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1.
Nonlinear water wave propagation passing a submerged shelf is studied experimentally and numerically. The applicability of two different wave propagation models has been investigated. One is higher-order Boussinesq equations derived by Zou (1999) and the other is the classic Boussinesq equations. Physical experiments are conducted, three different front slopes (1:10, 1:5 and 1:2) of the shelf are set up in the experiment and their effects on wave propagation are investigated. Comparisons of numerical results with test data are made, the model of higher-order Boussinesq equations agrees much better with the measurements than the model of the classical Boussinesq equations. The results show that the higher-order Boussinesq equations can also be applied to the steeper slope case although the mild slope assumption is employed in the derivation of the higher order terms of higher order Boussinesq equations. 相似文献
2.
波浪谱形对不规则波数值模拟的影响 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
通过数值模拟分析了波浪谱形对不规则波浪数值模拟结果的影响.采用不同参数的JONSWAP谱模拟入射波要素,基于抛物型缓坡方程模拟不规则波浪的传播,分析了波浪谱形状对波浪数值模拟结果的影响.结果表明,采用抛物型缓坡方程模拟不规则波浪时,入射波浪谱形对模拟结果影响不明显;但由于模型中非线性项的影响,采用不规则波模拟的波高分布和采用规则波模拟的结果略有差别. 相似文献
3.
Hong-Sheng Zhang Hong-Jun Zhao Ping-Xing Ding Guo-Ping Miao 《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(10):1393-1404
By transforming two different time-dependent hyperbolic mild slope equations with dissipation term for wave propagation on non-uniform currents into wave-action conservation equation and eikonal equation, respectively, shown are the different effects of dissipation term on the eikonal equation in the two different mild slope equations. The performances of intrinsic frequency and wave number are also discussed. Thus the suitable mathematical model is chosen in which the wave number vector and intrinsic frequency are expressed both more rigorously and completely. By using the perturbation method, an extended evolution equation, which is of time-dependent parabolic type, is developed from the time-dependent hyperbolic mild slope equation which exists in the suitable mathematical model, and solved by using the alternating direction implicit (ADI) method. Presented is the numerical model for wave propagation and transformation on non-uniform currents in water of slowly varying topography. From the comparisons of the numerical solutions with the theoretical solutions of two examples of wave propagation, respectively, the results show that the numerical solutions are in good agreement with the exact ones. Calculating the interactions between incident wave and current on a sloping beach [Arthur, R.S., 1950. Refraction of shallow water waves. The combined effects of currents and underwater topography. EOS Transactions, August 31, 549–552], the differences of wave number vector between refraction and combined refraction–diffraction of waves are discussed quantitatively, while the effects of different methods of calculating wave number vector on numerical results are shown. 相似文献
4.
波浪在斜坡地形上破碎,破波后稳定波高多采用物理模型试验方法进行研究,利用近岸波浪传播变形的抛物型缓坡方程和波能流平衡方程,导出了适用于斜坡上波浪破碎的数值模拟方法。首先根据波能流平衡方程和缓坡方程基本型式分析波浪在破波带内的波能变化和衰减率,推导了波浪传播模型中波能衰减因子和破波能量流衰减因子之间的关系;其次,利用陡坡地形上的高阶抛物型缓坡方程建立了波浪传播和波浪破碎数学模型;最后,根据物理模型试验实测数据对数值模拟的效果进行验证。数值计算与试验资料比较表明,该模型可以较好地模拟斜坡地形的波浪传播波高变化。 相似文献
5.
Hyperbolic Mild Slope Equations with Inclusion of Amplitude Dispersion Effect： Regular Waves 总被引：4，自引：2，他引：2
A new form of hyperbolic mild slope equations is derived with the inclusion of the amphtude dispersion of nonlinear waves. The effects of including the amplitude dispersion effect on the wave propagation are discussed. Wave breaking mechanism is incorporated into the present model to apply the new equations to surf zone. The equations are solved nu- merically for regular wave propagation over a shoal and in surf zone, and a comparison is made against measurements. It is found that the inclusion of the amplitude dispersion can also improve model＇ s performance on prediction of wave heights around breaking point for the wave motions in surf zone. 相似文献
6.
A higher-order non-hydrostatic σ model is developed to simulate non-linear refraction–diffraction of water waves. To capture non-linear (or steep) waves, a 4th-order spatial discretization is utilized to approximate the large horizontal pressure gradient. A higher-order top-layer pressure treatment is further implemented to resolve wave propagation. The model's characteristics including linear wave dispersion and non-linearity are carefully examined. The accuracy of the present model using only two vertical layers is validated by laboratory data and the available results predicted by the non-linear Schrödinger equation, Boussinesq-type equations, the non-linear mild slope equation, and the Laplace equation. Features of harmonic generation as well as the influences of dispersion and non-linearity on wave energy transfer processes are discussed. 相似文献
7.
8.
The elliptic mild slope equation is used to simulate linear wave propagation over variable seabed topography with mild slopes.The governing equation is discretized by the finite difference method.Ba-sed on the BI-CGSTAB technique.an attractive variant of BI-Conjugate Gradients(BI-CG)method,theobtained linear algebraic system of equations is solved.Numerical experiments show that the BI-CGSTABmethod is efficient for solving the elliptic mild slope equation.The results obtained by the BI-CGSTAB-Ba-sed method are much the same as those obtained by other authors with different solution methods,but theconvergence rate is much faster than that of other methods. 相似文献
9.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,37(2):175-192
Nonlinear wave diffraction is studied using the nonlinear time-dependent mild slope equation. The equations are solved using a combined Newton–Raphson and Crank–Nicolson finite difference scheme. The model results are verified for propagation of highly nonlinear waves over uniform depth and wave diffraction due to semi-finite breakwater and breakwater gap with different widths. Comparison between the numerical and experimental results indicates that the model is capable of simulating nonlinear wave diffraction. The model is applied to study the effect of the wave nonlinearity on the diffraction coefficient for a semi-infinite breakwater and a breakwater gap. 相似文献
10.
修正型缓坡方程的有限元模型 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
与缓坡方程相比,修正型缓坡方程增加了地形曲率项和坡度平方项,从而提高了数值求解的复杂性。本文将计算域划分为内域和外域,内域为水深变化区域,使用修正型缓坡方程,其中的地形曲率项和坡度平方项可用有限单元各节点的水深信息和单元插值函数表示,外域为水深恒定区,速度势满足Helmholtz方程,通过内外域的边界匹配建立有限元方程,并用高斯消去法求解。进而分别模拟了波浪传过Homma岛和圆形浅滩的变形,其结果与相关的解析解和实验数据吻合良好,证明了本文有限元模型的正确性。同时,通过与实验数据的对比也明显看出,在地形坡度较陡的情况下,修正型缓坡方程较缓坡方程具有更高的计算精度。 相似文献
11.
Vegetation damping effects on propagating water waves have been investigated by many researchers. This paper investigates the effects of damping due to vegetation on solitary water wave run-up via numerical simulation. The numerical model is based on an implementation of Morison's formulation for vegetation induced inertia and drag stresses in the nonlinear shallow water equations. The numerical model is solved via a finite volume method on a Cartesian cut cell mesh. The accuracy of the numerical scheme and the effects of the vegetation terms in the present model are validated by comparison with experiment results. The model is then applied to simulate a solitary wave propagating on a plane slope with vegetation. The sensitivity of solitary wave run-up to plant height, diameter and stem density is investigated by comparison of the numerical results for different patterns of vegetation. The numerical results show that vegetation can effectively reduce solitary wave propagation velocity and that solitary wave run-up is decreased with increase of plant height in water and also diameter and stem density. 相似文献
12.
S. F. Dotsenko 《Physical Oceanography》1998,9(5):323-331
The paper analyses the effect of non-linearity and bottom friction on propagation of tsunami-type surface waves from the abyssal
part of the Black Sea towards the shelf zone. The study relies, on numerical solution of unidimensional non-linear equations
for long waves, using the finite-difference technique. Numerical experiments have been conducted for the bottom profile continental
slope and shelf, with the full wave reflection being prescribed at a 10-m depth contour. It has been shown that the major
role in transforming solitary waves belongs to non-linear topographic factors rather than to dissipation. The reflected wave
has been found to be non-linearly distorted, and wave heights in the Black Sea coastal zone have been found to increase by
many times.
Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin. 相似文献
13.
Enhancements for the Bragg reflection are introduced for three sets of 2D higher order Boussinesq equations to improve the prediction of the Bragg reflection. The extension of the approach to other sets of Boussinesq equations is discussed. The analytical solutions for the Bragg reflection over an infinite number of sinusoidal bars are derived for these Boussinesq models and compared to the exact theoretical solution in order to determine the optimized values of the parameters in the new enhancement terms. Numerical simulations are also carried out for the Bragg reflection over a finite number of sand bars and compared with corresponding measurements to validate the enhancements. Comparisons with other forms of Boussinesq models are made to discuss the applicability of different forms of Boussinesq models to rapidly varying topography with sand bars. The effects of the mild slope assumption on the prediction of Bragg reflection and of wave reflection on a plane self are also discussed. 相似文献
14.
This paper presents a technique to generate waves at oblique angles in finite difference numerical models in a rectangular grid system by using internal generation technique [Lee, C., Suh, K.D., 1998. Internal generation of waves for time-dependent mild-slope equations. Coast. Eng. 34, 35–57.] along an arc-shaped line source. Tests were made for four different types of wave generation layouts. Quantitative experiments were conducted under the following conditions: the propagation of waves on a flat bottom, the refraction and shoaling of waves on a planar slope, and the diffraction of waves to a semi-infinite breakwater. Numerical experiments were conducted using the extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [Suh, K.D., Lee, C., Park, W.S., 1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coast. Eng. 32, 91–117.]. The fourth layout type consisting of two parallel lines connected to a semicircle showed the best solutions, especially for a small grid size. This technique is useful for the numerical simulation of irregular waves with broad-banded directional spectrum using conventional spectral wave models for the reasonable estimation of bottom friction and wave-breaking. 相似文献
15.
16.
《Coastal Engineering》2004,51(1):17-34
Approximate equations for the elliptic mild slope equation are derived based on Padé approximation and used as absorbing boundaries. The new boundary equations can absorb the incident waves for high range of wave incidence angle. In addition, the new boundary equations can be used iteratively to refine the solution by eliminating reflections from the boundaries. An iterative conjugate gradient scheme has been used to solve the elliptic water wave equation and the new boundary equations. The model developed can accommodate for wave diffraction, refraction and reflections from structures with wide range of wave angles at the boundaries. The new model has been tested for several cases. The model compares very well with other models. 相似文献
17.
Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Three Dimensional Waves in Water of Arbitrary Varying Topography 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
HONG Guangwen ZHANG Hongsheng FENG Weibing Professor Coastal Ocean Engineering Research Institute Hohai University 《中国海洋工程》1998,(4)
—The numerical simulation is based on the authors＇high-order models with a dissipative termfor nonlinear and dispersive wave in water of varying depth.Corresponding finite-difference equations andgeneral conditions for open and fixed natural boundaries with an arbitrary reflection coefficient and phaseshift are also given in this paper.The systematical tests of numerical simulation show that the theoreticalmodels,the finite-difference algorithms and the boundary conditions can give good calculation results forthe wave propagating in shallow and deep water with an arbitrary slope varying from gentle to steep. 相似文献
18.
《Deep Sea Research Part I: Oceanographic Research Papers》2001,48(6):1375-1399
Semidiurnal tides, and especially the lunar tide M2, are dominant dynamics in the Bay of Biscay. Strong tidal currents are associated with the presence of a significant continental slope. By combining Newton's gravitation laws and Euler's equations, Laplace's equations contain the astronomical forcing responsible for the observed semidiurnal tides. In shallow waters, this direct forcing is often neglected. We study here its influence on the tidal dynamics over the continental slope through the development of a simple model describing the barotropic semidiurnal dynamics on a transect perpendicular to the slope. This new model results from the combination of two different models, i.e. the one developed by Rosenfeld and Beardsley (1987), which takes into account the tide-generating force, and that of Battisti and Clarke (1982), which neglects it. A first model is developed by neglecting the direct astronomical forcing in equations: it consists in solving a second-order homogeneous propagation equation for the barotropic semidiurnal tide and needs only coastal conditions as well as the knowledge of the along-slope wave number of the solution. For a mean slope typical of the South Brittany area, this non-forced model provides results in accordance with those of Battisti and Clarke and Le Cann (1990): in particular, in the upper part of the slope, it shows a polarization inversion of tidal ellipses characteristic of the tidal dynamics observed in this area. Then, the direct astronomical forcing is kept in equations. The simple model developed without this forcing is fitted in order to solve the resulting forced propagation equation for the barotropic tide. The solution of this second model is the sum of a forced wave responding to the direct astronomical forcing and of a free wave generated at the coastal boundary. Under the same boundary conditions, the results obtained with the influence of the tide-generating force are then compared with those obtained without it. This comparison allows one to apprehend the importance of the direct astronomical forcing on tidal dynamics across the slope: in particular, the main difference appears in deep waters where this forcing induces a phase-lag between the plain and the shelf for the sea-surface slope. 相似文献
19.
考虑波能耗散的近岸波浪传播数学模型 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
基于考虑能耗的定常缓坡方程，推导得出包含波能耗散的近岸水域波浪传播变形数学模型，并用所得模型对浅水中波浪的传播进行了计算，将计算结构与Berkhoff的实验数据进行比较，表明二者吻合很好。该数学模型能较好地解决波浪在浅水中的传播变形问题。 相似文献
20.
Extended Boussinesq equations for rapidly varying topography 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
We developed a new Boussinesq-type model which extends the equations of Madsen and Sørensen [1992. A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics. Part 2. A slowly varying bathymetry. Coastal Engineering 18, 183-204.] by including both bottom curvature and squared bottom slope terms. Numerical experiments were conducted for wave reflection from the Booij's [1983. A note on the accuracy of the mild-slope equation. Coastal Engineering 7, 191-203] planar slope with different wave frequencies using several types of Boussinesq equations. Madsen and Sørensen's model results are accurate in the whole slopes in shallow waters, but inaccurate in intermediate water depths. Nwogu's [1993. Alternative form of Boussinesq equation for nearshore wave propagation. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering 119, 618-638] model results are accurate up to 1:1 (V:H) slope, but significantly inaccurate for steep slopes. The present model results are accurate up to the slope of 1:1, but somewhat inaccurate for very steep slopes. Further, numerical experiments were conducted for wave reflections from a ripple patch and also a Gaussian-shaped trench. For the two cases, the results of Nwogu's model and the present model are accurate, because these models include the bottom curvature term which is important for the cases. However, Madsen and Sørensen's model results are inaccurate, because this model neglects the bottom curvature term. 相似文献