共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 15 毫秒
1.
This study investigates the initialization of nonlinear free-surface simulations in a numerical wave flume.Due to the mismatch between the linear input wavemaker motion and the kinematics of fully nonlinear waves,direct numerical simulations of progressive waves,generated by a sinusoidally moving wavemaker,are prone to suffering from high-frequency wave instability unless the flow is given sufficient time to adjust.A time ramp is superimposed on the wavemaker motion at the start that allows nonlinear free-surface simulations to be initialized with linear input.The duration of the ramp is adjusted to test its efficiency for short waves and long waves.Numerical results show that the time ramp scheme is effiective to stabilize the wave instability at the start of the simulation in a wave flume. 相似文献
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Cross-shore variations of wave groupiness by wavelet transform 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
This paper proposes a new definition of groupiness factor (GF) based on the local wavelet energy density of the wave time series to describe the groupiness degree of waves. The main advantage of this new GF is that the effect of the operational definition on it is smaller than that on SIWEH-based GF or envelop-based GF. Then, the new GF is used to study the groupiness variations of mechanically generated irregular waves in a wave flume propagating on a slope of 1:45. The results of present study show that the decrease of groupiness in the coast is triggered by breaking. And energy distribution along the record time for the first harmonics of waves in the surf zone, which becomes more uniform than that out the surf zone, is the main reason causing the decrease of groupiness. 相似文献
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A new technique for measuring wave profiles by wavelet transform using the Mexican Hat wavelet as the mother wavelet is introduced. This technique has the potential to provide low cost, high resolution field measurements of wave profiles in the laboratory. The experiments to capture the video image of the wave profile were carried out in a wave flume. Then, the Mexican Hat wavelet was adopted to trace out the exact profiles of the waves from the captured video images. The series of tests on numerical data and video images show promise as means of detecting two-dimensional profiles of waves. 相似文献
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The physical simulation method of wave groups in a wave flume is proposed and verified by the exper- iments. The experimental results demonstrate that random waves with desired wave groupiness, which simultaneously includes the wave group height and length, can be generated satisfactorily at the specified position in a wave flume using the proposed method. Furthermore, the transformation properties of the wave groupiness along the fiat-bottomed wave flume are investigated based on the physically simulated waves. Associated proposals with the physical simulation of wave groups are given. 相似文献
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A numerical irregular wave flume with active absorption of re-reflected waves is simulated by use of volume of fluid （VOF） method. An active ＇absorbing wave-maker based on linear wave theory is set on the left boundary of the wave flume. The progressive waves and the absorbing waves are generated simultaneously at the active wave generating-absorbing boundary. The absorbing waves are generated to eliminate the waves coming back to the generating boundary due to reflection from the outflow boundary and the structures. SIRW method proposed by Frigaard and Brorsen （1995） is used to separate the incident waves and reflected waves. The digital filters are designed based on the surface elevation signals of the two wave gauges. The corrected velocity of the wave-maker paddle is the output from the digital filter in real time. The numerical results of regular and irregular waves by the active absorbing-generating boundary are compared with the numerical results by the ordinary generating boundary to verify the performance of the active absorbing-generator boundary. The differences between the initial incident waves and the estimated incident waves are analyzed. 相似文献
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With growing computational power, the first-order wave-maker theory has become well established and is widely used for numerical wave flumes. However, existing numerical models based on the first-order wave-maker theory lose accuracy as nonlinear effects become prominent. Because spurious harmonic waves and primary waves have different propagation velocities, waves simulated by using the first-order wave-maker theory have an unstable wave profile. In this paper, a numerical wave flume with a piston-type wave-maker based on the second-order wave-maker theory has been established. Dynamic mesh technique was developed. The boundary treatment for irregular wave simulation was specially dealt with. Comparisons of the free-surface elevations using the first-order and second-order wave-maker theory prove that second-order wave-maker theory can generate stable wave profiles in both the spatial and time domains. Harmonic analysis and spectral analysis were used to prove the superiority of the second-order wave-maker theory from other two aspects. To simulate irregular waves, the numerical flume was improved to solve the problem of the water depth variation due to low-frequency motion of the wave board. In summary, the new numerical flume using the second-order wave-maker theory can guarantee the accuracy of waves by adding an extra motion of the wave board. The boundary treatment method can provide a reference for the improvement of nonlinear numerical flume. 相似文献
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Wavelet analysis for processing of ocean surface wave records 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Stanis
aw R. Massel 《Ocean Engineering》2001,28(8):165
Wavelet analysis is a relatively new technique and in the recent years enormous interest in application of wavelets has been observed. This modern technique is particularly suitable for non-stationary processes as in contrast to the Fourier transform, (FT), the wavelet transform (WT) allows exceptional localization, both in time and frequency domains. The wavelet transform has been successfully implemented in signal and image processing, ordinary and partial differential equation theory, numerical analysis, communication theory and other fields. On the other hand, the application of the WT to ocean engineering and oceanography is rare. In this paper the WTs capability to give a full time–frequency representation of the wave signals is demonstrated. The processing of the time series of the non-stationary deep water waves, waves breaking at the tropical coral reefs and mechanically generated waves in the wave flume demonstrates the ability of the wavelet transform technique to detect a complex variability of these signals in the time–frequency domain. Various spectral representations resulting from the wavelet transform are discussed and their application for wave signals is shown. 相似文献
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为研究以流体粒子描述波浪运动，以固体单元描述砾石运动的两相介质大变形运动，在港口、海岸工程科学研究中具有重要意义。本文提出砾石单元法（GEM），介绍了光滑粒子动力学方法（SPH）和GEM的基本原理，阐述了GEM与离散单元法（DEM）的异同之处，说明了采用SPH方法与GEM构建波浪砾石耦合运动数学模型的方法和过程。应用SPH方法建立数值波浪水槽，用GEM模拟波浪作用下堆积砾石的滚落、坍塌变形，构建了SPH方法与GEM耦合数学模型。模拟了水槽造波和波浪生成过程和波浪作用下砾石的滚落、坍塌变形，并与物理模型试验成果进行了比较，结果基本吻合。本文提出的GEM法具有模拟单相堆积砾石运动和堆积砾石与流体粒子耦合多相介质运动的功能，是对DEM法的补充和改善。本文提出的堆积力学球概念和拟序排列求解方法是砾石单元法的重要组成部分。 相似文献
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1.IntroductionGreat progress has been madeinthe statistics of sea waves based onthe envelopetheory of Gaus-sian processes.Longuet-Higgins(1975,1983)first obtainedthe joint probability distributionfunction(PDF)of wave heights and periods.His work was exten… 相似文献
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This work presents a new approach for simulating the random waves in viscous fluids and the associated bottom shear stresses. By generating the incident random waves in a numerical wave flume and solving the unsteady two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the fully nonlinear free surface boundaiy conditions for the fluid flows in the flume, the viscous flows and laminar bottom shear stresses induced by random waves axe determined. The deterministic spectral amplitude method implemented by use of the fast Fourier transform algorithm was adopted to generate the incident random waves. The accuracy of the numerical scheme is confirmed by comparing the predicted wave spectrum with the target spectrum and by comparing the nanlerical transfer function between the shear stress and the surface elevation with the theoretical transfer function. The maximum bottom shear stress caused by random waves, computed by this wave model, is compared with that obtained by Myrhaug＇ s model （1995）. The transfer function method is also employed to determine the maximum shear stress, and is proved accurate. 相似文献
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A semi-analytical nonlinear wavemaker model is derived to predict the generation and propagation of transient nonlinear waves in a wave flume. The solution is very efficient and is achieved by applying eigenfunction expansions and FFT. The model is applied to study the effect of the wavemaker and its motion on the generation and propagation of nonlinear waves. The results indicate that the linear wavemaker theory may be applied to predict only the generation of waves of low steepness for which the nonlinear terms in the kinematic wavemaker boundary condition and free-surface boundary conditions are of secondary importance. For waves of moderate steepness and steep waves these nonlinear terms have substantial effects on wave profile and wave spectrum just after the wavemaker. A wave spectrum corresponding to a sinusoidally moving wavemaker possesses a multi-peak form with substantial nonlinear components, which disturbs or may even exclude physical modeling in wave flumes. The analysis shows that the widely recognized weakly nonlinear wavemaker theory may only be applied to describe the generation and propagation of waves of low steepness. This is subject to further restrictions in shallow and deep waters because the kinematic wavemaker boundary condition as well as the nonlinear interaction of wave components and the evolution of wave energy spectrum is not properly described by weakly nonlinear wavemaker theory. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify the nonlinear wavemaker model. The comparisons show a reasonable agreement between predicted and measured free-surface elevation and the corresponding amplitudes of Fourier series. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed even for fairly steep waves. 相似文献
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Some authors have developed a few methods of measuring wave slopes based on light refraction, including the measurement method via the distribution of light intensity or color under water. A new method based on light refraction is specified for the measurement of wave surface elevation in wave flume via imaging technology. A plane painted with black and white stripes is put on the flume floor as an indication plane, which can be arranged easily and cheaply. Compared with the previous methods, the present method is less sensitive to the noise and nonlinear effects of optical process, which can be taken as a digital method. The CCD camera is fixed above the flume with its optical axis arranged vertically to grab the images of stripes modulated by the wave surface. The modulated value can be calculated from the Hilbert transform, and then the wave surface elevation can be obtained. The algorithm and experimental procedure are specified in detail, and some experimental results are provided to show the validity of the present method. 相似文献
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Approximate Stream Function wavemaker theory for highly non-linear waves in wave flumes 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
An approximate Stream Function wavemaker theory for highly non-linear regular waves in flumes is presented. This theory is based on an ad hoc unified wave-generation method that combines linear fully dispersive wavemaker theory and wave generation for non-linear shallow water waves. This is done by applying a dispersion correction to the paddle position obtained for non-linear long waves. The method is validated by a number of wave flume experiments while comparing with results of linear wavemaker theory, second-order wavemaker theory and Cnoidal wavemaker theory within its range of application. 相似文献
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Long time series of wave field are experimentally simulated by JONSWAP spectra with random phases in a 2D wave flume. Statistic properties of wave surface, such as significant wave height, skewness and kurtosis, are analyzed, and the freak wave occurrence probability and its relations with Benjamin-Feir index （BFI） are also investigated. The results show that the skewness and the kurtosis are significantly dependent on the wave steepness, and the kurtosis increases along the flume when BFI is large. The freak waves are observed in random wave groups. They occur more frequently than expected, especially for the wave groups with large BFI. 相似文献
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The basic features of higher harmonic waves were originally presented by Stokes in 1847 who showed that a 2nd-order regular wave would attain a higher, sharper crest and a flatter trough than the basic linear one. In this paper, these characteristics are investigated for an irregular wave train. This was done to make it possible to reproduce in a laboratory flume a wave train which has the correct profile and rms according to 2nd-order theory. The 2nd-order wave heights and the overall horizontal asymmetries of the wave train were calculated for a 1st-order PM and a Jonswap spectrum. The theoretical predictions show that the traditional wave generation in a laboratory flume which is based on linear theory produces free 2nd-order waves in addition to the bound 2nd-order waves described by Stokes. These free, parasitic waves incorrectly distort the shape of the waves and produce a varying rms as a function of distance from the wave paddle. In the 2nd-order theory presented in this paper, these free (parasitic) waves are calculated for the entire spectrum. Knowing these, they can be eliminated by compensating for them by using a 2nd-order control signal on the wave paddle. This is verified by a series of model tests which show that realistic wave profiles can be generated only by means of 2nd-order control signals. The theory and corresponding paddle control are presented for any type of translating, rotating or combined wave generator. 相似文献
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Wave measurement based on light refraction 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Some authors have developed a few methods of measuring wave slopes based on light refraction, including the measurement method via the distribution of light intensity or color under water. A new method based on light refraction is specified for the measurement of wave surface elevation in wave flume via imaging technology. A plane painted with black and white stripes is put on the flume floor as an indication plane, which can be arranged easily and cheaply. Compared with the previous methods, the present method is less sensitive to the noise and nonlinear effects of optical process, which can be taken as a digital method. The CCD camera is fixed above the flume with its optical axis arranged vertically to grab the images of stripes modulated by the wave surface. The modulated value can be calculated from the Hilbert transform, and then the wave surface elevation can be obtained. The algorithm and experimental procedure are specified in detail, and some experimental results are provided to show the validity of the present method. 相似文献
20.
The Lagrangian surface drift current induced by surface gravity waves in a wave flume has been investigated experimentally by the particle tracking method. It was observed that in most regions of the flume, the time-mean surface drift current was in the opposite direction to that of the wave propagation. The secondary current in the form of a pair of longitudinal vortices caused by the lateral boundaries was analyzed. It is suggested that the convection of the vorticity generated by the wave-absorber and the lateral boundaries is an important factor in the determination of the time-mean drift in a wave flume. 相似文献