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1.
Disintegration of linear edge waves 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
It is demonstrated that offshore wavenumbers of edge waves change from imaginary wavenumbers in deep water to real wavenumbers in shallow water. This finding indicates that edge waves in the offshore direction exist as evanescent waves in deep water and as propagating waves in shallow water. Since evanescent waves can stably exist in a limited region while propagating waves cannot, energy should be released from nearshore regions. In the present study, the instability region is predicted based on both the full water wave solution and the shallow-water wave approximation. 相似文献
2.
LI Ruijie WANG Houjie
Dr. Associate Professor Engineering College of Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao P. R. China
Ph. D. Candidate Engineering College of Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao P. R. China 《中国海洋工程》1999,(3)
Nonlinear effect is of importance to waves propagating from deep water to shallow water.Thenon-linearity of waves is widely discussed due to its high precision in application.But there are still someproblems in dealing with the nonlinear waves in practice.In this paper,a modified form of mild-slope equa-tion with weakly nonlinear effect is derived by use of the nonlinear dispersion relation and the steady mild-slope equation containing energy dissipation.The modified form of mild-slope equation is convenient to solvenonlinear effect of waves.The model is tested against the laboratory measurement for the case of a submergedelliptical shoal on a slope beach given by Berkhoff et al,The present numerical results are also comparedwith those obtained through linear wave theory.Better agreement is obtained as the modified mild-slope e-quation is employed.And the modified mild-slope equation can reasonably simulate the weakly nonlinear ef-fect of wave propagation from deep water to coast. 相似文献
3.
M. Rahman 《Applied Ocean Research》1984,6(2):90-100
An exact second order theory has been formulated in this paper to calculate the wave forces on offshore structures. Lighthill's method for deep water waves has been extended to shallow water waves. Exact expression for linear velocity potential applicable to the circular cylindrical strcutures for shallow water waves have been used in these calculations. These results have been verified with those obtained by direct perturbation technique reported recently by Rahman and Heaps. It is interesting to note that both the methods yield identical results. 相似文献
4.
The energy density, the energy flux, the set-down, the radiation stress, and some wave energy velocities have been derived correct to fourth order in wave steepness for waves on a vorticity-free current. The energy flux and the set-down have been used for shoaling predictions for finite amplitude waves with and without a net volume flux. The results with a zero volume flux are compared with more accurate shoaling predictions showing rather good accordance, except for large steepnesses. This also applies to the deep water wave energy transport velocity. The results with a net volume flux show that the steepness of the waves reduces the influence of this flux on the wave evolution. Some problems in connection with the orders in Stokes waves are discussed, among others concerning the dispersion relation and the orders of integral properties. Bed shear and accompanying dissipation is neglected. 相似文献
5.
A nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NSE) describing packets of weakly nonlinear waves in an inhomogeneously vortical infinitely deep fluid has been derived. The vorticity is assumed to be an arbitrary function of Lagrangian coordinates and quadratic in the small parameter proportional to the wave steepness. It is shown that the modulational instability criteria for the weakly vortical waves and potential Stokes waves on deep water coincide. The effect of vorticity manifests itself in a shift of the wavenumber of high-frequency filling. A special case of Gerstner waves with a zero coefficient at the nonlinear term in the NSE is noted. 相似文献
6.
变浅作用下浅水海浪谱的计算 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
深水海浪向近岸传播过程中,由于变浅作用,其波面高度分布,波谱都发生了变化。本文基于非线性系统的输出和输入间亦存在转换关系,通过波面高度分布函数建立了深水正态海浪过程作为输入和浅水偏态海浪过程作为输出之间的非线性转换关系,导出了深、浅水谱间的理论关系。在假定能通量不变的条件下,提出了一种由已知深水谱和波面偏度计算二维海浪变浅作用下的浅水谱的方法,并对其进行了讨论和检验。 相似文献
7.
Numerical simulations of gravity waves with high-order nonlinearities in two-dimensional domain are performed by using the pseudo spectral method. High-order nonlinearities more than third order excite apparently chaotic evolutions of the Fourier energy in deep water random waves. The high-order nonlinearities increase kurtosis, wave height distribution and Hmax/H1/3 in deep water and decrease these wave statistics in shallow water. Moreover, they can generate a single extreme high wave with an outstanding crest height in deep water. High-order nonlinearities (more than third order) can be regarded as one cause of freak waves in deep water. 相似文献
8.
考虑风能输入的抛物型缓坡方程 总被引：3，自引：2，他引：1
在Radder和Kirby发展的波浪折射绕射缓坡方程抛物型模型基础上,对这种模型进行了改进,改进后的模型除可以考虑波浪传播过程中的底摩阻损耗、非线性作用外,加入了风能输入对波浪传播的影响。基于风能输入项的波浪模型数值计算结果表明,在纯风浪情况下的计算结果与传统的风浪计算方法结果一致,在波浪传播过程中由于风的作用,将导致波高比无风作用下计算的波高大。 相似文献
9.
Based on the Hamiltonian formulation of water waves, using Hamiltonian consistent modelling methods, we derive higher order Hamiltonian equations by Taylor expansions of the potential and the vertical velocity around the still water level. The polynomial expansion in wave height is mixed with pseudo-differential operators that preserve the exact dispersion relation. The consistent approximate equations have inherited the Hamiltonian structure and give exact conservation of the approximate energy. In order to deal with breaking waves, we extend the eddy-viscosity model of Kennedy et al. (2000) to be applicable for fully dispersive equations. As breaking trigger mechanism we use a kinematic criterion based on the quotient of horizontal fluid velocity at the crest and the crest speed. The performance is illustrated by comparing simulations with experimental data for an irregular breaking wave with a peak period of 12 s above deep water and for a bathymetry induced periodic wave plunging breaker over a trapezoidal bar. The comparisons show that the higher order models perform quite well; the extension with the breaking wave mechanism improves the simulations significantly. 相似文献
10.
本研究基于中国科学院沈阳自动化研究所自主研发的水下滑翔机在热带东太平洋观测获取的连续剖面温盐数据,并通过与多套不同数据的比测,证实国产水下滑翔机观测的温盐数据准确可靠,未来可大范围应用于深海大洋。观测结果首次发现该海域北太平洋中央水（NPCW）（50~100 m）的60~80 m层分布着中间层低盐水,分析认为该低盐水来源于水团下方的加利福尼亚流系水（CCS）,中间层低盐水形成的动力机制主要受跃层附近的内波控制,并与内波强度密切相关,同时受上层（20~60 m）障碍层的影响,该中间层低盐水仅仅出现在60~80 m。本研究发现内波与障碍层能够通过影响动能与热能的传输进而促进水团新结构的形成,相关成果丰富了内波与障碍层对上层海洋响应的研究,具有重要的科学价值。 相似文献
11.
When waves propagate from deep water to shallow water, wave heights and steepness increase and then waves roll back and break. This phenomenon is called surf. Currently, the present statistical calcula... 相似文献
12.
Wave interaction with partially immersed twin vertical barriers 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
The wave transmission, reflection and energy dissipation characteristics of partially immersed twin vertical barriers and the water surface fluctuations in between the barriers were studied using physical models. Regular and random waves of wide ranges of wave heights and periods, nine different immersions of the barriers and a constant water depth were used for the investigation. The coefficient of transmission, and the coefficient of reflection were obtained from the measurements and coefficient of energy dissipation is estimated using the law of conservation of energy. It is found in general that the twin barrier is better in reducing the coefficient of transmission and increasing the coefficient of dissipation in random waves than with the regular waves, especially for increasing incident wave energy levels. The coefficient of transmission reduces significantly with the increased relative water depth. Increase of relative water depth from 0.09 to 0.45 resulted in reduction of transmission coefficient from 0.65 to 0.05. It is possible to achieve a transmission coefficient less than 0.20 for six immersion configurations with relative depth of immersions of the barrier less than (0.28, 0.43), especially in the region closer to deep water conditions. Coefficient of dissipation ranging from 0.65 to 0.85 can be obtained due to random wave interaction. 相似文献
13.
Johan N. Hartnack 《Ocean Engineering》2000,27(4):831
Small amplitude water waves propagating in a medium with a steady non-uniform current are investigated. The non-uniform current is obtained by up- or downwelling through the horizontal bed. A new locally valid velocity potential correct to the second order is derived describing the combined wave–current motion. From this solution expressions for the local evolution of the wave amplitude and the wave number are extracted. These expressions are compared with the results found using the principle of wave action conservation and the linear dispersion relation, and good agreement is found at small distances compared to the wavelength. Unlike earlier works there is no restriction to deep water. The results valid for deep water are found as a special case of the general solution and agree with the solution found by Longuet-Higgins, M.S. and Stewart, R.W. (1961) The changes in amplitude of short gravity waves on steady non-uniform currents. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 10(4), 529–549. Furthermore, it is shown that the principle of wave action conservation in fact holds for waves propagating in a medium with a steady non-uniform current maintained by up-/downwelling also on finite depth. 相似文献
14.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(2-3):149-156
Wave setup can contribute significantly to elevated water levels during severe storms. In Florida we have found that wave setup can be 30% to 60% of the total 100-year storm surge. In areas with relatively narrow continental shelves, such as many locations along the Pacific Coast of the United States, wave setup can be an even larger proportionate contributor of anomalous water levels during major storms. Wave setup can be considered as comprising two components, with the first being the well-known static wave setup resulting from the transfer of breaking wave momentum to the water column. The second, oscillating component, is a result of nonlinear transfer of energy and momentum from the primary (linear) spectrum to waves with length and time scales on the order of the wave groups.Static wave setup is the focus of this paper with emphasis on effects due to internal or surface forces that act on the wave system and cause both dissipation of wave energy and transfer of momentum. In particular, the effects of wave damping by vegetation and bottom friction are considered. Linear wave theory is applied to illustrate these effects and, for shallow water waves, the setup is reduced by two-thirds the amount that would occur if the same amount of energy dissipation occurred in the absence of forces. Effects of nonlinear waves are then considered and it is found, for a shallow water wave of approximately one-half breaking height, that a wave setdown rather than setup occurs due to damping by vegetation and bottom friction.The problem of wave setup as waves propagate through vegetation was stimulated by studies to establish hazard zones associated with 100-year storm events along the shorelines of the United States. These storms can generate elevated water levels exceeding 4 to 6 m and can result in overland wave propagation. As these waves propagate through vegetation and damp, the question arose as to the contribution of this process to elevated mean water levels through additional wave setup. 相似文献
15.
16.
Numerical simulation and mechanism analysis of freak waves 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
A numerical wave model based on the modified fourth-order nonlinear Schroe dinger equation(mNLSE) in deep water was developed to simulate the formation of freak waves and a standard split-step,pseudo-spectral method was used to solve the equation.The validation of the model is firstly verified,then the simulation of freak waves was performed by changing sideband conditions,and the variation of wave energy was also analyzed in the evolution.The results indicate that Benjamin-Feir instability(sideband instability) is an important mechanism for freak wave formation. 相似文献
17.
双曲余弦海脊上海啸俘获波的解析与数值研究 总被引：4，自引：3，他引：1
海啸能被大洋海脊引导以俘获波的形式沿其传播上万千米,且因其特殊的运动方式,携带巨大能量影响远场地区的港口,严重威胁海岸安全。本文首先基于线性浅水方程,推导了双曲余弦平方海脊上俘获波的波面解,其为μ阶ν次的连带勒让德函数的第一类解和第二类解的组合。进一步推导出其对应的频散关系,其中对于确定的频率ω,存在无穷多个波数ky与之对应。采用MIKE21-BW模型,模拟了产生于海脊脊顶处的海啸在理想双曲余弦平方海脊上的传播变形过程。结果表明,小部分能量以自由先驱波进行传播,海啸波的波能大部分被海脊俘获。海脊俘获波沿着海脊方向为行进波,随着海啸波传播时间的增加,波浪在沿着海脊方向的延展范围也逐渐增大,波高逐渐减小、波的个数逐渐增加。俘获波能量主要由不同频率以相同速度传播的具有孤立波特性的波浪成分和能量主要集中在特定频率范围内的波浪成分组成。 相似文献
18.
Jae-Hun Park Kathleen A. Donohue D. Randolph Watts Luc Rainville 《Journal of Oceanography》2010,66(5):709-717
The distribution of deep near-inertial waves (NIWs) is investigated using data mainly from an array of 46 near-bottom acoustic
current meter sensors spanning a 600 km × 600 km region as part of the Kuroshio Extension System Study during 2004–2006. The
deep NIW distribution is interpreted in the context of both upper-layer and near-bottom mapped circulations. The wintertime-mean
mixed-layer NIW energy input, modeled from observed wind stress, has the same range of values north and south of the Kuroshio
Extension in this region. Yet, the wintertime-mean deep NIW energy distribution reveals a sharp factor-of-5 decrease from
north to south of the Kuroshio jet. This direct observational evidence shows that the Kuroshio Extension blocks the equatorward
propagation of NIWs. The NIW energy that does reach the sea floor within the subset of wintertime observations in the subtropical
gyre arrives with patchy spatial and temporal distribution. Elevated NIW energy in deep water is associated with anticyclones
in the deep barotropic flow and unassociated with upper layer eddies. 相似文献
19.
An empirical modification to the Airy equation for wave celerity reduces to the expression for solitary waves in shallow water whilst retaining its usual form for deep water. The equation yields celerities in reasonable agreement with those for cnoidal waves in intermediate water depths. In this aspect, it is similar to the work described by Le Roux [Le Roux, J.P., 2007. A function to determine wavelength from deep into shallow water based on the length of the cnoidal wave at breaking. Coastal Engineering 54, 770–774]. The empirical modification has been widely applied in computer programs over the past 30 years. 相似文献
20.
以琼东南深海三维地震资料为例,全面分析深海地震资料特点,深入分析深海干扰波的类型和特点。针对不同类型的干扰波,采用不同的处理方法,开展针对深海地震资料叠前去噪处理技术研究。通过研究深海地震多次波压制、水鸟干扰压制、涌浪干扰和异常振幅压制等处理方法,总结出针对深海地震资料的叠前去噪技术,为今后的深海地震资料处理工作奠定了技术基础。 相似文献