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1.
基于湛江湾口外海图地形资料,采用GIS与动力地貌分析的方法,研究了近50年来湛江湾口外落潮三角洲的冲淤变化特征,对湛江湾口外落潮三角洲的演变机制进行了探讨。湛江口外落潮三角洲体系包括口外东北浅滩、西南边滩及口门通道深槽。近50年来,东北浅滩东缘及滩顶出现了侵蚀后退,浅滩西缘和南缘呈淤积趋势,东北浅滩整体有西移南扩趋势;西南边滩有不同程度的侵蚀后退;口门通道深槽有所淤积。湛江湾口外落潮三角洲侵蚀与沿岸泥沙供给不足及人类活动影响有关,口门通道深槽淤积除与落潮三角洲侵蚀泥沙向西搬运有关外,还可能与湛江湾内围垦导致口门通道潮汐动力减弱有关。航道北侧东北浅滩变化对航道回淤的可能影响值得关注。 相似文献
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Modelled channel patterns in a schematized tidal inlet 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Tidal inlets in the Dutch Wadden Sea show typical morphological features, i.e. westward oriented main inlet channel and ebb-tidal delta. The objective of this study is to find the governing physical processes of these morphological features. The study uses a 2DH process-based morphodynamic model (Delft3D) on a schematized model domain, with dimensions similar to the Ameland inlet in the Dutch Wadden Sea.Starting from a flat bed the models are forced by tides only. Short-term simulations are made to explore the hydrodynamic characteristics and initial sedimentation and erosion patterns. Long-term morphodynamic simulations are employed to investigate the governing parameters of the main inlet channel and the ebb-tidal delta evolution. Sensitivity of the evolution is described in terms of initial inlet width (1.0 km and 3.5 km), direction and asymmetry of tidal forcing (M2, M4), transport formulations (Van Rijn, 1993; Engelund and Hansen, 1967) and relative position of the tidal basin with respect to the inlet (East (existing), Middle, and West).The results tend to produce morphological features typical to the Ameland inlet. The direction of tidal forcing is the main governing parameter to the present orientation of the main inlet channel and the ebb-tidal delta. The model results generally prove the conceptual hypotheses that describe the orientation of the main inlet channel and the ebb-tidal delta. 相似文献
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Bruno Castelle Julien Bourget Nathalie Molnar Darrell Strauss Sophie Deschamps Rodger Tomlinson 《Coastal Engineering》2007
Currumbin Creek on the Australian Gold Coast is a wave-dominated tidal inlet which exhibits a particularly active morphology. The recent history of Currumbin Creek entrance has seen rapid growth of the entrance for access to the ocean by fishermen, as a world class surfing site, and as a recreational area. Before the construction of two groynes in the 70's, Currumbin Creek entrance was highly variable in terms of inlet location and sand bar characteristics due to a cyclical behaviour of spit migration. Nowadays, the entrance is stabilised. However, natural processes continue with the entrance infilling causing flood and navigation issues, resulting in a regular dredging program to maintain an open entrance and for regular beach nourishment plans. 相似文献
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青岛近海潮流沉积体系 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：2
通过分析钻孔和浅地层剖面资料,研究了胶州湾及青岛前海潮流沉积体系。该体系包括大沽河-洋河潮控三角洲和与狭口海湾密切相关的涨、落潮流三角洲,潮流作用在各三角洲的形成过程中为主要的沉积动力。前者发育在湾西侧,形成了河口沙坝和分流间湾等沉积相;后者分布在湾口两侧,以潮道和潮流沙脊为主要特征。根据对各沉积相特征的分析,认为潮流沉积体系的演化已整体趋于稳定。 相似文献
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本文以丁字湾等基岩海湾为例，论述了黄渤海沿岸海湾－溺谷型潮汐汉道的地貌结构，尤其着重于口门段深槽及涨、落潮三角洲。认为涨、落潮三角洲的发育状况与入湾河流的供沙量、纳潮水域容量、被浪作用、潮差以及口少卜海域的开阔程度有关；泻湖型潮汐汉道的落潮三角洲的典型模式可以应用于海湾－溺谷型潮汐汉道，但涨潮三角洲因受基岩海湾的复杂岸线的限制而不能充分发育。本文还讨论了海湾型潮汐汉道与半开敞海湾在动力和形态中的差异。 相似文献
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Morphodynamics of ebb-tidal deltas: a model approach 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
S. M. van Leeuwen M. van der Vegt H. E. de Swart 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2003,57(5-6):899-907
The results of 2DH numerical models of the Frisian Inlet (located in the Dutch Wadden Sea) are discussed to gain further knowledge about the physical mechanisms causing the presence of both ebb-tidal deltas and of channels and shoals in tide-dominated inlet systems. A hydrodynamic model, extended with sediment transport formulations, was used to verify earlier conceptual models that deal with ebb-tidal delta characteristics. The model does not confirm their hypothesis concerning the observed spatial asymmetry of ebb-tidal deltas and suggests that long-term morphological simulations are needed to understand this aspect. Furthermore, the model indicates that the initial formation of the ebb-tidal delta is mainly due to convergence of the tidally averaged sediment flux related to residual currents, whilst the net sediment transport in the basin is mainly caused by tidal asymmetry. A second model (accounting for feedbacks between tidal motion and the erodible bottom) was used to simulate the long-term bathymetric evolution of the Frisian Inlet under fair weather conditions. This model reproduces the gross characteristics of the observed morphology: the presence of a double-inlet system with two distinct ebb-tidal deltas having different sizes and the presence of channels and shoals. The role of the ‘Engelsmanplaat’, a consolidated shoal in the middle of the Frisian Inlet, was not found to be crucial for the morphodynamic stability of this inlet system. 相似文献
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《Marine Geology》2006,225(1-4):23-44
The morphodynamics of inlets and ebb-tidal deltas reflect the interaction between wave and tidal current-driven sediment transport and significantly influence the behaviour of adjacent shorelines. Studies of inlet morphodynamics have tended to focus on sand-dominated coastlines and reference to gravel-dominated or ‘gravel-rich’ inlets is rare. This work characterises and conceptualises the morphodynamics of a meso-tidal sand–gravel inlet at the mouth of the Deben estuary, southeast England. Behaviour of the inlet and ebb-tidal delta over the last 200 yr is analysed with respect to planform configuration and bathymetry. The estuary inlet is historically dynamic, with ebb-tidal shoals exhibiting broadly cyclic behaviour on a 10 to 30 yr timescale. Quantification of inlet parameters for the most recent cycle (1981–2003) indicate an average ebb delta volume of 1 × 106 m3 and inlet cross-sectional area of 775 m2. Bypassing volumes provide a direct indicator of annual longshore sediment transport rate over this most recent cycle of 30–40 × 103 m3 yr− 1. Short-term increases in total ebb-tidal delta volume are linked to annual variability in the north to northeasterly wind climate. The sediment bypassing mechanism operating in the Deben inlet is comparable to the ‘ebb delta breaching’ model of FitzGerald [FitzGerald, D.M., 1988. Shoreline erosional–depositional processes associated with tidal inlets, in: Aubrey, D.G., Weishar, L. (Ed.), Hydrodynamics and Sediment Dynamics of Tidal Inlets. Springer-Verlag Inc., New York, pp. 186–225.], although the scales and rates of change exhibited are notably different to sand-dominated systems. A systematic review of empirical models of sand-dominated inlet and ebb-tidal delta morphodynamics (e.g. those of [O'Brien, M.P., 1931. Estuary tidal prisms related to entrance areas. Civil Engineering, 1, 738–739.; Walton, T.L., and Adams, W.D., 1976. Capacity of inlet outer bars to store sand. Proceedings of 15th Coastal Engineering Conference, 1919–1937.; Gaudiano, D.J., Kana, T.W., 2001. Shoal bypassing in mixed energy inlets: geomorphic variables and empirical predictions for nine South Carolina inlets. J. Coast. Res., 17, (2), 280–291.]) shows the Deben system to be significantly smaller yet characterised by a longer bypassing cycle than would be expected for its tidal prism. This is attributed to its coarse-grained sedimentology and the lower efficiency of sediment transporting processes. 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(5-6):505-529
Texel inlet, the largest inlet in the Dutch Wadden Sea, has undergone drastic changes in the morphology of basin, ebb-tidal delta and adjacent coastlines after closure of a major part of its back-barrier basin. Despite intensive monitoring and analysis, present observation-based conceptual models lack the subtle physics necessary to explain the sand exchange between inlet, ebb-tidal delta and adjacent coastlines.Fundamental understanding of the inlet dynamics and evolution is obtained by integrating field and model data analysis. The state-of-the-art process-based model Delft3D Online Morphology has been used to generate synoptic data of high spatial and temporal resolution over the inlet domain. It is shown that the Delft3D Online Morphology model is capable of the quasi real-time simulation of the dominant flow and transport patterns over a 3-month period on the scale of the inlet. The high-resolution numerical model results prove to be a valuable tool in identifying the main transport patterns and mechanisms in the inlet domain. Qualitative transport patterns in Texel Inlet and its associated ebb-tidal delta are derived by integration of the observations and model results.The present ebb-tidal delta developments are best described as a second-stage self-organizing phase of redistribution and recirculation of sediments to obtain a natural dynamic equilibrium state, adapted to the changed configuration of the main-ebb channels. Sand is transported from the abandoned ebb-delta front (western margin of Noorderhaaks) and along the adjacent coastlines into the basin where it partly settles. Ebb-tidal currents redistribute sand back from the basin mainly onto the southern ebb-tidal delta shoals. Large gross transport rates, but small morphological changes, point to sediment recirculation. Sediment import into the basin results from net flood dominated transport due to tidal asymmetry, landward directed wind- and wave-driven flow, and larger flood transport capacities due to wave effects (e.g. enhanced bed shear stresses and stirring of sediment) that exceed the net ebb-dominated tidal residual transports. 相似文献
9.
Anthropogenic influences on shoreline and nearshore evolution in the San Francisco Bay coastal system 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Analysis of four historical bathymetric surveys over a 132-year period has revealed significant changes to the morphology of the San Francisco Bar, an ebb-tidal delta at the mouth of San Francisco Bay estuary. From 1873 to 2005 the San Francisco Bar vertically-eroded an average of 80 cm over a 125 km2 area, which equates to a total volume loss of 100 ± 52 million m3 of fine- to coarse-grained sand. Comparison of the surveys indicates the entire ebb-tidal delta contracted radially, with the crest moving landward an average of 1 km. Long-term erosion of the ebb-tidal delta is hypothesized to be due to a reduction in the tidal prism of San Francisco Bay and a decrease in coastal sediment supply, both as a result of anthropogenic activities. Prior research indicates that the tidal prism of the estuary was reduced by 9% from filling, diking, and sedimentation. Compilation of historical records dating back to 1900 reveals that a minimum of 200 million m3 of sediment has been permanently removed from the San Francisco Bay coastal system through dredging, aggregate mining, and borrow pit mining. Of this total, ∼54 million m3 of sand-sized or coarser sediment was removed from central San Francisco Bay. With grain sizes comparable to the ebb-tidal delta, and its direct connection to the bay mouth, removal of sediments from central San Francisco Bay may limit the sand supply to the delta and open coast beaches. 相似文献
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The paper presents investigations of wave climate, tidal inlet hydraulics, and sand sediment bypassing at the entrance to Westport Harbour, South Island, New Zealand. The results complement and extend those of studies of bar morphologies and sediment characteristics already published. Longshore transport of about 1 × 106 m3/year is directed in a net eastward fashion across the inlet because of an in‐built misalignment of the harbour training walls. Approximately 90% of the drift is bypassed, and has been since 1921, by deflection and splitting of the main sediment streams through the inner and outer bars and a transverse channel aoross the entrance. The outer bar appears to be the submarine, downdrift extension of Carters Breach and river load appears to contribute an order of magnitude less sediment to the complex than annual littoral drift. River sediments and littoral drift are mixed off the harbour and a declining proportion over time is recirculated to cause progradation of North Beach. The tidal compartment contributes little to scour of the entrance because of the predominance of bar bypassing. Contrary to the recommendations of several past studies, it is argued that improvements in navigation depths at West‐port are more likely to be obtained through modification of the littoral drift system than they are from tidal compartment enlargement. 相似文献
13.
Process-based modeling of morphodynamics of a tidal inlet system 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The morphodynamic evolution of an idealized inlet system is investigated using a 2-D depthaveraged process-based model,incorporating the hydrodynamic equations,Englund-Hansen’s sediment transport formula and the mass conservation equation.The model has a fixed geometry,impermeable boundaries and uniform sediment grain size,and driven by shore-parallel tidal elevations.The results show that the model reproduces major elements of the inlet system,i.e.,flood and ebb tidal deltas,inlet channel.Equilibrium is reached after several years when the residual transport gradually decreases and eventually diminishes.At equilibrium,the flow field characteristics and morphological patterns agree with the schematized models proposed by O’Brien (1969) and Hayes (1980).The modeled minimum cross-sectional entrance area of the tidal inlet system is comparable with that calculated with the statistical P-A relationship for tidal inlets along the East China Sea coast.The morphological evolution of the inlet system is controlled by a negative feedback between hydrodynamics,sediment transport and bathymetric changes.The evolution rates decrease exponentially with time,i.e.,the system develops rapidly at an early stage while it slows down at later stages.Temporal changes in hydrodynamics occur in the system;for example,the flood velocity decreases while its duration increases,which weakens the flood domination patterns.The formation of the multi-channel system in the tidal basin can be divided into two stages;at the first stage the flood delta is formed and the water depth is reduced,and at the second stage the flood is dissected by a number of tidal channels in which the water depth increases in response to tidal scour. 相似文献
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A study of the East Frisian Islands has shown that the plan form of these islands can be explained by processes of inlet sediment bypassing. This island chain is located on a high wave energy, high tide range shoreline where the average deep-water significant wave height exceeds 1.0 m and the spring tidal range varies from 2.7 m at Juist to 2.9 m at Wangerooge. An abundant sediment supply and a strong eastward component of wave power (4.4 × 103 W m−1) have caused a persistent eastward growth of the barrier islands. The eastward extension of the barriers has been accommodated more by inlet narrowing, than by inlet migration.
It is estimated from morphological evidence that a minimum of 2.7 × 105 m3 of sand is delivered to the inlets each year via the easterly longshore transport system. Much of this sand ultimately bypasses the inlets in the form of large, migrating swash bars. The location where the swash bars attach to the beach is controlled by the amount of overlap of the ebb-tidal delta along the downdrift inlet shoreline. The configuration of the ebbtidal delta, in turn, is a function of inlet size and position of the main ebb channel. The swash bar welding process has caused preferential beach nourishment and historical shoreline progradation. Along the East Frisian Islands this process has produced barrier islands with humpbacked, bulbous updrift and bulbous downdrift shapes. The model of barrier island development presented in this paper not only explains well the configuration of the German barriers but also the morphology of barriers along many other mixed energy coasts. 相似文献
16.
E. E. Antia 《Geo-Marine Letters》1994,14(1):59-63
The ebb-tidal delta model of McBride and Moslow is the most comprehensive on the morphogenesis and distribution of shoreface ridges along the US Atlantic seaboard to date. This discussion evaluates the applicability of the above model to the southern North Sea barrier island coast. Results indicate that the characteristics of the North Sea shoreface-connected ridge sediments display a genetic relationship with those of the inlet ebb delta as implied by the ebb-tidal model. By contrast, ridge orientation is not well accounted for by lateral inlet migration and shoreline recession as suggested by the model. A possible reason for the aforementioned discrepancy is discussed. 相似文献
17.
Mean water level setup/setdown in the inlet-lagoon system induced by tidal action-a case study of Xincun Inlet, Hainan Island in China 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
With the tides propagating from the open sea to the lagoon, the mean water level （MWL） in the inlet and lagoon becomes different from that at the open sea, and a setup/setdown is generated. The change of MWL （setup/setdown） in the system imposes a great impact on regulating the development of tidal marshes, on determining the long-term water level for harbor maintenance, on the planning for the water front development with the flood control for the possible inundation, and on the interpretation of the historical sea level change when using tidal marsh peat deposits in the lagoon as the indicator for open sea＇ s sea level. In this case study on the mechanisms which control the setup/setdown in Xincun Inlet, Hainan in China, the 2-D barotropic mode of Eulerian - Lagrangian CIRCulation （ELCIRC） model was utilized. After model calibration and verification, a series of numerical experiments were conducted to examine the effects of bottom friction and advection terms, wetting and drying of intertidal areas, bathymetry and boundary conditions on the setup/setdown in the system. The modeling results show that setup occurs over the inlet and lagoon areas with an order of one tenth of the tide range at the entrance. The larger the bottom friction is, a larger setup is generated. Without the advection term, the setup is reduced clue to a decrease of water level gradient to compensate for the disappearance of the advection term. Even without overtides, a setup can still be developed in the system. Sea level rise and dredging in the inlet and tidal channel can cause a decrease of setup in the system, whereas shoaling of the system can increase the setup. The uniqueness of the Xincun Inlet with respect to MWL change is that there is no evident setdown in the inlet, which can be attributed to the complex geometry and bathymetry associated with the inlet system. 相似文献
18.
The economical and ecological importance of tidal inlets has fostered the development of empirical tools for inlet management during the last century. This study aims at confronting these empirical theories with results obtained with a process-based numerical model, MORSYS2D. This 2DH morphodynamic modeling system is applied to an idealized tidal inlet/lagoon system with different combinations of significant wave height, tidal range and tidal prism. The numerical model predictions are compared to the empirical models of Hayes, Bruun, O'Brien and FitzGerald and to morphologies observed at natural tidal inlets. The results present good accordance with observations as well as with some key behaviors predicted with the empirical theories. The predicted morphologies satisfy the relation of O'Brien between the tidal prism and the cross-sectional area, the model reproduces the conceptual model of sand by-passing by ebb-tidal delta breaching of FitzGerald and the classifications of Hayes and Bruun are generally respected. However, some inconsistencies between model results and Hayes classification highlight the limitations of applying this classification, which only considers the yearly-averaged significant wave height and tidal range, to a single tidal inlet case. 相似文献
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曹妃甸老龙沟动力地貌体系及演化 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
老龙沟为典型沙坝-泻湖型潮汐汊道,潮汐汊道地貌结构完整.老龙沟口门处潮流动力最强,发育-20m的深槽.口门内涨潮流三角洲上发育完整的多级水道体系.口门外落潮三角洲止于-11 m水深处.以突起的末端坝为地形标志,落潮主水道偏于落潮三角洲东侧发育,落潮三角洲西侧发育宽缓冲流平台.落潮主水道以落潮流为优势,冲流平台上潮流动力... 相似文献