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1.
OSMAR-S系列便携式高频地波雷达系统采用单极子/交叉环紧凑型天线阵,通过单站雷达即可实现有效探测距离约10km内海浪和海面风的单点观测。为了更好地了解OSMAR-S100雷达系统海浪和海面风的综合探测性能,于2013年1月29日至3月7日在台湾海峡西南部海域进行了雷达与浮标观测的对比试验,得到了有效波高、有效波周期、平均风速和平均风向数据。对比结果表明,OSMAR-S100便携式高频地波雷达可有效观测距雷达10km以内有效波高0.5m以上的海浪平均状况和平均风速5m/s以上的海面风,雷达反演有效波高和有效波周期的均方根误差分别为0.60m和1.60s,反演平均风速和平均风向的均方根误差为1.83m/s和16.7°。在未经区域化标定的情况下,此结果说明了该型雷达产品已初步具备了海浪和海面风的业务化观测水平。  相似文献   

2.
The effect of directionality on extreme wave design criteria   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
Philip Jonathan  Kevin Ewans   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(14-15):1977-1994
Sea state design criteria for offshore facilities are frequently provided by direction. For example, it is typical for return-period values of the significant wave height to be specified for each of eight 45° sectors in addition to the omni-directional case. However, it is important that these criteria be consistent so that the probability of exceedance of a given wave height from any direction derived from the directional values is the same as for the omni-directional value. As recently demonstrated by Forristall it is not sufficient simply to scale the directional values so that the value of the wave height from the most severe sector is the same as the omni-directional value.We develop an approach for establishing appropriate directional criteria and an associated omni-directional criterion for a specific location. The inherent directionality of sea states is used to develop a model for the directional dependence of distributions of storm maxima. The directional model is applied to the GOMOS data, and the distributional properties of the 100-year significant wave height are estimated and the implications for design discussed. An objective risk-cost approach is proposed for optimising directional criteria, while preserving overall reliability. Simulation studies are performed, using realistic extreme value assumptions, to quantify the uncertainties.  相似文献   

3.
Paul A. Work   《Ocean Engineering》2008,35(8-9):727-737
Directional energy spectra of nearshore surface waves were measured for a 3-year period (2004–2007) at a site with mean depth 14 m and mean tidal range 2.1 m. Triaxys surface-following wave buoys reported hourly directional wave energy spectra and wave parameters near the offshore end of the Savannah River Entrance Channel, Georgia, USA. An acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) was located beside the wave buoy for 3 months. Directional and non-directional surface wave energy spectra and the corresponding bulk wave parameters (height, period, and direction) are compared for the two systems. Most parameters derived from the spectra agree closely; the most significant differences were found at the upper and lower frequency measurement limits, where signal-to-noise ratios were lower. The wave buoy consistently reports a small amount of energy below 0.05 Hz that does not appear in the ADCP-derived spectra and does not appear to be related to the mooring system. This leads to larger mean and peak periods reported by the buoy. All directional spectra were computed using the Maximum Entropy Method for both instruments, but the buoy, with spectra derived from six independent time series, provides lower directional resolving power than the ADCP, which utilizes twelve time series. Both systems gave similar results defining mean and peak wave directions, with the primary difference being that the ADCP indicates energy to be more tightly concentrated around the peak direction.  相似文献   

4.
A two-year series of directional wave measurement off the Eastern Mediterranean coast of Israel reveals an abundance of high storm waves. Some of these waves have significant height in excess of 5 meters and periods as long as 15 sec.The evolution of the storm waves is described and related to the growth and paths of the storm fronts in Mid-Mediterranean. Shorter-period waves are found to always lead the arrival of longer-period swell. This characteristic is explained by a short decay distance and/or a high migration velocity of the storm front.The scatter plot of significant wave height vs period for the recorded events of each storm describes an open-loop time sequence. The difference in period between that of the peak height event and the period of a fully arisen sea of the same height is found to be indicative of the true decay distance the waves have travelled.  相似文献   

5.
Combined wave overtopping and storm surge overflow of a levee with a trapezoidal cross section was studied in a two-dimensional laboratory wave/flow flume at a nominal prototype-to-model length scale of 25-to-1. The goal of this study was to develop design guidance in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina. Time series of water depth at two locations on the levee crown and flow thickness at five locations on the landward-side slope were measured along with horizontal velocity near the landward edge of the crown. New equations are presented for average overtopping discharge, distribution of instantaneous discharge, and distribution of individual wave volumes. Equations are also given for mean flow thickness, RMS wave height, mean velocity, and velocity of the wave front down the landward-side slope.  相似文献   

6.
In this paper we describe the results of a detailed analysis of CODAR measurements made from a single site during the Atlantic Remote Sensing Land Ocean Experiment (ARSLOE). The passage of a storm front generated a surge followed by wind and current reversal, superimposed on the normal semi-diurnal tides. These data have been used previously to illustrate methods for the extraction of surface-current velocities from CODAR data [1]. Here we examine the unique spatial detail provided by CODAR out to 25 km and supported by other instrumentation during this storm. A picture of the water dynamics emerges that is entirely consistent with the physical processes expected over these spatial scales.  相似文献   

7.
Based on the Vine copula theory, a trivariate statistical model of significant wave height, characterized wave period and mean wave direction was constructed. To maintain the properties of the different types of variables, a special copula function was derived from the model developed by Johnson and Wehrly based on the maximum entropy principle. It was then combined with the Archimedean copulas to construct the proposed model. An effective algorithm for generating corresponding joint pseudo-random numbers was also developed. Statistical analysis of hindcast data for the significant wave height, mean wave period, and direction, which were collected from an observation point in the North Atlantic every three hours from 1997 to 2001, was performed. The marginal distributions of the significant wave height and mean wave period were fitted by a modified maximum entropy distribution, and the mean wave direction was fitted by a mixture of von Mises distributions. It was shown that the proposed model is a good fit for the data. The seasonal wave energy resources in the target area were assessed using the model estimates. Histograms of the directional wave energy, wave energy roses, and scatter and energy diagrams were presented.  相似文献   

8.
The main objective of this paper is to examine the influences of both the principal wave direction and the directional spreading parameter of the wave energy on the wave height evolution of multidirectional irregular waves over an impermeable sloping bottom and to propose an improved wave height distribution model based on an existing classical formula. The numerical model FUNWAVE 2.0, based on a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation, is employed to simulate the propagation of multidirectional irregular waves over the sloping bottom. Comparisons of wave heights derived from wave trains with various principal wave directions and different directional spreading parameters are conducted. Results show that both the principal wave direction and the wave directional spread have significant influences on the wave height evolution on a varying coastal topography. The shoaling effect for the wave height is obviously weakened with the increase of the principal wave direction and with the decrease of the directional spreading parameter. With the simulated data, the classical Klopman wave height distribution model is improved by considering the influences of both factors. It is found that the improved model performs better in describing the wave height distribution for the multidirectional irregular waves in shallow water.  相似文献   

9.
An algorithm that would extend the capabilities of a four-element square array known as the Coastal Oceans Dynamics Applications Radar (CODAR) to include the yielding of directional wave-height spectra from backscattered radiation is addressed. General expressions for the first- and second-order broadbeam radar cross-sections of the ocean surface are applied to the array. A Fourier-basis-function approach allows the broadbeam cross-sections to be written as a system of integral equations. The second-order radar return involves a double integral whose integrand contains nonlinear combinations of the unknowns, namely, the Fourier coefficients of the ocean wave directional spectrum. The first-order portion of the radar spectrum is used to linearize this integral. The matrix system then formulated is solved using a singular value decomposition (SVD) approach, and the resulting ocean spectral coefficients are used to give the directional spectrum. Test results for the algorithm are reported and discussed  相似文献   

10.
Some missions have been carried out to measure wave directional spectrum by synthetic aperture radar (SAR) and airborne real aperture radar (RAR) at a low incidence. Both them have their own advantages and limitations. Scientists hope that SAR and satellite-based RAR can complement each other for the research on wave properties in the future. For this study, the authors aim to simulate the satellite-based RAR system to validate performance for measuring the directional wave spectrum. The principal measurements are introduced and the simulation methods based on the one developed by Hauser are adopted and slightly modified. To enhance the authenticity of input spectrum and the wave spectrum measuring consistency for SAR and satellite-based RAR, the wave height spectrum inversed from Envisat ASAR data by cross spectrum technology is used as the input spectrum of the simulation system. In the process of simulation, the sea surface, backscattering signal, modulation spectrum and the estimated wave height spectrum are simulated in each look direction. Directional wave spectrum are measured based on the simulated observations from 0° to 360°. From the estimated wave spectrum, it has an 180° ambiguity like SAR, but it has no special high wave number cut off in all the direction. Finally, the estimated spectrum is compared with the input one in terms of the dominant wave wavelength, direction and SWH and the results are promising. The simulation shows that satellite-based RAR should be capable of measuring the directional wave properties. Moreover, it indicates satellite-based RAR basically can measure waves that SAR can measure.  相似文献   

11.
OSCR is an HF radar system that has been developed for high spatial resolution coastal surface current measurement. This paper describes preliminary results that demonstrate that wave measurement can be successfully obtained from suitably processed OSCR data. Comparisons with data from a WAVEC directional buoy are presented and show encouraging agreement. Some of the limitations to the measurement process are discussed and indicate a maximum range of about 20 km. Surface current variability on short time scales presents the most serious obstacle to wave measurement. This appears to be more of a problem when the mean currents are large, in that in these circumstances the data fail initial quality control criteria. However, in lower mean currents, the effect is often still present and leads to errors in long wave measurement  相似文献   

12.
随着海南深水网箱养殖规模的不断扩大,海浪精细化预报的需求越来越紧迫。以海南岛周边海域为目标区域,基于近岸海洋模式ADCIRC(Advancedcirculationmodel)和海浪模式SWAN(Simulating WavesNearshore),建立了海南岛近岸养殖区台风浪数值预报系统。该系统采用非结构高分辨率网格,近岸分辨率达到了100m。选取2014年第9号超强台风"威马逊"(RAMMASUN)进行针对海南岛近岸养殖区的台风浪数值模拟后报。模拟结果与实测数据较为吻合。采用全球预报系统GFS(Global Forecast System)风场和气压场数据作为驱动场对2018年7月的一次热带风暴过程进行预报,48小时、24小时预报的有效波高和实测结果比较平均相对误差分别为20.75%和17.0%。总体来说,该模型的预报精度可以满足近岸养殖区台风浪预报业务的需求。  相似文献   

13.
CODAR systems employ compact antenna elements such as electrically small loops and monopoles to extract bearing information in ocean surface observations. Past analysis methods have assumed that these element patterns are perfect, i.e., cosine and omnidirectional. Operations from metallic offshore platforms usually distort these patterns because of unavoidable objects in their near field. When such distortions are ignored, previous methods are shown to producesim35degrms bearing errors. Therefore least-squares methods are presented and demonstrated that deal with differential element pattern distortions. It is shown how the required relative patterns are easily measured by a boat circling the antenna, and these patterns are then stored as look-up tables in the least-squares inversion methods. Relative patterns (i.e., one element pattern divided by the other), rather than absolute, are all that are required for extraction of surface current, wave-height directional spectra, wind direction, and drifting transponder information with CODAR.  相似文献   

14.
The relationship between significant wave height and period, the variability of significant wave period, the spectral peak enhancement factor, and the directional spreading parameter of large deepwater waves around the Korean Peninsula have been investigated using various sources of wave measurement and hindcasting data. For very large waves comparable to design waves, it is recommended to use the average value of the empirical formulas proposed by Shore Protection Manual in 1977 and by Goda in 2003 for the relationship between significant wave height and period. The standard deviation of significant wave periods non-dimensionalized with respect to the mean value for a certain significant wave height varies between 0.04 and 0.21 with a typical value of 0.1 depending upon different regions and different ranges of significant wave heights. The probability density function of the peak enhancement factor is expressed as a lognormal distribution, with its mean value of 2.14, which is somewhat smaller than the value in the North Sea. For relatively large waves, the probability density function of the directional spreading parameter at peak frequency is also expressed as a lognormal distribution.  相似文献   

15.
风场对SWAN模式在台湾海峡后报结果的影响   总被引:2,自引:2,他引:0  
本文利用SWAN模式模拟分析了CCMP和DASCAT两种常用风场数据在台湾海峡海面的浪场结果。东北季风期3个月的浪场模拟结果与浮标实测波高时序数据相比,偏差均值不大于0.33 m,偏差均方根不大于0.59 m。一般在浮标波高大于3.5 m和小于1.0 m时,偏差偏大。6 h分辨率的风场数据相较于24 h分辨率风场数据对应的模拟结果更接近于浮标实测结果。在6 h和24 h分辨率的CCMP风场数据和24 h分辨率的DASCAT风场数据的模拟结果中,两两结果间的空间相关系数均不低于0.90,偏差均值不大于0.32 m,偏差均方根不大于0.4 m。  相似文献   

16.
HY-2卫星雷达高度计时标偏差估算   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
卫星雷达高度计是海洋遥感监测的重要传感器之一,测高系统和定轨系统是高度计重要的组成部分。若两系统使用不同的系统时钟,则获得的轨道高度和卫星测距值之间可能会存在一个时标偏差,该时标偏差会降低卫星雷达高度计的海面高度测量精度。针对HY-2卫星雷达高度计的时标偏差问题,本文分析了时标偏差对测高精度的影响,介绍了一种使用自交叉点数据估算时标偏差值的方法,并基于HY-2卫星雷达高度计第21个周期数据开展了时标偏差修正实验。时标偏差修正后HY-2自交叉点的海面高度差值(也称"不符值")分布收敛程度有了明显的提高,其RMS均方根值从24.7 cm减小到了7.0 cm,HY-2与Jason-2互交叉点的不符值的RMS也从16.6 cm减小到了7.3 cm。这表明本文介绍的时标偏差修正方法可有效地提高HY-2卫星雷达高度计的测高精度。  相似文献   

17.
Wave and wind characteristics based on the cyclones, in the vicinity of the Nagapattinam coastline (east coast of India) were estimated. In all, 11 cyclones have crossed near the study region during 1960–1996. For the four severe cyclones, the isobaric charts were collected at three hourly intervals from the India Meteorological Department. The storm variables such as central pressure, radius of maximum wind, speed of forward motion and direction of storm movement were extracted and the method based on standard Hydromet pressure profile, were used for the hindcast of storm wind fields. For all the cyclones the maximum significant wave height within the storm and its associated spectral peak period was estimated using the Young’s model considering the moving wind field and the results are compared with the hurricane wave prediction techniques provided in the shore protection manual published by the US Army Corps of Engineers in 1984. The study shows that the estimated wind speed and the data reported by ships were comparable. Empirical expressions relating wind speed, wave height and wave period to storm parameters were derived. The design wave height for different return periods was obtained by fitting a two-parameter Weibull distribution to the estimated significant wave heights. The design wave height was 9.39 m for 1 in 100 year return period for a direct hit of cyclone.  相似文献   

18.
This paper proposes the retrieval method of ocean wave spectrum for airborne radar observations at small incidence angles, which is slightly modified from the method developed by Hauser. Firstly, it makes use of integration method to estimate total mean square slope instead of fitting method, which aims to reduce the affects of fluctuations superposed on normalized radar cross-section by integration. Secondly, for eliminating the noise spectrum contained in signal spectrum, the method considers the signal spectrum in certain look direction without any long wave components as the assumed noise spectrum, which would be subtracted from signal spectrum in any look direction for linear wave spectrum retrieval. Estimated ν from the integration method are lower than the one from fitting method and have a standard deviation of 0.004 between them approximately. The assumed noise spectrum energy almost has no big variations along with the wave number and is slightly lower to the high wave number part of signal spectrum in any look direction, which follows that the assumption makes sense. The retrieved directional spectra are compared with the buoy records in terms of peak wavelength, peak direction and the significant wave height. Comparisons show that the retrieved peak wavelength and significant wave height are slightly higher than the buoy records but don’t differs significantly (error less than 10%). For peak direction, the swell waves in first case basically propagate in the wind direction 6 hours ago and the wind-generated waves in second case also propagate in the wind direction, but the 180? ambiguity remains. Results show that the modified method can carry out the retrieval of directional wave spectrum.  相似文献   

19.
从定常波的风浪波高随风距成长的预报公式出发 ,在一定条件下 ,导出各波向上风浪波高分量与该波向上的风距之间的关系 ,以便在不规则风区上推算风浪波高和平均波向 ;同时 ,对风区宽度作了定量化的分析。  相似文献   

20.
Extreme value theory is commonly used in offshore engineering to estimate extreme significant wave height. To justify the use of extreme value models it is of critical importance either to verify that the assumptions made by the models are satisfied by the data or to examine the effect violating model assumptions. An important assumption made in the derivation of extreme value models is that the data come from a stationary distribution. The distribution of significant wave height varies with both the direction of origin of a storm and the season it occurs in, violating the assumption of a stationary distribution. Extreme value models can be applied to analyse the data in discrete seasons or directional sectors over which the distribution can be considered approximately stationary. Previous studies have suggested that models which ignore seasonality or directionality are less accurate and will underestimate extremes. This study shows that in fact the opposite is true. Using realistic case studies, it is shown that estimates of extremes from non-seasonal models have a lower bias and variance than estimates from discrete seasonal models and that estimates from discrete seasonal models tend to be biased high. The results are also applicable to discrete directional models.  相似文献   

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