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101.
The analytical method (AM) for separation of composite waves is presented based on the Hilbert transform. It is ap-plicable to both regular and irregular trains of waves. The wave data series measured with two wave gauges in the experi-ments are separated into two series of incident and reflected waves. Then, the reflection coefficient can be easily ob-tained. The arrival of reflected waves can also be detected for improveraent of the accuracy of the reflection coefficient. The reflection performance of the physical model can be estimated exactly without calculation of wave height and phase difference. Numerical samples developed to test the method are proved to be accurate. Physical experiments are conduct-ed and compared with Goda s method and satisfactory results are obtained. 相似文献
102.
Ocean Waves: Half-a-Century of Discovery 总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1
Paul H. LeBlond 《Journal of Oceanography》2002,58(1):3-9
While the nature of most ocean waves has long been known and their basic physics understood since the nineteenth century,
intense study of ocean waves during the second half of the twentieth century has taken the subject from the realm of mathematical
exercises to that of practical engineering. Modern understanding of the generation, propagation and interactions of ocean
waves with each other and with oceanic features has advanced to a quantitative level offering predictive capacity. This paper
presents a brief qualitative review of advances in knowledge of sound waves, wind waves, tsunamis, tides, internal waves and
long-period vorticity waves. The review is aimed at non-specialists who may benefit from an overview of the current state
of the subject and access to a bibliography of general-interest references.
This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date. 相似文献
103.
根据1983-1989年南麂海洋站在台风影响过程中的实测风和浪资料,分析了该海域的波浪特征。结果表明,这个海域的台风波浪通常是混合浪,在台风影响过程中出现的最大值波高,既有较大波陡的风浪,也有波陡较小的清浪;各向波高的均值变化不大,各向最大波高却有较大幅度的差距;本区的台风浪以4级波高占优,风浪以NNE向、涌浪以E向为常浪向;波高为4级的风浪和涌浪,其周期分别在4.0-4.9S和7.0-7.9S之 相似文献
104.
环台湾岛海域半日潮波特征的三维模拟 总被引:10,自引:0,他引:10
用1997版POM海洋模式,首次应用于环台湾岛海域的潮波数值研究.得到该海域的半日潮波主要为23°N以南西太平洋传来的胁振潮.影响台湾海峡的半日潮波分别由海峡南北口传入的两支潮波,且北支强于南支.福建沿岸湄州湾-兴化湾为最强潮区,其M2分潮最大振幅可达240cm.最强潮流区位于澎湖水道,M2分潮最大潮流达196cm/s.环台湾岛海域潮波潮流水平结构上除海峡北部原有一个圆流点外,还发现另外存在4个新的圆流点.潮流垂直结构上主要为右偏,接近底层处为左偏. 相似文献
105.
106.
The transformation of nonlinear water waves over porous beds is studied by applying a numerical model based on Chen's [2006. Fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations for waves and currents over porous beds. Journal of Engineering Mechanics, 132:2, 220–230] Boussinesq-type equations for highly nonlinear waves on permeable beds. The numerical model uses a high-order time-marching solution and fourth-order finite-difference schemes for discretization of first-order spatial derivatives to obtain a computational accuracy consistent with the model equations. By forcing the wave celerity and spatial porous-damping rate of the linearized model to match the exact linear theory for horizontal porous bed over a prescribed range of relative depths, the values of the model parameters are optimally determined. Numerical simulations of the damped wave propagation over finite-thickness porous layer demonstrate the accuracy of both the numerical model and governing equations, which have been shown by prior theoretical analyses to be accurate for both nominal and thick porous layers. These simulations also elucidate on the significance of the higher-order porous-damping terms and the influence of the hydraulic parameters. Application of the model to the simulation of the wave field around a laboratory-scale submerged porous mound provides a measure of its capability, as well as useful insight into the scaling of the porous-resistance coefficients. For application to heterogeneous porous beds, the assumption of weak spatial variation of the porous resistance is examined using truncated forms of the governing equations. The results indicate that the complete set of Boussinesq-type equations is applicable to porous beds of nonhomogeneous makeup. 相似文献
107.
An algorithm (differential mode) is presented for the improvement of harmonic tidal analysis along T/P tracks, in which the differences between the observed sea surface heights at adjacent points are taken as observations. Also, the observation equations are constrained with the results of the crossover analysis; the parameter estimations are performed at 0.1° latitude intervals by the least squares. Cycle 10 to 330 T/P altimeter data covering the China Sea and the Northwest Pacific Ocean (2°-50° N,105°-150° E) are adopted for a refined along-track harmonic tidal analysis, and harmonic constants of 12 constituents in 8 474 points are obtained, which indicates that the algorithm can efficiently remove non-tidal effects in the altimeter observations, and improve the precision of tide parameters. Moreover, parameters along altimetry tracks represent a smoother distribution than those obtained by traditional algorithms. The root mean squares of the fitting errors between the tidal height model and the observations reduce from 11 cm to 1.3 cm. 相似文献
108.
针对重力学随机Dirichlet问题,通过适当地对边界检验函数的分解,并在随机边界样本空间中提取确定性部分的对偶基,本文将随机Dirichlet问题的一般解展开为一随机系数的调和级数形式。 相似文献
109.
Rabindra Kumar Bhattacharyya 《Pure and Applied Geophysics》1996,146(3-4):677-688
In this paper the smooth perturbation technique is employed to investigate the problem of reflection of waves incident on the plane boundary of a semi-infinite elastic medium with randomly varying inhomogeneities. Amplitude ratios have been obtained for various types of incident and reflected waves. It has been shown that an incidentSH orSV type of wave gives rise to reflectedSH, P andSV waves, the main components beingSH andP, SV in the respective cases. The reflected amplitudes have been calculated depending upon the randomness of the medium to the square of the small quantity , where measures the deviation of the medium from homogeneity. An incidentP-type wave produces mainly aP component and also a weakSH component to the order of 2. The reflected amplitudes obtainable for elastic media are also altered by terms of the same order. The direction of the reflected wave is influenced by randomness in some cases. 相似文献
110.
Any calculation of seismic wave propagation comprising the seismic source, the travel path, and the receiver site in a single finite-difference (FD) model requires a considerable amount of computer time and memory. Moreover, the methods currently available for including point sources in the 2D FD calculations are far-field approximations only. Therefore we have developed a new hybrid method for treating the seismic wave fields at localized 2D near-surface structures embedded in a 1D background medium, and excited by a point source. The source radiation and propagation in the background model is solved by the discrete-wave number (DW) method, while the propagation in the local 2D structure is calculated by the FD method. The coupling between the two sets of calculations is performed on a rectangular excitation box surrounding the local structure. We show the usefulness of the method in ground-motion studies where both near-field source effects and local site effects are important. Technical problems connected with the inconsistency between the 3D source radiation and the 2D FD calculation are minor for the relatively distant in-plane point explosive sources, but are more serious for the in-plane dislocation sources. 相似文献