propagation over a complex bathymetry with strong wave-induced currents. Numerical simulation results show that with a proper breaking formulation the wave model can reproduce laboratory data for waves propagating over idealized or complicated bathymetries with ambient currents. The extended Goda wave breaking formulation with a truncated Rayleigh distribution, and the Battjes and Janssen formulation with a bore model produced the best agreement between model and data.  相似文献   

6.
Hartley变换是一种基于谐函数的实变换,具有Fourier变换的特性,在海洋工程中使用Fourier变换的大部分应用都可以通过Hartley变换实现,并且快速Hartley变换的计算效率是快速Fourier变换的2倍,并易于实现,所以Hartley变换可以在许多应用中代替Fourier变换。详细介绍了Hartley变换在海洋工程领域的应用,包括:波谱分析、波浪分离、PIV(粒子图像测速法)技术和微分方程的Hartley域变换,举例说明了Hartley变换在节约计算空间和提高计算效率上具备的优越性。  相似文献   

7.
Two numerical formulations of the breaking phenomenon were implemented in a numerical model for random wave propagation based on the elliptic formulation of the mild-slope equation. The randomness of the wave field was simulated based on a spectral component method, in which the 3-D spectrum is discretised in components of equal energy. One of the breaking process formulations is based on the concept of breaking each independent spectral component. The other is based on the distribution of the local amount of energy dissipated through the independent spectral components. The model based on the concept of breaking each independent spectral component produces the best estimates of the wave field, when the numerical results are compared with laboratory data.  相似文献   

8.
The application of Hartley transform to ocean engineering   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
The Hartley transform is a real integral transform based on harmonic functions and hassome characteristics similar to the Fourier transform. Most applications in ocean engineering requiring the Fourier transform can also be performed by the Hartley transform. The fast Hartley transform is twice faster and more convenient to handle than the corresponding fast Fourier transform, so it is a real valued alternative to the complex Fourier transform in many applications. The use of the Hartley transform in ocean engineering is presented in detail in this paper, including wave spectral analysis, separation of waves, cross-correlation in PIV technique and expression of equation in the Hartley domain. The examples in the paper show deeply the advantage and efficiency of the Hartley transform over the Fourier transform.  相似文献   

9.
In this work, transient resonant motions excited in linearised scattering interactions are approximated using a simple damped harmonic oscillator model. The scattering interactions considered involve the diffraction of an incident wave-train with a dominant regular time-harmonic component by structures which enclose a portion of the free surface. Provided a single resonant mode only is excited significantly, the fluid oscillation in the vicinity of the structure will primarily be composed of the resonant mode and incident wave mode contributions. The forced damped harmonic oscillator equation is used to predict the fluid motion and, in particular, the elevation of the internal free surface. The predictions are compared to the results from a numerical time-domain solver based on the linearised water-wave equations. It is shown that, given a good estimate of the location of the resonance in the complex frequency plane and a priori knowledge of the form of the incident wave, the model can successfully predict the time-dependent behaviour of the motion. Both two- and three-dimensional scattering problems are considered with a variety of scatterers in each case.  相似文献   

10.
Conventional spectral wave models, which are used to determine wave conditions in coastal regions, can account for all relevant processes of generation, dissipation and propagation, except diffraction. To accommodate diffraction in such models, a phase-decoupled refraction–diffraction approximation is suggested. It is expressed in terms of the directional turning rate of the individual wave components in the two-dimensional wave spectrum. The approximation is based on the mild-slope equation for refraction–diffraction, omitting phase information. It does therefore not permit coherent wave fields in the computational domain (harbours with standing-wave patterns are excluded). The third-generation wave model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) was used for the numerical implementation based on a straightforward finite-difference scheme. Computational results in extreme diffraction-prone cases agree reasonably well with observations, analytical solutions and solutions of conventional refraction–diffraction models. It is shown that the agreement would improve further if singularities in the wave field (e.g., at the tips of breakwaters) could be properly accounted for. The implementation of this phase-decoupled refraction–diffraction approximation in SWAN shows that diffraction of random, short-crested waves, based on the mild-slope equation can be combined with the processes of refraction, shoaling, generation, dissipation and wave–wave interactions in spectral wave models.  相似文献   

11.
The theoretical background of the wave-current interactions, including the transformation of the wave spectrum and breaking waves due to currents, are first presented in this work. In the next part of the work, experimental data resulted from studies performed in an offshore wave basin of the Danish Hydraulic Institute concerning the wave-current interactions were presented in parallel with some wave model simulations performed in similar conditions. SWAN, which is presently the state-of-the-art spectral model for the wave transformations, was adopted for performing numerical simulations. In general, a good agreement was encountered between the experimental data and the simulation results.  相似文献   

12.
A model is described for hindcasting or forecasting waves in finite‐depth waters. The model is particularly applicable to coastal sites where the water is depth‐limited. The wave energy density spectrum is modelled in the frequency‐directional domain. For each spectral component a ray is defined along which wave energy propagates to reach the site. For sites exposed to the open ocean a background spectral wave model is required to provide input to the ray endpoints. Further growth and dissipation is then effected along the rays according to the local wind and water depth. The model was used to hindcast wave spectra over a period of 9 months for a site in the Canterbury Bight, New Zealand. The results were compared with measurements from a Waveridcr buoy at the site. The model succeeds in explaining about 40% of the variance in measured significant wave heights. However, the present application is handicapped by errors inherent in the background spectral model and in specifying the local wind.  相似文献   

13.
便携式高频地波雷达台湾海峡浪高观测   总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1  
As an important equipment for sea state remote sensing, high frequency surface wave radar(HFSWR) has received more and more attention. The conventional method for wave height inversion is based on the ratio of the integration of the second-order spectral continuum to that of the first-order region, where the strong external noise and the incorrect delineation of the first- and second-order Doppler spectral regions due to spectral aliasing are two major sources of errors in the wave height. To account for these factors, two more indices are introduced to the wave height estimation, i.e., the ratio of the maximum power of the second-order continuum to that of the Bragg spectral region(RSCB) and the ratio of the power of the second harmonic peak to that of the Bragg peak(RSHB). Both indices also have a strong correlation with the underlying wave height. On the basis of all these indices an empirical model is proposed to estimate the wave height. This method has been used in a three-months long experiment of the ocean state measuring and analyzing radar, type S(OSMAR-S), which is a portable HFSWR with compact cross-loop/monopole receive antennas developed by Wuhan University since 2006. During the experiment in the Taiwan Strait, the significant wave height varied from 0 to 5 m. The significant wave heights estimated by the OSMAR-S correlate well with the data provided by the Oceanweather Inc. for comparison, with a correlation coefficient of 0.74 and a root mean square error(RMSE) of 0.77 m. The proposed method has made an effective improvement to the wave height estimation and thus a further step toward operational use of the OSMAR-S in the wave height extraction.  相似文献   

14.
Second-order features in HF radar Doppler spectral data are compared with a theoretical model of the radar spectrum. The model is the corner reflector double-scatter model which employs a more realistic directional sea spectrum model than those used in earlier works. It includes a frequency-dependent angular spreading function and assumes the existence of spectral energy over a full360degarising from an apparent second-order wave-wave interaction. Comparison is made with ground wave data collected at the NRL/NOAA/ITS San Clemente Island HF radar.  相似文献   

15.
Experiments were conducted in a wave flume to study the differences between harmonic evolution of monochromatic waves as they propagate over a submerged impermeable or porous step under non-breaking conditions. Results are used as a preliminary analysis to establish some engineering design criteria on harmonic generation on submerged porous structures. The root-mean-squared wave height evolution is also studied and compared to linear models as a first approximation. It is shown that porous structure increases the effective relative depth and decreases the relative wave height, resulting in a lower Ursell number and a lower chance to generate harmonics. The effective water depth over a step as defined in the paper, provides information to evaluate the potential harmonic generation.  相似文献   

16.
X-波段雷达近海海浪频谱反演的神经网络模型   总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1  
X-波段雷达作为国内海浪观测的一种新工具,在海浪频谱获取和有效波高反演方面仍存在较多问题.本文利用非线性回归方法,将现场实测浮标数据频谱和雷达一维图像谱分别与标准频谱模型进行拟合,发现浮标频谱和一维图像谱具有标准频谱的特征,能够较准确地获取相应的谱参数.提出了建立由雷达一维图像谱参数反演海浪频谱参数的神经网络模型,同时在模型中加入影像序列信噪比,进而反演有效波高,并将反演结果与现场实测数据和传统算法(建立影像序列信噪比与有效波高之间的线性回归方程)进行了对比,结果表明,获取谱参数的误差和反演有效波高的平均误差在20％以内,而传统算法计算有效波高平均误差在20％以上.  相似文献   

17.
A higher-order non-hydrostatic σ model is developed to simulate non-linear refraction–diffraction of water waves. To capture non-linear (or steep) waves, a 4th-order spatial discretization is utilized to approximate the large horizontal pressure gradient. A higher-order top-layer pressure treatment is further implemented to resolve wave propagation. The model's characteristics including linear wave dispersion and non-linearity are carefully examined. The accuracy of the present model using only two vertical layers is validated by laboratory data and the available results predicted by the non-linear Schrödinger equation, Boussinesq-type equations, the non-linear mild slope equation, and the Laplace equation. Features of harmonic generation as well as the influences of dispersion and non-linearity on wave energy transfer processes are discussed.  相似文献   

18.
A numerical wave tank is established based on two-phase FVM model and VOF method and verified with the physical experiment in Grue et al. (1994). Focusing waves with different wave steepness passing a vertical cylinder are investigated by Numerical simulations. The phenomenon called ‘secondary load cycle’ which may lead to ringing response, is observed and discussed. The presence of secondary load cycle could be related to Froude Number (Fr). The possible transition region of the present and absent secondary load cycle is Fr = 0.4. Sub and super harmonic wave components appear in the propagation of waves, second-order wave theory could give a good prediction. Morison equation with linear wave theory could predict well the wave forces of vertical cylinder with small steepness without the secondary load cycle, but cannot capture the crests/troughs of the wave forces with the secondary load cycle. Crest improvements are achieved by second-order wave theory. A spectral analysis based on wavelet transform is applied to wave loads. The frequency of the secondary load may be up to 13 times the wave frequency, which may cause the ringing response expanding to a higher frequency range. Strong ringing response occurs in steep wave, it could be extended up to 15 times wave trough-to-trough frequency due to the secondary load cycle. The damping has slightly influence on the peak of resonance response, but it will lead to faster decay of subsequent response, if the damping ratio is large.  相似文献   

19.
Although Morison equation is often applied for simulating hydrodynamic force of marine structure, it may give poor results when non-linear behavior is severe or random wave is encountered. This leads to some modifications of Morison equation or other methods for predicting hydrodynamic force. One of them is the system identification technique. In this paper, NARMAX model theory is firstly used to identify the hydrodynamic system of heave damping plates, which are commonly installed on spar platform. Both linear and non-linear models are obtained. The comparisons between the predieted results and measured data indicate that NARMAX model can predict hydrodynamic force of a heave damping plate very well. The measured data for identification originate from forced oscillation tests, which are random records with given spectrum. The forced oscillation forms in experiment also contain simple harmonic, multi-frequency ones.  相似文献   

20.
The wave-wave kinetic equation for surface gravity waves occurring in a deep sea and a sea of finite depth is solved numerically, using the Runge-Kutta technique. Spectral evolution was the result only of the waves’ being non-linear, without any contribution from wave generation and dissipation. The JONSWAP frequency spectra and the angular spectra of various widths were used to perform calculations. The existence of a steady angular wave spectrum, following its long evolution in a deep sea, has been confirmed here. For the sea of finite depth, a new result has been obtained. It exhibits the ‘focusing’ of the frequential and the angular spectra when the wavelength of a harmonic from the spectral maximum equals 2π, of the depth of the sea. With the depth further decreasing, the wave spectrum swiftly expands. The three-dimensional wave field in a deep sea becomes two-dimensional in the shallows. Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.  相似文献   

设为首页 | 免责声明 | 关于勤云 | 加入收藏

Copyright©北京勤云科技发展有限公司  京ICP备09084417号