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1.
Tidal inlets along the mesotidal coast of Maine contrast with those from other parts of the world by being dominated by flood-tidal currents. Analysis of the factors responsible for flood or ebb dominance indicates factors external to the backbarrier environment. We suggest that the flood dominance is caused by both a steepening of the tidal wave in the Gulf of Maine and the shallow depth of the ebb-tidal delta and spit platform. Flood currents are typically 10–20 cm/sec stronger than the ebb at the inlet throat. The flood dominance results in a significant net landward transport of sediment into the backbarrier. 相似文献
2.
Evidence for sediment recirculation on an ebb-tidal delta of the East Frisian barrier-island system, southern North Sea 总被引：2，自引：2，他引：0
The Otzum ebb-tidal delta, located between Langeoog and Spiekeroog islands along the East Frisian barrier-island coast, southern
North Sea, was investigated with respect to its morphological evolution, sediment distribution patterns and internal sedimentary
structures. Bathymetric charts reveal that, over the last 50 years, the size of the Otzum ebb-tidal delta has slightly shrunk,
while sediment has accreted on the ebb-delta lobe to the east of the main inlet channel (west of Spiekeroog). Swash bars superimposed
on the eastern ebb-tidal shoal (Robben Plate) have migrated south or south-eastwards, i.e. towards the inlet throat. The main
ebb-delta body is composed of fine quartz sand, whereas the superimposed swash bars and the inlet channel bed consist of medium-grained
quartz sand containing high proportions of coarser bioclastic material. Internal sedimentary structures in short box-cores
(up to 30 cm long) are dominated by flood-oriented cross-beds. Longer vibro-cores (up to 1.5 m long) show that, at depth,
the sediment is dominated by storm-generated parallel (upper plane bed) laminations with intercalated shell layers and dune
cross-bedding. The cross-bedded sands in both box-cores and vibro-cores from the ebb-delta shoal predominantly dip towards
the south or southeast, indicating transport towards the inlet throat by the flood current. The observations demonstrate that,
contrary to previous contentions, the sediments of the highly mobile swash bars do not bypass the inlet but are instead being
continually recirculated by the combined action of tidal currents and waves. In this model, the cycle begins with both fine
and medium sands, including shell hash, being transported seawards in the main ebb channel until they reach the shallow ebb-delta
front. From here, the sediment is pushed onto the eastern ebb-delta shoal by the flood current assisted by waves, becoming
strongly size-sorted in the process. The medium sands together with the shell hash are formed into swash bars which migrate
along arcuate paths over a base of fine sand back to the main ebb channel located south of the ebb delta. By the same token,
the fine sand between the swash bars is transported south-eastwards by the flood current in the form of small dunes until
it cascades into the large flood channel located to the west of Spiekeroog. From here, the fine sand is fed back into the
main ebb channel, thus completing the cycle. No evidence was found on the ebb delta for alongshore sediment bypassing. 相似文献
3.
Tidal inlets along the mesotidal coast of Maine contrast with those from other parts of the world by being dominated by flood-tidal
currents. Analysis of the factors responsible for flood or ebb dominance indicates factors external to the backbarrier environment.
We suggest that the flood dominance is caused by both a steepening of the tidal wave in the Gulf of Maine and the shallow
depth of the ebb-tidal delta and spit platform. Flood currents are typically 10–20 cm/sec stronger than the ebb at the inlet
throat. The flood dominance results in a significant net landward transport of sediment into the backbarrier. 相似文献
4.
江苏如东西太阳沙及烂沙洋海域潮流泥沙数值模拟 总被引：10，自引：0，他引：10
基于不规则三角形网格有限差分法并考虑波浪及其破碎作用,建立了平面二维潮流场和泥沙场数学模型.该模型对有望建设成深水码头和深水航道的江苏如东西太阳沙和烂沙洋海域的潮流场和泥沙场进行了细化数值模拟.数值模拟结果表明：（1）本海区潮流基本上是顺深槽流动的往复流,潮流流速大,烂沙洋北水道和西太阳沙附近大潮涨落潮最大流速分别在2 m/s和1 m/s以上;（2）本海区的潮平均水体含沙量在0.5 kg/m^3以下,落潮含沙量大于涨潮含沙量;（3）小浪对水体含沙量影响很小,大浪作用下水体含沙量明显增加. 相似文献
5.
《Marine Geology》2006,225(1-4):23-44
The morphodynamics of inlets and ebb-tidal deltas reflect the interaction between wave and tidal current-driven sediment transport and significantly influence the behaviour of adjacent shorelines. Studies of inlet morphodynamics have tended to focus on sand-dominated coastlines and reference to gravel-dominated or ‘gravel-rich’ inlets is rare. This work characterises and conceptualises the morphodynamics of a meso-tidal sand–gravel inlet at the mouth of the Deben estuary, southeast England. Behaviour of the inlet and ebb-tidal delta over the last 200 yr is analysed with respect to planform configuration and bathymetry. The estuary inlet is historically dynamic, with ebb-tidal shoals exhibiting broadly cyclic behaviour on a 10 to 30 yr timescale. Quantification of inlet parameters for the most recent cycle (1981–2003) indicate an average ebb delta volume of 1 × 106 m3 and inlet cross-sectional area of 775 m2. Bypassing volumes provide a direct indicator of annual longshore sediment transport rate over this most recent cycle of 30–40 × 103 m3 yr− 1. Short-term increases in total ebb-tidal delta volume are linked to annual variability in the north to northeasterly wind climate. The sediment bypassing mechanism operating in the Deben inlet is comparable to the ‘ebb delta breaching’ model of FitzGerald [FitzGerald, D.M., 1988. Shoreline erosional–depositional processes associated with tidal inlets, in: Aubrey, D.G., Weishar, L. (Ed.), Hydrodynamics and Sediment Dynamics of Tidal Inlets. Springer-Verlag Inc., New York, pp. 186–225.], although the scales and rates of change exhibited are notably different to sand-dominated systems. A systematic review of empirical models of sand-dominated inlet and ebb-tidal delta morphodynamics (e.g. those of [O'Brien, M.P., 1931. Estuary tidal prisms related to entrance areas. Civil Engineering, 1, 738–739.; Walton, T.L., and Adams, W.D., 1976. Capacity of inlet outer bars to store sand. Proceedings of 15th Coastal Engineering Conference, 1919–1937.; Gaudiano, D.J., Kana, T.W., 2001. Shoal bypassing in mixed energy inlets: geomorphic variables and empirical predictions for nine South Carolina inlets. J. Coast. Res., 17, (2), 280–291.]) shows the Deben system to be significantly smaller yet characterised by a longer bypassing cycle than would be expected for its tidal prism. This is attributed to its coarse-grained sedimentology and the lower efficiency of sediment transporting processes. 相似文献
6.
A mathematical model of spit growth and barrier elongation adjacent to an inlet (of arbitrary width), supplied by sediment coming from longshore sediment transport, was developed based on the spit growth model proposed by Kraus (1999). The fundamental governing equation is the conservation equation for sand, where the width of the spit is assumed constant during growth. The portion of the longshore sediment transport feeding the spit has been estimated based on the ratio between the depth of the inlet channel and the depth of active longshore transport. Sediment transport from the channel due to the inlet flow, as well as other sinks of sand (e.g., dredging), are taken into account. Measured data on spit elongation at Fire Island Inlet, United States, and at Badreveln Spit, Sweden, were used to validate the model. The simulated results agree well with the measured data at both study sites, where spit growth at Fire Island was restricted by the inlet flow and the growth at Badreveln Spit was unrestricted. The model calculation for Fire Island Inlet indicates that the dredging to maintain channel navigation is the major reason for the stable period observed from 1954 to 1994 at the Fire Island barrier. The average annual net longshore transport rate at the eastern side of the Fire Island inlet obtained in this study was about 220,000 m3/yr, of which approximately 165,000 m3/yr (75% of the net longshore transport) is deposited in the inlet feeding the spit growth, whereas the remaining portion (25%) is bypassed downdrift through the ebb shoal complex. 相似文献
7.
Widely applied in maintaining estuarial waterway depth, the spur dike has played an important role in currents and sediment exchange between channel and shoal and sediment back-silting in the channel. Through establishing a generalized physical model at a bifurcated estuary and conducting current tests under the joint action of runoff and tide, the influence of the spur dike length on current exchange between channel and shoal is analyzed. Results show that when the spur dike length reaches a certain value, the direction of the flow velocity shear front between the channel and shoal will change. The longer the spur dike, the larger the transverse fluctuating velocity at the peak of flood in the channel shoal exchange area, while the transport of the transverse hydrodynamics is obvious in the process of flood. There is an optimum length of spur dike when the shear stress in the channel and the longitudinal velocity in flood and ebb reach the maximum, and the flow velocity will decrease when the spur dike length is smaller or larger than the optimum. For a certain length of spur dike, the larger the channel shoal elevation difference, the larger the peak longitudinal flow velocity in the middle of the navigation channel in flood and ebb. However, the transverse flow velocity will first decrease and then increase. The transverse transportation is obvious when the channel shoal elevation difference increases. 相似文献
8.
Three sediment transport studies using tracers were performed at Ancão Inlet (southern Portugal). The objectives of the experiments were to understand the sediment transport pathways and to determine their magnitudes on the updrift margin of an inlet. In order to apply the traditionally used Space Integration Methodology to the tracer experiments, adaptations were required. The study area was divided into four morphologically defined sectors and this was found to be a key factor for the applicability of tracers in a complex area. The four sectors are as follows: sector A is the straight part of the updrift beach; sector B is the upper area of the swash platform; sector C is the lower area of the swash platform; and sector D represents the inner parts of the inlet margin. The integrated analysis of all collected data (forcing mechanisms, tracer distribution and topographic evolution) led to the determination of the sediment pathways. A semi-quantitative conceptual model was developed in order to explain the sediment transport pathways and magnitudes that a known mass of sediment would follow after arriving at the swash platform. It was found that the areas with the largest sediment accumulation were sectors B and C, while almost no sediment was retained in sector D, which experienced significant erosion. According to the model, 53% of the initial mass of sediments remain in the system after two tidal cycles. It is hypothesised that sediment losses are caused by sediment transport towards the ebb delta and by sediment bypassing occurring from the ebb delta to the downdrift beach through swash bar processes. The herein defined conceptual model represents a useful tool that could be applied to other tidal inlets under similar conditions, facilitating sediment budget studies around tidal inlets. 相似文献
9.
Process-based modeling of morphodynamics of a tidal inlet system 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The morphodynamic evolution of an idealized inlet system is investigated using a 2-D depthaveraged process-based model,incorporating the hydrodynamic equations,Englund-Hansen’s sediment transport formula and the mass conservation equation.The model has a fixed geometry,impermeable boundaries and uniform sediment grain size,and driven by shore-parallel tidal elevations.The results show that the model reproduces major elements of the inlet system,i.e.,flood and ebb tidal deltas,inlet channel.Equilibrium is reached after several years when the residual transport gradually decreases and eventually diminishes.At equilibrium,the flow field characteristics and morphological patterns agree with the schematized models proposed by O’Brien (1969) and Hayes (1980).The modeled minimum cross-sectional entrance area of the tidal inlet system is comparable with that calculated with the statistical P-A relationship for tidal inlets along the East China Sea coast.The morphological evolution of the inlet system is controlled by a negative feedback between hydrodynamics,sediment transport and bathymetric changes.The evolution rates decrease exponentially with time,i.e.,the system develops rapidly at an early stage while it slows down at later stages.Temporal changes in hydrodynamics occur in the system;for example,the flood velocity decreases while its duration increases,which weakens the flood domination patterns.The formation of the multi-channel system in the tidal basin can be divided into two stages;at the first stage the flood delta is formed and the water depth is reduced,and at the second stage the flood is dissected by a number of tidal channels in which the water depth increases in response to tidal scour. 相似文献
10.
海南岛洋浦港潮汐汊道口门的均衡过水面积 总被引：5，自引：1，他引：5
将汊道均衡与潮汐特征，纳潮量，淡水径流量及沉积物搬运格局相联系，确定了洋浦港的均衡条件，根据纳潮盆地的水面面积－水面高程曲线以及相关的特征潮位估算平均纳潮量，利用１９７７－１９７９年波浪观测资料和ＣＥＲＣ公式计算沿岸输沙率；此外，还用改进的Ｇａｄｄ公式确定口门涨、落潮流输沙率，计算中引入汊道口门流速频率分布函数的定义。由此而得洋浦港均衡过水面积为５８００ｍ＾２，与Ｏ＇Ｂｒｉｅｎ方法所得结果相比，本 相似文献
11.
A study of the East Frisian Islands has shown that the plan form of these islands can be explained by processes of inlet sediment bypassing. This island chain is located on a high wave energy, high tide range shoreline where the average deep-water significant wave height exceeds 1.0 m and the spring tidal range varies from 2.7 m at Juist to 2.9 m at Wangerooge. An abundant sediment supply and a strong eastward component of wave power (4.4 × 103 W m−1) have caused a persistent eastward growth of the barrier islands. The eastward extension of the barriers has been accommodated more by inlet narrowing, than by inlet migration.
It is estimated from morphological evidence that a minimum of 2.7 × 105 m3 of sand is delivered to the inlets each year via the easterly longshore transport system. Much of this sand ultimately bypasses the inlets in the form of large, migrating swash bars. The location where the swash bars attach to the beach is controlled by the amount of overlap of the ebb-tidal delta along the downdrift inlet shoreline. The configuration of the ebbtidal delta, in turn, is a function of inlet size and position of the main ebb channel. The swash bar welding process has caused preferential beach nourishment and historical shoreline progradation. Along the East Frisian Islands this process has produced barrier islands with humpbacked, bulbous updrift and bulbous downdrift shapes. The model of barrier island development presented in this paper not only explains well the configuration of the German barriers but also the morphology of barriers along many other mixed energy coasts. 相似文献
12.
低频长波对港湾共振、泥沙输运、波浪爬高与越浪等过程有重要影响。采用非静压模型SWASH模拟了不规则波在浅滩上的传播及破碎过程,重点探讨了滩顶短波破碎程度对低频波能演变的影响。模拟结果显示,当滩顶短波处于临界破碎状态时,低频波能流沿浅滩持续增长,浅滩对低频长波的放大效应（滩后与滩前低频波能流之比）显著;当滩顶短波轻微破碎、破波仅发生在外破波区时,低频波能流的沿滩增长率进一步变大;当滩顶短波剧烈破碎、破波延续到内破波区时,低频波能流沿滩先增长而后转为衰减,滩后放大率较临界破碎时明显减小。研究结果表明,浅滩顶部水深改变了短波破碎程度,进而影响低频长波的演化过程,浅滩上长波总体增长率随滩顶水深的减小呈现先增大后减小的规律,在短波轻微破碎时最大。 相似文献
13.
Li Jiufa 《海洋学报(英文版)》1991,10(1):117-127
The Nanhui tidal flat is located in the area of slow current where the ebb currents from the Changjiang Estuaryand the Hangzhou Bay converge and the flood current from the sea diverges into the estuary and the bay. The flat extends seaward in tongue shape and has a wide and gentle surface with a marked difference of tidal levels on its two sides, which results in the sediment longitudinal transport on the flat. The water-sediment conditions are diverse at different locations. The velocity and sediment concentration in intertidal zone are higher during the flood tide than those during the ebb tide. The net sediment transport is landward, resulting in a large amount of deposition of sediments on the shoal. However, the ebb current is the dominant one in deep-water area where the net sediment transport is seaward. There exist two circulation systems in plane view on the shoal and in its adjacent deep-water area, which results in the sediment exchanges between the flat and channel and between the estuary an 相似文献
14.
曹妃甸老龙沟动力地貌体系及演化 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
老龙沟为典型沙坝-泻湖型潮汐汊道,潮汐汊道地貌结构完整.老龙沟口门处潮流动力最强,发育-20m的深槽.口门内涨潮流三角洲上发育完整的多级水道体系.口门外落潮三角洲止于-11 m水深处.以突起的末端坝为地形标志,落潮主水道偏于落潮三角洲东侧发育,落潮三角洲西侧发育宽缓冲流平台.落潮主水道以落潮流为优势,冲流平台上潮流动力... 相似文献
15.
16.
基于平面二维水沙床耦合地貌模型,反演了1958年1月至1964年12月连续枯水年期间钱塘江尖山河段的主槽摆动过程,揭示了河势由顺直到弯曲的主要演变规律和内在机制.结果表明,在低径流和强潮流作用下,丰水年形成的北部落潮槽逐渐淤积形成浅滩,南部涨潮槽冲刷发展形成南、北两支,两槽间江心滩发育壮大,形成弯曲河势.河床冲淤主要集中在前两年内,潮汐周期内涨潮初期冲刷、涨憩和落潮初期淤积,区域淤积泥沙主要来源于下游杭州湾,北槽前期淤积为落潮型淤积,后期为涨潮型淤积.河势变化使得区域潮差增大潮动力增强,南槽涨落潮流速显著增大.顺直河势下,江心滩南北两侧分流比差异不大,涨潮期间南侧略高、落潮期间北槽略高.弯曲河势下,南槽水深和纳潮量增加,涨、落潮分流比均显著增大至75％以上. 相似文献
17.
山东庙岛海峡的峡道动力地貌 总被引：7，自引：0，他引：7
在庙岛海峡的动力、沉积、地貌条件比较系统的分析基础上,对庙岛海峡的峡道效应和动力地貌进行了研究,主要包括峡道形成及演变、潮流聚散与侵蚀堆积、涨落潮流歧路与登州浅滩形成、峡道泥沙搬运与沉积效应,结果表明,庙岛海峡具有显著的峡道效应,且峡道东西两段差异明显,对峡道以东的山东半岛北部沿岸海底泥沙运动和沉积具有重要影响。 相似文献
18.
清澜潮汐汊道为海南岛东部一个典型的泻湖-潮汐汊道-沙坝系统,由于其优越的自然条件而成为开发的重点区域。近几年的人类活动主要包括:口门西侧的围填工程,航道的疏浚和八门湾泻湖内的围塘工程。采用SELFE模型,结合观测资料,研究了不同人类活动对潮汐汊道的潮波、潮通量与涨落潮历时、河口重力环流、盐水入侵和河口羽流的影响。结果表明不同的人类活动其对动力的影响不同,口门西侧围填工程减小了潮汐汊道的潮差,对潮通量和盐水入侵影响很小;航道疏浚则加大了潮差和潮通量,加强了河口环流和盐水入侵;泻湖内围塘工程使潮差有所增大,但减小了潮通量,对盐水入侵的影响不显著。口门西侧围填工程改变了河口羽流的路径,而航道疏浚则使河口羽流更加向海扩散。 相似文献
19.
长江河口北槽水沙过程对航道整治工程的响应 总被引：4，自引：3，他引：1
北槽大型航道整治工程确定了南北槽分汊口分流界线, 阻碍了北槽和邻近滩槽的水沙自由交换过程, 使北槽水沙动力过程发生调整。基于工程前后北槽主槽纵向同步水沙观测数据的统计分析表明:入口段落潮优势显著减弱;上段枯季时落潮优势显著减弱, 而洪季时落潮优势有所增强;中段(弯曲段拐点附近)落潮优势略有减弱;下段落潮优势明显加强。北槽主槽水沙纵向输移机制分析表明:欧拉余流、潮泵作用、斯托克斯效应和垂向环流为悬沙输移的主要驱动力, 其中欧拉余流输沙指向海, 斯托克斯输沙和垂向环流输沙指向陆, 而潮泵输沙随着季节而变化。洪季, 欧拉余流输沙和潮泵输沙在工程前后的变化使大潮期河床冲淤由中段和下段普遍落淤转化为中上段集中落淤。枯季, 工程前后稳定的潮流辐散输沙作用使大潮期河床以冲刷为主, 但工程后在入口段和上段潮泵的向上游输沙占优势, 使悬沙在入口段落淤。 相似文献
20.
Morphodynamics of ebb-tidal deltas: a model approach 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
S. M. van Leeuwen M. van der Vegt H. E. de Swart 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2003,57(5-6):899-907
The results of 2DH numerical models of the Frisian Inlet (located in the Dutch Wadden Sea) are discussed to gain further knowledge about the physical mechanisms causing the presence of both ebb-tidal deltas and of channels and shoals in tide-dominated inlet systems. A hydrodynamic model, extended with sediment transport formulations, was used to verify earlier conceptual models that deal with ebb-tidal delta characteristics. The model does not confirm their hypothesis concerning the observed spatial asymmetry of ebb-tidal deltas and suggests that long-term morphological simulations are needed to understand this aspect. Furthermore, the model indicates that the initial formation of the ebb-tidal delta is mainly due to convergence of the tidally averaged sediment flux related to residual currents, whilst the net sediment transport in the basin is mainly caused by tidal asymmetry. A second model (accounting for feedbacks between tidal motion and the erodible bottom) was used to simulate the long-term bathymetric evolution of the Frisian Inlet under fair weather conditions. This model reproduces the gross characteristics of the observed morphology: the presence of a double-inlet system with two distinct ebb-tidal deltas having different sizes and the presence of channels and shoals. The role of the ‘Engelsmanplaat’, a consolidated shoal in the middle of the Frisian Inlet, was not found to be crucial for the morphodynamic stability of this inlet system. 相似文献