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1.
Prediction and assimilation of surf-zone processes using a Bayesian network: Part II: Inverse models
A Bayesian network model has been developed to simulate a relatively simple problem of wave propagation in the surf zone (detailed in Part I). Here, we demonstrate that this Bayesian model can provide both inverse modeling and data-assimilation solutions for predicting offshore wave heights and depth estimates given limited wave-height and depth information from an onshore location. The inverse method is extended to allow data assimilation using observational inputs that are not compatible with deterministic solutions of the problem. These inputs include sand bar positions (instead of bathymetry) and estimates of the intensity of wave breaking (instead of wave-height observations). Our results indicate that wave breaking information is essential to reduce prediction errors. In many practical situations, this information could be provided from a shore-based observer or from remote-sensing systems. We show that various combinations of the assimilated inputs significantly reduce the uncertainty in the estimates of water depths and wave heights in the model domain. Application of the Bayesian network model to new field data demonstrated significant predictive skill (R2 = 0.7) for the inverse estimate of a month-long time series of offshore wave heights. The Bayesian inverse results include uncertainty estimates that were shown to be most accurate when given uncertainty in the inputs (e.g., depth and tuning parameters). Furthermore, the inverse modeling was extended to directly estimate tuning parameters associated with the underlying wave-process model. The inverse estimates of the model parameters not only showed an offshore wave height dependence consistent with results of previous studies but the uncertainty estimates of the tuning parameters also explain previously reported variations in the model parameters. 相似文献
2.
波浪在斜坡地形上破碎,破波后稳定波高多采用物理模型试验方法进行研究,利用近岸波浪传播变形的抛物型缓坡方程和波能流平衡方程,导出了适用于斜坡上波浪破碎的数值模拟方法。首先根据波能流平衡方程和缓坡方程基本型式分析波浪在破波带内的波能变化和衰减率,推导了波浪传播模型中波能衰减因子和破波能量流衰减因子之间的关系;其次,利用陡坡地形上的高阶抛物型缓坡方程建立了波浪传播和波浪破碎数学模型;最后,根据物理模型试验实测数据对数值模拟的效果进行验证。数值计算与试验资料比较表明,该模型可以较好地模拟斜坡地形的波浪传播波高变化。 相似文献
3.
Finite volume scheme for the solution of 2D extended Boussinesq equations in the surf zone 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
In this paper, a hybrid finite volume-finite difference scheme is applied to study surf zone dynamics. The numerical model solves the 2DH extended Boussinesq equations proposed by Madsen and Sørensen (1992) where nonlinear and dispersive effects are both relevant whereas it solves NSWE equations where nonlinearity prevails. The shock-capturing features of the finite volume method allow an intrinsic representation of wave breaking and runup; therefore no empirical (calibration) parameters are necessary. Comparison with laboratory measurements demonstrates that the proposed model can accurately predict wave height decay and mean water level setup, for both regular and solitary wave breaking on a sloping beach. The model is also applied to reproduce two-dimensional wave transformation and breaking over a submerged circular shoal, showing good agreement with experimental data. 相似文献
4.
This paper presents a three-dimensional analytic linear wave solution for surface gravity wave propagation over a sloping bottom that is valid for small, but realistic, slopes. The sloping-bottom linear model is compared to published laboratory data and to predictions of two-dimensional, constant-bottom nonlinear theories. The model is shown to describe the measured wave-height growth in the wave transformation region up to a limiting local Ursell number Ur of 0.35-1.0, depending on the wave type, although, as a linear model, it does not predict the harmonics observed in that range. For Ur<0.35, the harmonics can generally be neglected and the sloping-bottom linear theory agrees closely with both the published wave-height data and third-order Stokes nonlinear theory. As a three-dimensional linear model, superposition can be invoked to synthesize and relate wave structure in the transformation region to complex incident ocean spectra with both wind wave and swell components that arrive with a range of incidence angles. As such, the sloping-bottom linear model presented here should be a convenient useful tool for ocean modeling through a significant portion of the wave transformation region 相似文献
5.
基于浅水斜坡地形的物理模型试验数据,考察SWAN模型对实验室小尺度浅水波浪的模拟效果,进而检验其浅水项的模拟精度。模拟中采用直接输入初始测点的实测海浪谱进行造波,重点考察浅水中三波相互作用和变浅破碎两个源项,对不同工况下,SWAN模式在水深条件变化下的有效波高、谱平均周期、海浪谱演化的模拟能力进行研究。研究表明:模拟的有效波高较符合实测波浪的增长和衰减,但谱平均周期计算值明显偏小;海浪谱的能量转移机制同实测有较大区别,频谱模拟结果出现高频高估、低频低估现象。对两个源项进行对比分析得出三波相互作用对海浪谱的能量转换影响远大于变浅破碎耗散。想要提高近岸区谱平均周期和海浪谱的模拟精度则SWAN模型中三波非线性项的计算精确度仍需更多研究和改进。 相似文献
6.
A wave-height meter using a simple microwave Doppler radar,simeq10 mW in power and 10.525 GHz in frequency, is proposed so that we can measure oceanic waves effectively while the ship is steaming. It was first applied to the measurement of the variation of water level generated in a wave tank, which suggested that it is adequately applicable to the measurement of oceanic waves. A field test was carried out off the cape of Nojimazaki by installing the Doppler radar 5 m above the sea level at the bow of the ship. The result agreed reasonably well with that measured simultaneously by the ultrasonic wave-height meter installed at the same position. Another test is running successfully on a larger ship with the wave-height meter installed at 9 m above the sea level. The significant wave height measured by the present meter is being compared with that observed visually by the navigation officers. 相似文献
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A probabilistic model (
-model) was developed to describe the propagation and transformation of individual waves (wave by wave approach). The individual waves shoal until an empirical criterion for breaking is satisfied. Wave height decay after breaking is modelled by using an energy dissipation method. Wave-induced set-up and set-down and breaking-associated longshore currents are also modelled. Laboratory and field data were used to calibrate and verify the model. The model was calibrated by adjusting the wave breaking coefficient (as a function of local wave steepness and bottom slope) to obtain optimum agreement between measured and computed wave height. Four tests carried out in the large Delta flume of Delft Hydraulics were considered. Generally, the measured H1/3-wave heights are reasonably well represented by the model in all zones from deep water to the shallow surf zone. The fraction of breaking waves was reasonably well represented by the model in the upsloping zones of the bottom profile. Verification of the model results with respect to wave-induced longshore current velocities was not extensive, because of a lack of data. In case of a barred profile the measured longshore velocities showed a relatively uniform distribution in the (trough) zone between the bar crest and the shoreline, which could to some extent be modelled by including space-averaging of the radiation force gradient, horizontal mixing and longshore water surface gradients related to variations in set-up. In case of a monotonically upsloping profile the cross-shore distribution of the longshore current velocities is reasonably well represented. 相似文献
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10.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(5-6):463-485
A Navier–Stokes solver with a free surface model is used for simulating wave breaking, undertow, and turbulence in breaking waves. The free surface model is based on the Volume of Fluid concept. Turbulence scales larger than the grid scale are simulated directly while turbulence scales smaller than the grid scale are represented by a sub-grid scale model. Two different approaches for the sub-grid scale model have been applied, which are the Smagorinsky model and a model based on a k-equation for the sub-grid scale turbulence. The waves approach the shore in shore-normal direction and break on a plane constant sloping beach. Periodic spilling and plunging breakers are simulated for 20 and 16 wave periods, respectively. The set-up, undertow, and turbulence levels are compared to experimental results. Despite the rather coarse resolution of the computational domain, satisfactory results for the wave height decay and undertow have been obtained. However, the turbulence levels are over-predicted when using the standard values of the model parameters and a complete answer to this problem has not been found. Furthermore, the evolution of vorticity over the wave period has been studied. It shows that at the initial breaking point vorticity is generated around the vertical as well as around the transverse axis. Later vorticity around the longitudinal axis (offshore–onshore direction) is generated, probably through deformation of vorticity around the other axis. 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》1999,38(2):91-113
The present study aims at investigating the non-linear triad interaction process affecting shoaling surface gravity wave fields. The triad interaction phenomenon being enhanced towards the shore, the domain of study is extended up to the surf zone. Three 1D non-linear wave models (one phase-resolving and two phase-averaged spectral models) have been implemented and compared to laboratory experiments performed in a wave flume. This set of models includes two existing models and a new one which has been developed in the frame of this work. The models include a breaking dissipation term based on the parametrical model of Battjes and Janssen [Battjes, J.A., Janssen, P.A.E.M., 1978. Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves. Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng. (ASCE), Vol. 1, pp. 569–587.]. The investigations concern the evolution of variance spectra, spectral significant wave height and mean period over a barred bathymetric profile. In addition, the performances of the different models are analysed by computing the spectral source term for triad interactions. We found that all models are able to reproduce the main features of non-linear mechanisms affecting a wave field in the near-shore zone. The phase-resolving model gives the most accurate results for non-breaking situations. It correctly reproduces the non-linear coupling effect in decreasing water depths due to wave–wave interactions, as well as the harmonic release after a bar. However, the model is computationally time-consuming. The CPU time is considerably reduced using phase-averaged models. They give satisfactorily results on harmonic generation. However, they do not reproduce the release of harmonics as water depth increases. In breaking conditions, the variance spectra undergo significant changes under the combined effects of non-linear energy transfers and dissipation. The depth-induced wave breaking model included in the equations provides a good estimate of the energy decay in the surf zone. 相似文献
13.
本文分析了西太平洋实测的波高分布、同期分布、波高和周期的联合分布,以及波谱的分析。分析结果指出,大洋波浪的波高和周期都大于近海波浪的波高和周期。分布特征也不同于近海。波浪多属混合浪,会出现典型的双峰谱。 相似文献
14.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(8):675-690
It is important to accurately locate the wave breaking region for the calculation of nearshore hydrodynamics. Energy from breaking waves drives hydrodynamic phenomena such as wave set-up, set-down, wave run-up, longshore currents, rip currents, and nearshore circulation. Numerous studies have been undertaken to describe when and where wave breakings occurs. Recent development of computer resources permits the use of phase-resolving numerical models for the study of wave propagation, transformation, and nearshore hydrodynamics. This requires new types of wave breaking criteria for the numerical model. The Relative Trough Froude Number (RTFN) is a new wave breaking criterion. This model is based on the moving hydraulic jump concept, therefore it satisfies properly posed boundary-value conditions. It has been experimentally proved that a critical RTFN at the initiation of wave breaking is consistent with and without the presence of an opposing current, but previous efforts did not investigate the theory for the critical value. This paper provides a theoretical analysis and a numerical analysis to demonstrate why the RTFN theory works as a wave breaking initiation (trigger) index. The theoretical analysis provides a universal constant for the initiation of wave breaking for all water depths assuming the Miche formula properly describes the wave breaking condition. A subroutine for wave breaking in a numerical model, FUNWAVE was modified to include the RTFN trigger. The numerical model was calibrated with data from wave tank experiments, and it was found that the critical condition is very close to the theoretical number, CTFN = 1.45. A second paper (in preparation) provides details of the theory and experiments for a second criterion for termination of wave breaking. The time scale for the establishment of the breaking region i.e., between the initiation position and termination position, depends upon the additional momentum present under turbulent condition within the breaking wave. This subject is not considered herein. 相似文献
15.
Implementation and evaluation of alternative wave breaking formulas in a coastal spectral wave model 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
This paper describes methods and results of research for incorporating four different parameterized wave breaking and dissipation formulas in a coastal wave prediction model. Two formulations assume the breaking energy dissipation to be limited by the Rayleigh distribution, whereas the other two represent the breaking wave energy by a bore model. These four formulations have been implemented in WABED, a directional spectral wave model based on the wave action balance equation with diffraction, reflection, and wave–current interaction capabilities. Four parameterized wave breaking formulations are evaluated in the present study using two high-quality laboratory data sets. The first data set is from a wave transformation experiment at an idealized inlet entrance, representing four incident irregular waves in a slack tide and two steady-state ebb current conditions. The second data set is from a laboratory study of wave propagation over a complex bathymetry with strong wave-induced currents. Numerical simulation results show that with a proper breaking formulation the wave model can reproduce laboratory data for waves propagating over idealized or complicated bathymetries with ambient currents. The extended Goda wave breaking formulation with a truncated Rayleigh distribution, and the Battjes and Janssen formulation with a bore model produced the best agreement between model and data. 相似文献
16.
The accuracy of predicting wave transformation in the nearshore is very important to wave hydrodynamics, sediment transport and design of coastal structures. An efficient numerical model based on the time-dependent mild-slope equation is presented in this paper for the estimation of wave deformation across the surf zone. This model incorporates an approximate nonlinear shoaling formula and an energy dissipation factor due to wave breaking to improve the accuracy of the calculation of wave height deformation prior to wave breaking and also in the surf zone. The model also computes the location of first wave breaking, wave recovery and second wave breaking, if physical condition permits. Good agreement is found upon comparison with experimental data over several one-dimensional beach profiles, including uniform slope, bar and step profiles. 相似文献
17.
TAO Jianhua 《中国海洋工程》2001,(2):269-280
The "surface roller" to simulate wave energy dissipation of wave breaking is introduced into the random wave model based on approximate parabolic mild slope equation in this paper to simulate the random wave transportation including diffraction, refraction and breaking in nearshore areas. The roller breaking random wave higher-order approximate parabolic equation model has been verified by the existing experimental data for a plane slope beach and a circular shoal, and the numerical results of random wave breaking model agree with the experimental data very well. This model can be applied to calculate random wave propagation from deep to shallow water in large areas near the shore over natu ral topography. 相似文献
18.
A nearshore wave breaking model 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
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海岸波浪多次破碎波能耗散模型 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
在坡度很缓(接近或小于1∶100)的海岸,波浪在向海岸传播的过程中,可能经历多次破碎,而在两次波浪破碎之间将伴随着波浪恢复(波浪恢复到不破碎状态)。在现有海岸波高计算模型中,波浪破碎是通过波能耗散来模拟的,但所采用的波能耗散模型都不能自动考虑波浪出现多次破碎的过程,特别精确模拟这一过程中出现的波浪恢复。本文提出了解决这一问题的新的波能耗散模型,模型的建立是通过在Dally模型中重新建立稳定波能、饱和波高水深比和波能耗散系数,并引入了波浪恢复的判断条件实现的。该模型的波能耗散在波浪恢复区的值很小故能描述波浪恢复区的波浪运动。与实验结果的对比表明,新模型可以适合缓坡情况波浪多次破碎的波高模拟,而且对不同坡度的平坡和沙坝海岸(1∶100～1∶10)的破碎波模拟都可以给出与实验结果符合的结果,并且可以自动识别多次波浪破碎的存在和波浪恢复的发生。 相似文献