共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 468 毫秒
1.
A numerical irregular wave flume with active absorption of re-reflected waves is simulated by use of volume of fluid （VOF） method. An active ＇absorbing wave-maker based on linear wave theory is set on the left boundary of the wave flume. The progressive waves and the absorbing waves are generated simultaneously at the active wave generating-absorbing boundary. The absorbing waves are generated to eliminate the waves coming back to the generating boundary due to reflection from the outflow boundary and the structures. SIRW method proposed by Frigaard and Brorsen （1995） is used to separate the incident waves and reflected waves. The digital filters are designed based on the surface elevation signals of the two wave gauges. The corrected velocity of the wave-maker paddle is the output from the digital filter in real time. The numerical results of regular and irregular waves by the active absorbing-generating boundary are compared with the numerical results by the ordinary generating boundary to verify the performance of the active absorbing-generator boundary. The differences between the initial incident waves and the estimated incident waves are analyzed. 相似文献
2.
In this paper, the diffraction of water waves by a vertically floating cylinder in a two-layer fluid of a finite depth is studied. Analytical expressions for the hydrodynamic loads on the vertically floating cylinder are obtained by use of the method of eigenfunction expansions. The hydrodynamic loads on the vertically floating cylinder in a two-layer fluid inelude not only the surge, heave and pitch exciting forces due to the incident wave of the surface-wave mode, but also those due to the incident wave of the internal-wave mode. This is different from the case of a homogenous fluid. Some given examples show that, for a two-layer fluid system with a small density difference, the hydrodynamic loads for the surface-wave mode do not differ significantly from those due to surface waves in a single-layer fluid, but the hydrodynamic loads for the internal-wave mode are important over a wide range of frequencies. Moreover, also considered are the free surface and interface elevations generated by the diffraction wave due to the incident wave of the surface-wave and interhal-wave modes, and transfer of energy between modes. 相似文献
3.
Underwater ultrasonic acoustic transducers are frequently used in ocean wave measurements as they measure surface level using acoustic waves. However, their effectiveness can be severely affected in rough sea conditions, when bubbles generated by breaking waves interfere with their acoustic signals. When the seas are rough, one therefore often has to rely on a pressure transducer, which is generally used as a back-up for the acoustic wave gauge. A pressure transfer function is then used to obtain the surface wave information. Alternatively, the present study employed an artificial neural network to convert the pressure signal into significant wave height, significant wave period, maximum wave height, and spectral peakedness parameter using data obtained from various water depths. The results showed that, for water depths greater than 20 m, the wave parameters obtained from the artificial neural network were significantly closer to those obtained by the acoustic measurements than those obtained by using a linear pressure transfer function. Moreover, for a given water depth, the wave heights estimated by the network model from pressure data were not as good as those estimated by linear wave theory for large wave heights (above a 4 m significant wave height in this study). This can be improved if the training data set has more records with large wave heights. 相似文献
4.
数值波浪水槽是研究波浪及波浪与结构相互作用的常用工具，可在真实尺度下产生波浪，并提供流场的详细数据。然而，大部分数值波浪水槽都存在数值耗散和数值色散问题，数值耗散使波能缓慢消散，数值弥散在波传播过程中使波频移。本文在有限差分法（FDM）求解欧拉方程的基础上，提出了一种抑制数值耗散效应的简单方法，考虑阻尼项的影响，对波的传播解进行了解析求解。该方法的主要思想是在动量方程中附加一个源项，其强度由数值阻尼效应的强度决定。本文通过对规则线性波、Stokes波和不规则波的数值模拟，验证了该方法的有效性。结果表明，本文方法可有效减小数值波浪水槽中存在的数值耗散现象。 相似文献
5.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,36(1):17-36
A time domain method is presented for analyzing simultaneous measurements of pressure and the horizontal components of velocity obtained beneath irregular multidirectional wave fields. This new method differs from the usual linear directional analyses applied to PUV data in two important aspects. First, the essential nonlinearity of the measured waves is not sacrificed to achieve a solution. Therefore, predictions of sea surface elevation and directional kinematics throughout the water column accurately portray the actual nonlinear character of the waves. Second, the analysis method is `local' in that it can be applied to segments of PUV time series much shorter than an individual wave. The viability of the locally nonlinear methodology developed in this paper is proven by demonstrating agreement with higher-order theoretical steady waves. Predictions of sea surface elevation and wave kinematics are also made using actual measurements from PUV instruments at two ocean sites off the west coast of the United States. 相似文献
6.
This is an experimental study of the acoustic method of surface-wave excitation using an underwater source of high-frequency
(950 kHz) sound. The surface waves are excited at the sound-beam modulation frequency (3–55 Hz). For a normal fall onto the
free surface, the modulated sound beam efficiently generates waves in the gravity-capillary range. This provides flexible
electronic control of the main wave parameters (frequency and amplitude) in the packet and continuous modes. The amplitude-frequency
characteristics of the process of surface-wave generation were obtained by numerical calculations (based on equations for
the rate of acoustic flux and propagation of gravity-capillary surface waves) and by experiments (based on surface wave measurements
by optical and contact methods). Both values are very consistent: on the background of a similar monotonic attenuation with
frequency, they have a local dip near the minimum of the phase velocity and oscillation in the frequency range above 20 Hz.
The experiments on the excitation of wave packets by single acoustic messages with varying lengths and powers, as well as
by falling water drops, indicated that, in all cases, the phase characteristics are satisfactorily consistent with one another
and the time needed for the signal to arrive at the measurement point is determined by the group velocity. 相似文献
7.
The standing wave pressures due to laboratory-generated regular and random waves exerted on a vertical wall were measured in a wave flume. The standing wave pressures were measured at four relative depths of submergence on the test model. The regular wave test conditions ranged from intermediate to deep water conditions. The measured pressures due to regular waves were compared with results obtained using linear theory and third-order solution. In the case of random wave tests, the dynamic pressures due to the time histories of water surface elevation following the spectral characteristics of Pierson-Moskowitz and Bretschneider spectra were measured. These pressures are compared with simulated pressures obtained through the linear filter technique of Reid. The variation of pressure spectra along the depth are presented. In addition, comparison of spectral parameters, i.e. zeroth moment, spectral width parameter and narrowness parameter of measured and simulated pressure spectra, are reported and discussed. The behaviour of the coherence function between the wave elevation on the wall and the corresponding pressures is also discussed. 相似文献
8.
A new coupling model of wave interaction with porous medium is established in which the wave field solver is based on the two dimensional Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations with a kε closure. Incident waves, which could be linear waves, cnoidal waves or solitary waves, are produced by a piston-type wave maker in the computational domain and the free surface is traced through the Piecewise Linear Interface Construction-Volume of Fluid (PLIC-VOF) method. Nonlinear Forchheimer equations are adopted to calculate the flow field within the porous media. By introducing a velocity–pressure correction equation, the wave field and the porous flow field are highly and efficiently coupled. The two fields are solved simultaneously and no boundary condition is needed at the interface of the internal porous flow and the external wave. The newly developed numerical model is used to simulate wave interaction with porous seabed and the numerical results agree well with the experimental data. The additional numerical tests are also conducted to study the effects of seabed thickness, porosity and permeability coefficient on wave damping and the pore water pressure responses. 相似文献
9.
In this paper, we study the harmonic generation and energy dissipation as water waves propagating through coastal vegetation. Applying the homogenization theory, linear wave models have been developed for a heterogeneous coastal forest in previous works (e.g. [17], [10], [11]). In this study, the weakly nonlinear effects are investigated. The coastal forest is modeled by an array of rigid and vertically surface-piercing cylinders. Assuming monochromatic waves with weak nonlinearity incident upon the forest, higher harmonic waves are expected to be generated and radiated into open water. Using the multi-scale perturbation theory, micro-scale flows in the vicinity of cylinders and macro-scale wave dynamics are separated. Expressing the unknown variables (e.g. velocity, free surface elevation) as a superposition of different harmonic components, the governing equations for each mode are derived while different harmonics are interacting with each other because of nonlinearity in the cell problem. Different from the linear models, the leading-order cell problem for micro-scale flow motion, driven by the macro-scale pressure gradient, is now a nonlinear boundary-value-problem, while the wavelength-scale problem for wave dynamics remains linear. A modified pressure correction method is employed to solve the nonlinear cell problem. An iterative scheme is introduced to connect the micro-scale and macro-scale problems. To demonstrate the theoretical results, we consider incident waves scattered by a homogeneous forest belt in a constant shallow depth. Higher harmonic waves are generated within the cylinder array and radiated out to the open water region. The comparisons of numerical results obtained by linear and nonlinear models are presented and the behavior of different harmonic components is discussed. The effects of different physical parameters on wave solutions are discussed as well. 相似文献
10.
利用海底地震仪数据分析台风对海底环境噪音的影响 总被引：4，自引：2，他引：2
在海底布设的海底地震仪（OBS）能比较清晰地记录到海底的环境噪音，而台风可以直接或间接的产生在海底传播的弹性波，从而影响海底的环境噪音，并在较大程度上影响OBS的数据记录。本文通过分析台风对工作区的整个影响过程中OBS记录数据的振幅变化，再选择合适的滤波方式，首次发现台风产生的风浪及涌浪在短周期海底地震仪的记录数据上有良好的表现特征，指出了台风对海底环境噪音的另一种可能的影响方式，并由此得出：1）台风产生的风浪和涌浪对海底环境噪音的影响模式不同；2）风浪和涌浪所加强的海底环境噪音的范围和程度不同；3）短周期OBS可以比较清晰的记录涌浪信息，其周期主要是6—8 s，且能量稳定（简称“8秒现象”）。这三点结论为后期的海洋地震研究和海洋学其他研究提供经验与借鉴。 相似文献
11.
1 .ＩｎｔｒｏｄｕｃｔｉｏｎＴｏｍｅａｓｕｒｅｔｈｅｒｅｆｌｅｃｔｉｏｎｏｆｉｎｃｉｄｅｎｔｗａｖｅｓｐｒｏｄｕｃｅｄｂｙａｐｈｙｓｉｃａｌｍｏｄｅｌｉｎａｗａｖｅｆｌｕｍｅｉｓａｃｏｍｍｏｎｐｒｏｂｌｅｍｗｉｔｈｐｈｙｓｉｃａｌｔｅｓｔｓｏｆｗａｖｅａｃｔｉｏｎｏｎｃｏａｓｔａｌｓｔｒｕｃｔｕｒｅｓ .Ｗａｖｅｓｇｅｎｅｒａｔｅｄｂｙｔｈｅｗａｖｅ ｍａｋｅｒｐｒｏｐａｇａｔｅｆｏｒｗａｒｄｉｎｔｈｅｗａｖｅｆｌｕｍｅａｎｄａｒｅｒｅｆｌｅｃｔｅｄｂｙｔｈｅｐｈｙｓｉｃａｌｍｏｄｅｌ,ａｎｄｔｈｅ… 相似文献
12.
Kuniaki Okuda 《Journal of Oceanography》1983,38(6):331-338
For wind waves generated in a wind-wave tunnel, the surface pressure and also the pressure distribution along the internal streamlines were calculated from the measured internal velocity field. In distinct waves, with wave height comparable with or larger than the mean, the surface pressure is found to vary drastically in a narrow region around the crest, showing a dominant minimum near the crest. On the other hand, the pressure distribution along the streamline shows systematic variations that are nearly in phase with the streamline profile. It is shown that the occurrence of the pressure in phase with the streamline profile is linked with the internal vorticity distribution, especially with the presence of a high vorticity region below the crest described in Part I of this study. As a result of the occurrence of such pressure variations, the dispersion relation is modified by about 10% from that for linear irrotational waves. It is argued from the present measurements that the dispersion relation and also the energy transfer from wind into wind waves are strongly affected by the internal vortical structure so that the assumption of irrotational gravity waves cannot be applied to the wind waves being studied. 相似文献
13.
A number of existing models for surface wave phase speeds (linear and non-linear, breaking and non-breaking waves) are reviewed and tested against phase speed data from a large-scale laboratory experiment. The results of these tests are utilized in the context of assessing the potential improvement gained by incorporating wave non-linearity in phase speed based depth inversions. The analysis is focused on the surf zone, where depth inversion accuracies are known to degrade significantly. The collected data includes very high-resolution remote sensing video and surface elevation records from fixed, in-situ wave gages. Wave phase speeds are extracted from the remote sensing data using a feature tracking technique, and local wave amplitudes are determined from the wave gage records and used for comparisons to non-linear phase speed models and for non-linear depth inversions. A series of five different regular wave conditions with a range of non-linearity and dispersion characteristics are analyzed and results show that a composite dispersion relation, which includes both non-linearity and dispersion effects, best matches the observed phase speeds across the domain and hence, improves surf zone depth estimation via depth inversions. Incorporating non-linearity into the phase speed model reduces errors to O(10%), which is a level previously found for depth inversions with small amplitude waves in intermediate water depths using linear dispersion. Considering the controlled conditions and extensive ground truth, this appears to be a practical limit for phase speed-based depth inversions. Finally, a phase speed sensitivity analysis is performed that indicates that typical nearshore sand bars should be resolvable using phase speed depth inversions. However, increasing wave steepness degrades the sensitivity of this inversion method. 相似文献
14.
Within the framework of the linear theory taking into account the action of the Coriolis force, we study waves induced in a continuously stratified fluid with one thermocline by periodic variations of pressure on the free surface. The fluid fills a bounded basin of constant depth. We establish the dependences of the wave amplitudes and wave velocities on the period of disturbing pressure. The sequence of transformations of generated waves from the barotropic character of motion to baroclinic depending on changes in the period of disturbing pressure is studied in detail. 相似文献
15.
The method of principal component beamforming described in this paper is an array data reduction method that allows one to observe the statistically uncorrelated components of wave energy arriving at an array of acoustic sensors. The method can be used to process array data so as to observe and identify the sources of noise, both environmental and self noise. After identifying the sources of noise, the method of principal components can be used to discriminate signal from noise. The method can be applied to active systems (subbottom profilers) as well as passive systems. A model of isotropic noise and incident bandlimited plane waves is used to study array resolution and bandwidth effects. Experimental data from a2 times 3 planar acoustic array were used to identify sources of hydro-flow related noise in an underwater vehicle. In all cases studied, the technique provides a maximum spatial information analysis method to the observer. 相似文献
16.
The small-scale roughness of the sea surface acts as an important link in air-sea interaction processes. Radar and sonar waves are scattered by short surface waves providing the basis for remote sensing methods of the sea surface. At high wind speeds, breaking waves occur. Bubbles penetrate into the water and drastically increase acoustical reverberation, transmission loss and ambient noise. Thus, the development of short waves and wave breaking have to be known to apply radar remote sensing to the surface and to deduce from radar backscatter which sonar conditions prevail. To measure the wind dependence of short waves an experimental device was constructed for use from stationary platforms. It is nearly all-weather capable and can easily be handled by a crane. On the other hand, frequencies of short waves measured in a fixed position are extremely frequency shifted by currents. This limits the usefulness of tower-based measurements, e.g., the short wave modulation by wind and waves or currents can only be estimated in a rough approximation. Consequently, a buoy was developed to reduce the frequency shifts. The principle of the buoy is to drift in the local surface current and to follow the amplitudes of long waves. Therefore, short waves are measured in facets of long waves and the Doppler shifts are minimized. The wind is measured at a constant height above the long wave profile and relative to the moving facets. The paper describes the conventional measuring device and points out the necessity of the drifting buoy system. Examples of wind and wave spectra are presented and short wave modulations by long waves are depicted, too. From these measurements, new insights in short wave behaviour have to be expected 相似文献
17.
A quasi-linear model for determining the aerodynamic drag coefficient of the sea surface and the growth rate of surface waves under a hurricane wind is proposed. The model explains the reduction (stabilization) in the drag coefficient during hurricane winds. This model is based on the solution of the Reynolds equations in curvilinear coordinates with the use of the approximation of the eddy viscosity, which takes into account the presence of the viscous sublayer. The profile of the mean wind velocity is found with consideration for nonlinear wave stresses (wave momentum flux), whereas wave disturbances induced in air by waves on the water surface are determined in the context of linear equations. The model is verified by comparing the calculation results with experimental data for a wide range of wind velocities. The growth rate and drag coefficient for hurricane winds are calculated both with and without consideration for the shortwave portion of the windwave spectrum. On the basis of calculations with the quasi-linear model, a simple parametrization is proposed for the drag coefficient and the growth rate of surface waves during hurricane winds. This model is convenient for use in models of forecasting winds and waves. 相似文献
18.
Peter Nielsen 《Coastal Engineering》1983,7(3):233-251
Explicit wave formulae derived from the dispersion relation for linear waves are used to find an analytical solution to the problem of wave height variation on a simple topography; i.e. topographies with incrementally constant slope and straight parallel contours. The solution accounts for shoaling, refraction and frictional dissipation and will be sufficiently accurate for practical purposes considering the simplifying assumptions that are necessary for treatment of this problem by any method. The solution is simple enough to be handled on a personal calculator and has the advantage over numerical solutions that it can be solved for other parameters, for example to give friction factors from observed wave height data. The last chapter contains updated formulae for wave friction factors over movable beds. 相似文献
19.
声学多普勒流速剖面仪(ADCP)是对海洋内波监测的有效手段,但受到仪器本身和复杂的海洋环境噪声等影响,走航式ADCP记录的海流数据存在大量噪声,且混有流速异常值。为了进一步提高海洋内孤立波的提取精度与准确性,本文针对走航式ADCP海流数据特点引入IGG3方法的权函数因子,设计了一种抗差Vondrak滤波器,并与快速傅里叶变换、小波分析和滑动平均3种传统滤波方法进行对比,以验证抗差Vondrak滤波方法的有效性与优越性。研究结果表明,抗差Vondrak滤波方法不仅可以有效地滤除流速噪声,还可以自适应剔除海流观测数据中的异常值,由其提取出的内孤立波准确且各层水平流速清晰。因此,与传统滤波方法相比,抗差Vondrak滤波方法在内孤立波提取方面具有一定的优越性。 相似文献
20.
The pressure variations exerted on a vertical wall in a constant water depth are computed from the calculation of a short-crested wave system using the Fourier series approximation method. The numerical results have been compared with experimental results from literature. The comparison with the linear solution of the present theory gives a good estimate for the variation of dynamic pressures. The double peak formation in the experimental results for pressure curves at still water level and at the bottom for the steeper waves was not observed for the linear case. In the case of surface elevation, deviations with the third order perturbation results are observed for higher waves. In addition, deviations are also observed within the elevation results for higher waves. 相似文献