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1.
根据现场地形在港池中建立三维珊瑚礁?潟湖?裂口海岸定床整体物理模型,采用波高传感器、流速仪和表面流速测量系统分别测量了规则波作用下珊瑚礁海岸不同位置的波浪和流场特征。结果表明:礁坪上,波高在向岸方向逐渐减小,总减小幅度为86.7%,增水先增大后减小,沿礁坪下降幅度为65.9%,水流以向岸流为主,存在着先增大后减小的趋势;潟湖中,波高靠近裂口处较大,中部最大值约为两侧最小值的2.8倍,增水则靠近裂口处最小,相比两侧最大值下降了25.5%,水流主要为对称地指向裂口的沿岸流,流速从两侧到裂口先增大后减小;裂口中波高变化不大,增水在靠近潟湖处最大,为礁坪上增水的47.6%,水流主要为离岸流,流速同样是先增大后减小。量化分析了环流驱动力、辐射应力与波面压力梯度的空间变化规律,发现礁坪上向岸流变化是平均水位梯度和辐射应力相互作用的结果,在裂口中的离岸流驱动力主要为辐射应力,而潟湖中的沿岸流变化由平均水位梯度决定的。 相似文献
2.
珊瑚礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流实验研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
为了研究珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流特性,通过水槽实验对规则波浪作用下珊瑚岸礁上沿礁分布的水位和流速进行了详细的测量。在典型卷破波条件下,测试了礁冠存在与不存在的两种情况。实验结果表明,多重波浪反射作用引起岸礁上形成不完全驻波,而破碎带附近的浅化作用则产生高次谐波,波浪破碎所耗散的波能主要来源于主频波,礁坪上透射波成分中二次谐波与主频波的能量相当;礁冠的存在引起破碎带宽度减小、礁坪上增水变大以及礁坪上各次谐波变小;礁冠不存在时,岸礁上波生流的沿礁分布与平直海岸相似,而礁冠的存在一定程度上阻碍了礁坪上水体向外海的回流。研究成果将丰富和发展珊瑚礁水动力学理论,并为岛礁工程的建设和维护提供一定的理论参考。 相似文献
3.
通过在波浪水槽中采用概化的珊瑚岸礁物理模型来研究珊瑚礁海岸附近波浪增水的变化规律,包括平均自由表面的沿礁变化以及礁坪上的最大增水值。物理模型实验分别测试了不同礁面糙率密度影响下的一系列不规则波工况。结果分析表明:礁面粗糙时礁坪上的透射波高和最大增水值均相对于礁面光滑时减小;通过两个无量纲参数分析表明光滑礁面时,礁坪上最大增水随波要素的变化规律与此前研究数据基本吻合,前人研究推荐的无量纲数■和■需考虑礁面粗糙度的影响;礁面粗糙程度不同时,礁坪上的透射波高随礁面糙率密度的增大而减小,礁坪上的最大波浪增水则随之增大;最后通过沿水深积分对波浪求平均的水平一维动量方程解释了本实验的观测现象。 相似文献
4.
通过在波浪水槽中进行一系列物理模型实验, 研究珊瑚礁礁坪宽度变化对珊瑚礁海岸附近波浪传播变形及礁坪上波浪增水的影响。物理实验采用理想化的珊瑚礁模型, 测试了3种礁坪宽度下的一系列不规则波工况。实验结果分析表明: 波浪沿礁传播过程中, 短波持续衰减; 低频长波波高沿礁逐渐增大, 直到海岸线附近达到最大; 随着礁坪宽度的增加, 海岸线附近的短波波高呈下降趋势, 低频长波波高的变化规律不显著; 礁坪上的波浪增水受礁坪宽度变化的影响不明显; 通过对海岸线附近的波浪进行频谱分析发现, 礁坪上低频长波的运动存在着一阶共振模式, 且共振放大效应强度受礁坪水深、入射波峰周期和礁坪宽度共同影响。 相似文献
5.
江苏西洋海域潮流流速剖面参数的相位分析 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
正确地了解潮流流速、水深、粗糙长度,摩阻流速等随时间变化过程的相位关系,对研究浅海潮流的特性有重要的作用.在总结了潮流摩阻流速确定方法的基础上,对江苏西洋海域的实测资料进行了流速剖面参数计算和相位分析,得出结论:①浅海潮流的摩阻流速达到最大值时间要早于平均流速,并从理论上得到验证;②受海底潮流紊动切应力的影响,从表层到底层的流速沿水深随时间变化,底层的最大流速到达时间比上层及表层的要稍微提前;③在一个潮周期中,达到最大值的时间是先摩阻流速和粗糙长度,然后是流速,最后是水深. 相似文献
6.
通过在波浪水槽中采用概化的珊瑚岸礁物理模型来研究珊瑚礁海岸附近波浪增水的变化规律,包括平均自由表面的沿礁变化以及礁坪上的最大增水值。物理模型实验分别测试了不同礁面糙率密度影响下的一系列不规则波工况。结果分析表明:礁面粗糙时礁坪上的透射波高和最大增水值均相对于礁面光滑时减小;通过两个无量纲参数分析表明光滑礁面时,礁坪上最大增水随波要素的变化规律与此前研究数据基本吻合,前人研究推荐的无量纲数■和■需考虑礁面粗糙度的影响;礁面粗糙程度不同时,礁坪上的透射波高随礁面糙率密度的增大而减小,礁坪上的最大波浪增水则随之增大;最后通过沿水深积分对波浪求平均的水平一维动量方程解释了本实验的观测现象。 相似文献
7.
本文通过波浪水槽试验研究了大糙率礁面影响下波浪沿礁的演化和爬高规律，测试了一系列规则波工况并对比了光滑礁面和粗糙礁面的情况。结果分析表明：二次谐波是礁坪上透射波的重要组成成分，粗糙礁面使主频波和二次谐波减小，对更高阶波的影响不显著；相对礁坪水深是描述礁坪上波浪透射的关键参数，礁面从光滑变为粗糙时海岸附近透射系数显著减小，能量衰减系数平均增大了8%，但礁前反射系数与礁面糙率之间无明显关系；礁后岸滩爬高随着透射波高的增大而增长，最后拟合了本文试验条件下珊瑚礁大糙率礁面预测规则波爬高的关系式。 相似文献
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9.
通过波浪水槽实验对大糙率礁面存在下珊瑚礁海岸附近规则波非线性特征参数(偏度、不对称度和厄塞尔数)的变化规律进行了研究。实验采用圆柱体阵列来模拟礁面的粗糙度,测试了一系列规则波工况。结果表明:偏度、不对称度和厄塞尔数的幅值分别在珊瑚礁破碎带结束位置、破碎带内和破碎带开始位置达到最大。3个参数的幅值均随着入射波波高的增大而增大;偏度值随着波浪周期的增大而减小,不对称度幅值和厄塞尔数随着周期的增大而增大;偏度值随着礁坪水深的增大而增大,不对称度幅值和厄塞尔数随着礁坪水深的增大而减小。深水厄塞尔数可以用来描述礁坪上波浪非线性参数的变化,最后给出了用其预测礁坪上3个非线性特征参数的经验关系式。 相似文献
10.
基于礁坪上高分辨率的波浪测量,通过波浪水槽试验分析了短波、低频长波、平均水位、波形参数和非线性参数的沿礁变化规律,重点探讨礁坪中部存在人工采掘坑对上述波浪传播变形特征的影响,并与无坑的情况进行对比。研究表明:当人工采掘坑存在时,短波波高在坑前和坑内分别增大和减小,在礁后岸滩附近却无显著变化;低频长波波高在坑附近变化不大,在岸滩附近却略微减小;波浪增水在坑和岸滩附近均无显著变化。采掘坑存在的情况下,波浪的偏度和不对称度在坑附近分别减小和增大,而厄塞尔数在坑附近却几乎不变。相关性分析发现低频长波的产生机理几乎不受采掘坑的影响,采掘坑的存在增加了低频长波的反射,破坏了礁坪的共振模式,从而使低频长波在岸滩附近有所削弱。 相似文献
11.
Li Jiufa 《海洋学报(英文版)》1991,10(1):117-127
The Nanhui tidal flat is located in the area of slow current where the ebb currents from the Changjiang Estuaryand the Hangzhou Bay converge and the flood current from the sea diverges into the estuary and the bay. The flat extends seaward in tongue shape and has a wide and gentle surface with a marked difference of tidal levels on its two sides, which results in the sediment longitudinal transport on the flat. The water-sediment conditions are diverse at different locations. The velocity and sediment concentration in intertidal zone are higher during the flood tide than those during the ebb tide. The net sediment transport is landward, resulting in a large amount of deposition of sediments on the shoal. However, the ebb current is the dominant one in deep-water area where the net sediment transport is seaward. There exist two circulation systems in plane view on the shoal and in its adjacent deep-water area, which results in the sediment exchanges between the flat and channel and between the estuary an 相似文献
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13.
Tidal Flat Morphodynamic Processes of the Yangtze Estuary and Their Engineering Implications 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
YANG Shilun 《中国海洋工程》2000,14(3):307-320
—The intertidal flats are classified as"attached bar"."spit"and"isolated bar"in relation to theland.and"broad flat","sharp bank"and"eroded cliff"according to the shape of the cross-shore profile.Tidal currents on the flat are basically back and forth along the river channel banks but gyratory on theseaward side of the Chongming Island.The flow velocity on the intertidal flat is gradually reduced with in-creasing elevation.The river discharge strengthens ebb flows and modifies current asymmetry especiallyon the lower flat in neap tide.although hydrodynamics over the tidal flat is tide-dominated.The waveheight on the tidal flat is normally limited to a few decimeters although it changes with water depth.slopeand wind.Suspended sediment concentration over the tidal flat is typically hundreds to thousands ofmg/l.Although the delta has grown rapidly in history.the rate of growth is different in different periods.A maximum advancing rate of 330m/a was recently found in the central part of the river mouth towa 相似文献
14.
Coastal wetlands such as salt marshes and mangroves provide valuable ecosystem services including coastal protection. Many studies have assessed the influence of plant traits and wave conditions on vegetation-induced wave dissipation, whereas the effect of tidal currents is often ignored. To our knowledge, only two studies investigated wave dissipation by vegetation with the presence of following currents (current velocity is in the same direction as wave propagation) (Li and Yan, 2007; Paul et al., 2012). However, based on independent experiments, they have drawn contradictive conclusions whether steady currents increase or decrease wave attenuation. We show in this paper that this inconsistency may be caused by a difference in ratio of imposed current velocity to amplitude of the horizontal wave orbital velocity. We found that following currents can either increase or decrease wave dissipation depending on the velocity ratio, which explains the seeming inconsistency in the two previous studies. Wave dissipation in plant canopies is closely related to vegetation drag coefficients. We apply a new approach to obtain the drag coefficients. This new method eliminates the potential errors that are often introduced by the commonly used method. More importantly, it is capable of obtaining the vegetation drag coefficient in combined current–wave flows, which is not possible for the commonly used calibration method. Based on laboratory data, we propose an empirical relation between drag coefficient and Reynolds number, which can be useful for numerical modeling. The characteristics of drag coefficient variation and in-canopy velocity dynamics are incorporated into an analytical model to help understand the effect of following currents on vegetation-induced wave dissipation. 相似文献
15.
北仑河口水动力状况复杂,受入海径流、潮汐、波浪、沿岸流、风应力等多种因子的共同影响.对北仑河口S1、S2站长序列的海流剖面资料进行数学统计、潮流调和分析和数字滤波,探讨其潮流特征和余流形成机制.分析结果表明:北仑河口潮流性质主要为不规则全日潮流;观测期间S1站实测涨、落潮最大流速分别为39、83 cm/s,S2站分别为52、44 cm/s.研究海域余流流速从表层往底层逐渐减小,其中S1站余流流速主要介于5～10 cm/s之间,流向集中在S-SW向,S2站主要介于0～5 cm/s之间,表、中层以NNE-ENE向为主,底层以偏W向为主.风应力是调查区表层与近表层余流形成的主导因素;西向沿岸流对调查区的余流也有较明显的作用;径流对调查区的S1站有一定的影响,但对S2站影响很小;潮致余流对调查区的余流贡献较小. 相似文献
16.
基于三维调和分离的同安湾口门断面冬季潮流和余流特征的分析 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
利用同安湾口门断面走航ADCP观测数据,采用基于高斯基函数的Candela空间插值方法,对海流进行空间三维的调和分离,并对分离的各分潮流与余流进行流场的回归检验分析,F(α=0.01)检验显示流场的回归效果显著.观测期间同安湾口门断面平均潮差为5.15 m,最小潮差4.38m,最大潮差5.98 m,断面上涨落潮最大流速分别为92.3、80.3 cm/s,潮流特征分析表明,同安湾口门断面的潮流运动形式为往复流,以半日潮流为主,约占70%潮流信息,潮流流速从海表面向海底递减.余流最大值为12.5 cm/s,空间分布上将同安湾口门断面一分为二形成北进南出的余流进出通道,这与以往余流格局的认识相符. 相似文献
17.
The wave-induced setup and circulation in a two dimensional horizontal (2DH) reef-lagoon-channel system is investigated by a non-hydrostatic model. The simulated results agree well with observations from the laboratory experiments, revealing that the model is valid in simulating wave transformation and currents over reefs. The effects of incident wave height, period, and reef flat water depth on the mean sea level and wave-driven currents are examined. Results show that the distributions of mean sea level and current velocities on the reef flat adjacent to the channel vary significantly from those in the area close to the side walls. From the wave averaged current field, an obvious alongshore flux flowing from the reef flat to the channel is captured. The flux from the reef flat composes the second source of the offshore rip current, while the first source is from the lagoon. A detailed momentum balance analysis shows that the alongshore current is mainly induced by the pressure gradient between the reef flat and the channel. In the lagoon, the momentum balances are between the pressure and radiation stress gradient, which drives flow towards the channel. Along the channel, the offshore current is mainly driven by the pressure gradient. 相似文献
18.
Very small waves and associated sediment resuspension on an estuarine intertidal flat 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Field data from a microtidal estuarine intertidal flat (Tamaki estuary, New Zealand) are used to analyse very small waves (height <10 cm; period 1.0–1.8 s) and associated sediment resuspension under light winds. Mean spectral period at the bed varied over the tidal cycle, driven by changes in surface-wave spectrum and depth-attenuation of orbital motions. Wave-orbital currents exceeded 30 cm/s, disturbing the fine-sand (100–200 μm) matrix of the seabed and resulting in the release of fine silt (particle size <20 μm) at concentrations >120 mg/L. Resuspension was initiated when ∼40% of the maximum zero-downcrossing orbital speeds in a burst exceeded the critical speed for initiation of sediment motion. Sediment concentrations were highest around low tide, when waves were smaller compared to high tide because of a reduced fetch but depth-attenuation of orbital motions was less because the water was shallower. Wave period exerted a control on sediment resuspension through the wave friction factor. There was a hysteresis in the wave Reynolds number such that it was greater on the ebbing tide compared to on the flooding tide: since it did not exceed 3 × 105 the bed was hydraulically smooth, and the wave friction factor therefore is inversely proportional to wave period. Hence, the tidal-cycle hysteresis in wave Reynolds number translated into a smaller wave friction factor on the ebbing tide, and accounting for this caused the ebb and flood sediment concentration data to collapse onto one curve when plotted against wave-induced skin friction. A simple model is presented to evaluate the relative contribution to sediment resuspension of waves associated with weak and strong winds. At the base of the flat (waves competent to resuspend sediment for 5% of the inundation time), waves associated with stronger, infrequent winds dominate resuspension. At the top of the flat (waves competent to resuspend sediment for 30% of the inundation time), waves associated with lighter, frequent winds dominate resuspension. Moderate winds – neither the strongest nor most frequently occurring – dominate resuspension integrated across the profile. The mass of sediment resuspended by waves is greatest towards the top of the flat: shoreward of this, resuspension is smaller because of wave dissipation; seaward of this, resuspension is smaller because of greater depth-attenuation of orbital motions. The location of maximum sediment mass resuspended by waves and the location of maximum duration of resuspension are not necessarily the same. 相似文献
19.
应用1个改进的含有动边界技术的河口海岸动力模型模拟了泉州湾洛阳江口的潮汐潮流.结果表明M2分潮在洛阳江口的主河道占据主导地位,但是随着潮波向浅滩的传播,其能量通过海底摩擦作用或非线性耗散作用逐渐转移至浅水潮,其中尤以M4分潮的增长最为显著.浅水分潮的增长又会引起天文分潮涨、落潮流的不对称性.进一步检验洛阳江口的潮流历时（月平均的涨、落潮流历时分别为6 h 1 min 30 s和6 h 19 min 58 s）和潮汐余流特征发现：该水域以涨潮流为主,由此产生的涨、落潮流的不对称可能有利于潮滩的进一步扩展. 相似文献
20.
舟山马岙峡道的水文泥沙特性和峡道效应 总被引：6，自引：2，他引：6
根据舟山本岛北部马岙峡道实测水文泥沙资料和沉积物采样分析结果以及对马岙岸段岸滩的现场踏勘结果，分析了马岙峡道的水文泥沙特性及其峡道效应。文章认为，受峡道地形限制，马岙岸段水流呈现显著的往复流特性，潮流流速较强，水体含沙量较低，泥沙淤积较弱，岸滩处于冲淤平衡状态；受峡道内涨落潮流分流和汇流的共同作用，马岙小泥糊礁附近发育水下沙嘴，该沙嘴是以落潮流作用为主形成的浅滩，受涨潮流改造而形成的，并将在涨落潮流作用下逐渐增长，形成连岛沙嘴，使小泥糊礁附近岸线发展成弧形岸线，并达成新的平衡。 相似文献