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群发性是风浪破碎的显著特征,最近的研究表明风浪破碎研究应该基于波群而不是单个波。本文探讨破碎波群区别于非破碎波群的显著特征指标。依据一系列风浪破碎实验数据,采用多种判据与实验现场目测的破碎标记信号相结合的原则划分破碎波群与非破碎波群,考查波群特征量、单个波几何特征量、局地破碎判据指标、波包络几何特征量以及波群能量结构特征量等5大类28个指标在破碎波群与非破碎波群上的分布差异。结果表明:波陡、峰前波陡、瞬时波面斜率、运动学判据指标和动力学判据指标等在破碎非破碎波群上的分布几乎没有交叠;后两者尤为理想,分布明显分离,是破碎波群区别于非破碎波群的显著指标;而其它各指标在破碎波群非破碎波群上的分布都有不同程度的交叠,不能单独依据它们区分破碎波群与非破碎波群。 相似文献
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本文将小波分析用于波群结构和波群中波破碎的研究。实验结果表明,波群中波动的振幅不是关于波群中央对称的,而是波群前部波动的振幅较大。这种不对称性导致波群前部单个波的波陡较大,后部单个波的波陡较小,当谱宽度增大时波群前部与后部单个波的平均波陡之差增大。波群前部波陡较大导致波群前部的波动最容易发生破碎,而不是波群中央的波动最容易发生破碎,波群中波动最可能发生破碎的位置距波群中央的长度为波群长度的1/6。 相似文献
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本文基于Longuet-Higgins随机波浪模型和JONSWAP谱,进行了大量深水随机波的模拟,获取了畸形波发生概率稳定的随机波列,并对随机波列中的畸形波进行了分析。结果表明,畸形波发生的概率小于基于Rayleigh分布预测结果,且随谱宽的减小而增大。在固定时间段内,畸形波发生的频次服从泊松分布,时间间隔服从指数分布,且随着谱宽的增大,畸形波的发生频次减小,相邻畸形波的发生时间间隔增加。通过小波变换方法分离随机波中的波群,研究了出现畸形波的波群特征,发现一个波群中最多会出现4个畸形波,但是在发生畸形波的波群中,单个畸形波的概率最大。随着谱宽减小,一个波群中包含多个畸形波的概率增加。另外,出现畸形波的波群时间长度服从广义极值分布,随着谱宽减小,畸形波波群的时间跨度增加。 相似文献
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引入极限波高是随机变量的概念，将近岸破碎波的波高概率分布用形式不同的未破碎波高的概率密度和已破碎波高的概率密度的相加来表示，提出了一种新的破碎波高概率分布形式。认为破碎带内的波高总体上服从瑞利分布，其中已破碎波高的概率密度按总波高的概率密度等比例分布于整个波高范围，破碎概率和当地均方根波高与极限特征波高之比有关。实验表明，本文提出的近岸破碎波高概率分布较好地体现了近岸波浪的破碎特征。 相似文献
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为了研究独立高斯型波群在中等水深条件下的非线性演化情况,进行了多种波况的物理试验,重点分析了波浪各要素对波群非线性演化的影响。试验结果表明,波陡在波群演化中占主导作用,其次是波群的谱宽,前者引起的非线性主要体现在高阶谐波的能量变化而后者引起的非线性主要体现在自由波能量的变化。频带下移现象只在大波陡情况下才会发生,随着波陡的增加,频带下移发生的相对更早,随着波群的谱变窄,频带下移相对越明显。波陡的增加会使得波群更早的开始分裂。大波陡的波群在演化中会发生破碎,破碎的类型以崩破为主,并且崩破是间歇发生的,连续崩破发生的距离约为1.0～1.5倍波长。此外,破碎引起的能量损耗主要来源于主频和高频成分波,耗散率约10%～18%,平均每个崩破能耗约为初始能量的2%。 相似文献
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在实验室风浪槽中观测风浪,发现波群连长是影响波群中波高分布的重要因素,随着波群连长增大,波群中波高分布信息熵增大。当以平均波高无因次化,连长较大时波群中波高累积概率明显大于连长较小时情形。波群中波高分布受谱宽度影响。当谱宽度增大,波群中波高累积概率降低。谱宽度和波群连长对波群中波高累积概率的影响相当。引进体现波群特性的1个无因次化波高参量研究波群中波高累积概率。 相似文献
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本文在讨论破碎波判据研究的基础上(文献[1]),根据前人的破碎波研究结果,以及海浪的随机性,建立了一个包含摩擦风速和波浪要素的破碎波判据计算模式,报告了在海上和实验室进行验证的实测结果.其特点是利用良好的现场观测条件和先进的实验设备,对破碎波进行了测量,首次通过划分破碎波的状态,合理地给出了破碎波判据的实测结果,并比较分析了其他几种波浪破碎判据的实测结果及使用范围.本文的计算风浪破碎判据的模式与外海实测结果比较接近,但与实验室测量结果相差较大. 相似文献
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作者（１９９１）的理论分析和实验研究表明：对于崩波型破碎，合田的临界相对波高值（Ｈ／ｄ）ｂ及Ｍｉｃｈｅｌｌ和Ｍｉｃｈｅ的临界波陡值（Ｈ／Ｌ）ｂ可作为规则波的破碎指标。基于相同的原则，通过系统的分析和实验，规则波的破碎指标可以推广应用于不规则波。 相似文献
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Knowledge on intermittency of wave breaking is so far limited to a few summary statistics, while the probability distribution of time interval between breaking events can provide a full view of intermittency. Based on a series of experiments on wind wave breaking, such probability distributions are investigated. Breaking waves within a wave group were taken as a single breaking event according to recent studies. Interval between successive wave groups with breaker is the focus of this paper. For intervals in our experiments with different fetch and wind conditions, their distributions are all skewed and weighted on small intervals. Results of Kolmogorov-Smirnov tests on time series of these intervals indicate that they all follow gamma distribution, and some are even exponential type. Average breaking-group-interval decreases with friction velocity and significant steepness until the wind is strong enough;most of them are more than 10 times the dominant wave period. Group breaking probability proposed by Babanin recently and the average number of breaking waves in wave groups are also discussed, and they are seemingly more reasonable and sensitive than traditional breaking probability defined in terms of single wave. 相似文献
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More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable. 相似文献
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SWAN模型中不同风拖曳力系数对风浪模拟的影响 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
本文以荷兰哈灵水道海域为实验区域,通过敏感性实验,研究了在14 m/s、31.5 m/s和50 m/s（分别代表一般大风、强热带风暴和强台风的极端条件）定常风速下SWAN模型中不同风拖曳力系数对风浪模拟的影响程度。结果表明,对于近岸浅水区域（水深小于20 m）,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高影响较小,而且当风速增加到一定程度后,波浪破碎成为影响波高值的主要因素;对于深水区域（水深大于30 m）,一般大风条件下风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高影响仍然较小,随着风速的继续增大,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高的影响逐渐显著。对于平均周期,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择和风速的改变对其影响均较小,而由水深变浅导致的波浪破碎对其影响较为显著。根据敏感性实验结果,本文对SWAN模型中风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择做出如下建议:计算近岸浅水区域风浪场或深水区域一般大风条件风浪场时,其风拖曳力系数可以直接采用模型默认选项;而对于深水区域更大风速条件,可首先采用模型默认选项试算,然后结合当地海域实测波浪资料进行修正。 相似文献
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A study of sea surface wave propagation and its energy deformation was carried out using field observations and numerical experiments over a region spanning the midshelf of the South Atlantic Bight (SAB) to the Altamaha River Estuary, GA. Wave heights on the shelf region correlate with the wind observations and directional observations show that most of the wave energy is incident from the easterly direction. Comparing midshelf and inner shelf wave heights during a time when there was no wind and hence no wave development led to an estimation of wave energy dissipation due to bottom friction with corresponding wave dissipation factor of 0.07 for the gently sloping continental shelf of the SAB. After interacting with the shoaling region of the Altamaha River, the wave energy within the estuary becomes periodic in time showing wave energy during flood to high water phase of the tide and very little wave energy during ebb to low water. This periodic modulation inside the estuary is a direct result of enhanced depth and current-induced wave breaking that occurs at the ebb shoaling region surrounding the Altamaha River mouth at longitude 81.23°W. Modelling results with STWAVE showed that depth-induced wave breaking is more important during the low water phase of the tide than current-induced wave breaking during the ebb phase of the tide. During the flood to high water phase of the tide, wave energy propagates into the estuary. Measurements of the significant wave height within the estuary showed a maximum wave height difference of 0.4 m between the slack high water (SHW) and slack low water (SLW). In this shallow environment these wave–current interactions lead to an apparent bottom roughness that is increased from typical hydraulic roughness values, leading to an enhanced bottom friction coefficient. 相似文献
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In this paper,flume experiments are focused on sediment transport inside and outside the surf zone.According to the energy dissipation balance principle of sediment-laden flow and the similarity between energy dissipation of spilling breaking wave and hydraulic jump,formulas are proposed to predict time averaged suspended sediment concentration under both non-breaking and breaking waves.Assuming that the sediment diffusion coefficient,which is related with energy dissipation,is proportional to water depth,formulas are proposed to predict close-to-bed suspended sediment concentration and vertical distribution of suspended sediment under spilling breaking waves,and the prediction shows a good agreement with the measurement. 相似文献
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对近破波作用下沉箱式防波堤的运动特性进行了模型实验研究。实验中测量了沉箱模型与基床的摩擦系数、基床刚度和阻尼系数;不同水位情况下作用于沉箱模型上的近破波波压力时程;近破波作用下沉箱模型的位移和转角响应时程等,并与数学模型计算结果进行了比较分析。实验结果表明,若沉箱的滑移力大于沉箱与基床间的摩擦力,在连续波浪作用下,沉箱将连续出现间歇式滑移运动,数学模型可较好地模拟这一运动过程。 相似文献
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通过物理模型实验研究了海岸沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的形成和演化过程,给出了稳定的沙坝剖面和滩肩剖面的几何特征。实验中考虑了两种初始坡度(1∶20和1∶10)和不同波高的规则波和不规则波,讨论了不同初始坡度海岸上破碎波空间分布特征。结果表明,沙坝产生后存在向岸和离岸两种运动形态,但最终将停留在稳定位置。稳定的沙坝剖面对应不同初始坡度和波浪存在不同的大沙坝和小沙坝分布。沙坝剖面由长时间小波高波浪序列作用后可转化为稳定滩肩剖面,该剖面不依赖于波浪和初始坡度。实验也给出了平衡剖面与理论曲线的对比以及剖面上泥沙粒径的分布。 相似文献