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1.
A numerical model for wave propagation in a harbour is verified by use of physical models.The extended time-dependent mild slope equation is employed as the governing equation,and the model is solved by use of ADI method containing the relaxation factor.Firstly,the reflection coefficient of waves in front of rubble-mound breakwaters under oblique incident waves is determined through physical model tests,and it is regarded as the basis for simulating partial reflection boundaries of the numerical model.Then model tests on refraction,diffraction and reflection of waves in a harbour are performed to measure wave height distribution.Comparative results between physical and numerical model tests show that the present numerical model can satisfactorily simulate the propagation of regular and irregular waves in a harbour with complex topography and boundary conditions. 相似文献
2.
Interaction Between Waves and A Comb-Type Breakwater 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：2
The characteristics of wave transmission, reflection and energy dissipation of comb-type caisson breakwaters are studied through laboratory physical model tests. Regular and irregular waves, with a wide range of wave heights and periods and a constant water depth, are considered. Different dimensions of each portion of the comb-type caisson breakwater are tested. Empirical formulae for calculating the reduction coefficient k, which is the ratio of horizontal wave force on unit length of the comb-type breakwater to that on unit length of the vertical wall breakwater, and for calculating the reflection coefficient of waves k, are obtained from the measurements. The comb-type caisson breakwater has been found to be very efficient in dissipating incident wave energy and in reducing wave reflection, and has already been used for the construction of an island breakwater in the Dayao Bay of Dalian Port, Liaoning Province, China. Compared with the cost of a common caisson breakwater, about 24. 5% of the investm 相似文献
3.
海岸波浪多次破碎波能耗散模型 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
在坡度很缓(接近或小于1∶100)的海岸，波浪在向海岸传播的过程中，可能经历多次破碎，而在两次波浪破碎之间将伴随着波浪恢复(波浪恢复到不破碎状态)。在现有海岸波高计算模型中，波浪破碎是通过波能耗散来模拟的，但所采用的波能耗散模型都不能自动考虑波浪出现多次破碎的过程，特别精确模拟这一过程中出现的波浪恢复。本文提出了解决这一问题的新的波能耗散模型，模型的建立是通过在Dally模型中重新建立稳定波能、饱和波高水深比和波能耗散系数，并引入了波浪恢复的判断条件实现的。该模型的波能耗散在波浪恢复区的值很小故能描述波浪恢复区的波浪运动。与实验结果的对比表明，新模型可以适合缓坡情况波浪多次破碎的波高模拟，而且对不同坡度的平坡和沙坝海岸(1∶100～1∶10)的破碎波模拟都可以给出与实验结果符合的结果，并且可以自动识别多次波浪破碎的存在和波浪恢复的发生。 相似文献
4.
Gu Jialong Shen Xianrong
Professor Hohai University Nanjing
Engineer The Investigation Design Institute Bureau of Communications of Zhejiang Province Hangzhou 《中国海洋工程》1991,(2)
In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches. 相似文献
5.
A numerical wave tank is used to investigate the onset and strength of unforced wave breaking, and the waves have three types of initial spectra： constant amplitude spectrum, constant steepness spectrum and Pierson-Moscowitz spectrum. Numerical tests are performed to validate the model results. Then, the onset of wave breaking is discussed with geometric, kinematic, and dynamic breaking criteria. The strength of wave breaking, which is always characterized by the fractional energy loss and breaking strength coefficient, is studied for different spectra. The results show how the energy growth rate is better than the initial wave steepness on estimating the fractional energy losses as well as breaking strength coefficient. 相似文献
6.
A numerical wave tank is used to investigate the onset and strength of unforced wave breaking, and the waves have three types of initial spectra: constant amplitude spectrum, constant steepness spectrum and Pierson-Moscowitz spectrum. Numerical tests are performed to validate the model results. Then, the onset of wave breaking is discussed with geometric, kinematic, and dynamic breaking criteria. The strength of wave breaking, which is always characterized by the fractional energy loss and breaking strength coefficient, is studied for different spectra. The results show how the energy growth rate is better than the initial wave steepness on estimating the fractional energy losses as well as breaking strength coefficient. 相似文献
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LI Xue-yan WANG Qing YOU Zai-jin GUO Wei-jun ZHANG Jun-bin ZHAN Chao ZHANG Zhi-chen WANG Li-xue LI Qin 《中国海洋工程》2020,(1):89-98
Comprehensive experimental and numerical studies have been undertaken to investigate wave energy dissipation performance and main influencing factors of a lower arc-plate breakwater. The numerical model, which considers nonlinear interactions between waves and the arc-plate breakwater, has been constructed by using the velocity wave- generating method, the volume of fluid (VOF) method and the finite volume method. The results show that the relative width, relative height and relative submergence of the breakwater are three main influencing factors and have significant influence on wave energy dissipation of the lower arc-plate open breakwater. The transmission coefficient is found to decrease with the increasing relative width, and the minimum transmission coefficient is 0.15 when the relative width is 0.45. The reflection coefficient is found to vary slightly with the relative width, and the maximum reflection coefficient is 0.53 when the relative width is 0.45. The transmission and reflection coefficients are shown to increase with the relative wave height for approximately 85% of the experimental tests when the relative width is 0.19 0.45. The transmission coefficients at relative submergences of 0.04, 0.02 and 0 are clearly shown to be greater than those at relative submergences of 0.02 and 0.04, while the reflection coefficient exhibits the opposite relationship. After the wave interacts with the lower arc-plate breakwater, the wave energy is mainly converted into transmission, reflection and dissipation energies. The wave attenuation performance is clearly weakened for waves with greater heights and longer periods. 相似文献
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利用大型水槽设计了在由深水到近岸不同坡度处海浪在变浅作用下诱导产生的长周期重力波的实验。正态随机海浪在深水生成并沿斜坡向浅水传播,记录了不同水深处波面高度随时间的变化过程并进行统计分析和谱分析。实验数据分析结果表明,长周期重力波的能量随着水深的变浅而增高,其谱锋频率位于0.2~0.3fp附近,这里fp是深水正态海浪过程的谱峰频率。长周期重力波的能量与入射波的能量比与波面高度分布的偏度密切相关。进一步分析了两种波动的能量谱峰值比和波面高度分布偏度的相关关系,获得了经验关系,为预测近岸浅水长周期重力波提供了科学依据。 相似文献
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Rayleigh expansion is used to study the water-wave interaction with a row of pile breakwater in finite water depth. Evanescent waves, the wave energy dissipated on the fluid resistance and the thickness of the breakwater are totally included in the model. The formulae of wave reflection and transmission coefficients are obtained. The accuracy of the present model is verified by a comparison with existing results. It is found that the predicted wave reflection and transmission coefficients for the zero order are all highly consistent with the experimental data (Hagiwara, 1984; Isaacson et al., 1998) and plane wave solutions (Zhu, 2011). The losses of the wave energy for the fluid passing through slits play an important role, which removes the phenomena of enhanced wave transmission. 相似文献
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CHANG Hsien-Kuo 《中国海洋工程》2002,16(4):499-511
This study presents a three-point method for separating incident and reflected waves to explain normally incident waves' propagating over a sloping bed. Linear wave shoaling is used to determine changes in wave amplitude and phase in response to variations of bathymetry. The wave reflection coefficient and incident amplitude are estimated from wave heights measured at three fixed wave gauges with unequal spacing. Sensitivity analysis demonstrates that the proposed method can predict the reflection and amplitude of waves over a sloping bed more accurately than the two-point method. 相似文献
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The hydrodynamic efficiencies of caisson-type vertical porous seawalls used for protecting coastal areas were calculated in this study. Physical models were developed to compare the wave reflection from vertical plane, semi-porous, and porous seawalls caused by both regular and random waves. Tests were carried out for a wide range of wave heights, wave periods, and different water depths (d=0.165, 0.270 and 0.375 m). The performance regarding the reflected waves from porous and semi-porous seawalls showed improvement when compared with those from the plane seawall. The reflection coefficients of the porous and semi-porous seawalls were calculated as 0.6 and 0.75, respectively, while the coefficient for the fully reflecting plane vertical wall was significantly higher (0.9). It was also observed that the reflection coefficient decreases with increase in wave steepness and relative water depth. In addition, the reduction in the reflection coefficient of porous and semi-porous seawalls, as compared to that of a plane seawall, was observed for both regular and random waves. New equations were also proposed to calculate the reflection coefficient of different types of seawalls with the aid of laboratory experiments. By verifying the developed equations using some other experimental data, it was validated that the equations could be used for practical situations. The results of the present study can be applied to optimize the design of vertical seawalls and for coastal protecting schemes. 相似文献
13.
A physical parameter, μb, which was used to meet the forcing of primary short waves to be off-resonant before wave breaking, has been considered as an applicable parameter in the infra-gravity wave generation. Since a series of modulating wave groups for different wave conditions are performed to proceed with the resonant mechanism of infra-gravity waves prior to wave breaking, the amplitude growth of incident bound long wave is assumed to be simply controlled by the normalized bed slope, βb. The results appear a large dependence of the growth rate, α, of incident bound long wave, separated by the three-array method, on the normalized bed slope, βb. High spatial resolution of wave records enables identification of the cross-correlation between squared short-wave envelopes and infra-gravity waves. The cross-shore structure of infra-gravity waves over beaches presents the mechanics of incident bound- and outgoing free long waves with the formation of free standing long waves in the nearshore region. The wave run-up and amplification of infra-gravity waves in the swash zone appear that the additional long waves generated by the breaking process would modify the cross-shore structure of free standing long waves. Finally, this paper would further discuss the contribution of long wave breaking and bottom friction to the energy dissipation of infra-gravity waves based on different slope conditions. 相似文献
14.
LI Yucheng 《中国海洋工程》2000,14(1):59-67
—An experimental study of regular wave and irregular wave breaking is performed on a gentleslope of 1:200.In the experiment,asymmetry of wave profile is analyzed to determine its effect on wavebreaker indices and to explain the difference between Goda and Nelson about the breaker indices of regu-lar waves on very mild slopes.The study shows that the breaker index of irregular waves is under less influ-ence of bottom slope i,relative water depth d/L_0 and the asymmetry of wave profile than that of regularwaves.The breaker index of regular waves from Goda may be used in the case of irregular waves, whilethe coefficient A should be 0.15.The ratio of irregular wavelength to the length calculated by linear wavetheory is 0.74.Analysis is also made on the waveheight damping coefficient of regular waves after break-ing and on the breaking probability of large irregular waves. 相似文献
15.
开孔沉箱与斜向波作用的理论研究和实验验证 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
应用透空壁内流体速度与壁两侧的压力差成正比的线性模型，研究了无限多个开孔沉箱在斜向波作用下的反射问题。整个流域被分成无限多个子域，在每个子域内应用特征函数展开法对速度势进行展开。对于沉箱内的波浪运动，根据沉箱位置引入相位差概念。在构造反射波模型时，考虑了结构物几何形状周期性的影响。结果表明，当孔隙系数无限大时，开孔墙前后的速度非常接近，反射系数符合能量守恒定律。在低频入射波作用下，沉箱越短，其反射系数越小，反射系数随着角度的变大而减小。 相似文献
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与海床不可渗透的情况相比,波浪在可渗透海床上传播时会发生波能衰减。本文将基于可渗透海床上一维修正型缓坡方程,建立方程求解的有限差分模型。将通过与不可渗透海床上矩形Bragg防波堤对波浪反射系数解析解的对比,验证有限差分模型的正确性和适用性。将进一步研究海床可渗透情况下,海床的渗透性参数、坝体的相对宽度、数量、浸没度对波浪反射系数的影响及其与海床不可渗透情况下的差异。本文研究发现,Bragg共振发生时的反射系数随坝体数量的增多而增大,随海床渗透性参数和坝体浸没度的增大而减小,并且存在一个坝体相对宽度值会使Bragg共振反射达到最大。相较于海床不可渗透的情况,发生Bragg共振反射的波浪频率几乎相同,但反射系数减小,而且零反射（或全透射）现象不再存在。 相似文献
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The interaction of diagonal waves with perforated-wall breakwater partially filled with rock fill is studied using the linear potential theory. By means of the matched eigenfunction expansion method, an analytical method is presented to calculate the reflection coefficient and the wave force coefficient of the breakwater. The calculated results of the reflection coefficient for limiting cases are the same to the existing results. The main effect factors of the reflection coefficient and the wave force coefficient are analyzed by numerical examples. With the increasing of thickness of rock fill, the wave force coefficient on the perforated wall generally decreases, while the reflection coefficient increases. With the increasing of the incident angle of the wave, the reflection coefficient of the breakwater first decreases, reaches its minimum, and then increases monotonously. 相似文献
20.
The reflection of wave energy from natural beaches is a quantity that is rarely measured. This paper addresses the question as to whether the reflected wave energy from a beach is an important component of energy flux from an engineering point of view. Wave run-up and wave set-up are important nearshore processes in which wave reflection appears to play a major role and, consequently, the prediction of reflected wave energy from the offshore forcing irregular wave train energy at natural beaches is a first step in a better understanding of these processes. The present paper reports on wave reflection measurements at two natural beaches with different characteristics. The issue of wave reflection is addressed via separation of input and output signals using coincident pressure and velocity measurements. In the present limited analysis, reflected wave energy was not found to be significant. 相似文献