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1.
浅水湖泊等有限风吹程及水深水域的风浪多处于发展阶段，风拖曳表层水体产生的滑移流会对风浪传播特性产生影响，风浪的波速、波长等参数难以通过线性波的理论频散关系获取。为准确预测湖泊风浪参数，在考虑浅水湖泊的有限吹程和水深特征的基础上，利用风洞水槽模拟研究了滑移流对风浪传播特性的影响。结果表明：滑移流、斯托克斯流及表面流均与风速正相关，滑移流与表面流比值随着风速的增加逐渐降低并稳定于75%；滑移流对波速和波长有促进作用，对小尺度波浪的促进作用尤其显著；波浪非线性会抑制滑移流对波速及波长的促进作用；建立了考虑滑移流影响的风浪经验频散关系式以及风浪主频波速经验关系式。 相似文献
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通过波浪水槽试验,研究了珊瑚礁地形上规则波的破碎特征,包括破碎类型、破碎波高、破碎位置以及破碎带宽度。试验在带礁缘的复合坡度断面下进行,测试了两种水位下系列波高和波周期相组合的工况。试验研究了波浪破碎类型的区分标准,评估了已有四类破碎指标在复合坡度珊瑚礁地形上的适用性,并给出了描述破碎位置和破碎带宽度的经验公式。结果表明:礁边水深深水波高比可较好地区分波浪的破碎类型;四类破碎指标关系式中以破碎波高深水波高比之于深水波陡的相关性为最优;深水波高和礁边水深是影响破碎位置和破碎带宽度的主要因素,随着深水波高礁边水深比的增大,量纲一破碎位置（破碎点与礁边的距离和礁边处浅水波长的比值）逐渐减小,量纲一破碎带宽度（破碎带宽度和礁边浅水波长的比值）逐渐增大。 相似文献
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风浪在自然水体中广泛存在,是浮游生物生存环境的本质特征。在湖泊（特别是浅水湖泊）中,风浪过程广泛影响着水体的物理、化学特性,并直接和间接对浮游生物产生重要影响。综述了风浪对湖泊浮游动物、浮游植物和浮游细菌影响的相关研究。风浪对浮游生物的时空分布及其在塑造浮游生物系统的结构和功能中发挥了至关重要的作用:风浪条件在浮游生物的行为、营养盐吸收速率和通量、捕食及其生长、竞争和演替等方面均具有广泛且重要的影响,并显著影响着水体食物网的结构和功能,最终对湖泊生态系统的结构和功能产生潜在的影响。提出了未来研究的主要方向为进一步揭示全球气候变化条件下风浪在湖泊中的生态环境效应,为富营养湖泊的治理和管理提供新的认识和决策支持。 相似文献
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为了解影响舟山岛的台风浪特性,基于舟山岛东北部沿海水域深、浅水两个测站同步测量的6个台风过程波浪资料,统计分析了两测站的波参数变化和谱变化特性,探讨了波浪变化的原因。研究显示:①灿鸿过程的深、浅水站最大波高均大于其他5个台风浪过程;②多数台风浪过程深水站波向主要为东及东南东向,而浅水站主要为东、东北东及东北向,水下地形对波向变化起主要作用;③不同路径台风对两测站谱型有明显影响,灿鸿、巴蓬、黄蜂和天鹅过程的波浪在两站以双峰谱为主,苏迪罗和杜鹃过程深水站波浪以单峰谱居多,浅水站则多峰谱多于单峰谱。研究成果对沿海建筑物的设计以及防灾减灾有重要参考价值。 相似文献
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复合筒型基础是一种新型的宽浅式基础型式。在风、波浪、海流等动力荷载的作用下,复合筒型基础内外地基孔隙水压力的变化对结构安全产生影响。模拟了复合筒型基础受到的风浪流荷载,并将风浪流荷载合理叠加,采用三维有限元方法分析了风浪流联合作用下复合筒型基础地基动力响应规律。同时对复合筒型基础内外地基孔隙水压力的变化规律及液化范围进行了系统分析,通过分析发现：复合筒型基础附近海床液化深度随着饱和度、渗透系数、波浪周期、水深的增大而增大,随着泊松比的增大而减小。 相似文献
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应用偏微分方程最优化控制理论,导出了二维浅水方程糙率自动率定的最优化系统,实现了二维水力学模型计算中分布式糙率参数的自动率定算法。结合实际应用的可操作性,按区块设定糙率,对恒定流和非恒定流两种流态分别进行了常数糙率和随水深变化的糙率自动率定实验。数值实验表明,在观测数据包含足够的信息时,该方法不仅能够准确地自动率定出相关的糙率参数,还能成功地将糙率随水深的变化关系式识别出来。但是,糙率水深变化关系识别迭代收敛速度显著变慢,因此,建议采用相应的实现对策来考虑变糙率的洪水预测问题。 相似文献
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为了研究北方浅水湖泊冬季结冰对风生流的影响,采用MIKE21构建山东省聊城市东昌湖水动力学模型,分析真实风场作用下6种风应力拖曳系数对应的模拟流速与实测数据的差异,进一步讨论了冰盖面积对模拟结果产生的影响。结果表明,风应力拖曳系数为随风速连续变化比设置为常数模拟精度提高20%左右,其中采用微风条件下的风应力拖曳系数表达式模拟效果最好。此外,冬季水体结冰对风生流数值模拟影响较大,尤其是在被冰盖所覆盖的水域,风应力对水体流动的作用减弱甚至被抵消。与传统的风生流模拟相比,在北方浅水湖泊冬季风生流模拟中,引入冰场或是对风应力拖曳系数进行相应调整是有必要的。 相似文献
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基于波作用量守恒方程建立了波流共存场中多向随机波浪传播变形数学模型,模型中考虑了波浪绕射的影响和水流引起的波浪弥散多普勒效应,应用包含水流和地形影响的激破波模式计算波浪破碎的能量耗散,采用一阶上迎风有限差分格式离散控制方程。分别计算了有无近岸流情况下单向和多向随机波浪的波高分布,考虑水流影响的数值计算结果与物理模型实验数据吻合良好,比较分析表明,所建立的数学模型能够复演由于离岸流引起的波高增大,可用于波流共存场多向随机波浪传播变形的模拟和预报。 相似文献
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磨刀门已由"径流型"向"径流-波浪型"河口转变,波浪已是该河口主要动力之一,但波浪对河口洪季水流及泄洪的影响缺少研究。在2-D潮流数学模型中添加随潮位实时变化的波浪辐射应力,建立波浪潮流耦合数学模型;波浪求解采用缓坡方程,背景水深由潮流模型实时提供,可通过比较考虑和未考虑波浪影响的河口流场来分析波浪对泄洪的影响。在年均常浪作用下,磨刀门河口洪季涨落潮阶段均有明显的波生环流结构。由于波浪作用方向向陆,波生流减弱了浅滩区的向海余流,增大了浅滩向陆余流;受浅滩向海余流减弱影响,河口动力自调整后形成归槽水流,促使深槽内向海余流增大。波浪有顶托河口泄洪之势,可改变滩槽泄洪分配比例;年均常浪的波高较小,其对潮流及泄洪的影响区域限制在浅水区,故对泄洪的负面影响有限。 相似文献
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J. Swain R. K. Shukla A. Raghunadha Rao J. K. Panigrahi N. R. Venkitachalam 《Journal of Earth System Science》2003,112(2):255-266
Time-series wind and wave measurements were carried out onboard INS Sagardhwani in the central Bay of Bengal during BOBMEX-99.
Various other marine meteorological and oceanographic measurements relevant to monsoon studies were also collected simultaneously.
The observed variations of wind and waves and the associated mixed layer depth (MLD) variability based on both temperature
and density criteria at 3 hourly intervals are presented in this paper as a case study. At the time-series location (13‡N,
87‡E) wind varied between 6 and 16m/s and the predominant direction was southwesterly. The significant wave height and period
varied from 1.9 to 3.7m and 8 to 13 s respectively. Some of the available statistical predictive methods for the determination
of MLD by forced mixing are utilized to test the extent of mechanical mixing within the top layer of water by the local wind
and wave activity. The same is extended to formulate a new empirical relation for gross estimation of effective depth within
which the sound energy is generally trapped during its transmission in the surface duct. The present analysis aiming for estimation
of observed MLD variability (35 to 75 m) using the suggested simple empirical relation reveals that, the mixed layer variability
observed during the experiment depends on both local ocean variability as well as remote forcing as reported earlier. 相似文献
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G. S. Srinivas K. Goverdhan Ch. Narsimhulu T. Seshunarayana 《Journal of the Geological Society of India》2014,84(2):174-180
Multichannel analysis of surface waves (MASW) is a non-destructive seismic prospecting method utilizing Rayleigh waves for imaging and characterizing shallow sub-surface structure. Multichannel analysis of surface waves (MASW) studies were conducted in drift areas of two bridge sites in the hilly terrain of J&K for imaging and characterizing shallow sub-surface structure. The purpose of the present study is to estimate the shear wave velocity (VS) and subsurface structure in four drifts made in a hilly terrain for construction of two bridges. Rayleigh waves are having dispersive properties, travelling along or near the ground surface and are usually characterized by relatively low velocity, low frequency, and high amplitude. The study area comprises of Tertiary group of rocks which are underlain by Siwalik group. The main rock type in the study area is dolomite which has undergone various geological processes like weathering, jointing, fracturing and shearing. MASW data was collected inside four drifts in the mountainous terrain of J&K state which are located on either sides of Chenab river. The data was analyzed by relevant processing software using dispersion and inversion technique. Shear wave velocities were estimated up to 30 m depth. Average shear wave velocity (VS 30) up to top 30m was also computed. It is observed that, VS in the range 400–800 m/s upto 10–15 m corresponding to weathered rock, followed by compact dolomite rock up to the depth of about 30 m with VS in the range 1200–1600 m/s. Some low velocity zones are also identified from these sections which represent shear zones. 相似文献
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古风力是一项重要的古气候指标,其定量恢复是一个难题。风作用于水体产生的波浪大小间接地反映了风力,能够为古风力的恢复提供思路。发育于破浪带和冲浪回流带的破浪沙坝、沿岸沙坝分别记录了破浪和冲浪过程,作者分别介绍利用古湖泊中发育的破浪沙坝和沿岸沙坝进行古波况和古风力恢复的原理和操作流程。(1)根据破浪沙坝的几何形态,可以将其厚度与破浪水深建立函数关系,而破浪水深又由破浪波高决定,因此破浪沙坝厚度可以恢复破浪波高,据此可以进一步根据波浪统计关系恢复有效波高、根据风浪关系恢复风力。此方法依托以下3个参数: 单期次的破浪沙坝厚度、破浪沙坝的基座坡角、古风程。(2)沿岸沙坝厚度近似记录了冲浪的极限高度,后者受控于有效波高,据此也可以恢复有效波高和风力。此方法依托以下5个参数: 单期次的沿岸沙坝厚度、古(平均)水深、古风程、古风向相对于岸线的入射角、组成沿岸沙坝的沉积物粒度。上述2种方法综合性较强,涉及古风向、古地形坡度、风程或盆地直径、古水深等参数的恢复,需要综合运用古地貌恢复、去压实校正、古岸线识别、古水深恢复等技术,并需要结合波浪理论。古湖泊滨岸带地层中保存有大量的滩坝沉积,利用其恢复古波况和古风况具有一定的应用前景,能够有助于更详细地重建沉积盆地的古地理背景。 相似文献
14.
A Field Study of How Wind Waves and Currents May Contribute to the Deterioration of Saltmarsh Fringe
Deltaic landscapes, such as the Mississippi River Delta, are sites of extensive conversion of wetlands to open water, where increased fetch may contribute to erosion of marsh edges, increasing wetland loss. A field experiment conducted during a storm passage tested this process through the observations of wave orbital and current velocities in the fringe zone of a deteriorating saltmarsh in Terrebonne Bay, Louisiana. Incident waves seaward of the marsh edge and wave orbital and current velocities immediate landward of the marsh edge were measured. Through a dimensional analysis, it shows that the current and orbital velocities in the marsh fringe were controlled by the incident waves, inundation depth, submergence ratio, and vegetation density. Similarly, it is shown that the longshore currents in the inundated saltmarsh fringe depended on the local wave-induced momentum flux, vegetation submergence, and vegetation density in the fringe zone. The cross-shore current showed the presence of a return flow in the lower region of the velocity profile. A high correlation between the current direction and the local flow-wave energy ratio as well as the vegetation submergence and density is found, indicating the important role of surface waves in the fringe flow landward of an inundated wetland under storm conditions. The field observations shed light on the potential ecological consequences of increased wave activities in coastal saltmarsh wetlands owing to subsidence, sea level rise, limited sediment supply, increases in wind fetch, and storm intensity. 相似文献
15.
The shear wave velocity (VS) profile based on the dispersive characteristics of fundamental mode of Rayleigh type surface waves indicate underground
stiffness change with depth as well as near surface stiffness. The most important utility of shear wave velocity (VS) is to estimate the liquefaction hazard potential of an area particularly in seismically active region. Rayleigh type surface
waves were utilized to estimate the velocity (VS) of shallow subsurface covering a depth range of 30–50 m employing multichannel analysis of surface waves. The liquefaction
hazard map predicts an approximate percentage of an area that will have surface manifestation of liquefaction during an earth
quake. The surface wave data acquired in an earth quake prone region of Jabalpur (Seismic zone III), India, yields a velocity
(VS) range of 200–750 m/s corresponding to the subsurface depth of 30–35 m. The results were analyzed for possible liquefaction
hazard in the study area and presented here besides the N values. 相似文献
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This study addresses the impact of nonlinear wave evolution on the resulting wave force values on a vertical wall. To this end, the problem of interaction between non-breaking water waves and a vertical wall over constant depth is investigated. The investigation is performed using a two-dimensional wave flume model which is based on the high-order spectral method. Wave generation is simulated at the flume entrance by means of the additional potential concept. This model enables to preserve full dispersivity. Therefore, the model enables to examine the role of nonlinear evolution in the formation of extreme wave force values on a vertical wall for a wide range of water depths. The results for the force exerted on a vertical wall are presented for shallow and deep water conditions. In shallow water, extreme wave force values occur due to the formation of an undular bore. In deep water, extreme wave forces have been obtained as a result of disintegration process of incident wave groups into envelope solitons. Multiple maximum force values have been detected for each of the highest run-up peaks. This phenomenon has been introduced in shallow water conditions and is extended here for deep water conditions. 相似文献