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1.
Morphodynamics of ebb-tidal deltas: a model approach 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
S. M. van Leeuwen M. van der Vegt H. E. de Swart 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2003,57(5-6):899-907
The results of 2DH numerical models of the Frisian Inlet (located in the Dutch Wadden Sea) are discussed to gain further knowledge about the physical mechanisms causing the presence of both ebb-tidal deltas and of channels and shoals in tide-dominated inlet systems. A hydrodynamic model, extended with sediment transport formulations, was used to verify earlier conceptual models that deal with ebb-tidal delta characteristics. The model does not confirm their hypothesis concerning the observed spatial asymmetry of ebb-tidal deltas and suggests that long-term morphological simulations are needed to understand this aspect. Furthermore, the model indicates that the initial formation of the ebb-tidal delta is mainly due to convergence of the tidally averaged sediment flux related to residual currents, whilst the net sediment transport in the basin is mainly caused by tidal asymmetry. A second model (accounting for feedbacks between tidal motion and the erodible bottom) was used to simulate the long-term bathymetric evolution of the Frisian Inlet under fair weather conditions. This model reproduces the gross characteristics of the observed morphology: the presence of a double-inlet system with two distinct ebb-tidal deltas having different sizes and the presence of channels and shoals. The role of the ‘Engelsmanplaat’, a consolidated shoal in the middle of the Frisian Inlet, was not found to be crucial for the morphodynamic stability of this inlet system. 相似文献
2.
Evidence for sediment recirculation on an ebb-tidal delta of the East Frisian barrier-island system, southern North Sea 总被引：2，自引：2，他引：0
The Otzum ebb-tidal delta, located between Langeoog and Spiekeroog islands along the East Frisian barrier-island coast, southern
North Sea, was investigated with respect to its morphological evolution, sediment distribution patterns and internal sedimentary
structures. Bathymetric charts reveal that, over the last 50 years, the size of the Otzum ebb-tidal delta has slightly shrunk,
while sediment has accreted on the ebb-delta lobe to the east of the main inlet channel (west of Spiekeroog). Swash bars superimposed
on the eastern ebb-tidal shoal (Robben Plate) have migrated south or south-eastwards, i.e. towards the inlet throat. The main
ebb-delta body is composed of fine quartz sand, whereas the superimposed swash bars and the inlet channel bed consist of medium-grained
quartz sand containing high proportions of coarser bioclastic material. Internal sedimentary structures in short box-cores
(up to 30 cm long) are dominated by flood-oriented cross-beds. Longer vibro-cores (up to 1.5 m long) show that, at depth,
the sediment is dominated by storm-generated parallel (upper plane bed) laminations with intercalated shell layers and dune
cross-bedding. The cross-bedded sands in both box-cores and vibro-cores from the ebb-delta shoal predominantly dip towards
the south or southeast, indicating transport towards the inlet throat by the flood current. The observations demonstrate that,
contrary to previous contentions, the sediments of the highly mobile swash bars do not bypass the inlet but are instead being
continually recirculated by the combined action of tidal currents and waves. In this model, the cycle begins with both fine
and medium sands, including shell hash, being transported seawards in the main ebb channel until they reach the shallow ebb-delta
front. From here, the sediment is pushed onto the eastern ebb-delta shoal by the flood current assisted by waves, becoming
strongly size-sorted in the process. The medium sands together with the shell hash are formed into swash bars which migrate
along arcuate paths over a base of fine sand back to the main ebb channel located south of the ebb delta. By the same token,
the fine sand between the swash bars is transported south-eastwards by the flood current in the form of small dunes until
it cascades into the large flood channel located to the west of Spiekeroog. From here, the fine sand is fed back into the
main ebb channel, thus completing the cycle. No evidence was found on the ebb delta for alongshore sediment bypassing. 相似文献
3.
A new numerical model was developed to simulate regional sediment transport and shoreline response in the vicinity of tidal inlets based on the one-line theory combined with the reservoir analogy approach for volumetric evolution of inlet shoals. Sand bypassing onshore and sheltering effects on wave action from the inlet bar and shoals were taken into account. The model was applied to unique field data from the south coast of Long Island, United States, including inlet opening and closure. The simulation area extended from Montauk Point to Fire Island Inlet, including Shinnecock and Moriches Inlets. A 20-year long time series of hindcast wave data at three stations along the coast were used as input data to the model. The capacity of the inlet shoals and bars to store sand was estimated based on measured cross-sectional areas of the inlets as well as on comprehensive bathymetric surveys of the areas around the inlet. Several types of sediment sources and sinks were represented, including beach fills, groin systems, jetty blocking, inlet bypassing, and flood shoal and ebb shoal feeding. The model simulations were validated against annual net longshore transport rates reported in the literature, measured shorelines, and recorded sediment volumes in the flood and ebb shoal complexes. Overall, the model simulations were in good agreement with the measured data. 相似文献
4.
The generation of tidal asymmetries is clarified via numerical integration of the one-dimensional equations for channel geometries characteristic of shallow estuaries. Channels without tidal flats develop a time asymmetry characterized by a longer falling than rising tide. This behavior is enhanced by strong friction and large channel cross-sectional area variability over a tidal cycle. Resulting tidal currents have a shorter, intense flood and a longer, weak ebb (flood-dominant). Addition of tidal flats to the channels can produce a longer rising tide and stronger ebb currents (ebb-dominant), if the area of tidal flats is large enough to overcome the effects of time-variable channel geometry. Weaker friction with flats can also produce this asymmetry.Despite the physical complexity of these systems, essential features of estuarine tidal response can be recovered from one-dimensional models. Shallow estuaries are shown to have a system response leading to stable, uniform senses of tidal asymmetry (either flood- or ebb-dominated, due to phase-locking of forced tidal constituents), with down-channel development in magnitude of asymmetry. These concepts are illustrated by modeling idealized representations of tidal channels at Nauset Inlet, MA, and Wachapreague Inlet, VA, which have flood- and ebb-dominance, respectively. 相似文献
5.
A study of the East Frisian Islands has shown that the plan form of these islands can be explained by processes of inlet sediment bypassing. This island chain is located on a high wave energy, high tide range shoreline where the average deep-water significant wave height exceeds 1.0 m and the spring tidal range varies from 2.7 m at Juist to 2.9 m at Wangerooge. An abundant sediment supply and a strong eastward component of wave power (4.4 × 103 W m−1) have caused a persistent eastward growth of the barrier islands. The eastward extension of the barriers has been accommodated more by inlet narrowing, than by inlet migration.
It is estimated from morphological evidence that a minimum of 2.7 × 105 m3 of sand is delivered to the inlets each year via the easterly longshore transport system. Much of this sand ultimately bypasses the inlets in the form of large, migrating swash bars. The location where the swash bars attach to the beach is controlled by the amount of overlap of the ebb-tidal delta along the downdrift inlet shoreline. The configuration of the ebbtidal delta, in turn, is a function of inlet size and position of the main ebb channel. The swash bar welding process has caused preferential beach nourishment and historical shoreline progradation. Along the East Frisian Islands this process has produced barrier islands with humpbacked, bulbous updrift and bulbous downdrift shapes. The model of barrier island development presented in this paper not only explains well the configuration of the German barriers but also the morphology of barriers along many other mixed energy coasts. 相似文献
6.
《Marine Geology》2006,225(1-4):23-44
The morphodynamics of inlets and ebb-tidal deltas reflect the interaction between wave and tidal current-driven sediment transport and significantly influence the behaviour of adjacent shorelines. Studies of inlet morphodynamics have tended to focus on sand-dominated coastlines and reference to gravel-dominated or ‘gravel-rich’ inlets is rare. This work characterises and conceptualises the morphodynamics of a meso-tidal sand–gravel inlet at the mouth of the Deben estuary, southeast England. Behaviour of the inlet and ebb-tidal delta over the last 200 yr is analysed with respect to planform configuration and bathymetry. The estuary inlet is historically dynamic, with ebb-tidal shoals exhibiting broadly cyclic behaviour on a 10 to 30 yr timescale. Quantification of inlet parameters for the most recent cycle (1981–2003) indicate an average ebb delta volume of 1 × 106 m3 and inlet cross-sectional area of 775 m2. Bypassing volumes provide a direct indicator of annual longshore sediment transport rate over this most recent cycle of 30–40 × 103 m3 yr− 1. Short-term increases in total ebb-tidal delta volume are linked to annual variability in the north to northeasterly wind climate. The sediment bypassing mechanism operating in the Deben inlet is comparable to the ‘ebb delta breaching’ model of FitzGerald [FitzGerald, D.M., 1988. Shoreline erosional–depositional processes associated with tidal inlets, in: Aubrey, D.G., Weishar, L. (Ed.), Hydrodynamics and Sediment Dynamics of Tidal Inlets. Springer-Verlag Inc., New York, pp. 186–225.], although the scales and rates of change exhibited are notably different to sand-dominated systems. A systematic review of empirical models of sand-dominated inlet and ebb-tidal delta morphodynamics (e.g. those of [O'Brien, M.P., 1931. Estuary tidal prisms related to entrance areas. Civil Engineering, 1, 738–739.; Walton, T.L., and Adams, W.D., 1976. Capacity of inlet outer bars to store sand. Proceedings of 15th Coastal Engineering Conference, 1919–1937.; Gaudiano, D.J., Kana, T.W., 2001. Shoal bypassing in mixed energy inlets: geomorphic variables and empirical predictions for nine South Carolina inlets. J. Coast. Res., 17, (2), 280–291.]) shows the Deben system to be significantly smaller yet characterised by a longer bypassing cycle than would be expected for its tidal prism. This is attributed to its coarse-grained sedimentology and the lower efficiency of sediment transporting processes. 相似文献
7.
In terms of grain size, surficial sediment distribution patterns in back-barrier tidal basins (e.g., the East Frisian Wadden Sea, Germany) often show a landward fining trend from the sea boundary to the mainland shore. In addition to the cross-shore patterns, there are lateral grain-size trends toward the watersheds of the basins and toward the watersheds of tidal flats bordered by tidal channels on either side. In the present study, interrelationships between morphological evolution and grain-size trends in the back-barrier tidal basins of the East Frisian Wadden Sea were simulated for a period of 60 years by a process-based forward modeling approach using the Delft3D system. The model outputs show that grain size displays a shoreward fining trend within the basin area, which is consistent with in situ observations; such a trend can be interpreted by the shoreward decrease in the cross-shore maximum velocity. Moreover, the model predicts lateral grain-size trends similar to those observed in the tidal basins: coarser sediment remains in the inlets and channels, while finer sediment settles at the tidal watersheds and on the tidal flats between channels. The spatial patterns of tidal flat sediment grain size within the tidal basins are thus related to the distance from the sea boundary and from the tidal channels. The modeling exercise also indicates that the development of the grain-size pattern observed in the East Frisian Wadden Sea is accomplished within a few decades, and that the time periods required to reach equilibrium are much shorter for grain size than for bed elevation. Evidently, spatial grain-size information can be used to assess sediment transport and morphological adaptation processes as, for example, attempted in sediment trend analysis procedures. 相似文献
8.
象山港潮滩坡度对潮动力影响的数值研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
象山港属于狭长型半封闭港湾，湾内分布有大面积潮滩。多年以来象山港内实施了大量海岸工程及养殖工程，湾内潮滩坡度发生了显著变化。基于非结构网格和有限体积数值模式（FVCOM）建立象山港三维潮动力模型，研究湾内不同区域潮滩坡度变化对象山港潮动力过程的影响机理。结果表明：潮滩坡度下降将增大湾内纳潮量，进而增大M2分潮振幅和迟角，反之则反。铁港潮滩坡度的减小（增大），将改变底部耗散项，进而增大（减小）M4分潮振幅。由于M2和M4分潮的振幅在湾顶较大，所以湾顶（铁港）潮滩坡度对象山港潮动力过程的影响明显大于侧岸（西沪港）。西沪港潮滩坡度对象山港潮动力过程的影响是局部的。铁港、西沪港潮滩坡度对湾内潮汐不对称、余流及潮能影响显著。铁港潮滩坡度的改变均会减弱湾内落潮占优程度。西沪港区域潮滩坡度的减小将减弱湾内落潮占优趋势，反之则反。铁港和西沪港潮滩坡度的减小，将增大余流大小及潮能密度，进而潮能耗散增大，反之则反。研究结果对河口海岸潮滩区域的工程建设及生态修复有重要参考价值。 相似文献
9.
Three sediment transport studies using tracers were performed at Ancão Inlet (southern Portugal). The objectives of the experiments were to understand the sediment transport pathways and to determine their magnitudes on the updrift margin of an inlet. In order to apply the traditionally used Space Integration Methodology to the tracer experiments, adaptations were required. The study area was divided into four morphologically defined sectors and this was found to be a key factor for the applicability of tracers in a complex area. The four sectors are as follows: sector A is the straight part of the updrift beach; sector B is the upper area of the swash platform; sector C is the lower area of the swash platform; and sector D represents the inner parts of the inlet margin. The integrated analysis of all collected data (forcing mechanisms, tracer distribution and topographic evolution) led to the determination of the sediment pathways. A semi-quantitative conceptual model was developed in order to explain the sediment transport pathways and magnitudes that a known mass of sediment would follow after arriving at the swash platform. It was found that the areas with the largest sediment accumulation were sectors B and C, while almost no sediment was retained in sector D, which experienced significant erosion. According to the model, 53% of the initial mass of sediments remain in the system after two tidal cycles. It is hypothesised that sediment losses are caused by sediment transport towards the ebb delta and by sediment bypassing occurring from the ebb delta to the downdrift beach through swash bar processes. The herein defined conceptual model represents a useful tool that could be applied to other tidal inlets under similar conditions, facilitating sediment budget studies around tidal inlets. 相似文献
10.
To relate the textural characteristics of the bottom sediments of a tidal inlet to hydrodynamics, 45 sediment samples from the Tauranga Entrance to Tauranga Harbour were analysed for textural parameters, and tidal currents and waves were monitored. Tidal currents dominate sediment transport processes near the Tauranga Entrance although swell waves are significant on the ebb tidal delta, and wind waves may influence intertidal sediments within the harbour. The bulk of the sediment is probably derived from marine sand from the Bay of Plenty continental shelf, but tidal currents and waves have changed its textural character. In areas of swift tidal currents, particularly in the inlet channel itself, sediment is coarser, more poorly sorted, and more coarsely skewed than that in areas of slower currents. 相似文献
11.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(2):159-175
The Frisian Inlet is one of the tidal basins of the Dutch Wadden Sea. In 1969, its basin area was reduced by 30%. As documented by bathymetric surveys, this has led to an import of sediment of 30×106 m3 over the first 18 years. The study presented in this paper seeks to establish the mechanisms responsible for the passage of the sediment through the throat cross-section of the inlet channel. Emphasis is on a 14-day period of relative calm when sediment transport can be attributed solely to tidal currents. Use is made of continuous measurements of velocity, sand and silt concentration. The measurement station was located on one side of the throat cross-section in a water depth of approximately 6 m. For both the sand and silt fraction of the sediment, suspended load transport is the dominant transport mode. It is shown that for sand, concentration variations and net transport are determined by the local (in the throat section) velocity. Especially the residual velocity and tidal velocity asymmetry play an important role in the net sand flux. For silt, except for transport associated with locally generated vertical mixing, the net transport is largely determined by sedimentation–erosion processes in the basin and the silt concentration in the North Sea. Comparison with measurements in a station located in the middle of the throat section shows considerable difference in residual velocity and tidal velocity asymmetry. As a result, the sediment fluxes also differ. Accurately determining the net sediment flux in the throat section would require a dense net of measurement stations. 相似文献
12.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,42(2):115-142
The Arcachon Lagoon on the French Atlantic coast is a triangular shaped lagoon of 20 km on a side connected to the ocean by a 3-km wide inlet between the mainland and an elongated sand spit. This tidal inlet exhibits a particularly active morphology due to locally strong tidal currents and rough wave conditions. During the past 300 years, minimum and maximum spatial extents of the Cap Ferret sand spit have varied by 8 km while one or two channels have alternately allowed circulation between the lagoon and the ocean. These impressive morphological changes have never prevented regular flushing of the lagoon, eventhough the spit came as close as 300 m from the coast during the 18th century. According to Bruun's concept of tidal inlet stability [Theory and Engineering (1978), 510 pp.], the balance between longshore littoral transport and the tidal prism ensures the perpetuity of the inlet.Process modeling was believed to give better insight into the respective roles of tides and waves in driving the long-term morphological changes of the inlet. A two-dimensional horizontal morphodynamic model was therefore developed, combining modules for hydrodynamics, waves, sediment transport and bathymetry updates. The use of process models at a scale of decades requires a schematization of the input conditions. We defined representative mean annual wave and tide conditions with respect to sediment transport, i.e. conditions that induce the same annual transport as measured in the field. Driven by these representative conditions, simulations run from the 1993 bathymetry show that the tide is responsible for the opening of a new channel at the extremity of the sand spit (where tidal currents are the strongest), while waves induce a littoral transport responsible for the longshore drift of sand bodies across the inlet. One particular simulation consisted in running the model from a hypothetical initial topography where the channels are filled with sand and the entire inlet is set to a constant depth (3 m). The results show the reproduction of a channel and bar system comparable to historical observations, which supports the idea that the lagoon is unlikely to be disconnected from the ocean, provided tide and wave conditions remain fairly constant in the following decades. 相似文献
13.
Process-based modeling of morphodynamics of a tidal inlet system 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The morphodynamic evolution of an idealized inlet system is investigated using a 2-D depthaveraged process-based model,incorporating the hydrodynamic equations,Englund-Hansen’s sediment transport formula and the mass conservation equation.The model has a fixed geometry,impermeable boundaries and uniform sediment grain size,and driven by shore-parallel tidal elevations.The results show that the model reproduces major elements of the inlet system,i.e.,flood and ebb tidal deltas,inlet channel.Equilibrium is reached after several years when the residual transport gradually decreases and eventually diminishes.At equilibrium,the flow field characteristics and morphological patterns agree with the schematized models proposed by O’Brien (1969) and Hayes (1980).The modeled minimum cross-sectional entrance area of the tidal inlet system is comparable with that calculated with the statistical P-A relationship for tidal inlets along the East China Sea coast.The morphological evolution of the inlet system is controlled by a negative feedback between hydrodynamics,sediment transport and bathymetric changes.The evolution rates decrease exponentially with time,i.e.,the system develops rapidly at an early stage while it slows down at later stages.Temporal changes in hydrodynamics occur in the system;for example,the flood velocity decreases while its duration increases,which weakens the flood domination patterns.The formation of the multi-channel system in the tidal basin can be divided into two stages;at the first stage the flood delta is formed and the water depth is reduced,and at the second stage the flood is dissected by a number of tidal channels in which the water depth increases in response to tidal scour. 相似文献
14.
Tidal inlets along the mesotidal coast of Maine contrast with those from other parts of the world by being dominated by flood-tidal currents. Analysis of the factors responsible for flood or ebb dominance indicates factors external to the backbarrier environment. We suggest that the flood dominance is caused by both a steepening of the tidal wave in the Gulf of Maine and the shallow depth of the ebb-tidal delta and spit platform. Flood currents are typically 10–20 cm/sec stronger than the ebb at the inlet throat. The flood dominance results in a significant net landward transport of sediment into the backbarrier. 相似文献
15.
本文以粤西水东湾表层沉积物样品的粒度分布为基本数据,使用对应分析方法并结合地形与波流特征,分析了海湾动力沉积环境。分析结果表明,海湾现代沉积环境可划分为4个动力沉积区。 相似文献
16.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(5-6):505-529
Texel inlet, the largest inlet in the Dutch Wadden Sea, has undergone drastic changes in the morphology of basin, ebb-tidal delta and adjacent coastlines after closure of a major part of its back-barrier basin. Despite intensive monitoring and analysis, present observation-based conceptual models lack the subtle physics necessary to explain the sand exchange between inlet, ebb-tidal delta and adjacent coastlines.Fundamental understanding of the inlet dynamics and evolution is obtained by integrating field and model data analysis. The state-of-the-art process-based model Delft3D Online Morphology has been used to generate synoptic data of high spatial and temporal resolution over the inlet domain. It is shown that the Delft3D Online Morphology model is capable of the quasi real-time simulation of the dominant flow and transport patterns over a 3-month period on the scale of the inlet. The high-resolution numerical model results prove to be a valuable tool in identifying the main transport patterns and mechanisms in the inlet domain. Qualitative transport patterns in Texel Inlet and its associated ebb-tidal delta are derived by integration of the observations and model results.The present ebb-tidal delta developments are best described as a second-stage self-organizing phase of redistribution and recirculation of sediments to obtain a natural dynamic equilibrium state, adapted to the changed configuration of the main-ebb channels. Sand is transported from the abandoned ebb-delta front (western margin of Noorderhaaks) and along the adjacent coastlines into the basin where it partly settles. Ebb-tidal currents redistribute sand back from the basin mainly onto the southern ebb-tidal delta shoals. Large gross transport rates, but small morphological changes, point to sediment recirculation. Sediment import into the basin results from net flood dominated transport due to tidal asymmetry, landward directed wind- and wave-driven flow, and larger flood transport capacities due to wave effects (e.g. enhanced bed shear stresses and stirring of sediment) that exceed the net ebb-dominated tidal residual transports. 相似文献
17.
Stratigraphic models for microtidal tidal deltas; examples from the Florida Gulf coast 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Richard A. Davis Jr. C. Kelly Cuffe Katherine A. Kowalski Eric J. Shock 《Marine Geology》2003,200(1-4):49-60
Extensive vibracoring of both flood- and ebb-tidal deltas along the central Gulf Coast of the Florida peninsula reveals a strong overall similarity with subtle distinctions between flood and ebb varieties. Although the coast in question is microtidal, the inlets range from tide-dominated to distinctly wave-dominated. Both types of tidal deltas overlie a muddy sand interpreted to have been deposited in a back-barrier environment. The sharp contact at the base of the tidal delta sequence is typically overlain by a thin shell gravel layer. The ebb-tidal delta sequence is characterized by fine quartz sand with shell gravel in various concentrations; coarse and massive at the margins of the main ebb channel, and finer and imbricated at the marginal flood channels. The flood-tidal deltas are characterized by the same facies but with a small amount of mud. Shelly facies on the channels on flood deltas are not as well developed as on the ebb deltas. The combination of the stratigraphic sequence and the lithofacies make tidal deltas readily identifiable in the ancient record. The differences between flood and ebb varieties are subtle but consistent. 相似文献
18.
Tidal inlets along the mesotidal coast of Maine contrast with those from other parts of the world by being dominated by flood-tidal
currents. Analysis of the factors responsible for flood or ebb dominance indicates factors external to the backbarrier environment.
We suggest that the flood dominance is caused by both a steepening of the tidal wave in the Gulf of Maine and the shallow
depth of the ebb-tidal delta and spit platform. Flood currents are typically 10–20 cm/sec stronger than the ebb at the inlet
throat. The flood dominance results in a significant net landward transport of sediment into the backbarrier. 相似文献
19.
曹妃甸老龙沟动力地貌体系及演化 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
老龙沟为典型沙坝-泻湖型潮汐汊道,潮汐汊道地貌结构完整.老龙沟口门处潮流动力最强,发育-20m的深槽.口门内涨潮流三角洲上发育完整的多级水道体系.口门外落潮三角洲止于-11 m水深处.以突起的末端坝为地形标志,落潮主水道偏于落潮三角洲东侧发育,落潮三角洲西侧发育宽缓冲流平台.落潮主水道以落潮流为优势,冲流平台上潮流动力... 相似文献