共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 15 毫秒
1.
The spectral characteristics of shallow water waves with significant wave height more than 2 m based on the data collected along the Indian coast is examined. It was found that the value of Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) parameters (α and γ) increases with significant wave height and mean wave period and decreases with spectral peak period. The estimated average value (0.0027 and 1.63) of the JONSWAP parameters, α and γ were less than the generally recommended values of 0.0081 and 3.3, respectively. By carrying out a multi-regression analysis, an empirical equation is arrived relating the JONSWAP parameters with significant wave height, peak wave period and mean wave period. It was found that the Scott spectra underestimate the maximum spectral energy of high waves. The study shows that the measured wave spectra can be represented by JONSWAP spectra with the JONSWAP parameters estimated based on the equation proposed in this paper. 相似文献
2.
Momoki Koga 《Journal of Oceanography》1984,40(2):105-114
The relation between the intensity of breaking of individual wind-wave crests and parameters of wave size and wave form (e. g., height, period, steepness and skewness) is examined, and the process of change of these parameters is studied in a wind-wave
tank (reference wind speed 15 m sec−1, fetch 16 m). Distributions of the wave form parameters are different for breaking and nonbreaking waves. Fully breaking
waves seem to hold the relationH ∞T
2, whereH is the individual wave height andT is the period. The condition of breaking is not simply determined by the simple criterion of Stokes' limit. Wave height and
steepness of a breaking wave are not always larger than those of a nonbreaking wave. This suggests the existence of an overshooting
phenomenon in the breaking wave. The wave form parameters are found to change cyclically in a statistical sense during the
wave propagation. The period of the cycle in the present case is estimated to be longer than four wave periods. An intermittency
of wave breaking is associated with this cyclic process. Roughly speaking, two or three succeeding breaking-waves sporadically
exist among a series of nonbreaking waves along the fetch. 相似文献
3.
Nicolas Rascle Fabrice Ardhuin Pierre Queffeulou Denis Croiz-Fillon 《Ocean Modelling》2008,25(3-4):154-171
Ocean surface mixing and drift are influenced by the mixed layer depth, buoyancy fluxes and currents below the mixed layer. Drift and mixing are also functions of the surface Stokes drift Uss, volume Stokes transport TS, a wave breaking height scale Hswg, and the flux of energy from waves to ocean turbulence Φoc. Here we describe a global database of these parameters, estimated from a well-validated numerical wave model, that uses traditional forms of the wave generation and dissipation parameterizations, and covers the years 2003–2007. Compared to previous studies, the present work has the advantage of being consistent with the known physical processes that regulate the wave field and the air–sea fluxes, and also consistent with a very large number of in situ and satellite observations of wave parameters. Consequently, some of our estimates differ significantly from previous estimates. In particular, we find that the mean global integral of Φoc is 68 TW, and the yearly mean value of TS is typically 10–30% of the Ekman transport, except in well-defined regions where it can reach 60%. We also have refined our previous estimates of Uss by using a better treatment of the high frequency part of the wave spectrum. In the open ocean, Uss 0.013U10, where U10 is the wind speed at 10 m height. 相似文献
4.
&#x;smail Hakk&#x;
zler 《Ocean Engineering》2008,35(1):17-27
The beach profile and sediment transport are very important factors in the design of coastal structures, and the beach profile is mainly affected by a number of parameters, such as wave height and period, beach slope, and the material properties of the bed. In this study, considering wave height (H0=6.5, 11.5, 16, 20, 23, 26 and 30 cm), wave period (T=1.46 and 2.03 s), beach slope (m=1/10 and 1/15) and mean sediment diameter (d50=0.18, 0.26, 0.33 and 0.40 mm), an experimental investigation of coastal erosion profile (storm profile) was carried out in a wave flume using regular waves, and geometric characteristics of erosion profile were determined by the resultant erosion profile. Dimensional and non-dimensional equations were obtained by using linear and non-linear regression methods through the experimental data and were compared with previously developed equations in the literature. The results have shown that the experimental data fitted well to the proposed equations with respect to the previously developed equations. 相似文献
5.
1988-2002年黄海和渤海风浪后报 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
本文对黄海和渤海风浪开展长期后报实验,时间范围覆盖1988至2002年,并分析相应的区域波候特征。首先,模式输出的月平均有效波高和卫星数据比对一致。其次,我们讨论了气候态月平均有效波高和平均波周期的时空分布特征。有效波高和平均波周期的气候态空间分布都呈现出西北-东南、或由近岸向深水区增加的趋势,这种空间的分布特征和局地的风强迫和水深密切相关。同时,海浪参数的季节变化也较显著。进一步,我们统计分析了风场和有效波高的极值,给出并揭示了黄海和渤海多年一遇有效波高的空间结构,并讨论了有效波高极值和风强迫极值之间的联系。 相似文献
6.
M. A. Srokosz 《Ocean Engineering》1988,15(4)
In this note the effect of changes in sea-state, as measured by the significant wave heigh Hs, on the joint distribution of individual wave height and period are considered. Wave data, obtained from a Waverider buoy during the growth phase of a storm, are used in the analysis. It is found that, by correctly scaling the individual heights and periods, the form of the joint distribution does not depend on Hs, but is dependent on the bandwidth of the spectrum. The results obtained also give some indication of the period of individual, high zero-upcrossing waves. 相似文献
7.
8.
在试验水池中,开展了波浪在岛礁地形上演化问题的研究。首先在实验水池中建立了西太平洋某岛礁地形的模型,然后采用改进的JONSWAP谱,由造波机产生不同周期、波高的随机波浪。试验中观察到了不同类型畸形波生成的过程及不同波面形态的畸形波。对偏度、峰度及水深与畸形波要素Hm/Hs（Hm表示波列中的最大波高, Hs为有效波高）的关系进行了详细的分析,同时,对畸形波波高Hfr与偏度的关也进行了分析。通过对试验结果分析,发现峰度与畸形波要素i>Hm/Hs呈正相关, Hfr增大时相应的偏度也会呈现增大的趋势。此外,水深的变化剧烈时（如斜坡、海山位置）有助于畸形波的发生。 相似文献
9.
10.
The stability of the antifer units used on breakwaters in case of irregular placement 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The primary aim of the study is to experimentally investigate the stability performance of antifer units on the trunk section of breakwaters under the effect of regular and irregular waves in case of irregular placement. The stability performance tests were conducted for different slopes, i.e. cot α=1.25, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, under irregular waves and for cot α=2.5 under regular waves. Hudson’s formula was employed in order to characterize the stability performance of antifer units for the irregular placement technique. Different representative wave height parameters, i.e. Hs, H1/10 and Hmax, were examined to determine the one best characterizing breakwater stability. Furthermore, the effects of wave period and wave steepness on the stability of the breakwater were explored. 相似文献
11.
Extreme value statistics for wave run-up on a natural beach 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
R. A. Holman 《Coastal Engineering》1986,9(6)
Statistics of wave run-up maxima have been calculated for 149 35-minutes data runs from a natural beach. During the experiment incident wave height varied from 0.4 to 4.0 m, incident wave period from 6 to 16 s, and beach face slope from 0.07 to 0.20. Four extreme statistics were calculated; the maximum run-up height during each run, the 2% exceedence level of shoreline elevation, the 2% exceedence height for individual run-up peaks, and the 2% exceedence level for swash height as determined by the zero-upcrossing method. These statistics were best parameterized when normalized by the incident significant wave height and plotted against the Iribarren number, ξ = β/(H/L0)1/2. The swash data (with set-up removed) showed less scatter than total run-up (with set-up included). For Iribarren number greater than 1.5 the run-up was dominated by the incident frequencies, for lower Iribarren number longer period motions dominated the swash. A reasonable value of wave steepness for a fully developed storm sea is 0.025 so that a storm Iribarren number can be estimated as 6.3 times the beach slope. Using this and an offshore design wave height, the included graphs may provide guidance in determining a design run-up height. 相似文献
12.
中国浙江和福建海域台风浪变化特征和趋势 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
基于非结构网格的海浪-海流耦合模式SWAN+ADCIRC(Simulating Waves Nearshore+Advanced Circulation model),模拟了1997—2016年共20年间所有影响浙江和福建海域台风过程期间的海浪过程。利用4个台风过程期间的海浪观测数据对模拟结果进行了验证,模拟结果和实测结果吻合较好。基于该长时间序列台风浪模拟结果,分别分析了浙江和福建海岸带台风浪有效波高极值以及台风浪有效波高大于1m和1.5m的持续时间。结果显示,在福建北部海岸带台风浪有效波高极值和台风浪有效波高大于1m的持续时间(tHs1)有显著增长的趋势。其中,台风浪高极值的增长趋势最大可达0.05m/a,tHs1的增长趋势位于0.54至1.72h/a之间。分析tHs1与ENSO指数的关系发现,福建省南部海域台风浪与ENSO指数有较显著的负相关,浙江省北部海域台风浪与ENSO指数有较显著的正相关,ENSO信号对这两个海域的台风浪有着较显著的影响。 相似文献
13.
Traditional wave steepness s=H/L does not define steep asymmetric waves in a random sea uniquey. Three additional parameters characterising single zero-downcross waves in a time series are crest front steepness, vertical asymmetry factor and horizontal asymmetry factor. Results for steepness and asymmetry from zero-downcross analysis of wave data obtained from full scale measurements in deep water on the Norwegian continental shelf in 58 time series are presented. The analysis demonstrates clearly the asymmetry of both “extreme waves” and the highest waves. The period and height of the highest waves are also given together with their correlation to spectral parameters. The measured maximum wave heights are also compared with predicted values of maximum wave heights showing good agreement. 相似文献
14.
M. R. Gourlay 《Coastal Engineering》1996,27(3-4)
Wave set-up may be significant in determining water levels on coral reefs particularly in microtidal environments and hence is an important factor for the design of reef-top structures and for the stability of reef-top islands. Laboratory experiments have been made on a two dimensional model of an idealised horizontal reef under two different conditions corresponding to a fringing reef (or closed lagoon) situation and a platform reef (or open lagoon) situation. Both wave set-up on the reef-top and the wave-generated flow across the reef were measured and related to wave and tide level conditions.All other factors being the same, wave set-up is greatest at low tide levels whereas wave-generated flow is greater at higher tide levels. The magnitude of the set-up on a platform reef with a wave-generated flow is less than on a fringing reef without any net flow by an amount equal to the velocity head of the flow across the reef. Dimensionless parameters
and q/√gHo3 are found to be functions of relative submergence parameters hr/Ho or
. For values of (
) Ho > 1 waves break on the reef-top and radiation stress theory can be used to calculate set-up. For (
)Ho < 0.7 waves break on the reef-face and set-up is determined by broadcrested weir control at the reef-edge. (The symbols are defined as follows: g is gravitational acceleration; hr is still water depth over horizontal reef-top; Ho is offreef wave height (equivalent deep water value); q is discharge per unit length of reef edge; T is wave period and
is maximum wave set-up on reef-top.) 相似文献
15.
16.
Use of nautical radar as a wave monitoring instrument 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Common marine X-Band radars can be used as a sensor to survey ocean wave fields. The wave field images provided by the radars are sampled and analysed by a wave monitoring system (called WaMoS II) developed by the German research institute GKSS. This measuring system can be mounted on a ship, on offshore stations or at coastal locations. The measurement is based on the backscatter of microwaves from the ocean surface, which is visible as ‘sea clutter' on the radar screen. From this observable sea clutter, a numerical analysis is carried out. The unambiguous directional wave spectrum, the surface currents and sea state parameters such as wave periods, wave lengths, and wave directions can be derived. To provide absolute wave heights, the response of the nautical radar must be calibrated. Similar to the wave height estimations for Synthetic Aperture Radars, the so-called ‘Signal to Noise Ratio' leads to the determination of the significant wave height (HS). In this paper, WaMoS II results are compared with directional buoy data to show the capabilities of nautical microwave radars for sea state measurements. 相似文献
17.
Dynamic pressures on inclined cylinders due to freak waves 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The dynamic pressure distribution around a cylinder tilted along and against the principal wave direction is measured. The cylinder was exposed to the action of random waves in the presence and absence of extreme waves. Six inclinations from the vertical plane, three along and three against the wave direction, were considered. The cylinder in upright position was also studied. The variation of dimensionless peak pressure (pressure maximum/average highest one-third wave height, H1/3) with the relative wave height (maximum wave height/H1/3) for locations facing the wave and at the rear of the cylinder for different angles of inclinations of the cylinder are reported for the two kinds of waves mentioned earlier. The statistical properties of the different asymmetries in the pressure traces are also discussed. 相似文献
18.
Jean-Baptiste Saulnier Alain Clément Teresa Pontes Pierpaolo Ricci 《Ocean Engineering》2011,38(1):130-147
To date the estimation of long-term wave energy production at a given deployment site has commonly been limited to a consideration of the significant wave height Hs and mean energy period Te. This paper addresses the sensitivity of power production from wave energy converters to the wave groupiness and spectral bandwidth of sea states. Linear and non-linear systems are implemented to simulate the response of converters equipped with realistic power take-off devices in real sea states. It is shown in particular that, when the converters are not much sensitive to wave directionality, the bandwidth characteristic is appropriate to complete the set of overall wave parameters describing the sea state for the purpose of estimating wave energy production. 相似文献
19.
Sverre Haver 《Applied Ocean Research》1985,7(2):85-92
The wave climate off northern Norway is considered and the investigation is based on wave measurements made at Tromsøflaket by means of a waverider buoy during the years 1977–1981. Data quality of waverider measurements is briefly commented upon; however, more emphasis is given to an evaluation of the long-term representativity of the actual measuring period and to a procedure accounting approximately for a lack of representativity. The wave climate is presented in terms of a smoothed joint probability density function of the significant wave height, Hs, and the spectral peak period, Tp. Based on this distribution a consistent design curve in the Hs, Tp space is established. 相似文献
20.
This paper deals with the long-term modelling of high sea waves. The solution is given for the return period of sea storms during which an arbitrary chosen number of waves, with crest-to-trough heights exceeding a fixed threshold, occur. This return period is derived starting from the Equivalent Triangular Storm (ETS) model, which associates a triangle to each actual storm and thus represents a significant wave height time series at a fixed location by means of a sequence of triangular storms. The short-term statistics is then applied to investigate the occurrence of large crest-to-trough wave heights during a given storm. Finally, by combining the statistical distribution of significant wave heights, the ETS model and the short-term wave statistics, the solution is given for the return periods RN and RN of a sea storm in which N or at least N waves higher than a fixed threshold occur. The values of RN are then calculated, starting from data of two buoys moored in the Pacific Ocean and in the Mediterranean Sea. 相似文献