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Ａｍｏｄｅｌｏｆｐｒｏｆｉｌｅｅｖｏｌｕｔｉｏｎｏｎｗａｖｅ－ｄｏｍｉｎａｔｅｄｍｕｄｃｏａｓｔＺｈａｎｇＹｏｎｇ，ＹｕＺｈｉｙｉｎｇａｎｄＪｉｎＬｉｕ（ＲｅｃｅｉｖｅｄＪｕｌｙ２３，１９９６；ａｃｃｅｐｔｅｄＯｃｔｏｂｅｒ．．８，１９９６）Ａｂｓｔ... 相似文献
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H.-R. Kudrass 《Marine Geology》1974,16(1):M9-M12
Direct observation of the transport behaviour of pebbles with attached algae, purposely laid out in the nearshore zone, showed that they can be easily transported by oscillatory water movements, if the ratio weight of pebble)/(wet weight of algae) is less than or equal to about 3. 相似文献
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A portable acoustic tracking system (PATS) has been developed for the Navy to track underwater construction teams in water depths to 200 ft. The tracking system can be deployed and operated by the divers and is intended for use in remote areas and for nearshore survey, maintenance, and construction work. A self-calibrating system provides a geographically justified track for up to eight divers. Diver position coordinates are computed from acoustic measurements at periodic intervals and displayed for control purposes. The positions are also recorded for future reference. 相似文献
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近岸海域的生态系统管理,要求对海洋健康进行综合的评估以及对人工调控进行科学的指导,进而促进可持续发展。本文构建了定量化方法,用于评估当前的和近期的基于生态系统服务的海洋健康。以莱州湾为例的研究结果表明,当前的海洋健康指数分值为0.7856(总分为1.0);通过对负面压力进行不同强度的人工调控,得到近期海洋健康预计的变化范围为0.5551到0.8041。具体地说,本文评估得到当前的海洋健康主要表现为文化服务和供给服务基本优秀,而支持服务和调节服务不够良好。若不对持续增长的压力采取有效的调控措施,该近岸海域生态系统会在近期丧失部分支持服务和调节服务;若负面压力被完全控制,该近岸海域生态系统服务的分类等级会得到小幅提升。另外,应进一步加强对生态系统服务尤其是文化服务和调节服务的宣传教育。本文的分析过程和量化结果,为进一步指导人工调控提供了灵活的工具,有助于海岸带区域的生态系统管理。 相似文献
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Li Congxian 《海洋学报(英文版)》1993,12(4):573-584
-On the basis of the data obtained from the investigations on some rivers in China and Australia, the author discusses the spatial and temporal changes of various portions of fluvial-estuarine system during postglacial sea-level rising in present coastal and deltaic areas. The evolution of a fluvial-estuarine system can be divided into four development stages: early transgression, late transgression, stationary and regression. Early transgression brought about filling-in of the paleo-valley formed in low stand of sea level. In response to late transgression the estuaries were created, during the stationary stage the big swamp was developed. The regression led to estuaries to be filled with sediments and then became deltas. At the same locality the fluvial-estuarine system changed with time. In the transgressive period the lower reach of a river changed into an estuary, and then became nearshore area. In the regressive period the nearshore area changed into an estuary , and then became delta. 相似文献
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Extreme sea conditions in the nearshore zone are required for coastal flood risk analysis and structural design. Many multivariate extreme value methods that have been applied in the past have been limited by assumptions relating to the dependence structure in the extremes. A conditional extremes statistical model overcomes a number of these previous limitations. To apply the method in practice, a Monte Carlo sampling procedure is required whereby large samples of synthetically generated events are simulated. The use of Monte Carlo approaches, in combination with computationally intensive physical process models, can raise significant practical challenges in terms of computation. To overcome these challenges there has been extensive research into the use of meta-models. Meta-models are approximations of computationally intensive physical process models (simulators). They are derived by fitting functions to the outputs from simulators. Due to their simplified representation they are computationally more efficient than the simulators they approximate.Here, a methodology for deriving a large Monte Carlo sample of extreme nearshore sea states is described. The methodology comprises the generation of a large sample of offshore sea conditions using the conditional extremes model. A meta-model of the wave transformation process is then constructed. A clustering algorithm is used to aid the development of the meta-model. The large sample of offshore data is then transformed through to the nearshore using the meta-model. The resulting nearshore sea states can be used for the probabilistic design of structures or flood risk analysis. The application of the methodology to a case study site on the North Coast of Spain is described. 相似文献
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The accurate generation and absorption of water waves in phase-resolving models are critical issues in representing nearshore processes. Here, we present a source function method for combined wave generation and absorption using modified sponge layers. This technique can be easily adapted to a wide variety of systems, and does not require the solution of Green's functions but rather the simpler knowledge of solutions for free waves. These solutions may be linear or nonlinear, regular or irregular, and generated waves can be made arbitrarily accurate through simple selection of sponge layer coefficients. Generating–absorbing sponge layer systems are shown to have a close correspondence to relaxation zones for wave generation if relaxation coefficients are chosen appropriately. 相似文献
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A BFG model for calculation of tidal current and diffusion of pollutants in nearshore areas 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
ＡＢＦＧｍｏｄｅｌｆｏｒｃａｌｃｕｌａｔｉｏｎｏｆｔｉｄａｌｃｕｒｒｅｎｔａｎｄｄｉｆｆｕｓｉｏｎｏｆｐｏｌｌｕｔａｎｔｓｉｎｎｅａｒｓｈｏｒｅａｒｅａｓ￥ＳｈｉＦｅｎｇｙａｎ；ａｎｄＺｈｅｎｇ；Ｌｉａｎｙｕａｎ（ＳｔａｔｅＫｅｙＬａｂｏｒａｔｏｒｙ... 相似文献
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Idealized computational simulations with the nearshore model XBeach were carried out for a series of barred beach configurations in order to quantify the impact of nearshore bars on infragravity swash. Results show that nearshore bar systems reduce infragravity swash energy at the shoreline. The amount of swash reduction was found to correlate with both bar depth and rip width, when a rip channel is present. In order to develop a generalized empirical model for significant infragravity swash for barred beaches, the simulations were used to extend the empirical swash model of Stockdon et al. (2006) to include bar characteristics. The developed empirical model relates significant infragravity swash to incident wave conditions and nearshore bar depth. With respect to Stockdon et al. (2006), this new model improves predictive skill by reducing root-mean-square error by 50% for the computational simulations and by 15% when applied to a range of field data. 相似文献
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《African Journal of Marine Science》2013,35(4):467-480
This study integrates fisheries logbook data with observer and vessel monitoring system (VMS) data in order to assess the accuracy of reported data and to develop high-resolution spatial data suitable for use in local-scale marine spatial planning analyses. Spatial assessments were conducted on five nearshore commercial fisheries to provide baseline information to inform spatial management and conservation planning in Algoa Bay, South Africa. Clear spatial patterns in the distribution of fishing effort were apparent for the linefishery, chokka-squid and inshore demersal trawl sectors. Observer and VMS data confirmed the broad spatial distribution of resource-use patterns of logbook data. Combining these data sources allowed higher-resolution spatial indices of fishing effort to be developed, which are suitable for systematic spatial planning on a local scale and can be used for future spatial management and conservation. 相似文献
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1 .IntroductionAveraging has beenconsidered as anactive ,effective and precise methodinthe studyof fluid dy-namics ,andthe governing macroscopic variables like velocity are the averagingresults inthemselves .Consequently,for a special purpose ,the fluid m… 相似文献
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We link a two-dimension coastal upwelling circulation hydrodynamic-ecosystem (NPZ) model with an individual-based model (IBM) for an intermediate sized (ca. 2.5 mm) copepod capable of diel vertical migration (DVM) at larger sizes. The NPZ model is that of Franks, Wroblewski and Flierl (1986), with the zooplankton state variable parameterized for macrozooplankton. IBM simulations are done with different scenarios for behavioral responses; the interaction of the organisms with the circulation is evaluated by examining growth/development, reproduction, survival and distribution. Since ocean productivity in coastal upwelling systems is greatest nearshore, zooplankton production is favored by nearshore retention. Model results, using an idealized, intermittently wind-forced, upwelling circulation, indicate that non-migrating copepods are flushed from the nearshore system in offshore zonal surface flow; highest population abundances occur offshore, in a region of relatively low food resources. Conversely, migrating copepods interact with the stratified zonal flow within the upwelling system and are retained nearshore when the amplitude of the DVM is sufficient to place the individuals in near-bottom onshore flow during the day. Environmental features, like deep-extending food resources, and physiological controls, like satiation or body size, that permit copepods to remain deeper, or spend more time away from the surface, favor nearshore retention. Diel vertical migration is one mechanism, which may permit animals to exploit favorable habitats located nearshore in upwelling systems. 相似文献
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A.F. Velegrakis M.I. VousdoukasA.M. Vagenas Th. KarambasK. Dimou Th. Zarkadas 《Coastal Engineering》2007
This short contribution reports the results of a field study on the nearshore characteristics of waves generated by both conventional and high speed passenger ferries. The field observations took place in the late summer of 2005, at a beach close to the port of Mytilene (Island of Lesbos, Greece), and involved the visual observation of ship waves, using digital video recordings and image processing techniques. The results showed that passage of the fast ferry was associated with a longer, more complex and energetic nearshore event; this event not only did include higher nearshore waves (up to 0.74 m) and was organised in different wave packets, but it was also an order of magnitude longer (∼ 680 s) than the conventional ferry event. Regarding the effects on beach sediment dynamics, the fast ferry waves were estimated to be very efficient in mobilising the nearshore sediments in contrast to those of the conventional ferry. The fast ferry service appears to generate daily prolonged nearshore events, which contain waves with higher energy than those expected from the normal summer wind wave regime of the area; these events also include some high and very steep waves, which can be particularly erosive. Therefore, fast ferry wakes may have considerable impacts on the seasonal beach sediment dynamics/morphodynamics and the nearshore benthic ecology, as well as they may pose significant risks to bathers, affecting the recreational use of the beaches exposed to fast ferry traffic. Finally, the study has shown that satisfactory field observations of the nearshore characteristics of ship-generated (and wind) waves can be obtained using inshore deployments of calibrated poles, digital video cameras and appropriate image processing algorithms. 相似文献
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沿海滩涂大部分为淤泥质平原海岸带,滩地比较开阔,分布集中,但滩涂地形,地貌,自然植被等具有特殊性,所以其测量也不同于一般的地面测量。本文介绍了沿海滩开发中 水准测计算方法和渠道施工测量,并提出了滩涂水准测量中值得注意的几个问题,对指导当前沿海滩涂开发测量有参考价值。 相似文献
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水下圆形浅滩附近波浪绕射的计算 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
采用波数矢量无旋和波能守恒方程对圆形浅滩附近水域波浪绕射进行了数值计算,计算模型中采用Ｂａｔｔｊｅｓ关系与波数矢量无旋,波能量守恒方程一起联合求解圆形浅滩附近水域波浪折射影响下的波浪要素。本文的数值计算模型对圆形浅滩水域波浪折射绕射现象的验证结果表明,计算所得结果与试验结果是吻合的,数学模型是可靠和合理的,具有实用价值。 相似文献
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缓坡方程是描述近岸波浪运动较好的数学模型之一。在发展的自适应有限元求解缓坡方程的基础上,采用迭代求解的方法,确定波浪相对于边界的入射方向,从而对边界条件进行改进,建立了求解缓坡方程的数值计算模型。典型算例表明,考虑波浪相对于边界的入射角度后,模型可以更好地模拟吸收波浪边界,同时对多向波对双突堤的绕射进行了模拟研究,与试验结果比较表明,所建立的数值计算模型能够适用于多向不规则波传播过程的模拟研究。 相似文献