共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 15 毫秒
1.
Characteristics of abnormal waves in North Sea storm sea states 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
A data set of storm wave records from the North Sea is analysed. Using current definitions of abnormal waves, eight of the largest wind waves are defined as abnormal waves. Twenty-four of the largest waves in time series, with a height larger than 10 m and with big vertical asymmetry are chosen for further analysis. Their individual characteristics are investigated and related to the global sea state characteristics. A comparison between measured data, second-order theory predictions and offshore basin data is made. The results for the chosen waves do not coincide with predictions of second-order theory. Considering that wind wave is second- and third-order non-linear, a new relationship between skewness and kurtosis is proposed for the sea states in which extremely asymmetric large waves have occurred. Another relationship between kurtosis and abnormality index of maximum waves is proposed too. 相似文献
2.
基于多源遥感数据的日本海内波特征研究 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
日本海特殊的地理位置和复杂的地形使得该海域内波表征极为复杂，遥感是大范围观测内波的有效手段，已被广泛应用于内波的探测研究。本文利用MODIS、GF-1和ENVISAT ASAR遥感影像，开展了日本海内波特征研究。通过提取内波波峰线，生成了日本海内波空间分布图；获取了内波的波峰线长度和传播速度，并基于非线性薛定谔方程反演了内波振幅。研究结果表明，日本海内波分布范围宽广，不仅大陆架沿海区内波分布密集，深海盆地也探测到了大量内波；日本海北部45°N附近海域有少量内波出现，利用高分影像探测到朝鲜陆架浅海区有大量小尺度内波，大和海盆、大和隆起的西南部海域没有发现内波。日本海内波波峰线长达100多千米，深海区的传播速度大于1 m/s；浅海区内波振幅约10 m左右，深海区可达60 m以上。 相似文献
3.
Statistics of nonlinear wave crests and groups 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Groups of large nonlinear waves with sharper higher crests can pose hazards to ships, induce harbor resonance and cause wave-overtopping of fixed and floating structures. Past interest in wave groups has mostly been focused on the statistics and modeling of linear wave groups. Studies on nonlinear wave groups are surprisingly few, and address deep water waves only. Here, statistics of nonlinear wave crests and wave-crest groups in deep and transitional water depths are considered, using an appropriate second-order representation for crest heights and the continuous wave-envelope approach. In particular, theoretical expressions describing the statistics of nonlinear wave crests and their groups are posed in the form of a simple second-order transformation of well-known results on linear waves. Predictions from the transformation so posed compare well with nonlinear wave data gathered in the North Sea, and demonstrate that nonlinearities do affect the statistics of large wave crests and their groups significantly. 相似文献
4.
This work deals with the estimation of the bispectrum of wind waves during severe storms containing abnormal or freak waves. It presents the basic definitions of higher-order spectra and of the bispectra in particular and further suggests how to interpret some of the results to identify non-linearity in the wave time series. Different estimation methods are used and compared so as to identify the differences in the estimated bispectra that results from the estimation procedure and the ones that result from the physics of the sea states. It is found that as a result of the second-order self-coupling the phase distribution of the wind wave during the severe storms differs from the uniform one and is well approximated by the distribution proposed by Tayfun and Lo [1989. Envelope, phase and narrow-band models of sea waves. Journal of Waterway Port Coast and Ocean Engineering 115(5), 594–613.]. 相似文献
5.
基于弱非线性理论及再分析同化数据, 计算了苏禄—苏拉威西海冬季及夏季内孤立波动力参数, 包括内孤立波线性速度、一阶和二阶非线性参数及线性色散参数, 并研究了这些参数的时空变化特征。我们发现, 虽然苏拉威西海域受到更加显著的西北太平洋水入侵, 但苏禄海内孤立波动力参数的时空变化特征却比苏拉威西海更为显著。夏季苏禄海内孤立波线性速度总体上比冬季约大0.1m·s-1; 与此相反, 夏季苏拉威西海内孤立波线性速度却比冬季约小0.05m·s-1。无论是一阶或二阶非线性动力参数, 其在苏拉威西海的时空变化均比较微弱, 但在苏禄海则较为显著。苏禄海夏季一阶非线性动力参数比冬季高出约3×10-3s-1, 但是夏季二阶非线性动力参数却比1月份低约3×10-5m-1·s-1。此外, 相比冬季, 夏季苏禄海和苏拉威西海的色散动力参数均有所减弱, 但其在苏禄海减弱的幅度更大。综上, 苏禄—苏拉威西海环流引起的水体层化最大浮力频率所在深度的时空变化是造成上述内孤立波动力参数时空变化的根本原因。 相似文献
6.
An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves). 相似文献
7.
Wave-height distributions and nonlinear effects 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Theoretical distributions proposed for describing the crest-to-trough heights of linear waves are reviewed briefly. To explore the effects of nonlinearities, these are generalized to second-order waves, utilizing quasi-deterministic results on the expected shape of large waves. The efficacy of Gram–Charlier models in describing the effects of third-order nonlinearities on the distributions of wave heights, crests and troughs are examined in detail. All models and a fifth-order Stokes–Rayleigh type model recently proposed are compared with linear and nonlinear waves simulated from the JONSWAP spectrum representative of long-crested extreme seas, and also with oceanic data gathered in the North Sea. Uncertainties arising from the variability of probability estimates derived from sample populations of limited size are considered. Ultimately, the comparisons show that nonlinearities do not have any discernable effect on the crest-to-trough heights of oceanic waves. Most of the linear models considered yield similar and reasonable predictions of the observed data trends. Gram–Charlier type distributions seem neither effective nor particularly useful in describing the statistics of large wave heights or crests under oceanic conditions. However, they do surprisingly well in predicting unusually large wave heights and crests observed in some 2D wave-flume experiments and 3D numerical simulations of long-crested narrow-band random waves. 相似文献
8.
根据海洋Rossby波的西传特性, 使用一阶斜压Rossby波模型对北太平洋海表面高度的年际变异进行了回报和预测研究。回报结果表明, Rossby 波模型能够较好地模拟北太平洋海表面高度的年际变异。尤其是黑潮延伸区的下游, 模拟结果与卫星观测的相关系数达到0.8以上。预测结果表明, Rossby 波模型在两个纬向分布的海域有显著的预报能力, 分别位于高纬度中部和副热带环流西部。前者可提前5—6年, 后者可提前2—4年。此外, 重点开展了Rossby波模型在西北太平洋的预报能力研究。结果表明, Rossby波模型对中国的边缘海有着很好的预测能力, 包括南海北部、台湾以东和东海黑潮海域, 分别在提前32、40和52个月时能取得最佳的预测效果。 相似文献
9.
The paper discusses short- and long-term probability models of ocean waves. The Gaussian theory is reviewed, and nonlinear short-term probability distributions are derived from a narrow band second-order model. The nonlinearity has different impact on different measurement techniques, and this is further demonstrated for wave data from the WAVEMOD Crete measurement campaign and laser data from the North Sea. Finally, we give some examples on how the short-term statistics may be used to estimate the probability distributions for the maximum waves during individual storms as well as in a wave climate described by long-term distributions. 相似文献
10.
Steepness and asymmetry of the largest waves in storm sea states 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Several steepness coefficients are proposed to describe the steepness and asymmetry of the largest individual waves in measured records of storm sea states. These coefficients are calculated for data collected in the North Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. Several statistical relationships between the new parameters are identified. 相似文献
11.
基于光学遥感MODIS的安达曼海内波时空分布与传播特性研究 总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5
This paper describes investigations of the internal waves in the Andaman Sea using Moderate Resolution Imaging Spectroradiometer(MODIS) imagery over the period of June 2010 to May 2016. Results of the spatial and temporal distribution, generation sources and propagation characteristics of internal waves are presented. The statistical analysis shows that internal waves can be observed in almost the entire area of the Andaman Sea. Most internal waves are observed in the northern, central and southern regions of the Andaman Sea. A significant number of internal waves between 7°N and 9°N in the East Indian Ocean are also observed. Internal waves can be observed year-round in the Andaman Sea, while most of internal waves are observed between February and April, with a maximum frequency of 15.03% in March. The seasonal distribution of the internal waves shows that the internal waves have mostly been observed in the dry season(February to April), and fewer internal waves are observed in the rainy season(May to October). The double peak distribution for the occurrence frequency of internal waves is found. With respect to the lunar influence, more internal waves are observed after the spring tide, which implies the spring tide may play an important role in internal wave generation in the Andaman Sea. Generation sources of internal waves are explored based on the propagation characteristics of internal waves. The results indicate that six sources are located between the Andaman Islands and the Nicobar Islands, and one is located in the northern Andaman Sea. Four regions with active internal wave phenomenon in the Andaman Sea were presented during the MODIS survey, and the propagation speed of internal waves calculated based on the semidiurnal generation period is smaller than the results acquired from pairs of the images with short time intervals. 相似文献
12.
Lipa B.J. Barrick D.E. Isaacson J. Lilleboe P.M. 《Oceanic Engineering, IEEE Journal of》1990,15(2):119-125
CODAR, a high-frequency (HF) compact radar system, was operated continuously over several weeks aboard the semisubmersible oil platform Treasure Saga for the purpose of wave-height directional measurement and comparison. During North Sea winter storm conditions, the system operated at two different frequencies, depending on the sea state. Wave data are extracted from the second-order backscatter Doppler spectrum produced by nonlinearities in the hydrodynamic wave/wave and electromagnetic wave/scatter interactions. Because the floating oil rig itself moves in response to long waves, a technique has been developed and successfully demonstrated to eliminate to second order the resulting phase-modulation contamination of the echo, using separate accelerometer measurement of the platform's lateral motions. CODAR wave height, mean direction, and period are compared with data from a Norwegian directional wave buoy; in storm seas with wave heights that exceeded 9 m, the two height measurements agreed to within 20 cm RMS, and the mean direction to better than 15° RMS 相似文献
13.
安达曼海是内波频繁发生的海区之一,对其内波的研究是当今海洋研究的热点。本文利用2013—2016年间覆盖整个安达曼海的3 000多幅Terra/Aqua MODIS、GF-1、Landsat-8、Sentinel-1 等卫星遥感图像,从中提取和解译了内波波列线和波向信息,得到安达曼海海洋内波的时间分布特征,并绘制了内波空间分布图。结果表明,安达曼海及其邻近海域内波主要出现在4个区域:苏门答腊岛以北海域、安达曼海中部海域、安达曼海北部海域以及尼科巴群岛以西海域,尺度较大的内波主要分布在苏门答腊岛以北海域和安达曼海中部海域。在时间分布上,2013—2016年间安达曼海内波的年发生次数相近;在热季、雨季及冬季遥感都能观测到内波的发生;2-4月遥感观测到的内波最多,其次为8、9月,7月遥感观测到的内波较少,这可能是由于雨季光学影像受云影响,安达曼海海域晴空影像过少造成,还需要借助更多的遥感影像进一步证明。在波向上,安达曼海多数内波向岸传播,在苏门答腊岛北部、安达曼海中部海域,内波向东或向东南传播;在安达曼群岛东部,内波向东传播,传播一定距离后与海底地形交互作用,一部分继续向前传播,一部分产生反射,向西南方向传播至安达曼群岛;在尼科巴群岛以西海域,内波由尼科巴群岛向孟加拉湾传播。 相似文献
14.
《Marine Policy》2017
The rapid Arctic summer sea ice reduction in the last decade has lead to debates in the maritime industries on the possibility of an increase in cargo transportation in the region. Average sailing times on the North Sea Route along the Siberian Coast have fallen from 20 days in the 1990s to 11 days in 2012–2013, attributed to easing sea ice conditions along the Siberian coast. However, the economic risk of exploiting the Arctic shipping routes is substantial. Here a detailed high-resolution projection of ocean and sea ice to the end of the 21st century forced with the RCP8.5 IPCC emission scenario is used to examine navigability of the Arctic sea routes. In summer, opening of large areas of the Arctic Ocean previously covered by pack ice to the wind and surface waves leads to Arctic pack ice cover evolving into the Marginal Ice Zone. The emerging state of the Arctic Ocean features more fragmented thinner sea ice, stronger winds, ocean currents and waves. By the mid 21st century, summer season sailing times along the route via the North Pole are estimated to be 13–17 days, which could make this route as fast as the North Sea Route. 相似文献
15.
本文基于2017年634幅MODIS影像分析了安达曼海3个典型区域的内波空间分布特征，定量统计了波峰线长度、波包面积等特征参数，利用射线追踪法探讨了内波的潜在激发源并推算了内波的生成周期。研究表明，安达曼海北部海域的内波空间尺度较小，前导波波峰线的平均长度约为107 km，平均波包面积约为1 860 km2，内波的传播方向主要为东向以及西南向。安达曼海中部海域内波前导波波峰线的平均长度约为133 km，平均波包面积约为3 503 km2，超过70%的内波沿东偏北方向传播。苏门答腊岛北部海域内波前导波波峰线的平均长度约为131 km，平均波包面积约为2 997 km2，内波的传播方向主要为东向、东北向及东南向。安达曼海共有7个潜在内波激发源，内波的生成时间间隔介于11.5～13 h，具有明显的半日周期特征。 相似文献
16.
基于二阶斯托克斯波理论推导了辐射应力的垂向分布表达式,通过算例讨论了辐射应力在深水和有限水深条件下的垂向分布规律,并与基于微幅波理论的辐射应力进行了比较.结果表明,在波浪非线性不强时,基于二阶斯托克斯波理论的辐射应力与基于微幅波理论的辐射应力表达式计算结果接近;而当水深较浅波浪非线性较强时,基于二阶斯托克斯波理论的辐射应力在近表面处明显大于基于微幅波理论的辐射应力.采用二阶斯托克斯波理论推导的波浪辐射应力更为合理地反映了波浪非线性效应. 相似文献
17.
南海冬季海浪的时空变率特征 总被引：4，自引：1，他引：3
The spatial and temporal variation characteristics of the waves in the South China Sea(SCS) in the boreal winter during the period of 1979/1980–2011/2012 have been investigated based on the European Centre for Medium-range Weather Forecasts interim(ERA-Interim) reanalysis dataset. The results show that the leading mode of significant wave height anomalies(SWHA) in the SCS exhibits significant interannual variation and a decadal shift around the mid-1990 s, and features a basin-wide pattern in the entire SCS with a center located in the west of the Luzon Strait. The decadal change from a weak regime to a strong regime is mainly associated with the enhancement of winter monsoon modulated by the Pacific decadal oscillation(PDO). The interannual variation of the SWHA has a significant negative correlation with the El Ni?o Southern Oscillation(ENSO) in the same season and the preceding autumn. For a better understanding of the physical mechanism between the SCS ocean waves and ENSO, further investigation is made by analyzing atmospheric circulation. The impact of the ENSO on the SWHA over the SCS is bridged by the East Asian winter monsoon and Pacific-East Asian teleconnection in the lower troposphere. During the El Ni?o(La Ni?a), the anomalous Philippine Sea anticyclone(cyclone) dominates over the Western North Pacific, helps to weaken(enhance) East Asian winter monsoon and then emerges the negative(positive) SWHA in the SCS. 相似文献
18.
The long-term distribution of seabed shear stresses under random waves is presented. The approach combines short-term distribution of maximum bottom shear stresses with a joint frequency table of significant wave height and peak period. An example of application is given where the long-term probability of exceeding a given level of the maximum bottom shear stress in the central North Sea is presented. The example includes estimation of the return period of the critical shear stress for sheet flow conditions, as well as the bottom shear stresses associated with the 1, 10 and 100 years return periods. 相似文献
19.
Oceanic Odyssey of a satellite-tracked drifter: North Pacific variability delineated by a single drifter trajectory 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Richard E. Thomson Paul H. LeBlond Alexander B. Rabinovich 《Journal of Oceanography》1997,53(1):81-87
A near-surface satellite-tracked drifter launched off the east coast of the Kuril Islands on September 4,1993 began a 2.5-year
Odyssey across the North Pacific Ocean. During its travels, the drifter encountered numerous energetic oceanographic regimes
as it moved from the region of the Kuril-Kamchatka Trench to the continental margin of the Kuril Islands, through Friza Strait
into the Sea of Okhotsk, seaward again through Bussol’ Strait, and then eastward across the North Pacific. Oceanic features
detected along the basin-wide trajectory include a quasi-permanent anticyclonic eddy over the Kuril-Kamchatka Trench, open-ocean
wind-driven inertial oscillations, coastal-trapped diurnal shelf waves, semidiurnal tidal currents, transient cyclonic and
anticyclonic eddies, through-strait flows, and wave-like mesoscale meanders. The single drifter track delineates the dynamically-rich
variability of upper ocean currents, emphasizes the marked difference in flow dynamics between boundary and open ocean regions,
and provides a time-scale for the movement of surface waters across the entire North Pacific. 相似文献
20.
The erosion depth and the sheet flow layer thickness represent two characteristic parameters for transport processes in oscillatory sheet flow. Formulas for these parameters under regular waves have been applied to obtain characteristic statistical values under random waves. The applicability of the method for practical purposes is illustrated by two examples using data typical for field conditions at water depths of 70 m (Ekofisk location in the North Sea) and 15 m, respectively. Two fictive storms based on the Dohmen-Janssen and Hanes [Dohmen-Janssen, C.M., Hanes, D.M., 2005. Sheet flow and suspended sediment due to wave groups in a large wave flume. Cont. Shelf Res. 25, 333–347] data from large scale wave flume tests have also been utilized to demonstrate how the return period of the sheet flow layer thickness observed in their experiments can be estimated. 相似文献