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1.
海南岛南渡江三角洲北部沿岸的泥沙转运和岸滩运动   总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3  
李春初  田明 《热带海洋》1997,16(4):26-33
南渡江三角洲海岸可分为东部废弃侵蚀岸,北部泥沙转运岸西部淤涨堆积岸等三个岸段,北部岸段为了边接东、西部岸段,存在大规模的,有节奏的沿岸泥沙向西和向岸转运及其相应的岸滩运动现象,涨沙主要来自南渡江干流河口及其以东的废弃侵蚀岸。文中还结合对北部岸河口和沿岸泥沙转运规律的分析,讨论了波浪优势型河口三角洲特征及其堡岛海岸的形态、动态和泥沙来源以及人类活动对该岸段的影响等问题。  相似文献   

2.
南渡江三角洲海岸可分为东部废弃侵蚀岸、北部泥沙转运岸和西部淤涨堆积岸等三个岸段。北部岸段为了连接东、西部岸段,存在大规模的、有节奏的沿岸泥沙向西和向岸转运及其相应的岸滩运动现象,泥沙主要来自南渡江干流河口及其以东的废弃侵蚀岸。文中还结合对北部岸段河口和沿岸泥沙转运现律的分析,讨论了波浪优势型河口三角洲特征及其堡岛海岸的形态、动态和泥沙来源以及人类活动对该岸段的影响等问题。  相似文献   

3.
南渡江三角洲海岸泥沙纵向运移与岸滩演变的响应   总被引:7,自引:0,他引:7  
南渡三角洲沿岸在盛行NNE向波浪等动力条件的作用下,泥沙产生纵向运移,岸滩遭受侵蚀或堆积,岸滩演变剧烈。本文利用基于网格的波注折射绕射模型,分析南渡江三角洲海岸波浪动力过程、破波带波能与辐射应力分布及其引起的沿岸泥沙纵向运称。浴海岸动力学地貌的角度,通过三角洲沿岸波浪动力特征、泥沙运动的分析,探讨沙质岸滩的动态与地貌演变。  相似文献   

4.
琼州海峡南岸海岸动力地貌研究   总被引:6,自引:0,他引:6  
陈沈良 《热带海洋》1998,17(3):34-42
岬湾相间的琼州海峡南岸在海岸动力条件作用下,岸滩发生侵蚀或堆积,特别是南岸中部的南渡江三角洲沿岸岸滩演变剧烈。该文从海岸动力地貌的角度,对琼州海峡南岸的海岸动力特征、泥沙运动以及岸滩演变进行分析。根据海峡南部三维潮流场数值模拟结果,结合经验公式初步分析潮流引起的泥沙运移速率和方向,得到岸外水域总的泥沙运移趋势为从西向东。根据波浪动力计算分析沿岸泥沙运移,探讨沙质岸滩的地貌演变之间的关系,得出海峡南  相似文献   

5.
海南岛北部塑造海岸地貌的主要动力因素是波浪和近岸流系。沿岸沙嘴延伸的方向指示着这两大因素作用下泥沙运动的方向。此外,河流输沙对局部海岸的塑造起至关重要的作用,如南渡江三角洲的增长和现在的逐步后退,均与南渡江输沙的多少密切相关。本章主要就海口湾和洋浦湾的风、浪、流及泥沙运动等方面作简要阐述。  相似文献   

6.
海南岛南渡江三角洲的废弃与侵蚀   总被引:9,自引:1,他引:8  
讨论了海南岛南渡江三角洲由发展到废弃的演化过程,分析了不同废弃阶段的河口平面形态由东向西变化等特征,对比活动三角洲与废弃三角洲的显着地貌差异.此外还讨论了活动三角洲前缘潮流在岸外较深水区的侵蚀作用和泥沙的向东搬运,以及波浪在近岸较浅水区的侵蚀作用和泥沙的向西和向岸的搬运.  相似文献   

7.
岬湾相间的琼州海峡南岸在海岸动力条件作用下,岸滩发生侵蚀或堆积,特别是南岸中部的南渡江三角洲沿岸岸滩演变剧烈。该文从海岸动力地貌的角度,对琼州海峡南岸的海岸动力特征、泥沙运动以及岸滩演变进行分析。根据海峡南部三维潮流场数值模拟结果,结合经验公式初步分析潮流引起的泥沙运移速率和方向,得到岸外水域总的泥沙运移趋势为从西向东。根据波浪动力计算分析沿岸泥沙运移,探讨沙质岸滩的动态与地貌演变之间的关系,得出海峡南岸海岸地貌演变与盛行的NE和NNE向风浪有密切关系,岸滩的演变过程主要受制于这两个方向的风浪及其引起的泥沙沿岸运移。  相似文献   

8.
波浪在黄河三角洲形成中的作用   总被引:14,自引:3,他引:14  
本文应用1987年在黄河海港心北7m水深处理观测的9个月波浪资料进行统计研究,以揭示波浪在三角洲形成中的作用研究表明:(1)波浪对下三角洲海底泥沙的再悬浮力是比较大的,一年中有约有144天时间,波浪使12.5m水深以内泥沙启动,5m以内的泥沙发生位移。(2)波浪作用的沿岸相对输沙力,北岸向西,东岸向南,输沙力北岸大于东岸,且随着三角洲的前积淤进,这种差异在逐渐增大。(3)该区强浪的向为NE,次经浪  相似文献   

9.
南渡江三角洲北岸的海岸演变及其机制分析   总被引:7,自引:2,他引:5  
龚文平  王宝灿 《海洋学报》1998,20(3):140-148
南渡江三角洲位处琼州海峡南岸中部,自冰后期海侵以来,南渡江河口位置不断向海凸出,三角洲经历了由河流作用为主到波浪作用为主、从东部到西部演变的过程,目前三角洲东部废弃,西部向海口湾东部淤进[1].现今南渡江在新埠村南开始分汉,分流河道有干流、横沟河和海甸溪,分流河道间的沙洲分别为新埠岛和海甸岛(见图1).  相似文献   

10.
本文根据大亚湾大鹏澳菱角石沿岸的波浪、潮流和泥沙资料,探讨了菱角石沿岸泥沙来源、泥沙活动水深和破波带,估算了破波带沿岸输沙率和非破波带底沙单宽输沙率,说明了沿岸泥沙运移以破波带沿岸输沙为主,验证了赵子丹提出的估算沿岸输沙率的关系曲线的可靠性。  相似文献   

11.
Wave overtopping nearshore coastal structures, such as shore-parallel breakwaters, can significantly alter the current circulation and sediment transport patterns around the structures, which in turn affects the formation of tombolos and salients in the nearshore area. This paper describes the implementation of a wave overtopping module into an existing depth-averaged coastal morphological mode: COAST2D and model applications to investigate the effect of wave overtopping on the hydrodynamics and morphodynamics around a group of shore-parallel breakwaters. The hydrodynamic aspects of the model were validated against a series of laboratory conditions. The model was then applied to a study site at Sea Palling, Norfolk, UK, where 9 shore-parallel segmented breakwaters including 4 surface-piercing and 5 low-crested breakwaters are present, for the storm conditions in Nov 2006. The model results were compared with laboratory data and field measurements, showing a good agreement on both hydrodynamics and morphological changes. Further analysis of wave overtopping effect on the nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics reveals that wave overtopping has significant impacts on the nearshore circulation, sediment transport and the resulting morphological changes within such a complex breakwater scheme under the storm and macro-tide conditions. The results indicate the importance of including the wave overtopping in modelling nearshore morphodynamics with the presence of coastal structures.  相似文献   

12.
近岸波、流作用下结构物附近海岸演变的数值模拟   总被引:5,自引:0,他引:5  
张海文  陶建华 《海洋学报》2000,22(1):117-124
针对与砂质海岸在波浪作用下的演变有关的波浪、近岸流及输沙问题进行了系统的研究,并对结构物附近海岸演变进行了数值模拟。考虑了波浪折射-绕射及波浪破碎的综合作用,在近岸流场的模拟中用沿水深积分形成的K方程模型确定涡粘系数。计算岸滩地形变化时,综合波浪、近岸流作用的底沙和悬沙输沙率,并考虑波浪对泥沙作用的影响。模型对防波堤和近岸沉船附近地形变化进行了模拟,效果良好。  相似文献   

13.
I~crIOWIn the coastal area, especially at the sandy seashore, wave and nearshore current are the major factors which affect sediment transPOrt and the motyhChdynamics.The numerical models of predicting the beach evolution can be classified intO the medi~term and long-term models according to their space and time scales (De Briend et al., 1993;Watanabe, 1990; Watanabe et al., 1986; Tao, 1996). In the medium-term model the effects ofwave, nearshore current and sediment transport are conside…  相似文献   

14.
The existing numerical models for nearshore waves are briefly introduced, and the third-generation numerical model for shallow water wave, which makes use of the most advanced productions of wave research and has been adapted well to be used in the environment of seacoast, lake and estuary area, is particularly discussed. The applied model realizes the significant wave height distribution at different wind directions. To integrate the model into the coastal area sediment, sudden deposition mechanism, the distribution of average silt content and the change of sediment sudden deposition thickness over time in the nearshore area are simulated. The academic productions can give some theoretical guidance to the applications of sediment sudden deposition mechanism for stormy waves in the coastal area. And the advancing directions of sediment sudden deposition model are prospected.  相似文献   

15.
C. D. Storlazzi  M. E. Field   《Marine Geology》2000,170(3-4):289-316
Field measurements of beach morphology and sedimentology were made along the Monterey Peninsula and Carmel Bay, California, in the spring and summer of 1997. These data were combined with low-altitude aerial imagery, high-resolution bathymetry, and local geology to understand how coastal geomorphology, lithology, and tectonics influence the distribution and transport of littoral sediment in the nearshore and inner shelf along a rocky shoreline over the course of decades. Three primary modes of sediment distribution in the nearshore and on the inner shelf off the Monterey Peninsula and in Carmel Bay were observed. Along stretches of the study area that were exposed to the dominant wave direction, sediment has accumulated in shore-normal bathymetric lows interpreted to be paleo-stream channels. Where the coastline is oriented parallel to the dominant wave direction and streams channels trend perpendicular to the coast, sediment-filled paleo-stream channels occur in the nearshore as well, but here they are connected to one another by shore-parallel ribbons of sediment at depths between 2 and 6 m. Where the coastline is oriented parallel to the dominant wave direction and onshore stream channels are not present, only shore-parallel patches of sediment at depths greater than 15 m are present. We interpret the distribution and interaction or transport of littoral sediment between pocket beaches along this coastline to be primarily controlled by the northwest-trending structure of the region and the dominant oceanographic regime. Because of the structural barriers to littoral transport, peaks in wave energy appear to be the dominant factor controlling the timing and magnitude of sediment transport between pocket beaches, more so than along long linear coasts. Accordingly, the magnitude and timing of sediment transport is dictated by the episodic nature of storm activity.  相似文献   

16.
在简要介绍现有近岸波浪数值模型的基础上,对应用了最新波浪研究成果、适用于海岸、湖泊和河口地区的第三代浅水波浪数值预报模型的研究和应用进行了详细论述。通过该模型数值计算得到黄程山局部区域不同风向的有效波高分布,将模型与海区泥沙骤淤机理相结合,进而得到整个区域平均含沙量的分布,并数值预报近岸区域骤淤量随时间的变化,研究成果可为海区大风浪情况下骤淤预报提供理论指导,本文最后讨论了泥沙骤淤计算模型未来发展的趋势。  相似文献   

17.
李松喆 《海洋工程》2021,39(4):144-153
基于历史海图、历史时期卫星遥感影像、2019年实测水下地形和潮流、波浪数值模拟成果,研究该海域岸滩的发育演变背景、海床和岸线自然冲淤动态、动力泥沙环境及岸滩冲淤动力机制。采用LITLINE岸线演变数学模型,模拟计算了不同离岸距离和不同平面形态人工岛布置型式对近岸岸线变形的影响,岸滩泥沙动力机制和岸滩演变趋势表明,人工岛实施后近岸最大潮流流速小于近岸泥沙起动流速,不具备起动近岸岸滩泥沙的基本条件; SSE向波浪作用时,人工岛西北侧波高明显减弱,波向西偏; S向波浪作用时,人工岛北侧波高明显减弱; SSW向波浪作用时,人工岛东北侧波高明显减弱,波浪传播方向东偏;波浪场改变后人工岛掩护区东西两侧岸滩附近泥沙分别具有向东和向西运移至人工岛掩护区的趋势,形成掩护区的淤积和东西两侧岸线冲刷。  相似文献   

18.
《Marine Geology》2003,193(3-4):171-176
Megaripples in the combined flow environment of the nearshore are proposed to behave like dunes or large ripples in rivers, tidal estuaries, and deserts. Their profile basically is symmetric and thus significantly different from the traditional asymmetric triangular features observed in steady flows. Similarly their planform often exhibits little directionality, unlike crescentic or lunate steady flow dunes that point in the downstream direction. These characteristics are the result of complex combined flows in the nearshore, including oscillatory flows, wave skewness, and steady currents (undertow, rips and alongshore flows). Recent observations of megaripples in the nearshore suggest that they occur frequently. However, they are rarely considered in studies of flow resistance or sediment transport. In addition, megaripples are thought to be the source of hummocky cross-stratification in sedimentary sequences and are generally attributed to storm waves on inner continental shelves. However, observations show that they also exist inside the surf zone and under lower-energy conditions. A better understanding of their dynamics and thus their occurrence and characteristics would improve the understanding of nearshore wave and circulation dynamics, sediment transport, large-scale morphodynamics, and the resulting sedimentary sequences. It is hypothesized that megaripples in the nearshore are dynamically similar to steady flow features, which are observed in rivers, estuaries and deserts and have been studied in much more detail.  相似文献   

19.
The newly developed nearshore circulation model, SHORECIRC, using a hybrid finite-difference finite-volume TVD-type scheme, is coupled with the wave model SWAN in the Nearshore Community Model (NearCoM) system. The new modeling system is named NearCoM-TVD and the purpose of this study is to report the capability and limitation of NearCoM-TVD for several coastal applications. For tidal inlet applications, the model is verified with the semi-analytical solution of Keulegan (1967) for an idealized inlet-bay system. To further evaluate the model performance in predicting nearshore circulation under intense wave–current interaction over complex bathymetry, modeled circulation patterns are validated with measured data during RCEX field experiment (MacMahan et al., 2010). For sediment transport applications, two sediment transport models are applied to predict three sandbar migration events at Duck, NC, during August to October 1994 (Gallagher et al., 1998). The model of Kobayashi et al. (2008) incorporates wave-induced onshore sediment transport rate as a function of the standard deviation of wave-induced horizontal velocities. The modeled beach profile evolution for two offshore events and one onshore event agrees well with the measured data. The second model investigated here combines two published sediment transport models, namely, the total load model driven by currents under the effect of wave stirring (Soulsby, 1997) and the wave-driven sediment transport model due to wave asymmetry/skewness (van Rijn et al., 2011). The model study with limited field data suggests that the parameterization of wave stirring is appropriate during energetic wave conditions. However, during low energy wave conditions, the effect of wave stirring needs to be re-calibrated.  相似文献   

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