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1.
The wave height distribution with Edgeworth’s form of a cumulative expansion of probability density function (PDF) of surface elevation are investigated. The results show that a non-Gaussian model of wave height distribution reasonably agrees with experimental data. It is discussed that the fourth order moment (kurtosis) of water surface elevation corresponds to the first order nonlinear correction of wave heights and is related with wave grouping. 相似文献
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SHI Hongda SUN Fu
Lecturer 《中国海洋工程》1999,(2)
The rate of change of wave surface elevation is of much importance in ocean engineering,es-pecially for the determination of the limitation of wave breaking.This paper gives a kind of joint distribu-tion of wave periods and the rate of change of wave surface elevation by means of calculation of the two-or-der to four-order moment of the frequency spectrum based on the linear wave theory.For the first time,the distribution density function of wave periods determined by peaks is provided,and the conclusion isdrawn that the rate of change of wave surface elevation obeys the Rayleigh distribution. 相似文献
3.
Laboratory experiments are conducted to study the probability distribution of surface elevation for wind waves and the convergence is discussed of the Gram-Charlier series in describing the surface elevation distribution. Results show that the agreement between the Gram-Charlier series and the observed distribution becomes better and better as the truncated order of the series increases in a certain range, which is contrary to the phenomenon observed by Huang and Long (1980) . It is also shown that the Gram-Charlier series is sensitive to the anomalies in the data set which will make the agreement worse if they are not preprocessed appropriately. Negative values of the probability distribution expressed by the Gram-Charlier series in some ranges of surface elevations are discussed, but the absolute values of the negative values as well as the ranges of their occurrence become smaller gradually as more and more terms are included. Therefore the negative values will have no evident effect on the form of t 相似文献
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In this paper, without recourse to the nonlinear dynamical equations of the waves, the nonlinear random waves are retrieved from the non-Gaussian characteristic of the sea surface elevation distribution. The question of coincidence of the nonlinear wave profile, spectrum and its distributions of maximum (or minimum) values of the sea surface elevation with results derived from some existing nonlinear theories is expounded under the narrow-band spectrum condition. Taking the shoaling sea wave as an example, the nonlinear random wave process and its spectrum in shallow water are retrieved from both the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution in shallow water and the normal sea waves in deep water and compared with the values actually measured. Results show that they can coincide with the actually measured values quite well, thus, this can confirm that the method proposed in this paper is feasible. 相似文献
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The Edgeworth’s form of a cumulative expansion of the probability density function (PDF) of surface elevation expands the maximum wave height distribution to predict the occurrence probability of freak waves. This study investigated the enhancement of the occurrence probability of freak waves due to the fourth order moment of surface elevation, kurtosis, change and found that the nonlinear effects on the occurrence probability of a freak wave linearly depends on kurtosis for a small number of waves N=250. The statistical theory was compared with field data, and freak waves sometimes appear when not expected by the Rayleigh theory, but they were predicted by the proposed theory. 相似文献
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A. Toffoli M. Onorato E. Bitner-Gregersen A.R. Osborne A.V. Babanin 《Ocean Engineering》2008,35(3-4):367-379
When the wave spectrum is sufficiently narrow-banded and the wave steepness is sufficiently high, the modulational instability can take place and waves can be higher than expected from second-order wave theory. In order to investigate these effects on the statistical distribution of long-crested, deep water waves, direct numerical simulations of the Euler equations have been performed. Results show that, for a typical design spectral shape, both the upper and lower tails of the probability density function for the surface elevation significantly deviate from the commonly used second-order wave theory. In this respect, the crest elevation is observed to increase up to 18% at low probability levels. It would furthermore be expected that wave troughs become shallower due to nonlinear effects. Nonetheless, the numerical simulations show that the trough depressions tend to be deeper than in second-order theory. 相似文献
7.
基于copula函数论述了两变量的联合概率分布方法.此方法的主要优点是边缘分布可由不同的分布函数构成,变量间可具相关性.以粤东汕尾海域极值波高与相应风速为研究实例,经分析获得以下结果:(1)优选的极值波高和风速可分别由P-Ⅲ型和GEV 分布表示:(2)拟合优度检验指标表明二者的最优连接函数为Archimedean co... 相似文献
8.
利用TOPEX卫星高度计资料分析东中国海的风、浪场特征 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
利用TOPEX卫星高度计和日本气象厅浮标观测资料,对东中国海的有效波高和风速进行比较,分析了卫星高度计资料的有效性。利用有效波高和风速的3种概率密度函数分布,结合TOPEX卫星高度计资料,并采用最大似然方法对统计分布参数进行估计,结果表明,有效波高的对数-正态概率密度分布与观测资料的直方图在有效波高的整个范围内符合较好,风速的直方图与Weibul概率密度分布符合较好。同时,分析了有效波高大于4 m的巨浪在东中国海的时空分布特征,表明巨浪多出现在冬、秋两季,平均有效波高最大值出现在夏季,且主要分布在东中国海东南部。 相似文献
9.
Probability distributions of wave phases in association with distributions of surface elevations arestudied with wave records.Wave records of different nature are used for comparison.These are surface fluc-tuations acquired during wind wave flume experiments,representing wave generation under strong wind:andwave records measured in the northern part of Taiwan for waves in natural environments.Three probabilitymodels,the unifrom distribution,the beta distribution,and a model from Tayfun and Lo(1989)are adoptedto study the possible distributions of wave phases.It is found that when surface elevations become skewed,wave phases deviate from the usually assumed uniform distribution and a better model would be the beta dis-tribution. 相似文献
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《Applied Ocean Research》2004,26(1-2):35-48
We present a statistical analysis of some of the largest waves occurring during 793 h of surface elevation measurements collected during 14 severe storms in the North Sea. This data contains 104 freak waves. It is found that the probability of occurrence of freak waves is only weekly dependent on the significant wave height, significant wave steepness and spectral bandwidth. The probability does show a slightly stronger dependency on the skew and kurtosis of the surface elevation data, but on removing the contribution to these measures from the presence of the freakwaves themselves, this dependency largely disappears.Distributions of extreme waves are modelled by fitting Generalised Pareto distributions, and extreme value distributions and return periods are given for freak waves in terms of the empirical fitted parameters. It is shown by comparison with these fits that both the Rayleigh distribution and the fit of Nerzic and Prevosto severely under-predict the probability of occurrence of extreme waves. For the most extreme freak wave in our data, the Rayleigh distribution over-predicts the return period by about 300 times when compared to the fitted model. 相似文献
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14.
风暴增水随机分析的过阈法及其统计计算模式 总被引：6，自引：4，他引：2
以青岛大港观测站 32年增水过程为例 ,探讨风暴增水工程设计参数的频率分析法 ,进行了不同阈值序列及各种理论线型的分布拟合。首次提出 Poisson- Pearson- III型分布模式 ,并将其用于工程计算 :对比分析 POT法与年极值法的计算结果 ;给出青岛大港站风暴增水多年一遇设计值 ,为进一步科学地确定海岸防潮工程设计水位奠定了基础。 相似文献
15.
A statistical model is developed to predict wave overtopping volume and rate of extreme waves on a fixed deck. The probability density function for the volume and rate of overtopping water are formulated based on the truncated Weibull distribution with the assumption of local sinusoidal profile for small amplitude waves. Sensitivity to the wave nonlinearity parameter and deck clearance is discussed. The statistical model is compared to laboratory data of the instantaneous free surface elevation measured in front of a fixed deck, and overtopping volume and overtopping rate measured at the leading edge of the deck. The statistical theory compared well with the measured exceedance probability seaward of the deck. The model prediction of the exceedance probability of deck overtopping gave qualitatively good agreement for large overtopping values. 相似文献
16.
A statistical analysis of non-linear random waves 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
R. S. Langley 《Ocean Engineering》1987,14(5)
A statistical analysis of unidirectional non-linear random waves is presented which is based on second-order random wave theory. The analysis technique is similar to a method which is available for the statistical analysis of a two-term Volterra series. It is shown that the statistical problem can be reduced to that of finding the eigenvalues and eigenvectors of two real symmetric matrices, from which the cumulants, the characteristic function, and the probability density function of the surface elevation can be found. Various numerical examples are considered, and the possibility of extending the technique to deal with spreading seas is discussed. 相似文献
17.
Distribution of wave crests in a non-Gaussian sea 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
The sea elevation at a fixed point is modelled as a quadratic form of a vector valued Gaussian process with arbitrary mean. With this model, saddlepoint methods are used to approximate the mean upcrossing intensity with which the sea level crosses upwards at a certain height. This estimated intensity is further used to determine the probability distribution of wave crests. The use of saddlepoint technique is particularly important here because it can approximate the crest distribution without the need to perform simulations or use fitted distributions. Several numerical examples are given, including two with measured data. In the cases of real data, the results obtained with the saddlepoint technique are also compared with the results obtained with well known methods commonly used in the industry. 相似文献
18.
基于Longuest-Higgins(1963)非线性海浪模型,在有限水深且存在均匀背景流的条件下,根据Song(2006)给出的波面位移二阶表达式,采用Combi海浪频谱计算了海表面定点波面位移时间序列和波面位移概率统计分布。分析了波面位移统计分布随风速、水深、反波龄和均匀背景流的变化特征和规律以及不同海况条件下二阶非线性项对波面位移统计分布的影响。结果表明:二阶非线性项使波面位移分布偏离正态分布,二阶非线性作用受风速、水深、反波龄和均匀背景流的影响。风速增大、水深降低、反波龄减小或者均匀背景流和风速传播方向相反均使波面位移二阶非线性项的作用加强,无因次波面位移概率密度分布的偏度和峰度随之增大,反之则二阶非线性项作用减弱。当均匀背景流和风速相同时,虽然使非线性项的作用减弱,但平均波面位移反而比静止水平面降低。当均匀背景流和风速相反时,虽然使非线性作用增强,但平均波面位移反而趋于静止水平面。得到如下结论:二阶非线性项对于波面位移有显著影响,数值模拟波面位移需要增加二阶非线性项。通过以上研究,提高了数值模拟波面位移的准确性,而波面位移是海浪最基本的特征量,从而增强了海浪模拟和预报的准确性,对海洋工程、海–气相互作用、上层海洋动力学等具有重要意义。 相似文献
19.
通过分析实验室风浪观测结果研究非线性效应对波面极大值和极小值分布的影响。波面极大值和极小值累积概率的差异表明 ,与线性理论相比 ,波面极小值在平均波面以下的位置偏高。对实验结果的进一步分析表明 ,非线性效应使波面极大值在平均波面以上总概率高于线性理论结果 ,而概率密度峰值处波面极大值高度略低于线性理论结果。波面极小值在平均波面以上各位置出现的概率均高于线性理论结果 ,在平均波面以下的较低位置 ,波面极小值出现概率明显低于线性理论结果。 相似文献
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辽东湾JZ20—2海域海冰参数的概率分布 总被引：11，自引：1，他引：11
基于辽东湾JZ2 0 2海域 1996 2 0 0 0年 4个冬季的海冰定点观测资料和海冰数值模拟结果 ,对该海域的平整冰厚、冰速、冰向和压缩强度等海冰参数进行了概率分析 ,确定了各自的分布参数 ,并对冰速和冰向进行了联合概率分析。结果表明 :冰厚和冰速分别服从对数正态分布和瑞利分布 ,海冰压缩强度服从正态分布。计算结果可用于JZ2 0 2海域海洋结构可靠性设计和疲劳累积损伤分析的海冰参数 ,也可作为其邻近海域的参考资料 相似文献