Hilbert Transferin Applied to Separation of Waves     

孙鹤泉  王永学  彭静萍 《中国海洋工程》2002,(2)

The analytical method (AM) for separation of composite waves is presented based on the Hilbert transform. It is ap-plicable to both regular and irregular trains of waves. The wave data series measured with two wave gauges in the experi-ments are separated into two series of incident and reflected waves. Then, the reflection coefficient can be easily ob-tained. The arrival of reflected waves can also be detected for improveraent of the accuracy of the reflection coefficient. The reflection performance of the physical model can be estimated exactly without calculation of wave height and phase difference. Numerical samples developed to test the method are proved to be accurate. Physical experiments are conduct-ed and compared with Goda s method and satisfactory results are obtained.  相似文献   

Ocean Waves: Half-a-Century of Discovery   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Paul H. LeBlond 《Journal of Oceanography》2002,58(1):3-9

While the nature of most ocean waves has long been known and their basic physics understood since the nineteenth century, intense study of ocean waves during the second half of the twentieth century has taken the subject from the realm of mathematical exercises to that of practical engineering. Modern understanding of the generation, propagation and interactions of ocean waves with each other and with oceanic features has advanced to a quantitative level offering predictive capacity. This paper presents a brief qualitative review of advances in knowledge of sound waves, wind waves, tsunamis, tides, internal waves and long-period vorticity waves. The review is aimed at non-specialists who may benefit from an overview of the current state of the subject and access to a bibliography of general-interest references. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.  相似文献   

环台湾岛海域半日潮波特征的三维模拟   总被引：10，自引：0，他引：10  

沙文钰  吕新刚  陈希  张文静 《海洋学报》2001,23(4):31-40

用1997版POM海洋模式,首次应用于环台湾岛海域的潮波数值研究.得到该海域的半日潮波主要为23°N以南西太平洋传来的胁振潮.影响台湾海峡的半日潮波分别由海峡南北口传入的两支潮波,且北支强于南支.福建沿岸湄州湾-兴化湾为最强潮区,其M₂分潮最大振幅可达240cm.最强潮流区位于澎湖水道,M₂分潮最大潮流达196cm/s.环台湾岛海域潮波潮流水平结构上除海峡北部原有一个圆流点外,还发现另外存在4个新的圆流点.潮流垂直结构上主要为右偏,接近底层处为左偏.  相似文献   

风暴潮灾与月相     

郭洪寿  陈祥福 《海洋预报》1992,9(2):39-45

本文以实测资料为依据,统计分析了风暴潮灾、风暴潮、登陆台风、天文高潮等与月相的关系。统计资料表明,登陆台风和台风风暴潮发生在大(小)潮期的次数相对较多,略大于平均数,但它们与月相没有明显的因果关系,它们相对于月相的分布大致上是随机的,如果台风在天文大潮期间登陆,台风引起的暴潮与天文潮叠加后成灾的概率明显增大,但也不一定成灾;成了灾的,往往是风暴潮峰值适逢当日的天文高潮所致。  相似文献   

杭州湾北岸潮滩波浪特征与统计分布     

陈卫跃 《海洋科学》1990,14(6):16-22

  相似文献   

长江口三维潮流数值计算及动力分析   总被引：10，自引：1，他引：10  

于凤香  宋志尧  李瑞杰 《海洋湖沼通报》2003,(3):14-23

采用三维动力学数学模型对长江口潮流场进行了计算，对长江口潮流流态在一个潮周期内逐时进行了分析，并对长江口南支盐水倒灌从动力学角度进行了初步探讨。计算结果表明：文中模型较好地重演长江口潮流场，可以用于大型复杂河口工程实际中的潮流场的计算和分析。  相似文献   

9914号(Dan)台风浪的后报试验研究   总被引：5，自引：2，他引：5  

王彩欣  张占海  王可光 《海洋通报》2003,22(1):9-16

利用WAM第三代海浪模式的第四版本(WAMC4)对40a来造成福建沿海灾害最严重的9914号台风海浪过程进行了后报试验，并与近岸常规观测和卫星高度计有效波高资料进行了比较。与常规观测站的比较结果表明，WAMC4能较好地再现海浪的发展过程。后报结果与TOPEX/POSEIDON和ERS-2卫星观测资料的对比研究表明，风速的后报结果与卫星观测有较好的一致性，但海浪的后报比卫星高度计反演的有效波高整体略偏低。  相似文献   

Observations of resuspended diatoms in the turbid tidal edge     

Cathy H. Lucas 《Journal of Sea Research》2003,50(4):301-308

Observations of resuspended diatoms in the shallow waters (<60 cm) of the turbid tidal edge are described for single sites on two tidal flats–the Molenplaat in the Westerschelde estuary, and the Hond in the Ems-Dollard estuary, The Netherlands. High concentrations of chlorophyll-a (chl-a) were observed in the trailing edge of the ebbing tide in water depths of <20 cm, after which concentrations decreased markedly. Peak mean values were 19 μg chl-a l⁻¹ in 10 cm of water at the Molenplaat, and 45 μg chl-a l⁻¹ in 5 cm of water at the Hond. Similar trends were observed on the flooding tide, although peak values were far less pronounced (6 and 30 μg chl-a l⁻¹ respectively). Microscopic examination of the diatom community within the turbid tidal edge at the Molenplaat revealed that peaks in biomass were caused by suspended benthic diatoms, as well as the large centric diatom Coscinodiscus sp., particularly on the ebb tide. Planktonic diatoms other than Coscinodiscus sp. were more randomly distributed and did not appear to follow any particular trend. It would seem that as the tide recedes, resuspended benthic diatoms and large Coscinodiscus sp. cells become concentrated in the shallow water. However, the virtual absence of Coscinodiscus sp. from the leading edge of the flooding tide suggests that most of the resuspended cells do not settle to the seabed, but are washed away into the channels. The small peak of benthic diatoms at the leading edge of the flood tide is most likely resuspended locally from the sediment, along with large numbers of diatom frustules.  相似文献   

Semidiurnal Dynamics of Salinity, Nutrients and Suspended Particulate Matter in an Estuary in the Seto Inland Sea, Japan, during a Spring Tide Cycle   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

Paolo Magni  Shigeru Montani  Kuninao Tada 《Journal of Oceanography》2002,58(2):389-402

The physical and chemical variability of the water column at subtidal station of an estuary in the Seto Inland Sea, Japan, was studied over a 24-hour period during a spring tide (tidal range ca. 2 m) in May 1995. Surface water and several depths through the water column were monitored every one and two hours, respectively. At each occasion, water temperature, salinity and dissolved oxygen concentration were measured and water samples were collected for the determination of nutrients and suspended particulate matter (SPM). Disruptive changes in the physical and chemical characteristics of the water was produced by the tidal cycle and the mixing of water masses of different origin. These changes were highly significant both spatially and temporally, yet with varying effects on physical parameters, nutrients and the different components of SPM. Significant differences in nutrient concentrations were also observed when the data-set was divided into ebb and flood components, irrespective of the depth. Nitrate and nitrite rose to 1.8 times higher during the flood. Spatial differences of SPM were less marked than those of nutrients, only particulate organic carbon (POC) being significantly higher at the surface than in the intermediate and the lower layer. Both POC and pheopigment concentrations increased markedly through the water column, being highest shortly before the lower low tide. In contrast, suspended solid (SS) content increased sharply after the lower low tide (>40 mg l⁻¹) and this coincided with a marked decrease of the C/SS content (<20 mg g⁻¹). The lagtime between POC and SS tidal transport was caused by particle resuspension from the exposed intertidal sediments as the tidal level rose, and particle transport selection in relation to the tidal state. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.  相似文献   

潮流沙脊的水力学问题探讨     

刘振夏  夏东兴 《海洋科学进展》1995,(4)

借用河流水力学顺直河道中有两个次生横向环流的假说来解释潮流沙脊的成因，水槽实验和实际观察也支持了这一观点．正是这一次生的纵轴横向环流（即螺旋流）将泥沙从沟槽带向脊顶，建造了大致与潮流方向平行的潮流沙脊．根据底质粒度成份和分布特点．可分为粗底质沙脊和细底质沙脊两类．前者组成物质偏粗，底质分布为脊细槽粗，后者组成物质偏细，底质分布为脊粗槽细．这是因为影响颗粒起动流速的主导因素不同，前者以重力为主，后者以颗粒间粘结力为主．它们都反映沟槽中流速大于脊顶处流速．  相似文献