共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 293 毫秒
1.
A numerical wave tank is used to investigate the onset and strength of unforced wave breaking, and the waves have three types of initial spectra: constant amplitude spectrum, constant steepness spectrum and Pierson-Moscowitz spectrum. Numerical tests are performed to validate the model results. Then, the onset of wave breaking is discussed with geometric, kinematic, and dynamic breaking criteria. The strength of wave breaking, which is always characterized by the fractional energy loss and breaking strength coefficient, is studied for different spectra. The results show how the energy growth rate is better than the initial wave steepness on estimating the fractional energy losses as well as breaking strength coefficient. 相似文献
2.
为了研究独立高斯型波群在中等水深条件下的非线性演化情况,进行了多种波况的物理试验,重点分析了波浪各要素对波群非线性演化的影响。试验结果表明,波陡在波群演化中占主导作用,其次是波群的谱宽,前者引起的非线性主要体现在高阶谐波的能量变化而后者引起的非线性主要体现在自由波能量的变化。频带下移现象只在大波陡情况下才会发生,随着波陡的增加,频带下移发生的相对更早,随着波群的谱变窄,频带下移相对越明显。波陡的增加会使得波群更早的开始分裂。大波陡的波群在演化中会发生破碎,破碎的类型以崩破为主,并且崩破是间歇发生的,连续崩破发生的距离约为1.0～1.5倍波长。此外,破碎引起的能量损耗主要来源于主频和高频成分波,耗散率约10%～18%,平均每个崩破能耗约为初始能量的2%。 相似文献
3.
4.
The substructures of offshore wind turbines are subjected to extreme breaking irregular wave forces. The present study is focused on investigating breaking irregular wave forces on a monopile using a computational fluid dynamics (CFD) based numerical model. The breaking irregular wave forces on a monopile mounted on a slope are investigated with a numerical wave tank. The experimental and numerical irregular free surface elevations are compared in the frequency-domain for the different locations in the vicinity of the cylinder. A numerical analysis is performed for different wave steepness cases to understand the influence of wave steepness on the breaking irregular wave loads. The wave height transformation and energy level evolution during the wave shoaling and wave breaking processes is investigated. The higher-frequency components generated during the wave breaking process are observed to play a significant role in initiating the secondary force peaks. The free surface elevation skewness and spectral bandwidth during the wave transformation process are analysed and an investigation is performed to establish a correlation of these parameters with the breaking irregular wave forces. The role of the horizontal wave-induced water particle velocity at the free surface and free surface pressure in determining the breaking wave loads is highlighted. The higher-frequency components in the velocity and pressure spectrum are observed to be significant in influencing the secondary peaks in the breaking wave force spectrum. 相似文献
5.
The experimental studies of the breaking effects on wave statistics for deep-water random waves are presented. It is especially focused on the behavior of kurtosis of surface elevations due to wave breaking. Wave breaking suppresses the maximum limit of kurtosis of the surface elevation, although skewness depends on characteristic wave steepness. The mean instantaneous wave steepness of breaking waves defined using the zero-down-crossing method was much lower than expected from the Stokes waves. 相似文献
6.
为了解极端波浪非线性特征,明确波群在演化过程中的水动力学特性,针对一系列高斯波群进行了深水物理试验分析。试验结果显示,增加波陡或波群宽度,均可使波面偏度Sk发生明显变化,尤其当波浪发生破碎后,在破碎区域内,波面偏度变化范围剧烈增大,说明该偏度极大值可能作为判断破碎的一个指标。波陡和波群宽度对波面不对称度影响程度不同:当波陡或波群宽度增加后,波峰不对称度所受影响最大,波峰前端波谷不对称度次之,波峰后端波谷不对称度所受影响最小,但仍不可忽略。在波浪演化过程中,幅值谱出现不同程度频带下移,波浪破碎后,会出现永久频带下移;当调制不稳定发生时,随着调制不稳定指数增加,频带下移量呈现快速增长趋势。 相似文献
7.
群发性是风浪破碎的显著特征,最近的研究表明风浪破碎研究应该基于波群而不是单个波。本文探讨破碎波群区别于非破碎波群的显著特征指标。依据一系列风浪破碎实验数据,采用多种判据与实验现场目测的破碎标记信号相结合的原则划分破碎波群与非破碎波群,考查波群特征量、单个波几何特征量、局地破碎判据指标、波包络几何特征量以及波群能量结构特征量等5大类28个指标在破碎波群与非破碎波群上的分布差异。结果表明:波陡、峰前波陡、瞬时波面斜率、运动学判据指标和动力学判据指标等在破碎非破碎波群上的分布几乎没有交叠;后两者尤为理想,分布明显分离,是破碎波群区别于非破碎波群的显著指标;而其它各指标在破碎波群非破碎波群上的分布都有不同程度的交叠,不能单独依据它们区分破碎波群与非破碎波群。 相似文献
8.
Knowledge on intermittency of wave breaking is so far limited to a few summary statistics, while the probability distribution of time interval between breaking events can provide a full view of intermittency. Based on a series of experiments on wind wave breaking, such probability distributions are investigated. Breaking waves within a wave group were taken as a single breaking event according to recent studies. Interval between successive wave groups with breaker is the focus of this paper. For intervals in our experiments with different fetch and wind conditions, their distributions are all skewed and weighted on small intervals. Results of Kolmogorov-Smirnov tests on time series of these intervals indicate that they all follow gamma distribution, and some are even exponential type. Average breaking-group-interval decreases with friction velocity and significant steepness until the wind is strong enough;most of them are more than 10 times the dominant wave period. Group breaking probability proposed by Babanin recently and the average number of breaking waves in wave groups are also discussed, and they are seemingly more reasonable and sensitive than traditional breaking probability defined in terms of single wave. 相似文献
9.
When waves propagate from deep water to shallow water, wave heights and steepness increase and then waves roll back and break. This phenomenon is called surf. Currently, the present statistical calcula... 相似文献
10.
海岸波浪多次破碎波能耗散模型 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
在坡度很缓(接近或小于1∶100)的海岸，波浪在向海岸传播的过程中，可能经历多次破碎，而在两次波浪破碎之间将伴随着波浪恢复(波浪恢复到不破碎状态)。在现有海岸波高计算模型中，波浪破碎是通过波能耗散来模拟的，但所采用的波能耗散模型都不能自动考虑波浪出现多次破碎的过程，特别精确模拟这一过程中出现的波浪恢复。本文提出了解决这一问题的新的波能耗散模型，模型的建立是通过在Dally模型中重新建立稳定波能、饱和波高水深比和波能耗散系数，并引入了波浪恢复的判断条件实现的。该模型的波能耗散在波浪恢复区的值很小故能描述波浪恢复区的波浪运动。与实验结果的对比表明，新模型可以适合缓坡情况波浪多次破碎的波高模拟，而且对不同坡度的平坡和沙坝海岸(1∶100～1∶10)的破碎波模拟都可以给出与实验结果符合的结果，并且可以自动识别多次波浪破碎的存在和波浪恢复的发生。 相似文献
11.
The evolution and breaking of a propagating internal wave are directly numerically simulated using a pseudo-spectral method. The mechanism of PSI （ parametric subharmonic instability） involved in the evolution is testified clearly. It dominates gradually in nonlinear resonant interactions. As a consequence, the energy cascades to a second plant wave packet which has lower frequencies and higher wavenumbers than that of the primary wave. With the growth of this wave packet, wave breaking occurs and causes strongly nonlinear regime, i.e. stratified turbulence. The strong mixing and intermittent of the turbulence can be learned from the evolution of the total energy and kurtosis of vorticity vs. time. Some statistic properties of the stratified turbulence are also analyzed, including the spectra of KE （kinetic energy） and PE （potential energy）. The results show that the PE spectra display a wavenumber range scaling as 0. 2 N^4ky^-3 （N is the Brunt - Vaisala frequency, k, is the vertical wavenumber）, which is called buoyancy sub-range. However, the KE spectra cannot satisfy the negative cubic law of vertical wavenumber, which have a much larger downtrend than that of the PE spectra, for the potential energy is transferred more efficiently toward small scales than the kinetic energy. The Cox number of diapycnal diffusivity is also calculated, and it shows a good consistency with the observations and deductions in the ocean interior, during the stage of the stratified turbulence maintaining a fairly active level. 相似文献
12.
对近破波作用下沉箱式防波堤的运动特性进行了模型实验研究。实验中测量了沉箱模型与基床的摩擦系数、基床刚度和阻尼系数;不同水位情况下作用于沉箱模型上的近破波波压力时程;近破波作用下沉箱模型的位移和转角响应时程等,并与数学模型计算结果进行了比较分析。实验结果表明,若沉箱的滑移力大于沉箱与基床间的摩擦力,在连续波浪作用下,沉箱将连续出现间歇式滑移运动,数学模型可较好地模拟这一运动过程。 相似文献
13.
波浪破碎过程产生的湍流动量和能量垂向输运对于加快海洋上混合层中垂向混合具有显著效果。采用二维实验室水槽中对波浪破碎过程进行模拟。对采集的波浪振幅时间序列采用希尔伯特变换定位破碎波位置,波浪的破碎率随有效波高的增加而增大,波浪谱分析得到的波浪基本周期与有效周期结果相似。实验中采用粒子图像测速技术(particle image velocimetry, PIV)计算波浪破碎过程中湍动能耗散率的空间分布。湍流强度与波浪的相位密切相关,波峰位置处湍流活动最为剧烈,而且波峰位置处湍流混合区内湍动能耗散率量值的垂向分布基本保持不变,即出现"湍流饱和"现象,湍流影响深度可以达到波高的70%—90%。计算湍流扩散系数的垂向分布发现,湍流扩散在混合区上部随深度的增大以指数函数的形式增加,在混合区下部趋于稳定。作为对比,在相同位置处对声学多普勒流速测量仪(acoustic Doppler velocimeter, ADV)测量的单点流速做频谱分析,发现与该位置处PIV湍动能耗散率结果量级处于同一水平,进一步验证了实验结果的准确性。 相似文献
14.
Li Yucheng 《海洋学报(英文版)》1996,15(2):261-272
Ｔｈｅｗａｖｅｔｒａｎｓｆｏｒｍａｔｉｏｎａｎｄｂｒｅａｋｉｎｇｐｈｅｎｏｍｅｎａｉｎｓｈａｌｌｏｗｗａｔｅｒ￥ＬｉＹｕｃｈｅｎｇ（１．ＤａｌｉａｎＵｎｉｖｅｒｓｉｔｙｏｆＴｅｃｈｎｏｌｏｇｙ，Ｄａｌｉａｎ１１６０２３，Ｃｈｉｎａ）Ａｂｓｔｒａｃｔ：... 相似文献
15.
低频长波对港湾共振、泥沙输运、波浪爬高与越浪等过程有重要影响。采用非静压模型SWASH模拟了不规则波在浅滩上的传播及破碎过程,重点探讨了滩顶短波破碎程度对低频波能演变的影响。模拟结果显示,当滩顶短波处于临界破碎状态时,低频波能流沿浅滩持续增长,浅滩对低频长波的放大效应（滩后与滩前低频波能流之比）显著;当滩顶短波轻微破碎、破波仅发生在外破波区时,低频波能流的沿滩增长率进一步变大;当滩顶短波剧烈破碎、破波延续到内破波区时,低频波能流沿滩先增长而后转为衰减,滩后放大率较临界破碎时明显减小。研究结果表明,浅滩顶部水深改变了短波破碎程度,进而影响低频长波的演化过程,浅滩上长波总体增长率随滩顶水深的减小呈现先增大后减小的规律,在短波轻微破碎时最大。 相似文献
16.
A nearshore wave breaking model 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
ＡｎｅａｒｓｈｏｒｅｗａｖｅｂｒｅａｋｉｎｇｍｏｄｅｌＬｉＳｈａｏｗｕ,ＷａｎｇＳｈａｎｇｙｉ,ＴｏｍｏｙａＳｈｉｂａｙａｍａ（ＲｅｃｅｉｕｅｄＯｃｔｏｂｅｒ８,１９９６;ａｃｃｅｐｔｅｄＦｅｂｒｕａｒｙ２６,１９９７）Ａｂｓｔｒａｃｔ－Ａｗａｖｅｂ... 相似文献
17.
18.
19.
20.
基于一系列实验室风浪破碎实验,讨论破碎波群间隔的统计分布。实验时风速分别设定在6～9 m/s间几个不同的风速水平,破碎波群间隔定义为两个相继发生破碎的波群中破碎首发时刻之间的时间间隔,破碎依据波面信号和实验者同步记录的破碎标记信号判别,分布拟合检验采用Kolmogorov-Smirnov检验。数据分析结果表明:1)所有实验信号的破碎波群间隔都服从Gamma分布;2)低风速情形的破碎波群间隔大多服从指数分布——Gamma分布的一种特殊情形;3)相同实验条件下的破碎波群间隔具有相同的分布。这意味着破碎波群的发生可以视为一种更新过程。 相似文献