共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 31 毫秒
1.
Based mainly on TOGA COARE data, that is, the CI''D data from R/V Xiangyanghong No.5 (Pu et al.,1993),the temperature and current data from the Woods Hole mooring and other deep current data, the layered numerical profiles of buoyancy frequency and mean current components are figured out.A numerical method calculating internal wave dispersion relation without background shear current, used by Fliegel and Hunkins (1975),is improved to be fit for the internal wave equation with mean currents and their second derivatives.The dispersion relations and wave functions of the long crested internal wave progressing in any direction can be calculated inveniently by using the improved method.A comparison between the calculated dispersion relation in the paper and the dispersion relation in GM spectral model of ocean internal waves (Garret and Munk, 1972) is performed.It shows that the mean currents are important to the dispersion relation of internal waves in the western equatorial Pacific Ocean and that the currents make the wave progressing co-directional with (against) the currents stretched (shrink).The influence of the mean currents on dispersion relation is much stronger than that of their second derivatives, but that on wave function is less than that of their second derivatives.The influences on wave functions result in the change of vertical wavenumber, that is, making the wave function stretch or shrink.There exists obvious turning depth but no significant critical layer absorption is found. 相似文献
2.
This part of the paper examines near-surface current data from different periods during the test mooring of the data buoy, DB1.Harmonic analyses show that variations in the major tidal constituents between each period are not significantly greater than the standard error of the measurement: the differences observed in the principal lunar semi-diurnal tide are explained partly in terms of a modulation by adjacent constituents. Unexpected forms for the quarter diurnal tidal ellipses derived from the DB1 data have been found also in independent measurements, in which a different mooring technique had been used. These are therefore unlikely to be of instrumental origin.Non-tidal energy at periods exceeding three days is shown to correlate with changes in wind and surface elevation, the correspondence between wind and current being greatest during a period of strong winds, when current at 3 m depth was 0.9% of wind speed at 8 m. The data are interpreted in favour of an Eulerian current rather than Lagrangian Stokes transport due to waves. Rectification of wave orbital velocities due to buoy motion is not detectable.In view of the overall quality of the data it is concluded that this combination of surface following buoy and long-path acoustic current meter can contribute usefully to the determination of mean near-surface currents in the open sea. 相似文献
3.
完全非线性波浪破碎模型沿岸流数值模拟 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
探讨一种基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程的波浪破碎模型在沿岸流计算中的应用问题。针对控制方程中的完全非线性项对沿岸流成长过程的影响进行了深入讨论。数学模型计算结果表明,完全非线性项有使平均流局部化的作用;通过数模实验还发现,垂向高阶涡度项可以有效抑制破波区外回流;运用Visser的实验室沿岸流实测资料从沿岸流速度、波高和平均水位几方面对所提模型进行了验证,并给出了紊动参数的计算结果。 相似文献
4.
The authors discuss the current measurement accuracy of the RD Instruments 1200-kHz acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) in the near surface and bottom boundaries. Data are presented from tests. In the first series of tests, an ADCP was mounted on a bottom sled in an upward looking mode. The sled was towed at known speeds with and without surface waves. Additionally, tests were conducted with several acoustic baffle designs installed in the transducer head. The 1200-kHz ADCP has the ability to accurately measure mean currents in a dynamic wave induced flow field. Sidelobes can bias the measurements at 85% of the range when bottom or surface boundaries are present. The amount of bias is strongly dependent on surface wave characteristics. Sidelobe bias can be eliminated with a properly designed baffle system. The profilers have the ability to measure wave particle velocities with a properly configured system 相似文献
5.
Implementation and evaluation of alternative wave breaking formulas in a coastal spectral wave model 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
This paper describes methods and results of research for incorporating four different parameterized wave breaking and dissipation formulas in a coastal wave prediction model. Two formulations assume the breaking energy dissipation to be limited by the Rayleigh distribution, whereas the other two represent the breaking wave energy by a bore model. These four formulations have been implemented in WABED, a directional spectral wave model based on the wave action balance equation with diffraction, reflection, and wave–current interaction capabilities. Four parameterized wave breaking formulations are evaluated in the present study using two high-quality laboratory data sets. The first data set is from a wave transformation experiment at an idealized inlet entrance, representing four incident irregular waves in a slack tide and two steady-state ebb current conditions. The second data set is from a laboratory study of wave propagation over a complex bathymetry with strong wave-induced currents. Numerical simulation results show that with a proper breaking formulation the wave model can reproduce laboratory data for waves propagating over idealized or complicated bathymetries with ambient currents. The extended Goda wave breaking formulation with a truncated Rayleigh distribution, and the Battjes and Janssen formulation with a bore model produced the best agreement between model and data. 相似文献
6.
黄海呈现独有的地形条件,且该海域的潮波运动独具特征。本文利用静止海洋水色成像仪（Geostationary Ocean Color Imager, GOCI）遥感反演和俄勒冈州立大学（Oregon State University,OSU）潮流模式分别获取了黄海海域的海表流场,基于该海域独特的潮波系统提出并识别潮波干涉区,进而对GOCI反演的流场做潮流提取,并对两种潮流数据作分区可用性评价,通过实测的漂流浮标数据验证评估。结果表明：利用GOCI反演和OSU潮流模式获取的海表流场具有一定程度的可靠性,GOCI反演的海表流场的流速平均相对大小误差值为0.77,OSU潮流模式获取的海表流场流速平均相对大小误差值为0.49;在靠近潮波干涉区的黄海中部海域,GOCI潮流数据与实测数据在方向上的一致性要优于OSU潮流数据,两者平均角度误差值分别为48.45°和63.10°;在远离潮波干涉区的黄海近岸海域,OSU潮流数据与实测数据在速度大小和方向上的一致性要优于GOCI潮流数据。 相似文献
7.
Fredriksson D.W. Swift M.R. Eroshkin O. Tsukrov I. Irish J.D. Celikkol B. 《Oceanic Engineering, IEEE Journal of》2005,30(1):28-36
Recent work in the area of open ocean aquaculture system dynamics has focused separately upon either the response of fish cages in waves or the steady drag response due to ocean currents. In reality, however, forcing on these open ocean structures is a nonlinear, multidirectional combination of both wave and current profiles. At the University of New Hampshire-operated Open Ocean Aquaculture site, data were collected from a wave measurement buoy and a downward-looking Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler to characterize the surface elevation and water velocity profiles during an extreme northeast storm event. In addition to waves and currents, fish cage motion response in heave, surge, and pitch was inferred from accelerometer measurements during the same storm. The environmental data sets obtained during the peak of the storm were processed, analyzed, and used as input to a dynamic finite-element model. Simulations were performed using three load case scenarios: 1) in both waves and currents; 2) in waves only; and 3) in currents only. Model motion response results in both the time and frequency domain were compared with data obtained in situ . In addition to the motion response tests, the wave and current forcing influencing the mooring line tension response was also investigated. Analysis shows that in this case, the currents do not severely influence the oscillatory motion response, but do cause the cage to tilt, layback, and sink. The wave and current interaction effect did, however, influence the anchor line loads with a portion being attributed to nonlinear effects. 相似文献
8.
A set of depth-integrated equations describing combined wave–current flows is derived and validated. To account for the effect of turbulence induced by interactions between waves and currents with arbitrary horizontal vorticity, new additional stress terms are introduced. These stresses are functions of a parameter b that relates the relative importance of wave radiation stress and bottom friction stress to the wave–current interaction. To solve the equations, a fourth-order MUSCL-TVD scheme with an approximate Riemann solver is adopted. As a first-order check of the model, the Doppler shift effect and wave dispersion over linearly sheared currents are analytically shown to be retained appropriately in the equation set. The model results are then validated through comparisons with three experimental data sets. First, based on the experiments of Kemp and Simons (1982, 1983), a reasonable functional form of b is estimated. Second, simulations examining the propagation of a weakly dispersive wave over a depth-uniform or linearly sheared current are performed. Finally, the model is applied to a more complex configuration where bichromatic waves interact with spatially varying currents. Simulated results indicate that the model is capable of predicting nearshore interactions of waves with currents of arbitrary vertical structure. One of the unique properties of the developed model is its ability to assimilate an external current field from any source, be it from a circulation model or an observation, and predict the interaction of a nonlinear and dispersive wave field with that current. 相似文献
9.
Coastal wetlands such as salt marshes and mangroves provide valuable ecosystem services including coastal protection. Many studies have assessed the influence of plant traits and wave conditions on vegetation-induced wave dissipation, whereas the effect of tidal currents is often ignored. To our knowledge, only two studies investigated wave dissipation by vegetation with the presence of following currents (current velocity is in the same direction as wave propagation) (Li and Yan, 2007; Paul et al., 2012). However, based on independent experiments, they have drawn contradictive conclusions whether steady currents increase or decrease wave attenuation. We show in this paper that this inconsistency may be caused by a difference in ratio of imposed current velocity to amplitude of the horizontal wave orbital velocity. We found that following currents can either increase or decrease wave dissipation depending on the velocity ratio, which explains the seeming inconsistency in the two previous studies. Wave dissipation in plant canopies is closely related to vegetation drag coefficients. We apply a new approach to obtain the drag coefficients. This new method eliminates the potential errors that are often introduced by the commonly used method. More importantly, it is capable of obtaining the vegetation drag coefficient in combined current–wave flows, which is not possible for the commonly used calibration method. Based on laboratory data, we propose an empirical relation between drag coefficient and Reynolds number, which can be useful for numerical modeling. The characteristics of drag coefficient variation and in-canopy velocity dynamics are incorporated into an analytical model to help understand the effect of following currents on vegetation-induced wave dissipation. 相似文献
10.
本文通过物理模型试验研究了波流共同作用下珊瑚礁冠层附近平均流的分布特征以及阻力特性,分析了典型波浪工况下无潮流、正向潮流和反向潮流分别作用下平均流速、摩阻流速、阻力系数的沿礁变化规律。结果表明：无潮流时礁前斜坡及外礁坪上存在海底回流且在礁缘附近回流最强,在礁坪上冠层附近平均流表现为向岸流,且该流沿礁向海岸方向持续增大。相较于无潮流时,正向潮流作用下冠层内外均为向岸流,在礁坪上冠层内外的向岸流显著增大;反向潮流作用下冠层内外均为离岸流且在礁缘处达到最大,该离岸流在礁坪上逐渐减小然后趋于稳定。无潮流时礁坪上摩阻流速呈小幅波动;相较于无潮流时,正向潮流、反向潮流影响下礁坪上摩阻流速显著增大,其中正向潮流影响下增幅更大;无潮流时礁坪上水力粗糙度沿礁减小,正向潮流和反向潮流影响下水力粗糙度普遍有幅度不等的增加。三种工况下礁坪上的阻力系数均沿礁整体呈下降趋势,相较于无潮流时,正向潮流和反向潮流影响下礁坪上的阻力系数显著增大,且正向潮流作用时增幅更大。 相似文献
11.
象山港潮波响应和变形研究──Ⅰ.观测和分析 总被引：4，自引：1，他引：3
利用实测资料分析了象山港海湾对潮波的响应和湾内潮波变形.结果说明象山港对外海传入的半日潮波的振幅有明显的放大作用.M4和MS4两个浅水分潮在湾内快速增长造成了潮波变形和潮不对称性.潮波非线性的沿程变化和不同区域的潮能耗散说明湖滩与潮波变形关系不大,而湖波非线性在牛鼻水道中的增强对湾内潮波变形是重要的,1/4日分潮在湾内的共振作用也对M4和MS4两个浅水分潮起了放大作用. 相似文献
12.
The wave-induced setup and circulation in a two dimensional horizontal (2DH) reef-lagoon-channel system is investigated by a non-hydrostatic model. The simulated results agree well with observations from the laboratory experiments, revealing that the model is valid in simulating wave transformation and currents over reefs. The effects of incident wave height, period, and reef flat water depth on the mean sea level and wave-driven currents are examined. Results show that the distributions of mean sea level and current velocities on the reef flat adjacent to the channel vary significantly from those in the area close to the side walls. From the wave averaged current field, an obvious alongshore flux flowing from the reef flat to the channel is captured. The flux from the reef flat composes the second source of the offshore rip current, while the first source is from the lagoon. A detailed momentum balance analysis shows that the alongshore current is mainly induced by the pressure gradient between the reef flat and the channel. In the lagoon, the momentum balances are between the pressure and radiation stress gradient, which drives flow towards the channel. Along the channel, the offshore current is mainly driven by the pressure gradient. 相似文献
13.
This paper describes a simple method for determining the wavelength of small amplitude waves under laboratory conditions where reflected wave components are present both with and without a mean current flow superimposed. It assumes a locally horizontal bed but requires no a priori assumption concerning the form of the dispersion relation with a coexisting current. Synchronous measurements of the water surface recorded along any straight line are analysed to yield Fourier coefficients at each location. It is then shown that for all practical conditions excluding a perfect standing wave, the average rate of change of wave phase in the chosen direction can be related directly to the component of incident wave number in that direction, irrespective of reflection coefficient or relative current strength. The technique has been applied to regular and bichromatic waves in a flume with an absorbing wave generator, and can also be applied in 3-D wave basins where waves and currents intersect at arbitrary angles. In combined wave–current experiments, by assuming the linear dispersion relation, it is also possible to estimate the effective current velocity. 相似文献
14.
Simultaneous wind, wave, and current data during 21 storms spanning four winters at Tromsøflaket (230 m depth) were analysed to determine joint probabilities of occurrence. Waves were measured with a Waverider Buoy, winds with a recording anemometer onboard a vessel and currents at up to five depths with Aandera RCM-4 current meters. Measured currents were filtered to separate tidal currents from residual currents. In most of the statistical analyses, the actual current profiles were replaced with a simplified “equivalent” profile (constant above 50 m depth) whose magnitude was chosen to give the same drag load on a single pile as the actual profile when both profiles were combined with wave orbital velocities. The data suggest that the equivalent current is weakly correlated with the wave height. Within the range of the data analysed, an in-line equivalent residual current of 30 cm sec−1 is adequate for design drag force calculations.The data presented here are used to illustrate a procedure for data analysis and are not suitable for use as design criteria. 相似文献
15.
David Prandle 《Progress in Oceanography》1991,27(3-4)
Since 1984 the OSCR HF Radar system has been used in over 50 deployments to measure near-shore surface currents for both scientific and engineering applications. The enhanced scope, resolution and accuracy of these measurements have yielded new insights into the tidal, wind and density driven dynamics of the near-shore zone.Tidal current ellipses obtained from these radar measurements have been shown to be in good aggrement with values calculated by numerical models both for the predominant constituents and also for higher harmonics. Coherent patterns of wind-forced currents ahve been determined with strong evidence of a “slab-like” surface response. In one deployment, with offshore winds blowing over relatively deep water, this “slab” rotated clockwise at near-inertial frequency. Strong (up to 20cm s−1), persistent surface residual currents are commonly observed, these are almost certainly generated by (small) horizontal density gradients. These observed surface residuals provide ideal data for rigorous testing of 3-D numerical models.With a threatened rise in sea level, HF Radar is well-suited for observing the expected changes in the dynamics of near-shore regions. Continuing development of these radar systems offers exciting prospects of remote sensing of both surface waves and currents. Future applications may extend beyond the near-shore region to measurements along the shelf-edge, in oceanic gyres and for “beach-processes”. 相似文献
16.
Recent experimental and theoretical findings raise interesting questions about the applicability of the normal gravity-wave dispersion relation at wave frequencies that exceed the spectral peak frequency. The use of the dispersion relation in analysis of HF radar Doppler sea echo is examined in this paper. Drawing on the results of perturbation theory for wave-wave nonlinear interactions, we show that this relation, so essential to echo interpretation in terms of current and wave information, can be employed with no degradation in accuracy for current measurement when the dominant wave frequency is considerably less (by as much as 10) than the radar Bragg resonance frequency. This finding is supported by comparisons of currents measured by HF radar with "surface truth;" the first-order echo must only be identifiable in order to be used accurately. Wave-height directional spectral information can be extracted from the second-order echo at a given radar frequency up to the point (in wave height) where the perturbation solution employed in the inversion process fails; then a lower radar frequency must be used. On the other hand, most conventional wave measuring instruments should not use the dispersion relation for interpretation of data well beyond the spectral peak, because they do not observe wave height as a function of both space and time independently, as does HF radar. 相似文献
17.
海岸沙坝近底悬移质通量实验研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
为了研究海岸沙坝的产生和演化机理,对不规则波和波群作用下沙坝上方的近底悬移质通量进行了实验研究。分析了短波、长波和平均水流对悬移质通量的影响。结果表明:各种波况下平均水流和长波的作用始终使泥沙向离岸方向输移,而短波的作用使泥沙向岸方向运动;平均水流引起的泥沙输移始终占主要成分,长波的次之。不规则波情况下平均水流的影响较规则波的情况相对较弱,三种成分对泥沙输运的贡献属于同一量级。波群情况下长波的影响随着波浪群性的增强而加大,短波的不明显,而平均水流的影响则随着波浪群性的增强而减弱。 相似文献
18.
In this paper, new expressions of radiation stress and volume flux for long waves have been analytically derived by inclusion of higher-order surface elevations up to the sixth-order. To quantify these expressions, surface elevations along a beach are first simulated using the fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type model COULWAVE. Then, based on the large amount of numerical data, new equations for radiation stress and volume flux are statistically formulated. The research unveils the essential roles of the Ursell parameter, Irribarren number and wave steepness described by the local wave height, wave length and bottom slope. The study shows the importance of nonlinear wave properties in wave-induced currents and mean water levels (set-up/down). The higher-order formulations produce lower values for radiation stress and volume flux than calculated from the lower-order and linear waves. Case studies suggest that the new formulations produce an accurate estimation for mean water level. However, improvement on the computed current profiles is marginal for some cases. This implies that the accurate prediction of the current profile would require more than just the proposed improvement of the radiation stress and volume flux. 相似文献
19.
The boundary layer characteristics beneath waves transforming on a natural beach are affected by both waves and wave-induced
currents, and their predictability is more difficult and challenging than for those observed over a seabed of uniform depth.
In this research, a first-order boundary layer model is developed to investigate the characteristics of bottom boundary layers
in a wave–current coexisting environment beneath shoaling and breaking waves. The main difference between the present modeling
approach and previous methods is in the mathematical formulation for the mean horizontal pressure gradient term in the governing
equations for the cross-shore wave-induced currents. This term is obtained from the wave-averaged momentum equation, and its
magnitude depends on the balance between the wave excess momentum flux gradient and the hydrostatic pressure gradient due
to spatial variations in the wave field of propagating waves and mean water level fluctuations. A turbulence closure scheme
is used with a modified low Reynolds number k-ε model. The model was validated with two published experimental datasets for normally incident shoaling and breaking waves
over a sloping seabed. For shoaling waves, model results agree well with data for the instantaneous velocity profiles, oscillatory
wave amplitudes, and mean velocity profiles. For breaking waves, a good agreement is obtained between model and data for the
vertical distribution of mean shear stress. In particular, the model reproduced the local onshore mean flow near the bottom
beneath shoaling waves, and the vertically decreasing pattern of mean shear stress beneath breaking waves. These successful
demonstrations for wave–current bottom boundary layers are attributed to a novel formulation of the mean pressure gradient
incorporated in the present model. The proposed new formulation plays an important role in modeling the boundary layer characteristics
beneath shoaling and breaking waves, and ensuring that the present model is applicable to nearshore sediment transport and
morphology evolution. 相似文献
20.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(2-3):191-208
Rip currents are shore-normal, narrow, seaward-flowing currents that originate within surf zone, extend seaward of the breaking region (rip head), and can obtain relatively high velocities. Within the last decade, there have been a significant number of laboratory and field observations within rip current systems. An overview of rip current kinematics based on these observations and the scientific advances obtained from these efforts are synthesized. Rip current flows are partitioned into mean, infragravity, very low frequency (vorticity), and tidal contributions, and it is found that each contributes significantly to the total. Data from the laboratory and the field suggest that the rip current strength increases with increasing wave energy and decreasing water depths. The maximum mean current occurs inside the surf zone, where the maximum forcing is present owing to the dissipation of waves. 相似文献