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1.
A new approach to high-order Boussinesq-type equations with ambient currents is presented. The current velocity is assumed to be uniform over depth and of the same magnitude as the shallow water wave celerity. The wave velocity field is expressed in terms of the horizontal and vertical wave velocity components at an arbitrary water depth level. Linear operators are introduced to improve the accuracy of the kinematic condition at the sea bottom. The dynamic and kinematic conditions at the free surface are expressed in terms of wave velocity variables defined directly on the free surface. The new equations provide high accuracy of linear properties as well as nonlinear properties from shallow to deep water, and extend the applicable range of relative water depth in the case of opposing currents.  相似文献   

2.
In the present study, a tethered spherical float undergoing oscillatory motion in regular waves is analysed. Float velocity is computed through dynamical equation of motion and particle velocity using linear wave theory. The results show that variation of particle velocity with respect to wave period, wave height or water depth is small compared to the variation of float velocity with respect to the same parameters. The results further indicate that the difference between float velocity and particle velocity is considerable and, in such cases, the relative velocity instead of the particle velocity has to be considered for drag force or drag power estimation. However, it is suggested that float velocity must be higher than the particle velocity in order to use relative velocity in drag force or drag power estimation.  相似文献   

3.
Near-bed horizontal (cross-shore) and vertical velocity measurements were acquired in a laboratory wave flume over a 1:8 sloping sand beach of finite depth. Data were acquired using a three-component acoustic Doppler velocimeter to measure the velocity field close to, but at a fixed distance from the bed. The near-bed velocity field is examined as close as 1.5 cm above a trough and crest of a ripple under three different types of wave forcing (Stokes waves, Stokes groups, and irregular waves). Although both horizontal and vertical velocity measurements were made, attention is focused primarily on the vertical velocity. The results clearly indicate that the measured near-bed vertical velocity (which was outside the wave-bottom boundary layer) is distinctly nonzero and not well predicted by linear theory. Spectral and bispectral analysis techniques indicate that the vertical velocity responds differently depending on the location over a ripple, and that ripple-induced effects on the velocity field are present as high as 4–8 cm above the bed (for vortex ripples with wavelengths on the order of 8 cm and amplitudes on the order of 2 cm). At greater heights above the bed, the observed wave-induced motion is adequately predicted by the linear theory.  相似文献   

4.
Numerical models of combined surface gravity wave refraction, diffraction and reflection can be solved conveniently in terms of the water surface displacement, η, and a vertically integrated, wave-induced, water particle velocity, Q. However, the normal formulation for the radiation stress components, expressed in terms of the wave energy, wave number and water depth, is correct only for linear progressive waves.This paper describes a method of calculating the radiation stress for a linear progressive wave plus an arbitrary reflected or back-scattered wave in terms of variables η and Q. The calculations are related to a finite-difference scheme. Correction factors are given which compensate for the errors introduced by the use of finite differentials in the calculation of certain elements of radiation stress.The theory upon which the analytical method is based is only exact for water of uniform depth. However, results are presented which show that the errors are not significant (typical error less than ± 2%) for bed slopes of less than 1:3.  相似文献   

5.
In this paper, we study the harmonic generation and energy dissipation as water waves propagating through coastal vegetation. Applying the homogenization theory, linear wave models have been developed for a heterogeneous coastal forest in previous works (e.g. [17], [10], [11]). In this study, the weakly nonlinear effects are investigated. The coastal forest is modeled by an array of rigid and vertically surface-piercing cylinders. Assuming monochromatic waves with weak nonlinearity incident upon the forest, higher harmonic waves are expected to be generated and radiated into open water. Using the multi-scale perturbation theory, micro-scale flows in the vicinity of cylinders and macro-scale wave dynamics are separated. Expressing the unknown variables (e.g. velocity, free surface elevation) as a superposition of different harmonic components, the governing equations for each mode are derived while different harmonics are interacting with each other because of nonlinearity in the cell problem. Different from the linear models, the leading-order cell problem for micro-scale flow motion, driven by the macro-scale pressure gradient, is now a nonlinear boundary-value-problem, while the wavelength-scale problem for wave dynamics remains linear. A modified pressure correction method is employed to solve the nonlinear cell problem. An iterative scheme is introduced to connect the micro-scale and macro-scale problems. To demonstrate the theoretical results, we consider incident waves scattered by a homogeneous forest belt in a constant shallow depth. Higher harmonic waves are generated within the cylinder array and radiated out to the open water region. The comparisons of numerical results obtained by linear and nonlinear models are presented and the behavior of different harmonic components is discussed. The effects of different physical parameters on wave solutions are discussed as well.  相似文献   

6.
Tidal current velocity profile in the near-bed layers has been widely studied. The results showed that velocity profile in the near-bed layer obviously departure from the traditional logarithmic profile, due to the acceleration or deceleration. Although the logarithmic linear profile can reduce the rate of deviation from this, only it is a lower-order approximate solution. In this paper, considering the unsteady and non-linear features of tidal motion, the double logarithmic profile near-bed layers in estuarine and coastal waters is established on the assumption that the turbulent shear stress along the water depth was parabolic distribution, and on the basis of Prandtl''s mixing length theory and von Karman''s self-similar theory. Having been verified the data observed at the West Solent in the south of England, and comparison of the logarithmic linear profile, it found that the double logarithmic profile is more precious than the latter. At last, the discussed results showed that:(1) The parabolic distribution of the tidal shear stresses verified good by the field data and experimental data, can be better reflected the basic features of the tidal shear stress deviating from linear distribution that is downward when to accelerate, upward when to decelerate. (2) The traditional logarithmic velocity profile is the zero-order approximation solution of the double logarithmic profile, the logarithmic linear profile is the first order, and the logarithmic parabolic profile is the second order. (3) Ignoring the conditions of diffusion and convection in the tidal movement, the double logarithmic profile can reflect the tidal properties of acceleration or deceleration, so that the calculation of the friction velocity and roughness length are more reasonable. When the acceleration or the deceleration is about zero, the double logarithmic profile becomes the logarithmic profile.  相似文献   

7.
Stratified fluid flows caused by torsional or linear harmonic oscillations of a ring along the surface of an infinite vertical cylinder have been calculated by methods of the perturbation theory. The complete solutions of the linearized system of equations with sticking boundary conditions for velocity and impermeable boundary conditions for substance have been obtained taking into account viscosity and diffusion. Disturbances forming a conical beam of three-dimensional internal waves and families of small-scale components are identified. Formulas for calculating waves in media with different Schmidt numbers are described.  相似文献   

8.
Weakly non-linear free oscillations in a basin of variable depth filled with non-viscous fluid are investigated in terms of the long waves theory using the perturbation technique. Solutions to the initial two approximations for the horizontal velocity component and free surface departure are numerically derived. An attempt is made to determine the area of applicability of the linear theory by applying a parabolic bottom profile to the basin.Translated by V. Puchkin.  相似文献   

9.
A newly developed three-dimensional Doppler current meter is described and the results of preliminary field experiments are presented where simultaneous measurements of surface elevation and water velocity associated with wave orbital motion were made. The phase difference between the surface elevation and the vertical velocity measured at 1.0 and 0.45 meters below the mean water level is found to be approximately 90, in accord with the theory for surface waves of infinitesimally small amplitudes. The spectral (frequency) density distribution for velocity is also found to agree with that we would expect from the linear theory for the observed frequency distribution of surface elevation. However, the amplitude of velocity is consistently smaller (about 10 %) than that we would expect. This reduction of amplitude is more pronounced in cases where waves are high and the water depth is shallow.  相似文献   

10.
Numerical Wave Channel with Absorbing Wave-Maker   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  
The numerical wave channel has been developed based on the volume of fluid method (VOF) in conjunction with the Navier-Stokes equations. The absorbing wave-maker boundary on the left side of the channel is presented by prescribing velocity reference to linear wave-maker theory. The principle of which is that the numerical wave-maker is designed to move in a way that generates the required incident wave and cancels out any reflected wave that reach it at the same time. On the right side of the channel, the open boundary is set to permit incident waves to be transmitted freely. The parametric studies have been carried out at a range of ratios of water depth to wave length d/ L from 0.124 to 0.219, with wave height in the front of paddle/water depth ratio (H0 / d) from 0.1 to 0.3. Wave height, wave pressure distribution along the channel and velocity field are obtained for both open boundary condition and reflective boundary condition at the other end of the channel. For a reflective case, it is shown that  相似文献   

11.
Diffraction of a plane progressive wave on a localized rise of arbitrary height of the sea-bed is studied within the framework of general linear theory of eddy-free waves. The solution is selected using finite-difference method. It is shown that the wave velocity field over the bank displays a character of localized disturbances attenuating as distance. Increase in depth intensifies centres of disturbances over the mountain peak. Vertical velocity amplitude in the area of the sea-bed rise may be an order of magnitude larger compared to its background value.UDK 551.466.8  相似文献   

12.
-In previous and this studies it appears that the linear and nonlinear wave theory can notaccurately and easily predict the water particle velocities.Therefore,different from the theoretical consider-ations,in this study we have attempted to determine the transfer function empirically.Laboratory experi-ments were performed under various wave conditions.The empirical formulas of the transfer function ofthe wave height,angular frequency and water particle velocity were obtained on the basis of these test databy dimensional analysis and regression analysis.In intermediate and deep water depth conditions,thetransfer function was only a function of a nondimensional parameter which is composed of the angular fre-quency,the depth of the velocity gauge under the still water level,water depth and the acceleration of grav-ity.Finally,the empirical formulas were compared with experimental data and observational data formpresent and Cavaleri's(1978)studies.The empirical formulas were found to be in sufficient correl  相似文献   

13.
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14.
The hydroelastic responses of a submerged horizontal solid/porous plate attached at the front of a very large rectangular floating structure(VLFS) under wave action has been investigated in the context of linear water wave theory. Darcy's law is adopted to represent energy dissipation in pores. It is assumed that the porous plates are made of material with very fine pores so that the normal velocity across the perforated porous is linearly associated with the pressure drop. In the analytic method, the eigenfunction expansion-matching method(EEMM) for multiple domains is applied to solve the hydrodynamic problem and the elastic equation of motion is solved by the modal expansion method. The performance of the proposed submerged horizontal solid/porous plate can be significantly enhanced by selecting optimal design parameters, such as plate length, horizontal position, submerged depth and porosity. It is concluded that good damping effect can be achieved through installation of solid and porous plate.Porous plate has better damping effect at low frequencies, while solid plate has better damping effect at high frequencies. The optimal ratio of plate length to water depth is 0.25-0.375, and the optimal ratio of submerged depth to water depth is 0.09-0.181.  相似文献   

15.
Surface water wave elevations and kinematics from four unidirectional irregular wave trains, with a Pierson and Moskowitz or JONSWAP random wave spectrum, were measured in the laboratory using resistance wave probes and a laser Doppler anemometer. The wave elevation data, velocity time series, extreme (largest) wave horizontal velocity profiles and extreme wave acceleration fields are compared with the predictions of a new wave kinematics model, named the hybrid wave model. Irregular waves are commonly viewed as the summation of many linear wave components of different frequencies, but more accurate predictions of downstream surface elevations (wave evolution) and wave kinematics are attained by considering the non-linear interactions among wave components. The hybrid wave model incorporates these non-linear wave component interactions, and its wave evolution predictions and kinematics estimates are compared with laboratory measurements in this study. Linear random wave theory, Wheeler stretching and linear extrapolation wave kinematic prediction techniques are also compared. Comparisons between measurements and hybrid wave model estimates demonstrate its improved capability to predict velocity and acceleration fields and wave evolution in two-dimensional irregular waves.  相似文献   

16.
SONG  Hao 《中国海洋工程》2002,16(3):283-300
Very Large Floating Structures (VLFS) have drawn considerable attention recently due to their potential significance in the exploitation of ocean resources and in the utilization of ocean space. Efficient and accurate estimation of their hydroelastic responses to waves is very important for the design. Recently, an efficient numerical algorithm was developed by Ertekin and Kim (1999). However, in their analysis, the linear Level I Green-Naghdi (GN) theory is employed to describe fluid dynamics instead of the conventional linear wave (LW) theory of finite water depth. They claimed that this linear level I GN theory provided betler predictions of the hydroelastic responses of VLFS than the linear wave theory. In this paper, a detailed derivation is given in the conventional linear wave theory framework with the same quantity as used in the linear level I GN theory framework. This allows a critical comparison between the linear wave theory and the linear level I GN theory. it is found that the linear level  相似文献   

17.
The results of laboratory modeling of geostrophic adjustment in a shallow-water layer in rotating paraboloid are presented. According to the Rossby-Obukhov theory, this process excites nonstationary wave and stationary vortex (geostrophic) components of motion in a rotating fluid. In our experiments, the wave and vortex components were excited by extracting a preliminarily imbedded hemisphere (which made the initial distribution of the depth of the fluid inhomogeneous) from the central area of a rotating vessel with a parabolic base. Under this excitation technique, a prominent cyclonic eddy is formed in the central portion; the structure of this eddy is satisfactorily described within the linear theory of adjustment. Along with the shallow-water experiments, the published experimental data on modeling geostrophic adjustment in a two-layer medium are analyzed. A simple analytic solution to the corresponding problem of the adjustment theory is obtained, and this solution agrees with the experiment.  相似文献   

18.
An analytical method is developed to study the sheltering effects on arc-shaped floating perforated breakwaters. In the process of analysis, the floating breakwater is assumed to be rigid, thin, vertical, and immovable and located in water with constant depth. The fluid domain is divided into two regions by imaginary interface. The velocity potential in each region is expanded by eigenfunction in the context of linear theory. By satisfying continuity of pressure and normal velocity across the imaginary fluid interface, a set of linear algebraic equations can be obtained to determine the unknown coefficients for eigenfunction expansions. The accuracy of the present model was verified by a comparison with existing results for the case of arc-shaped floating breakwater. Numerical results, in the form of contour maps of the non-dimensional wave amplitude around the breakwater and diffracted wave amplitude at typical sections, are presented for a range of wave and breakwater parameters. Results show that the sheltering effects on the arc-shaped floating perforated breakwater are closely related to the incident wavelength, the draft and the porosity of the breakwater.  相似文献   

19.
Vertical variations of wave-induced radiation stress tensor   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  
INTRODUcrIONThe concept of radiation stress was deve1oPed by tonguet--Higgins and Stewart (1964 ),who intreduced the definition of radiation stress as the excess mornentum due to the presence ofwaves, on the basis of time-averaged laws of Newtonian fluid mechanics and the assmption ofa unifOrm velocity distribution over depth. Subequently, the theory has been applied success-fully in the investigation of phenomena such as wave set-up and set--down (Bowen et al.,l968), longshore currents …  相似文献   

20.
Wunsch提出的反演模式已被人们广泛用于大洋中的环流计算。贝塔螺旋(Beta Spiral)技术也被广泛用于海洋中单站三维流速的计算。本文旨在利用“科学一号”考察船一九八九年十月在西太平洋取得的CTD资料,以这两种方法相结合,优化算出该海域的流速场和体积输送量。  相似文献   

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