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1.
Hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the nearshore zone were modeled numerically taking into account turbulent unsteady flow. The flow field was computed using the Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations with a k–ε turbulence closure model, while the free surface was tracked using the Volume-Of-Fluid technique. This hydrodynamical model was supplemented with a cross-shore sediment transport formula to calculate profile changes and sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Based on the numerical solutions, flow characteristics and the effects of breaking waves on sediment transport were studied. The main characteristic of breaking waves, i.e. the instantaneous sediment transport rate, was investigated numerically, as was the spatial distribution of time-averaged sediment transport rates for different grain sizes. The analysis included an evaluation of different values of the wave friction factor and an empirical constant characterizing the uprush and backwash. It was found that the uprush induces a larger instantaneous transport rate than the backwash, indicating that the uprush is more important for sediment transport than the backwash. The results of the present model are in reasonable agreement with other numerical and physical models of nearshore hydrodynamics. The model was found to predict well cross-shore sediment transport and thus it provides a tool for predicting beach morphology change. 相似文献
2.
A three-dimensional finite-difference hydrodynamic model has been developed using σ-coordinate for the vertical dimension. An explicit scheme for temporal integration and a staggered grid for spatial discretization have been adopted. The model has been tested against analytical or literature cases for wind and tide induced circulation. Results are in good agreement both with analytical solutions under idealised conditions and with results from the model of Shankar et al. (1996). 相似文献
3.
Numerical ocean modelling is computationally very demanding. Traditionally, the hydrostatic approximation has been applied to reduce the computational burden. This approximation is valid in large scale studies with coarse grid resolution. With faster computers and gradually smaller grid sizes, we may expect that more studies will be performed with non-hydrostatic ocean models. In recent papers several methods for including non-hydrostatic pressure in σ-coordinate models have been suggested. In this paper the sensitivity of the non-hydrostatic pressure field, the velocity fields, and the density fields to changes in the method for computing non-hydrostatic pressure in σ-coordinate ocean models is addressed.The first test case used involves the propagation and breaking of an internal wave at an incline in a tank. The other test case concerns tidally driven flow over a sill in a stratified fjord. The results from our numerical exercises suggest that the velocity and density fields are very robust to the model choices investigated here. The differences between the model results are of the same order as the uncertainty due to the internal pressure gradient error, and they are smaller than an estimate of the uncertainty due to subgrid scale closure. 相似文献
4.
Simple prediction methods are proposed to estimate the wave induced pressures on smooth impermeable seawalls. Based on the physics of the wave structure interaction, the sloped seawall is divided into a total of five zones (zones 1, 2 and 3 during run-up (corresponding pressures are called as positive pressures) and zones 4 and 5 during run-down (corresponding pressures are called negative pressures)) (Fig. 1). Zone 1 (0<z<d−Hi/2), where the wave pressure is governed by the partial reflection and phase shift; Zone 2 (d−Hi/2<z<d), where the effect of wave breaking and turbulence is significant; Zone 3 (d<z<Run-up height), where the pressure is induced by the run-up water; Zone 4 (Run-down<z<d), where the wave pressure is caused by the run-down effect and Zone 5 (0<z<d-Run down), where the negative wave pressures are due to partial reflection and phase shift effects. Here d is the water depth at the toe of the seawall, Hi is the incident wave height and z is the vertical elevation with toe of the seawall as origin and z is positive upward. For wave pressure prediction in zones 1 and 5, the empirical formula proposed by Ahrens et al. (1993) to estimate the wave reflection and Sutherland and Donoghue's recommendations (1998) for the estimation of phase shift of the waves caused by the sloped structures are used. Multiple regression analysis is carried out on the measured pressure data and empirical formulas are proposed for zones 2, 3 and 4. The recommendations of Van der Meer and Breteler (1990) and Schüttrumpf et al. (1994) for the prediction of wave run-down are used for pressure prediction at zone 4. Comparison of the proposed prediction formulas with the experimental results reveal that the prediction methods are good enough for practical purposes. The present study also shows a strong relation between wave reflection, wave run-up, wave run-down and phase shift of waves on wave pressures on the seawalls. 相似文献
5.
The unsteady flow past a circular cylinder which starts translating and transversely oscillating from rest in a viscous fluid is investigated at a Reynolds numbers of R=103 and at a Strouhal number of π/4 and for the maximum oscillatory to translational velocity ratios between 0.1 and 1.0. This study is based on numerical solutions of the two-dimensional unsteady Navier–Stokes equations. The object of the study is to examine the effect of increase of velocity ratio on the near-wake structure as well as the hydrodynamic forces acting on the cylinder. For all velocity rates a periodic structure of vortex evaluation and shedding develops which is repeated exactly as time advances. Vortex dynamics close behind the body are affected by changing acceleration of the cylinder and a changeover from one mode to a different mode of vortex formation is observed with increase in velocity ratio. A comparison of the present results with the impulsively started translating case has been included to illustrate the effect of velocity ratio on drag at small values of velocity ratio. 相似文献
6.
The wave transmission characteristics and wave induced pressures on twin plate breakwater are investigated experimentally in regular and random waves.A total of twenty pressure transducers are fixed on four surfaces of twin plate to measure the wave induced dynamic pressures.The spatial distribution of dynamic wave pressure is given along the surface of the twin plate.The uplift wave force obtained by integrating the hydrodynamic pressure along the structure is presented.Discussed are the influence of different incident wave parameters including the relative plate width B /L,relative wave height /i H a and relative submergence depth s /a on the non-dimensional dynamic wave pressures and total wave forces.From the investigation,it is found that the optimum transmission coefficient,t K occurs around B /L 0.41 ~ 0.43,and the twin plate breakwater is more effective in different water depths.The maximum of pressure ratio decreases from 1.8 to 1.1 when the relative submergence depth of top plate is increased from 0.8to +0.8. 相似文献
7.
In this paper, a numerical wave model based on the incompressible Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) and k–ε equations is used to estimate the impact of a solitary wave on an idealized beachfront house located at different elevations on a plane beach. The locations of the free surface are reconstructed by volume of fluid (VOF) method. The model is satisfactorily tested against the experimental data of wave runup, and the analytical solution of wave forces on vertical walls. The time histories of wave profiles, forces, and overturning moments on the idealized house are demonstrated and analyzed. The variations of wave forces and overturning moments with the elevation of the idealized beachfront house are also investigated. 相似文献
8.
The Karman Vortex Street generated by a circular cylinder is investigated by the numerical solution of the compressible Navier–Stokes equations in the incompressible Mach number range (Mach<0.3) using the Beam and Warming implicit scheme. The agreement with the fully incompressible projection method (Chorin, 1968) is fairly good while convergence time is very much better. The investigation suggests that the compressible Navier–Stokes equations may be used as an efficient alternative to study incompressible flows as well. Mach numbers just below 0.3 are enough to simulate incompressible flow behavior and at the same time do not cause numerical ill-conditioning in the solution. In addition, some relevant features of the vortices generated and carried by the wake of the cylinder could be fairly well captured. 相似文献
9.
Waterfront retaining walls supporting dry backfill are subjected to hydrostatic pressure on upstream face and earth pressure on the downstream face. Under seismic conditions, if such a wall retains a submerged backfill, additional hydrodynamic pressures are generated. This paper pertains to a study in which the effect of earthquakes along with the hydrodynamic pressure including inertial forces on such a retaining wall is observed. The hydrodynamic pressure is calculated using Westergaard's approach, while the earth pressure is calculated using Mononobe-Okabe's pseudo-static analysis. It is observed that when the horizontal seismic acceleration coefficient is increased from 0 to 0.2, there is a 57% decrease in the factor of safety of the retaining wall in sliding mode. For investigating the effect of different parameters, a parametric study is also done. It is observed that if φ is increased from 30° to 35°, there is an increase in the factor of safety in the sliding mode by 20.4%. Similar observations were made for other parameters as well. Comparison of results obtained from the present approach with [Ebeling, R.M., Morrison Jr, E.E., 1992. The seismic design of waterfront retaining structures. US Army Technical Report ITL-92-11. Washington DC] reveal that the factor of safety for static condition (kh=0), calculated by both the approaches, is 1.60 while for an earthquake with kh=0.2, they differ by 22.5% due to the consideration of wall inertia in the present study. 相似文献
10.
The accuracy of several closure models of the Reynolds-Averaged Navier–Stokes Equations in predicting the characteristics of an oscillating turbulent wall boundary layer is analyzed. The analysis involves four low Reynolds number k − ε models and a k − ω model and it is carried out by comparing the model results both with experimental data and with data obtained by a Direct Numerical Simulation (DNS) of the Navier–Stokes equations. The boundary layer is generated by a spatially constant time-oscillating pressure gradient given by the sum of two harmonic components characterized by angular frequencies Ω∗ and 2Ω∗ respectively, which generates a steady streaming because of the asymmetry of turbulence intensity during the cycle. Thus the results are relevant to the boundary layer at the bottom of nonlinear sea waves. The attention is therefore focused on the accuracy of the models in reproducing the period averaged profiles of the hydrodynamic characteristics of the steady streaming. The instantaneous quantities, such as time development of the wall shear stress, profiles of the streamwise velocity, Reynolds stresses and turbulent kinetic energy are also considered and analyzed. The results shows that a model can be judged better or worse than other models depending on the specific flow characteristic under investigation. However, an approach has been adopted which allowed to rank the models according to their accuracy in predicting the values of the hydrodynamic quantities involved in the present study. 相似文献
11.
Adrián Pedrozo-Acuña Alec Torres-Freyermuth Qingping Zou Tian-Jian Hsu Dominic E. Reeve 《Coastal Engineering》2010
This paper presents an integrated investigation of physical processes generating impulsive pressures under the action of plunging breakers impinging on gravel beaches. This work is an extension of a recent investigation which suggested that wave impacts from plunging breakers acting on gravel beaches may be a key mechanism to enhance sediment mobilisation. In particular, comparisons of full scale laboratory measurements against model results from a well-validated phase/depth-resolving numerical model based on the Reynolds–Averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations are presented. This represents the first attempt at comparison with such a tool against observed hydrodynamics on steep (slope~1/8) gravel beaches at prototype scale. In order to understand how impulsive pressures are generated under plunging waves, the numerical model is used to carry out a detailed investigation to examine the role of each of the acceleration terms in the momentum balance. Consistent with prior studies, numerical results show that under plunging breakers the local acceleration (∂u/∂t) alone cannot be used as a proxy for pressure gradients. However, the contribution of the third term (w∂u/∂z) of total acceleration is recognized for the first time and indicates that this term has an important role in both the induced pressure gradient and sediment mobilisation as induced by this particular type of breaking. Furthermore, results suggest that a parameterisation of the pressure gradient in terms of ∂u/∂t+u∂u/∂x, may not suffice when dealing with plunging breakers and hence there is a lack of a suitable parameterisation of this process in the present literature. Thus, for different types of breaking it may be necessary to consider a different characterisation of the pressure gradient toward the parameterisation of sediment transport inside the surf zone. 相似文献
12.
Multidimensional Positive Definite Advection Transport Algorithm (MPDATA) and Monotonic Upstream Schemes for Conservation Laws (MUSCL) are compared and evaluated in a biogeochemical-like tracer model. Based on the MUSCL scheme, an adapted scheme for σ-coordinate models (MUSCL_VD) is presented. These schemes are first implemented in idealized experiments configured for a closed channel with and without a seamount, and conservation is confirmed. MUSCL_VD and MUSCL generate the same results in the flat bottom case, while MUSCL_VD is the only scheme that avoids unphysical values in the seamount experiments. When implemented in a three-dimensional model of the Gulf of Maine (GoM) with realistic topography and real-time forcing, the modeled distributions of an inert tracer concentration are sensitive to the advection schemes. The experiment with MUSCL shows persistent overshoots. MPDATA and MUSCL_VD produce similar spatial distributions and seasonal cycles with MUSCL_VD being slightly more diffusive in the horizontal and less so in the vertical. These two schemes are about equally efficient in computation. 相似文献
13.
Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface in shallow water and over slopes of various geometries are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also, the free surface which consists of markers or segments is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. Moreover, marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. Either linear or Stokes wave theory is employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with various wave periods and sea bottom slopes in surf zone. The results are compared with other existing computational and experimental results. Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good. 相似文献
14.
Transport timescales for identifying seasonal variation in Bass Strait, south-eastern Australia 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
A three-dimensional σ-coordinate ocean model with realistic forcing is used to derive and compare flushing time, residence time and water age distributions in Bass Strait, a broad shallow shelf sea in south-eastern Australia which exhibits seasonal variation in water mass properties and circulation. Results illustrate flushing out of most old water occurs each winter–spring period and the circulation in summer increases age of remnant older water in the Strait. A correlation between water age and salinity is found in winter which is the result of advective “erosion” of the interior water mass. The presence of an area in the south-eastern part of the interior with low flushing is suggested to result from a number of physical factors including the presence of quasi-stationary eddies which entrain age, leading to relatively older water residing there. 相似文献
15.
A tree-based solver for adaptive ocean modelling 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The development of an adaptive (in space and time) ocean model from an existing adaptive finite-volume Navier–Stokes model is described. A flexible and efficient quadtree spatial discretisation is used which requires collocation of all variables (i.e. an A-grid discretisation). We demonstrate that the use of an approximate projection method allows for implicit damping of instabilities generally associated with the A-grid, at the expense of a relatively small amount of numerical energy dissipation, while accurately preserving dispersive properties and geostrophic balance. The finite-volume formulation also maintains second-order spatial accuracy at all solid boundaries. Test cases demonstrate the efficacy of the adaptive ocean model, and the advantages it has in terms of efficient representation of multi-scale behaviour within a single model. The model is freely available as open-source code. 相似文献
16.
Numerical and laboratory experiments are performed to investigate characteristics of the Bragg reflection due to multi-arrayed trapezoidal submerged breakwaters. The numerical model is based on the Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes equations with the VOF method and the k–ε turbulence closure model. As expected, the reflection coefficients increase as the array of submerged breakwaters increases in both laboratory measurements and numerical results. The resonant periods provide similar relative wave numbers regardless of the permeability and the number of arrays. The reflection coefficients due to porous breakwaters are smaller than those due to non-porous breakwaters. The velocity contours for two and three arrays are also described. 相似文献
17.
From the experimental studies in recent years, it has become known that when a wave breaks directly on a vertical faced coastal structure, high magnitude impact pressures are produced. The theoretical and experimental studies show that the dynamic response of such structures under wave impact loading is closely dependent on the magnitude and duration of the load history. The dynamic analysis and design of a coastal structure can be succeeded provided the design load history for the wave impact is available. Since these types of data are very scarce, it is much more convenient to follow a method which is based on static analysis for the dynamic design procedure. Therefore, to facilitate the dynamic design of a vertical plate that is exposed to breaking wave impact, a multiplication factor called “dynamic magnification factor” is herein presented which is defined as the ratio of the maximum value of the dynamic response to that found by static analysis. The computational results of the present study show that the dynamic magnification factor is a useful ratio to transfer the results of static analysis to the dynamic design of a coastal plate for the maximum impact pressure conditions of pmax/γH0≤18. 相似文献
18.
Modeling the vertical penetration of photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) through the ocean, and its utilization by phytoplankton, is fundamental to simulating marine primary production. The variation of attenuation and absorption of light with wavelength suggests that photosynthesis should be modeled at high spectral resolution, but this is computationally expensive. To model primary production in global 3d models, a balance between computer time and accuracy is necessary. We investigate the effects of varying the spectral resolution of the underwater light field and the photosynthetic efficiency of phytoplankton (α*), on primary production using a 1d coupled ecosystem ocean turbulence model. The model is applied at three sites in the Atlantic Ocean (CIS (60°N), PAP (50°N) and ESTOC (30°N)) to include the effect of different meteorological forcing and parameter sets. We also investigate three different methods for modeling α* – as a fixed constant, varying with both wavelength and chlorophyll concentration [Bricaud, A., Morel, A., Babin, M., Allali, K., Claustre, H., 1998. Variations of light absorption by suspended particles with chlorophyll a concentration in oceanic (case 1) waters. Analysis and implications for bio-optical models. J. Geophys. Res. 103, 31033–31044], and using a non-spectral parameterization [Anderson, T.R., 1993. A spectrally averaged model of light penetration and photosynthesis. Limnol. Oceanogr. 38, 1403–1419]. After selecting the appropriate ecosystem parameters for each of the three sites we vary the spectral resolution of light and α* from 1 to 61 wavebands and study the results in conjunction with the three different α*estimation methods. The results show modeled estimates of ocean primary productivity are highly sensitive to the degree of spectral resolution and α*. For accurate simulations of primary production and chlorophyll distribution we recommend a spectral resolution of at least six wavebands if α* is a function of wavelength and chlorophyll, and three wavebands if α* is a fixed value. 相似文献
19.
Hydrodynamic forces on a partly buried cylinder exposed to combined waves and current 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The present study extends the investigations of the hydrodynamic forces on a cylinder, laid on, or partly buried in the bed. They were determined by measuring the pressure distribution on the cylinder surface in the case of steady current, waves and coexisting flow. The pressure distribution around the cylinder was measured by using pressure transducers, which were replaced in the cylinder. Force coefficients were obtained for the ranges of Re=0.8×104–1.5×104, for steady current, low KC numbers (KC<5) for wave alone case and, for current-to-wave velocity RATIO=0, 3, 6 and infinity (current) for coexisting flow. The forces were also determined for the various burial-depth-to-diameter ratios between 0 and 0.7 values of the cylinder. 相似文献
20.
Observation and measurement of the bottom boundary layer flow in the prebreaking zone of shoaling waves 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
In this paper, the characteristics of the bottom boundary layer flow induced by nonlinear, asymmetric shoaling waves, propagating over a smooth bed of 1/15 uniform slope, is experimentally investigated. Flow visualization technique with thin-layered fluorescent dye was first used to observe the variation of the flow structure, and a laser Doppler velocimeter was then employed to measure the horizontal velocity, U.The bottom boundary layer flow is found to be laminar except within a small region near the breaking point. The vertical distribution of the phase-averaged velocity U at each phase is non-uniform, which is directly affected by the mean velocity,
. The magnitude of
increases from zero at the bottom to a local positive maximum at about z/δ2.02.5 (where z is the height above the sloping bottom and δ is the Stokes layer thickness), then decreases gradually to zero at z/δ6.07.0 approximately, and finally becomes negative as z/δ increases further. Moreover, as waves propagate towards shallower water, the rate of increase in the maximum onshore oscillating velocity component
is greater than that of the offshore counterpart
except near the breaking point. The free stream velocities in the profiles of the maximum onshore and offshore oscillating velocity components,
and
are found to appear at z/δ≥6.0. This implies that, if the Stokes layer thickness is used as a length scale, the non-dimensionalized boundary layer thickness remains constant in the pre-breaking zone. Although
is greater than
and the asymmetry of the maximum free stream velocities (i.e.
) increases with decrease of water depth, a universal similar profile can be established by plotting z/δ versus (
) or (
). The final non-dimensional profile is symmetric and unique for the distributions of the maximum onshore and offshore oscillating velocity components within the bottom boundary layer, which are induced by nonlinear, asymmetric shoaling waves crossing the pre-breaking zone. 相似文献