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1.
水下沙丘形态演化的数值模拟实验   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
杜晓琴  高抒 《海洋学报》2012,34(4):121-134
水下沙丘在海洋、湖泊、河流等浅水砂质沉积区广泛分布。基于过程的数值实验方法探讨了沙丘形态演化问题,试图解释在沙丘形成过程中各因素的作用及它们之间的关系。模拟中考虑了以下的变量:水深、沉积物粒度、沉积层厚度以及台风作用。模拟结果显示,沙丘的空间分布控制了空间流场的参数k2,沙丘波高受水深、沉积物粒度以及沉积层厚度等因素的影响,沉积层厚度决定了沙丘的形态是否饱满。在台风作用中,沙丘波峰的沉积物被侵蚀,高程降低,波高渐小;台风作用后,沉积物被重新输运至波峰,沙丘高度逐渐恢复。因此,沙丘的高度取决于台风作用的时间以及2次台风作用之间的间隔。沙丘形态和尺度在台风作用前后变化较小,但沙丘演化的速度却有所提高。根据台湾浅滩和北海南部地貌系统数据的验证,模拟具有较好的效果。  相似文献   

2.
南海北部湾东部海域表层沉积物地球化学特征   总被引:2,自引:1,他引:1  
通过对南海北部湾东部海域61 个站位表层沉积物粒度和地球化学组成的相关分析和因子分析,探讨了其空间分布特征、元素相关性以及元素组合特征, 揭示了元素在区域上的分布规律和主控因素。结果表明: 绝大多数常微量元素具有相似的平面分布特征, 而MnO、Zr、CaO 和Sr 空间变异系数较大,在部分区域出现了异常高值, 表明其沉积环境受到正常陆源沉积以外其他因素的影响。元素和Al2O3的比值分布特征表明, 广西和海南岛近岸沉积物主要由陆源碎屑沉积组成, 在潮汐和近岸径流作用下,由近岸向远海输送; 而研究区西部海域沉积物主要为来自红河的物质。元素相关分析和因子分析结果表明, 研究区表层沉积物中绝大多数常微量元素主要受沉积物粒度的控制; CaO 和Sr 含量主要受生物活动活跃程度控制; Zr 含量分布主要受控于源区母岩矿物组成以及自源区的搬运距离; 而MnO 含量则受陆源、海底热液以及自生作用等多种来源共同影响。  相似文献   

3.
为对辽东湾觉华岛附近海域海底工程地质环境进行系统评估,利用高分辨海底声学探测设备获取调查海区的精密水深地形数据,利用筛析法、激光粒度仪实验法确定沉积物类型及粒度参数特征,最终综合分析得到研究区海底地形地貌及沉积物分布特征。研究发现,目标海域测量水深介于4~22m之间,平均水深15m左右,海底地形平坦,整体表现为平缓的近岸缓坡,地貌以近岸粉砂淤泥质浅滩地貌为主,局部发育微型海底沙波;海底浅地层第一声学反射界面清楚连续,可全区追踪,穿透深度0.5~5m不等,沉积物厚度相对稳定;表层沉积物中值粒径普遍较小,沉积物类型东区以粉砂和砂质粉砂为主,西区以砂质粉砂为主;表层沉积物组分和粒度参数的空间变化规律较为复杂,分析认为其主要受到沉积物物源以及辽东湾内往复流、沿岸流的影响。。  相似文献   

4.
利用2004年4月所采集的104个表层沉积物样品粒度分析资料及实测水文数据,探讨了空间上黄河三角洲飞雁滩表层沉积物对潮流及波浪等水动力的响应过程,以及该区域表层沉积物的输移趋势和补给来源问题。结果表明:(1)该区潮流掀沙作用范围包括潮沟前部约8~12 m水深和1~5 m水深内水下潮沟区域,以及海堤前部1.7~17 m水深范围,而对于波浪动力作用,其掀沙范围除受沉积物空间分布格局控制外,还取决于其波能的大小和实际水深,且该区所能够承受最大波浪波高不超过3 m;(2)该区域沉积物补给来源主要为波浪动力尤其是大风浪引起的风暴潮所起动并导致其离岸输移的潮间带甚至潮上带较细颗粒泥沙;(3)总体上,除潮沟入口处外,该区域表层沉积物以离岸输移为主。  相似文献   

5.
雷刚  蔡锋 《台湾海峡》2005,24(3):395-403,i0003
利用福建长乐江田下沙砂质海滩台风前后两次野外调查资料,探讨了该处沙滩地貌和沉积物组合分布的基本特征;初步研究了该处沙滩对0418号台风“艾利”的响应模式.研究结果表明,下沙沙滩剖面沉积物以细砂和中细砂为主,台风前后采集的18个样品中,细砂6个,占总样品量的33%;中细砂11个,占总样品量的61%.沉积物结构上具有三维均匀性,沉积特征单一.剖面地形具有典型的夷直海岸特点,前滨滩面宽阔平坦,后滨沙丘带发育,岸线平直.受台风“艾利”作用,剖面后滨和高潮带遭受严重侵蚀,后滨低沙丘带平均蚀退超过6m,并出现高度为0.5~1.0m间的直立侵蚀陡坎.海滩沉积物对台风的响应相对较弱,台风过后剖面表层沉积物的平均粒径(Mz)均值由2.48变为2.39,粒度稍有变大;分选系数(σi)平均值由0.52变为0.63,分选稍有变差;偏度(Ski)平均值由-0.02变为0.01,峰态(Kg)平均值由0.96变为1.13;偏度和峰度没有明显变化.剖面底层沉积物对0418号台风“艾利”的响应特征与表层沉积物的沉积响应相似.  相似文献   

6.
研究台风影响下的海滩沉积过程不仅可加深极端海况下的海滩冲淤变化理解,而且有利于海滩资源的保护与海岸工程保护。以强潮海滩——北海银滩为例,通过采集北部湾海区1409号威马逊超强台风作用前后的沉积物、剖面高程及水文资料,探讨强潮海滩的动力沉积过程。结果表明:1)台风作用前后的海滩沙丘-滩肩-沙坝体系的地貌状态基本不变,其中沉积物组分均为砂,细砂、极细砂和中砂三组分平均含量占所有组分的95%以上;与台风作用前比较,台风后的地貌在维持先前形态的条件下,发生局部侵蚀和后退,沉积物相对变粗且细砂含量增加了10%。2)台风作用后后滨沙丘侵蚀,且沉积物滚动组分增加;冲流带和滩肩前缘沉积物的搬运由双跳跃转为单一的跳跃形式。3)台风作用前后的海滩沉积物主要变化过程可由两个模态表征,其中主要模式反映了台风作用前后的海滩以细砂为主的动力沉积变化特征,该模式受控于区域波浪和潮汐的长期耦合作用,并以波浪为主导因素。台风作用前的次要模式反映潮汐作用控制下的海滩沉积横向振荡特征;台风作用后的次要模式表征了台风影响下的海滩横向沉积物偏粗、冲流带-低潮带振荡及其沉积分异过程。  相似文献   

7.
台湾浅滩海底沙波精细特征、分类与分布规律   总被引:2,自引:2,他引:0  
迄今由于缺乏高精度的实测水深数据,对台湾浅滩沙波的精细结构缺乏详细的阐述。本文基于多波束实测资料研究台湾浅滩沙波形态的精细特征及其分布规律。多波束探测结果显示:研究区沙波的平均波高达到13.5m,沙波波峰处水深为20.42m,沙波平均波高约为水深的2/3,沙波的波长大多数处于500~700m之间。研究区内主要发育3种类型的沙波,即摆线型沙波、余弦型沙波和双峰型沙波。研究区西部主要发育双峰型沙波,中部则主要发育余弦型和摆线型沙波,而东部主要发育摆线型沙波,整个区域以摆线型沙波为主。海平面波动、台湾海峡复杂的水动力条件以及台湾岛丰富的山溪河流携带的大量沉积物进入海峡,对浅滩区的沙波具有强烈的改造作用。  相似文献   

8.
通过对海洋天然气水合物双BSR控制因素的了解,结合南海实际情况,认为双BSR主要存在于生物气和热解气气源充足的海区。按照Sloan的CSMHYD程序分别计算了不同盐度、不同水深条件下双BSR之间的厚度差,结果发现沉积物盐度的影响作用较小,而水深的影响作用较大,表现为双BSR之间的厚度差随水深的增加而减小,因此,推测水深是控制双BSR分布的一个重要因素。  相似文献   

9.
海底沙波常见于潮流作用较强的内陆架海域,是一种脊线与潮流流向垂直的微地貌形态,一般在40~100 cm/s的流速形成。沙波既可大面积自成体系,也可分布在沙脊的坡面上,呈不对称形态。泥沙的粒度、沉积物供给以及水深[1]等因素对海底沙波的发育都有影响。  相似文献   

10.
陆架海岸台风沉积记录及信息提取   总被引:3,自引:2,他引:1  
长时间尺度风暴强度–频率关系与气候变化相关联,而器测记录和历史记载难以提供充分的信息,因此从沉积记录中提取风暴信息成为一个前沿科学问题。在应用上,这项研究可为海岸带城市群应对未来气候和海面变化提供决策依据。本文回顾了台风沉积记录研究进展,显示陆架泥质沉积、海滩及海岸沙丘、潮滩、潟湖、巨砾是台风事件记录的良好载体,可通过层序形态和物质特性分析而识别。同时,还需进一步完善分析方法,以区分台风、冬季风暴、河流洪水和海啸等不同类型的极端事件沉积。在台风强度信息提取方面,陆架泥质沉积所含贝壳–粗颗粒沉积物可作为海底再悬浮强度的指标,但需更多实测数据的率定;海滩及海岸沙丘顶部的台风沉积分布高程指示了台风激浪流的上冲高度,而台风巨砾的重量可以与近岸波浪的波高建立联系。以上数据经过换算后可以得出台风强度的信息,虽然这些间接的沉积学信息还不足以建立风暴强度–频率关系,但有助于台风强度大数据的建立。潮滩、潟湖沉积连续性好,可构成台风事件的时间序列,然而关于台风强度却是多解的,台风最大风力、持续时间、移动路径、登陆地点的不同组合可能产生同样的事件沉积。我们建议,应发展台风信息提取的新方法,来解决这个问题。进行现代过程模拟,根据已知的台风事件资料构建沉积物输运堆积模型,使之能够复演事件沉积的特征;进行多个地点事件沉积的反演模拟,在此情形下,即便每个站位的结果是多解的,但针对多个站位上求取其解的交集之后,多解性将下降,这种模拟方法可称之为“解空间收缩法”;采用大数据融合方式,将其他来源的台风强度数据纳入模拟体系,可进一步降低风暴信息提取的不确定性。动力过程模拟与大数据融合方法的建立,有助于获得与沉积记录同样时间尺度的台风强度–频率关系曲线,进而分析台风动态与气候变化的关系。  相似文献   

11.
The size (wavelength and height) and the factors influencing the characteristics of subaqueous dunes in the river Scheldt between Antwerp and the Belgian-Dutch border were studied. More than 60 dune clusters (each cluster represented by a mean height and wavelength of mostly 10 to 20 or more observations) were analysed. A very good exponential correlation between dune height and wavelength was observed (r=0.90) which can be described by H mean=0.0321L 0.918. Length/depth ratios vary between 0.2 and 9, height/depth ratios between 0.25 and 0.01. There was no clear relationship between current velocity and dune size, as dunes of various sizes co-exist at the same current velocities. Twenty-two dunes were sampled and show grain sizes (d50) ranging between 0.1 and 0.7 mm. Seven out of eight large scale dune fields were found in sandy and/or hard bottom (gravel, coarse sand and shell fragments) environments, whereas small and medium dunes were found in muddy sand and sandy mud environments.  相似文献   

12.
A study of the evolution of North Padre Island (southern Texas Gulf Coast) dunes was carried out using LIDAR topographic data, dune vibracores through the center of the dunes, and grab samples of shoreface sand at four locations along a cross-shore profile. Grain-size analyses of the vibracores show vertical variations in shoreface sand deposition over decimeter depth intervals. A dune ridge growth model is introduced that describes the dune vertical accretion rate as a function of island progradation and freshwater lens expansion. This model allows indirect dating of the dune core samples based on a known island progradation rate (1?m/year), and height and spacing of the dunes calculated from the topographic data. A sand provenance model is also proposed that links the sand deposition in the dunes with sand sourced from various depths along the shoreface profile, depending on storm activity. We present evidence linking the changes in storm-sand deposition in the dune cores with yearly climatic fluctuations in the Gulf of Mexico associated with landfalling tropical storm activity in the period from 1942?C1965. This record of storm-induced sand variability is negatively correlated with El Ni?o-Southern Oscillation (Pacific) sea surface temperature variability, and positively correlated with North Atlantic decadal sea surface temperature variability.  相似文献   

13.
Altogether three coastal dune fields, one located north and two south of the city of Essaouira, Atlantic Morocco, have been investigated to establish the distribution and overall sand volumes of various dune types. The purpose of the study was to characterize and classify the aeolian landforms of the coastal dune belt, to estimate their sand volumes and to assess the effectiveness of coastal dune stabilization measures. The northern dune field is 9 km long and lined by a wide artificial foredune complex fixed by vegetation, fences and branches forming a rectangular grid. Active and ephemeral aklé dunes border the inner backshore, while some intrusive dunes have crossed the foredune belt and are migrating farther inland. The total sand volume of the northern dune belt amounts 13,910,255 m3. The central coastal sector comprises a much smaller dune field located just south of the city. It is only 1.2 km long and, with the exception of intrusive dunes, shows all other dune types. The overall sand volume of the central dune field amounts to about 172,463 m3. The southern dune field is characterized by a narrower foredune belt and overall lower dunes that, in addition, become progressively smaller towards the south. In this sector, embryonic dunes (coppice, shadow dunes), tongue-like and tabular dunes, and sand sheets intrude from the beach, the profile of which has a stepped appearance controlled by irregular outcrops of old aeolianite and beach rock. The total volume of the southern dune field amounts 1,446,389 m3. For the whole study area, i.e. for all three dune fields combined, a sand volume of about 15,529,389 m3 has been estimated. The sand of the dune fields is derived from coastal erosion and especially the Tensift River, which enters the sea at Souira Qedima some 70 km north of Essaouira. After entering the sea, the sand is transported southwards by littoral drift driven by the mainly north-westerly swell climate and the Trade Winds blowing from the NNE. This sand feeds the beaches along the coast, from where it is blown obliquely onshore to generate the dune fields. The maximum sand input occurs in the north, from where it gradually decreases southwards, this being also reflected in the grain size and dune typologies. The study shows that dune stabilization measures have been reasonably effective along most of the coast, with the exception of a large area immediately north of Essaouira where the almost complete destruction of the plant cover has reactivated sand mobility—this may in the future threaten the city.  相似文献   

14.
西地中海加的斯湾、埃布罗湾、巴塞罗那岸外和利翁湾等外陆架和陆坡上部分布大片的砂质水下沙丘、沙带、沙脊以及沙席等砂质底形。沙丘长为150~760m,最长为3km;高一般为0.1~5.0m,最高为20m。背流坡指向SW,丘长与丘高相关斜率为H=0.934L0.006 3,低于1978年世界标准的F氏斜率线;沙脊长为4~24km,宽为1~2.3km,高出海底10~30m。砂层厚约12~30m,其成因与冰消期古岸线相关。以水深350m的直布罗陀海峡为中心,大西洋低盐水团和地中海高盐水团相交换而形成的地中海环流是导致海底砂质底形发育的主要动力,陆架外侧普遍分布的垂岸沟谷及顺谷流也起一定作用。据14C年代测定,大型沙丘沙脊形成于距今13~11ka的冰消期,当时海面波动式趋稳。现代洋流只能在暴风浪期间、底流速较大时才能带动泥沙运动且进行局部修饰、破坏和蚀低原砂质底形。  相似文献   

15.
Numerous studies have shown that most beaches and coastal dune systems of the world are currently eroding but very few have investigated the combined sediment budgets of subaerial and nearshore submarine systems. In the case of the dune field of the Maspalomas Natural Special Reserve (in the south of Gran Canaria), the adjacent Maspalomas and El Inglés beaches and the adjacent submarine platform, the sediment budgets have been severely affected by erosion over the past few decades. The objectives of this study were to investigate the availability of sand within the modern sedimentary system, including the coastal dunes, the beaches and the submerged shelf, but also to assess local sediment sinks. An isopach map generated on the basis of topo-bathymetric data and seismic-reflection profiles revealed that sediment thickness varies from 0–22 m in the study area. Expanses of relatively low sediment thickness were identified in the south-western sector of the coastal dune field along Maspalomas beach, and in the nearshore region to the south of this beach. These localized sediment-deficit areas earmark Maspalomas beach as the most vulnerable shore strip threatened by erosion. The shallow seismic data also revealed that the submarine platform south of Maspalomas represents a marine terrace cut into an ancient alluvial fan, thus documenting an influence of the geomorphological heritage on the present-day morphodynamics. A side-scan sonar mosaic of this nearshore platform enabled the delimitation of areas covered by rock, boulders and gravel, vegetated sand patches and a mobile sand facies, the latter including ripple and megaripple fields. The megaripple field in a valley close to the talus of the marine terrace has been identified as a major sediment sink of the Maspalomas sedimentary system. It is fed by south-westerly storm-wave events. The sediment deficit in the coastal dune field and along Maspalomas beach can therefore only be explained by a currently faster loss of sediment to an offshore sink than can be compensated by the supply of sand from outside the system.  相似文献   

16.
七里海有中国第一大潟湖之称,多数学者认为七里海外的海岸沙丘群是在滨外沙坝的基础上发育形成的。研究认为,七里海外的海岸沙丘群是在末次冰期时期风成沙丘群的基础上演化形成的继承性沙丘综合体。七里海也不是科学意义上的潟湖,它没有形成海岸沙坝这一潟湖形成的过程,其前身是晚更新世末期由风暴活动形成的风蚀洼地。应加强七里海外海岸沙丘群的形成、发育类型及演化过程的研究,从多角度探究七里海外海岸沙丘群的演化机理和发育趋势。  相似文献   

17.
Hydraulic roughness over simple subaqueous dunes   总被引:2,自引:1,他引:1  
Detailed studies of flow over subaqueous dunes in laboratory flumes were used to suggest a virtual near-bed layer of twice the dune height in which the mean velocity is accelerated towards the crest by contraction. The mean flow velocity in this layer above the crest, transformed into friction velocity by means of the surface skin roughness, is shown to give values consistent with measured values. The resulting dimensionless shear stress due to skin friction is depth-independent, in contrast to that derived by means of often cited traditional methods. As a result of the relationship between dune height and the thickness of the near-bed layer, an expression for the expansion loss behind dunes was formulated and used to relate form resistance directly to dune height.  相似文献   

18.
In the course of two regional side-scan sonar surveys on the continental shelf off southern Vietnam after the winter monsoon seasons of 2003 and 2004, and covering a total distance of over 1,000 km, the widespread occurrence of large and very large subaqueous dunes was discovered. On the basis of their size, shape, depth of occurrence and orientation, the dunes were grouped into five spatially distinct regions. In each case, a different height/wavelength relationship is observed. With the exception of region no. 3 where dune dimensions follow the mean global trend, the dimensions in the other regions lie below the mean global trend. The most plausible explanation for this is sediment starvation and/or insufficient time for the larger dunes to fully adjust to changing flow conditions. A good correlation is observed between average dune height in each region and water depth, although this is not the case for dune length. The orientation of the dunes corresponds to the direction of the current pattern induced by the regional winter monsoon winds (NE to SW and S). The generally well-developed asymmetrical shapes and the large size of the dunes suggest that the wind-induced currents are strong enough to reactivate most of the dunes during the winter monsoon season, a conclusion supported also by theoretical calculations of critical current velocities. The largest dunes, which seem to have reached their maximum sizes for the local water depths, may not be reactivated regularly but rather only by exceptionally strong episodic flows.  相似文献   

19.
文章从岬湾海滩、岬角沙丘以及岬角沙丘过路输沙的概念出发,引出岬角沙丘过路输沙的概念模式,总结岬角沙丘过路输沙的常用研究方法和研究现状,指出岬角-海滩-沙丘系统在海岸带输沙中的重要作用;针对我国海岸风沙地貌研究的现状,提出应加快海岸风沙资源现状调查、加强海岸风沙地貌过程研究以及协调海岸风沙地貌资源开发利用与修复保护,为我国海岸沙丘相关研究明确方向。  相似文献   

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