共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 31 毫秒
1.
For any specific wind speed, waves grow in period, height and length as a function of the wind duration and fetch until maximum values are reached, at which point the waves are considered to be fully developed. Although equations and nomograms exist to predict the parameters of developing waves for shorter fetch or duration conditions at different wind speeds, these either do not incorporate important variables such as the air and water temperature, or do not consider the combined effect of fetch and duration. Here, the wind conditions required for a fully developed sea are calculated from maximum wave heights as determined from the wind speed, together with a published growth law based on the friction velocity. This allows the parameters of developing waves to be estimated for any combination of wind velocity, fetch and duration, while also taking account of atmospheric conditions and water properties. 相似文献
2.
Wind and waves are major forces affecting the geomorphology and biota in coastal areas. We present a generally applicable method for measuring and calculating fetch length, fetch direction and wave exposure. Fetch length and direction, measured by geographic information system-based methods, are used along with wind direction and wind speed data to estimate wave height and period by applying forecasting curves. The apparent power of waves approaching the shore, used as a proxy for wave exposure, is then calculated by a linear wave model. We demonstrate our method by calculating fetch lengths and wave exposure indices for five areas with varying exposure levels and types of meteorological conditions in the Finnish Archipelago Sea, situated in the northern Baltic Sea. This method is a rapid and accurate means of estimating exposure, and is especially applicable in areas with geomorphologically varying and complicated shorelines. We expect that our method will be useful in several fields, such as basic biogeographical and biodiversity research, as well as coastal land-use planning and management. 相似文献
3.
Sui Shifeng 《海洋学报(英文版)》1990,9(3):343-352
Owing to the fact that the wind speed and direction of typhoon vary rapidly with time and space in typhoon fetch; the nearer to the typhoon eye the greater the wind velocity, and the shorter the wind fetch the smaller the wind time,as a result,the more difficult for the wind wave to fully grow. Hence.in typhoon wave numerical calculation it is impossible to use the model for a fully grown wave spectrum. Lately, the author et at. presented a CHGS method for numerical forecasting of typhoon waves, where a model for the growing wave spectrum was set up (see Eq. (2) in the text). The model involves a parameter indicating the growing degree of wind wave, i. e. ,the mean wave age β. When βvalue is small, the wave energy is chiefly concentrated near the peak frequency, so that the spectral peak gets high and steep; with the increase of β the spectral shape gradually gets lower and gentler; when β=Ⅰ, the wave fully grows, the growing spectrum becomes a fully grown P-M spectrum. The model also shows a spect 相似文献
4.
从定常波的风浪波高随风距成长的预报公式出发 ,在一定条件下 ,导出各波向上风浪波高分量与该波向上的风距之间的关系 ,以便在不规则风区上推算风浪波高和平均波向 ;同时 ,对风区宽度作了定量化的分析。 相似文献
5.
Wilson方法和井岛方法均是移动风区上著名的波浪推算方法,被广泛应用于台风波浪的推算和预报上。本文通过分析指出:使用上述方法以海洋工程界所推行的风浪预报公式作台风浪推算时,所得特征波波陡将与台风浪实测波陡分布定性不符,并指出产生这种缺陷的原因。 相似文献
6.
Naoto Ebuchi 《Journal of Oceanography》1999,55(5):575-584
By using wind vector fields observed by the NASA Scatterometer (NSCAT) and significant wave heights observed by the TOPEX/POSEIDON and European Remote Sensing Satellite-2 (ERS-2) altimeters, one-dimensional fetch growth of wind waves has been investigated under conditions of strong wind and high waves caused by the East Asian winter monsoon in the Sea of Japan. The evolution of fetch-limited wind waves can be observed by the altimeters along their ground tracks. The fetch is estimated by using vector wind fields observed by NSCAT. The derived growth characteristics of wind waves are compared with empirical relationships between the non-dimensional fetch and significant wave height proposed by previous studies. Good agreement is discernible with Toba's fetch graph formula normalized by the friction velocity, while Wilson's well-known formula normalized by the wind speed at a height of 10 m tends to underestimate the wave height under such severe conditions of high wind and very long fetch. This discrepancy is explained by the wind-speed dependence of the drag coefficient. A simple correction to Wilson's formula for the high wind conditions is proposed and compared with the observed data. 相似文献
7.
D.P. Callaghan T.J. Bouma P. Klaassen D. van der Wal M.J.F. Stive P.M.J. Herman 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2010
To unravel the relation between hydrodynamic forcing and the dynamics of the tidal flat–salt-marsh ecosystem, we compared hydrodynamic forcing in terms of proxies relevant to bed sediment motion for four tidal flat–salt-marsh ecosystems that were contrasting in terms of wind exposure (sheltered vs. exposed) and lateral development (shrinking vs. expanding). Wave and current field measurements on these four contrasting tidal flat and salt-marsh ecosystems indicated that the hydrodynamic forcing on the bottom sediment (bed shear stress) was strongly influenced by wind-generated waves, more so than by tidal- or wind-drive currents. The measurements further showed that the hydrodynamic forcing decreased considerably landward of the marsh cliff, highlighting a transition from vigorous (tidal flat and pioneer zone) to sluggish (mature marsh) fluid forcing. Spatial wave modeling using measured wind, revealed that the time-integrated wave forcing on the intertidal mudflat in front of the marsh (i.e., the potential bed sediment pickup) was a factor two higher for salt marshes that are laterally shrinking than for laterally expanding marshes, regardless of whether these marshes were exposed to or sheltered from the wind. The same result could not be obtained from a straightforward wind speed and fetch length approach for estimating wave forcing. This confirmed that wave force estimates required spatial modeling to be consistent with the sites trends of shrinking or expanding marshes and wind exposure is not enough to characterize the wave forcing at these sites. 相似文献
8.
Wave growth in slanting fetch (with wind blowing obliquely off a coast) is investigated with 7 years worth of routine wave measurements in Lake IJssel in The Netherlands and with the SWAN wave model. Two aspects are considered in particular for this case: the validity of the concept of effective fetch and the role of the non-linear four-wave interactions. For slanting and parallel fetch conditions, we found some significant deviations from the effective fetch assumption, leading to 20–35% mismatch in either the peak period Tp or the significant wave height Hm0 respectively. However, the effect of discrepancies between various widely accepted wave growth formulas turned out to be even more important. The wave directions during slanting fetch are significantly ‘steered’ by the coastline, especially in the first kilometre(s) off the coast. The role of the non-linear four-wave interactions is investigated by running the SWAN (version 40.41) wave model with three different quadruplet formulations. Exact quadruplet methods (Xnl) yielded relatively strong wave steering, despite the four-wave interactions being relatively weak. Application of Xnl did not lead to better overall agreement with measurements — improvements for the mean wave period Tm01 were offset by some deterioration for the wave height Hm0. 相似文献
9.
Prediction of wave height and period for a constant wind velocity using the JONSWAP results 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
D.J.T. Carter 《Ocean Engineering》1982,9(1):17-33
The results of the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP), carried out in the North Sea in 1969, are used to derive formulae for significant wave height and wave period in terms of the wind speed (assumed constant) and fetch or duration. Values from the wave height formula are compared with those from the formulae of Bretschneider (1973) and Darbyshire (1963). It is proposed that the JONSWAP results be used for the prediction of fetch and duration limited waves formed under the action of the local wind field. 相似文献
10.
Koji Ueno 《Journal of Oceanography》1998,54(6):641-649
A state of wind waves at a fetch is assumed to be transformed into another state of wind waves at a different fetch by the
renormalization group transformation. The scaling laws for the covariance of water surface displacement and for the one-dimensional
and two-dimensional spectrum and the power law for the growth relation are derived from the fact that the renormalization
group transformation constitutes a semigroup. The scaling relation or the relation among the exponents of the power law is
also derived, using the two assumptions that the renormalization group transformation is applicable to fetch-limited wind
waves and that the saturated range exists, which implies that the directional distribution function of energy in the wave
number region much larger than the peak wave number does not depend on wave number. 相似文献
11.
—A joint probability density function(PDF)for surface slopes in two arbitrary directions is de-rived on the basis of Longuet-Higgins's linear model for three-dimensional(3-D)random wave field.andthe correlation moments of surface slopes.as parameters in the PDF.are expressed in terms of directionalspectrum of ocean waves.So long as the directional spectrum model is given.these parameters are deter-mined.Since the directional spectrum models proposed so far are mostly parameterized by the wind speedand fetch.this allows for substituting these parameters with the wind speed and fetch.As an example.thewind speed and fetch are taken to be 14 m s and 200 km.and the Hasselmann and Donelan directionalspectra are.respectively.used to compute these parameters.Some novel results are obtained,One of the in-teresting results is that the variances of surface slope in downwind and cross-wind directions determined bythe Donelan directional spectra are close to those measured by Cox and Munk(1954).Some discussionsare m 相似文献
12.
研究大型风浪水槽的风浪统计特征，采用多通道测波系统，同步采集沿水槽的１２个测点在不同风速下的风浪数据，从观测事实上分析风浪波面分布和有关要素特征，并建立水槽风浪统计要素与风速，风区长度之间的关系 相似文献
13.
对已有根据观测提出的幂函数形式风浪成长关系进行了分析。发现这些风浪成长关系在消去无因次风区后一致地与3／2指数律相协调，尽管它们原来存在较大的不协调性。发现Jeffreys，Sverdrup和Munk以及Platit的风能输入源函数在谱积分意义下具有相似性，而Tsikunov，Hasselmann和Phillips的破波耗散源函数在谱积分意义下也具有相似性，尽管这些源函数的原始形式和物理背景显著地不同。利用有效波能量平衡方程，将3／2指数律和发现的风能输入及破波耗散源函数相似性相结合，提出了深水风浪随风区成长的分式指数律，以得到的分式指数律拟合已有基于观测提出的风浪成长关系提出了半经验的风浪成长关系，与已有观测数据符合。 相似文献
14.
在实验室风浪水槽中进行纯风浪和混合浪波面位移观测,研究波长较长的规则波对风浪能量的影响.本文用混合浪和纯风浪中的风浪显著波的零阶谱矩之比代表混合浪中的风浪与纯风浪能量之比,并以此表征涌浪对风浪能量的影响.研究了该能量比随涌浪波陡S、风区x、波龄倒数u/C、涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比fs/fwp的变化规律.结果表明,涌浪对风浪能量的抑制作用随涌浪波陡的增加、波龄倒数的增大及涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比的增大而增强.发现该能量比依赖于无因次量R=(1+80(πS)2)1.9(fs/fwp)0.9(u/C)0.27,并拟合得到2者的经验关系.此外,本文实验还发现,在某些情况下,涌浪的存在使风浪能量增加. 相似文献
15.
Murray J. Smith Craig L. Stevens Richard M. Gorman John A. McGregor Cameron G. Neilson 《新西兰海洋与淡水研究杂志》2013,47(5):985-1000
Locally generated wind‐waves in estuaries play an important role in the sediment dynamics and the transport of biota. Wave growth in estuaries is complicated by tidally varying depth, fetch, and currents. Wave development was studied at six sites along a transect across Manukau Harbour, New Zealand, which is a large intertidal estuary with a tidal range of up to 4 m. Three meteorological masts were also deployed across the measurement transect to measure wave forcing by the wind. A spatial variation in wind speed by up to a factor of 2 was observed which has a significant effect on wave development at short fetches. The wind variation can be explained by the extreme change in surface roughness at the upwind land‐water boundary. The tidally varying depth results in non‐stationary wave development. At the long fetch sites wave development is dictated by the tidally varying depth with peak frequencies continuing to decrease after high water, whereas wave height is attenuated by bottom friction. The non‐dimensional energy and peak frequency parameters commonly used to describe wave growth, clearly exhibit depth limiting effects, but with wider scatter than in previous studies in simpler environments. The peak frequency predictions of Young & Verhagen (1996a) fit our data well. However, the wide variability of energy limits the usefulness of standard growth prediction curves in such situations, and highlights the requirement for a validated, shallow‐water numerical model. 相似文献
16.
每年冬季因中国北方冷空气前缘东移出海南下而形成的锋面是造成台湾海峡内恶劣海况的原因之一，锋面的到临常引发快速增高的波浪，这种海况是目前作业化数值预报模式在操作上不易反映的。经验证明根据元素波模式推衍所得的面积风域法推算波浪，适合于推导季风期间海况的一种方法。本文将锋面期间风域是移动的特性结合面积风域理论，作为推算锋面抵达时推算波高的方法。本文提出加权风场内插法计算各时刻各网格点的风速，使得面积风域理论简化为在网格点上的离散计算。文中根据锋面期间实际观测数据计算波能传播速率与风能传播系数等参数，经由案例分析的结果显示这个离散化面积风域法可以合理地推算锋面期间快速成长的波高。 相似文献
17.
Analytically Derived Wind Wave Growth Relations 总被引：3，自引：1，他引：3
By the use of the 3/2 power law presented by Toba combined with the significant wave energy balance equation for wind wave, wind wave growth at a limited fetch is analytically investigated. The new wind wave growth relations (WWGRs) are analytically derived with shehering coefficient and wind drag coefficient as parameters. The geometrical average of observational values of shehering coefficient and the arithmetic average of observational values of wind drag coefficient are applied to detennine the new WWGRs. Comparisons with existing empirical WWGRs are made. 相似文献
18.
Knowledge on intermittency of wave breaking is so far limited to a few summary statistics, while the probability distribution of time interval between breaking events can provide a full view of intermittency. Based on a series of experiments on wind wave breaking, such probability distributions are investigated. Breaking waves within a wave group were taken as a single breaking event according to recent studies. Interval between successive wave groups with breaker is the focus of this paper. For intervals in our experiments with different fetch and wind conditions, their distributions are all skewed and weighted on small intervals. Results of Kolmogorov-Smirnov tests on time series of these intervals indicate that they all follow gamma distribution, and some are even exponential type. Average breaking-group-interval decreases with friction velocity and significant steepness until the wind is strong enough;most of them are more than 10 times the dominant wave period. Group breaking probability proposed by Babanin recently and the average number of breaking waves in wave groups are also discussed, and they are seemingly more reasonable and sensitive than traditional breaking probability defined in terms of single wave. 相似文献
19.
G. S. Golitsyn 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2010,46(1):6-13
The problems of wind-induced waves on the sea surface are considered. To this end, the empirical fetch laws that determine
variations in the basic periods and heights of waves in relation to their fetch are used. The relation between the fetch and
the physical time is found, as are the dependences of the basic characteristics of waves on the time of wind forcing. It is
found that about 5% of wind energy dissipated in the near-water air layer contributes to the growth of wave heights, i.e.
wave energy, although this quantity depends on the age of waves and the exponent in the fetch laws. With consideration for
estimates of the probability distribution functions for the wind over the world ocean [11], it is found that the rate of wind-energy
dissipation in the near-water air layer is on the order of 1 W/m2. The calculations of wind waves [19] for the world ocean for 2007 have made it possible to assess the mean characteristics
of the cycle of wave development and their seasonal variations. An analysis of these calculations [19] shows that about 20%
of wind energy is transferred to the water surface. The remaining amount (80%) of wind energy is spent on the generation of
turbulence in the near-water air layer. About 2%, i.e., one tenth of the energy transferred to water, is spent on turbulence
generation due to the instability of the vertical velocity profile of the Stokes drift current and on energy dissipation in
the surf zones. Of the remaining 18%, 5% is spent directly on wave growth and 13% is spent on the generation of turbulence
during wave breaking and on a small-scale spectral region. These annually and globally mean estimates have a seasonal cycle
with an amplitude on the order of 20% in absolute values but with a smaller amplitude in relative values. According to [19]
and to the results of this study, the annually mean height of waves is estimated as 2.7 m and their age is estimated as 1.17. 相似文献
20.
JUN Ki Cheon JEONG Weon Mu CHOI Jin Yong PARK Kwang Soon JUNG Kyung Tae KIM Mee Kyung CHAE Jang Won QIAO Fangli 《海洋学报(英文版)》2015,34(12):19-28
Record-breaking high waves occurred during the passage of the typhoon Bolaven (1215) (TYB) in the East China Sea (ECS) and Yellow Sea (YS) although its intensity did not reach the level of a super typhoon. Winds and directional wave measurements were made using a range of in-situ instruments mounted on an ocean tower and buoys. In order to understand how such high waves with long duration occurred, analyses have been made through measurement and numerical simulations. TYB winds were generated using the TC96 typhoon wind model with the best track data calibrated with the measurements. And then the wind fields were blended with the reanalyzed synoptic-scale wind fields for a wave model. Wave fields were simulated using WAM4.5 with adjustment of Cd for gust of winds and bottom friction for the study area. Thus the accuracy of simulations is considerably enhanced, and the computed results are also in better agreement with measured data than before. It is found that the extremely high waves evolved as a result of the superposition of distant large swells and high wind seas generated by strong winds from the front/right quadrant of the typhoon track. As the typhoon moved at a speed a little slower than the dominant wave group velocity in a consistent direction for two days, the wave growth was significantly enhanced by strong wind input in an extended fetch and non-linear interaction. 相似文献