Hilbert Transferin Applied to Separation of Waves     

孙鹤泉  王永学  彭静萍 《中国海洋工程》2002,(2)

The analytical method (AM) for separation of composite waves is presented based on the Hilbert transform. It is ap-plicable to both regular and irregular trains of waves. The wave data series measured with two wave gauges in the experi-ments are separated into two series of incident and reflected waves. Then, the reflection coefficient can be easily ob-tained. The arrival of reflected waves can also be detected for improveraent of the accuracy of the reflection coefficient. The reflection performance of the physical model can be estimated exactly without calculation of wave height and phase difference. Numerical samples developed to test the method are proved to be accurate. Physical experiments are conduct-ed and compared with Goda s method and satisfactory results are obtained.  相似文献   

Ocean Waves: Half-a-Century of Discovery   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Paul H. LeBlond 《Journal of Oceanography》2002,58(1):3-9

While the nature of most ocean waves has long been known and their basic physics understood since the nineteenth century, intense study of ocean waves during the second half of the twentieth century has taken the subject from the realm of mathematical exercises to that of practical engineering. Modern understanding of the generation, propagation and interactions of ocean waves with each other and with oceanic features has advanced to a quantitative level offering predictive capacity. This paper presents a brief qualitative review of advances in knowledge of sound waves, wind waves, tsunamis, tides, internal waves and long-period vorticity waves. The review is aimed at non-specialists who may benefit from an overview of the current state of the subject and access to a bibliography of general-interest references. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.  相似文献   

环台湾岛海域半日潮波特征的三维模拟   总被引：10，自引：0，他引：10  

沙文钰  吕新刚  陈希  张文静 《海洋学报》2001,23(4):31-40

用1997版POM海洋模式,首次应用于环台湾岛海域的潮波数值研究.得到该海域的半日潮波主要为23°N以南西太平洋传来的胁振潮.影响台湾海峡的半日潮波分别由海峡南北口传入的两支潮波,且北支强于南支.福建沿岸湄州湾-兴化湾为最强潮区,其M₂分潮最大振幅可达240cm.最强潮流区位于澎湖水道,M₂分潮最大潮流达196cm/s.环台湾岛海域潮波潮流水平结构上除海峡北部原有一个圆流点外,还发现另外存在4个新的圆流点.潮流垂直结构上主要为右偏,接近底层处为左偏.  相似文献   

9914号(Dan)台风浪的后报试验研究   总被引：5，自引：2，他引：5  

王彩欣  张占海  王可光 《海洋通报》2003,22(1):9-16

利用WAM第三代海浪模式的第四版本(WAMC4)对40a来造成福建沿海灾害最严重的9914号台风海浪过程进行了后报试验，并与近岸常规观测和卫星高度计有效波高资料进行了比较。与常规观测站的比较结果表明，WAMC4能较好地再现海浪的发展过程。后报结果与TOPEX/POSEIDON和ERS-2卫星观测资料的对比研究表明，风速的后报结果与卫星观测有较好的一致性，但海浪的后报比卫星高度计反演的有效波高整体略偏低。  相似文献   

南海北部海区上层水体平均声速场的变化   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

邱章  朱良生  许建林  宋运法 《海洋学报》2001,23(5):42-48

对所收集到的南海北部海区的温度、盐度和深度历史资料进行了声速的计算、统计与分析,结果表明该海区上层水体的平均声速场有较明显的年际变化:表层声速的平面分布显示出沿岸水与外海水强弱交替变化的特征,声速等值线的走向几乎与岸线平行,等声速线的值自近岸向外海增加,大陆架外缘海区声速的水平梯度较大;下层声速的分布以环流和水体共同作用的形式出现,50m层声速平面分布的趋势除冬季与表层稍为相似外,其余季节与表层有明显的差别,春、夏季节50m层声速自西向东增加,而秋季与其表层分布相反,自近岸向外海减小;声速的垂直分布受海水升温与降温的影响显著,春、夏季表层海水升温,海表声速最大,声速自海表随深度的增加而减小;秋、冬季表层附近水层降温,声速稍偏低,普遍出现正梯度现象,最大声速移至表层以下的水层,这个深度随季节的改变而改变,随海区的不同而不同.该海区的平均声速有年波动现象,表层波幅最大,随深度的增加波幅变小,至100m水层其波动的位相几乎与表层相反.  相似文献   

Reflection of waves from the boundary of a random elastic semi-infinite medium     

Rabindra Kumar Bhattacharyya 《Pure and Applied Geophysics》1996,146(3-4):677-688

In this paper the smooth perturbation technique is employed to investigate the problem of reflection of waves incident on the plane boundary of a semi-infinite elastic medium with randomly varying inhomogeneities. Amplitude ratios have been obtained for various types of incident and reflected waves. It has been shown that an incidentSH orSV type of wave gives rise to reflectedSH, P andSV waves, the main components beingSH andP, SV in the respective cases. The reflected amplitudes have been calculated depending upon the randomness of the medium to the square of the small quantity , where measures the deviation of the medium from homogeneity. An incidentP-type wave produces mainly aP component and also a weakSH component to the order of ². The reflected amplitudes obtainable for elastic media are also altered by terms of the same order. The direction of the reflected wave is influenced by randomness in some cases.  相似文献   

Hybrid seismic modeling based on discrete-wave number and finite-difference methods     

Jiří Zahradník  Peter Moczo 《Pure and Applied Geophysics》1996,148(1-2):21-38

Any calculation of seismic wave propagation comprising the seismic source, the travel path, and the receiver site in a single finite-difference (FD) model requires a considerable amount of computer time and memory. Moreover, the methods currently available for including point sources in the 2D FD calculations are far-field approximations only. Therefore we have developed a new hybrid method for treating the seismic wave fields at localized 2D near-surface structures embedded in a 1D background medium, and excited by a point source. The source radiation and propagation in the background model is solved by the discrete-wave number (DW) method, while the propagation in the local 2D structure is calculated by the FD method. The coupling between the two sets of calculations is performed on a rectangular excitation box surrounding the local structure. We show the usefulness of the method in ground-motion studies where both near-field source effects and local site effects are important. Technical problems connected with the inconsistency between the 3D source radiation and the 2D FD calculation are minor for the relatively distant in-plane point explosive sources, but are more serious for the in-plane dislocation sources.  相似文献   

Energy balance of simple elastodynamic sources     

Václav Vavryčuk 《Pure and Applied Geophysics》1994,143(4):563-586

Complete relations are derived for energy and energy flux of elastic waves generated by an isotropic and double-couple source in a perfectly elastic, homogeneous, isotropic, and unbounded medium. In the energy balance of elastodynamic sources near-field waves play an essential role, transforming static energy into wave energy, andvice versa. For explosive and dislocation sources, the sources surface radiates a positive wave energy that is partially distributed to the medium transforming into static energy. For implosive and antidislocation sources, the source surface generates elastic waves, but it does not necessarily imply that it also radiates a positive wave energy. The energy transported by waves can originate in gradual transformation of the static-to-wave energy during propagation of waves through a stressed medium.On leave from Geophysical Institute, Czech Academy of Sciences, Boní II/1401, 41 31, Praha 4 Czech Republic  相似文献   

The role of bathymetry and directional wave conditions on observed crescentic bar dynamics     

Rinse L. de Swart  Francesca Ribas  Gonzalo Simarro  Jorge Guillén  Daniel Calvete 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2021,46(15):3252-3270

Nearshore sandbars are important features in the surf zone of many beaches because they strongly influence the mean circulation and evolving morphology. Due to variations in wave conditions, sandbars can experience cross-shore migration and vary in shape from alongshore uniform (shore-parallel) to alongshore rhythmic (crescentic). Sandbar dynamics have been studied extensively, but existing observational studies usually do not quantify the processes leading to crescentic bar formation and straightening. This study analyses the dynamics of crescentic bar events at the fetch-limited beach of Castelldefels (northwestern Mediterranean Sea, Spain) using 7.5 years of hourly time-exposure video images and detailed wave conditions. The results show that, despite the generally calm wave conditions, the sandbars were very dynamic in the cross-shore and longshore directions. They often migrated rapidly offshore during storms (up to 70 m in one day) and more slowly onshore during post-storm conditions. Crescentic bars were often present at the study site (48% of the time), but only when the sandbar was at least 10 m from the shoreline. They displayed a large variability in wavelengths (100–700 m), alongshore migration speeds (0–50 m/day) and cross-shore amplitudes (5–20 m). Wavelengths increased for larger bar–shoreline distances and the alongshore migration speeds were strongly correlated with the alongshore component of the radiation stresses. Crescentic patterns typically developed during low–medium energetic waves with limited obliquity ( $\theta \lesssim 20$° at 10 m depth), while bar straightening occurred during medium–high energetic waves with strong oblique angles of incidence ( $\theta \gtrsim 15$°). Overall, this study provides further proof for the important role of wave direction in crescentic bar dynamics and highlights the strong dependence of crescentic bar development on the initial bathymetric configuration.  相似文献   

Scattering of elastic waves by a fracture zone containing randomly distributed cracks     

Jun Kawahara  Teruo Yamashita 《Pure and Applied Geophysics》1992,139(1):121-144

We theoretically study the scattering ofP, SV andSH waves by a zonal distribution of cracks, which simulates a fault fracture zone. An investigation is conducted how the geometrical properties of the crack distribution and the frictional characteristics of the crack surface are reflected in the attenuation and dispersion of incident waves, as well as in the amplitudes of the transmitted and reflected waves from the zone. If the crack distribution within the fault zone changes temporally during the preparation process of the expected earthquake, it will be important for earthquake prediction to monitor it, utilizing the scattering-induced wave phenomena.We consider the two-dimensional problem. Aligned cracks with the same length are assumed to be randomly distributed in a zone with a finite width, on which elastic waves are assumed to be incident. The distribution of cracks is assumed to be homogeneous and sparse. The crack surface is assumed to be stress-free, or to undergo viscous friction; the latter case simulates fluid-filled cracks. The opening displacement of the crack is assumed to be negligibly small. The idea of the mean wave formalism is employed in the analysis, and Foldy's approximation is assumed.When the crack surface is stress-free, it is commonly observed for every wave mode (P, SV andSH) that the attenuation coefficientQ ^–1 peaks aroundka1, the phase velocity is almost independent ofk in the rangeka<1 and it increases monotonically withk in the rangeka>1, wherek is the intrinsicS wavenumber anda is the half length of the crack. The effect of the friction is to shift the peak ofQ ^–1 and the corner of the phase velocity curve to the low wavenumber range. The high wavenumber asymptote ofQ ^–1 is proportional tok ^–1 independently of model parameters and the wave modes. If the seismological observation thatQ ^–1 ofS waves has a peak at around 0.5 Hz in the earth's crust is combined with our results, the upper limit of crack size within the crust is estimated about 4 km. The information regarding the transmitted and reflected waves, such as the high wavenumber limit of the amplitude of the transmitted wave etc., allows estimation of the strength of the friction.  相似文献