共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 484 毫秒
1.
微尺度滑动平均方法计算海浪谱奇阶矩的公式 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Glazman提出了一种计算海浪谱高阶谱矩的微尺度平均方法,但是,他利用随机过程理论导出的计算偶阶矩的公式和参照偶阶矩结论定义的奇阶矩计算公式之间存在着内在的不一致性.本文在Glazman工作的基础上根据随机过程理论推导了“微尺度平均方法”计算奇阶谱矩的公式,纠正了他的错误.上述结论随即应用于讨论破碎对波面水质点水平速度分布的影响.通过破碎的加速度判据考虑了破碎对速度分布的限制,给出了未破碎波面上水质点水平速度的的统计分布的初步结果.该分布取决于谱宽度参数及白浪覆盖率的大小,当白浪覆盖率较大时明显偏离正态分布. 相似文献
2.
为了验证波谱仪反演二维海浪谱的功能,根据海浪波谱仪的信号形成机制,总结了机载波谱仪反演海浪的流程。利用机载波谱仪回波数据,通过自相关和互相关两种功率谱估计方法,反演了二维海浪谱。最后通过与浮标测量的二维海浪谱进行对比,验证了该机载波谱仪探测二维海浪谱的有效性。结果表明,无论采用自相关函数还是互相关函数进行功率谱估计,得到的主波波长和有效波高与实际二维海浪谱基本一致。互相关函数法得到的交叉谱能去除180°模糊现象,其在计算有效波高时相对于自相关函数会稍微偏小。在计算斜率方差时可以采用5°~12°入射角范围的后向散射系数进行公式拟合,因此定标与否并不影响最后的二维海浪谱结果,未来星载波谱仪只有靠多波束联合才能实现。 相似文献
3.
在实际海况中,由于波浪组分方向不同,使海浪常表现为三维短峰波,与二维长峰波相比,有诸多异同特征。为了研究三维畸形波生成和演化过程中异常大波的外部特征以及大波间的关联,本文采用色散和方向聚焦方法在物理水池中模拟了短峰畸形波的整个生成和演化过程。研究结果表明,生成和演化过程中出现的异常大波沿着方向分布函数峰值方向演化,具有一定程度“对称”特征;根据异常大波的特征参数可将该过程分成3～4个典型的阶段,这意味着可以根据异常大波的特征参数判断其所处阶段及预测其演化趋势;三维畸形波生成和演化过程可能会跳过“波群”或者“深谷”阶段,与二维畸形波相比,时-空范围较小,这意味着在三维波浪场中,与畸形波相关的深谷和波群的发生概率较低。 相似文献
4.
无论是对于各种涉海水工建筑物的设计还是对于它们的防护而言,最大波高的预测都是非常重要的工作。目前常用的海浪预报模式多以相位平均模型为主,其能直接给出的计算结果是海浪谱,因此基于海浪谱给出合理的最大波高估算具有重要的意义。前人对波陡、谱宽等参数对最大波高公式的影响都有了较为清楚的认知,然而相关研究大多围绕单峰谱开展,尚没有考虑包括双峰谱在内的海浪谱型最大波高公式的影响。本文首先探讨了海浪谱对最大波高的影响特性,进而提出了海浪谱谱型的参数化定义,最后给出了考虑谱型因子的最大波高公式。 相似文献
5.
海浪是影响舰船行进和结构设计的最核心的环境要素。海浪参数的统计分析是建立舰船环境适应性长期预测模型的基础。对1993-2011年沿海台站、浮标观测资料,高度计观测资料和船舶报观测资料进行双线性插值,给出了海浪波高的分析场。利用波高分析场对WAVEWATCHIII(WW3)模拟结果进行最优插值同化。给出了海浪统计玫瑰图、极端海浪统计参数和海浪累年二维极值海浪谱等与舰船耐波性有关的海浪统计参数,分析了中国近海的波浪特征。 相似文献
6.
7.
表面更新理论给出气体交换速率k与海面附近的海水湍动能耗散率呈1/4次方关系,而波浪能量耗散率Dt与湍动能耗散率密切相关。本文利用两种海浪谱耗散模型——Hasselmann模型和Phillips模型,结合深水浮标海浪频谱的观测数据计算了波浪能量耗散率。以前人给出的k与海面上10m高度处的风速U10关系式的平均值为标准,采用最小二乘的方法得到了k与Dt的经验关系。在此基础上,进一步利用SWAN和WAVEWATCHIII海浪数值模式计算了理想深水情况下的波浪能量耗散率,探讨了由海浪模式计算的波浪能量耗散率与气体交换速率之间的关系。结果表明,与SWAN模式相比,WAVEWATCHIII海浪数值模式结果与实际观测更为接近。 相似文献
8.
9.
广东阳西近岸海域海浪谱分析 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
根据广东阳西近岸海域测站1a实测共4 949组的原始随机波面观测记录,用自相关函数法和快速傅里叶变换法进行谱估计,得到波谱各特征参数,并与实测波面统计的特征值进行比较,经分析,选用快速傅里叶变换法估计研究海域的实测谱,对粗谱进行平滑和分析,筛选出研究海域海浪的样本谱498个,将平滑后的谱形无维量化,得到广东阳西海域海浪无维量平均谱曲线并求出对应谱参数,计算得到谱峰频率f0为0.121,特征频率μ10、μ20分别为1.929、2.733,谱宽度ε、ν为0.83、1.39.采用5种理论频谱模式对实测无维量谱进行拟合,根据拟合结果推荐γ=1.920 5的JONSWAP谱或者b=5.7、δ=6.0、k=0.5的莆田谱作为广东阳西近岸海域的海浪谱型,对该海区的工程建设、海浪预报警报和海浪理论研究具有较好的参考作用,对我国其他类似海域也有一定的参考价值. 相似文献
10.
11.
不规则波作用下的船舶撞击作用 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：2
随着波谱理论研究的发展,各种海工结构及船舶的荷载及其内力分析也日趋应用不规则波的计算方法。目前对于外海码头在波浪作用下的船舶撞击荷载还应用规则波的研究方法,对其应用不规则波分析方法的途径以及在考虑波谱作用后会有怎样的结果等问题目前还较少研究。本文试图对此问题进行初步的分析。 相似文献
12.
Two commonly used methods of simulating random time series, given a target power spectrum, are discussed. Wave group statistics, such as the mean length of runs of high waves, produced by the different simulation schemes are compared. The target spectra used are obtained from ocean measurements, and cover a wide range of ocean conditions. For a sufficiently large number of spectral components, no significant differences are found in the wave group statistics produced by the two simulation techniques. 相似文献
13.
Noriyuki Iwata 《Journal of Oceanography》1971,27(3):102-108
Two-dimensional ocean wave spectrum developing under the atmospheric surface pressure fluctuations is linearly correlated with that of wind pressure itself, so that angular distribution of energy of ocean surface waves can be determined by directional properties of surface pressure fluctuations with the same frequency to the surface wave.From empirically determined spectral formula of the atmospheric surface pressure fluctuations the coefficients of Fourier series expanded around mean direction of wind are analytically integrated, from which r.m.s. angular distribution, spectral peakedness and long-crestedness are calculated, compared with previously proposed empirical formulae and observations carried out by ultrasonic current meter. 相似文献
14.
James Hamilton 《Applied Ocean Research》1980,2(4):147-153
In this paper a representation is obtained of the first Fourier component of the drag F given by: FQ{Q·Q}1/2
The relative velocity Q is assumed to consist of a mean current plus a single Fourier component, and may come from all directions during the course of a cycle. The expression is shown to agree well with the usual two-dimensional expressions, (when the relative velocity is always in one direction) and also with the exact expression in the three-dimensional case. A good representation of the drag in this manner is important if the quasi-linear spectral approach is to be used in the evaluation of the response of a three-dimensional compliant structure to ocean waves. 相似文献
15.
水下GPS定位是近几年发展起来的高新技术.承载GPS接收机的海上浮标由于受海浪的影响,使得GPS接收信号附加了海浪信息,最终影响到水下目标的精确定位.针对海浪影响水下GPS定位精度现状,提出基于样条函数的数据分频处理方法,从而有效地分离海浪引起的长周期性漂移误差和短周期性随机误差,提高水下GPS定位精度.通过对实测数据的处理,证明了该方法的有效性. 相似文献
16.
This is a Part II of a paper of nonlinearities of wind waves in the deep open ocean. As shown in Part I, bound waves in deep sea are detectable by extracting secondorder Doppler spectra from the Doppler spectra of HF (high-frequency) radio waves scattered from the sea surface. There is a remarkable agreement between the calculated and measured Doppler spectra, considering the noise levels in measured Doppler spectra and the uncertainties in directional properties. The theoretical expression for bound waves is thus verified. Furthermore, the upper limit in calculating the Doppler spectra for the second-order approximation is presented from field observations, although we cannot conclude that it is equivalent to the limitation of the second-order bound wave theory. It is shown that analysis of radio wave scattering by the sea surface is one useful means of understanding the nonlinear properties of ocean waves. 相似文献
17.
Ocean surface currents can be estimated, over a large coastal area, by utilizing the backscatter of high frequency (HF) radar waves from ocean gravity waves. Although the overall backscatter mechanism is complicated, the surface current information is contained within the spectral characteristics of two dominant Bragg components. The accuracy of the current estimate, following the usual FFT-based spectral estimate, is limited by the frequency resolution of the FFT and the time-varying characteristics of the Bragg components. This paper describes a high resolution parametric estimation of the ocean currents based on a recently proposed technique for analyzing time-varying signals. This technique, together with a time-domain ocean clutter model, allows all the Bragg signal information to be extracted from the two dominant eigenvalues and eigenvectors of a matrix constructed from the radar data. Using signals from an operational coastal surveillance radar, current estimates made using this technique are compared with those estimated by the conventional FFT-based method 相似文献
18.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(6):497-511
A weakly non-linear Boussinesq model with a slot-type shoreline boundary is used to simulate swash oscillations on beaches. Numerical simulations of swash were compared with laboratory measurements and in general good agreement found (less than 15% root-mean-square error of surface elevation except in regular waves). A series of numerical experiments on shoreline movement were then performed for a range of beach slopes and incident wave conditions. The resulting swash characteristics are then discussed in terms of their physical nature and spectral properties. On steep slopes, both individual bores and infragravity waves are equally significant in driving the swash while infragravity waves alone drive them on mild slopes. Swash excursions on any given slope are found to be highest when individual bores from a partially saturated surf zone ride on top of low-frequency waves. This is confirmed by the relationship found between swash excursion and wave groupiness in the surf zone. Swash excursions increase with increasing incident wave energy, even in fully saturated surf zones. However, a poor correlation is found between swash excursion and the surf similarity parameter due to the involvement of infragravity wave energy in the swash. 相似文献
19.
P. Izquierdo C. Guedes Soares J. C. Nieto Borge G. R. Rodríguez 《Ocean Engineering》2004,31(17-18):2209-2225
Nautical radar and scalar buoy measurements of ocean wind generated waves have been analysed to compare the spectral parameters estimated from both sensors. The time series of different sea-state parameters and the differences and ratios of the values obtained from radar and buoy data using different analysis methods are compared. It has been observed that main differences between the sea-state parameters derived by using measurements obtained from both sensors result both from device characteristics and from the method of spectral estimation. In particular, it is shown that the Nyquist frequency has an important effect on the value of the sea-state parameters depending on spectral moments of order higher than zero. 相似文献
20.
This is a Part I of a paper of nonlinearities of wind waves in the deep open ocean. First, considerations are given in order to verify the theoretical expression for bound waves from observed data. We compare the contribution of bound waves and double Bragg scattering to the second-order scattering, and we show that the contribution of bound waves is larger, and that bound waves can be detected by measuring the Doppler spectra of HF (high-frequency) radio wave scattering from the sea surface. Moreover, if the theory of the HF radio wave scattering from the sea surface is verified, so is the second-order perturbation theory for bound waves. Then, the contributions of bound waves to ocean wave spectra are investigated on the basis of the nonlinear theory. The bound waves are shown to modify frequency spectra and wave directional distributions at higher frequencies, and it is shown that although the modifications of frequency spectra are smaller for a two-dimensional field case than for a one-dimensional field case, they are not negligible at higher frequencies. On the other hand, the modifications of wave directional distributions are shown to be significant at higher frequencies. These discussions become significant only when bound wave predictions are verified in the open ocean. Consequently, it is shown that nonlinearities of water waves are important in considering both radio wave scattering from the sea surface and the detailed structures of ocean wave spectra at high frequencies. 相似文献