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1.
对国内第一个岛屿地形下核电厂的护岸防洪设计进行了研究,提出直立式护岸结构方案以满足核电厂防洪和避让毗邻海岛的要求。在波浪数值模拟计算结果基础上,开展了波浪整体物理模型试验、波浪局部整体物理模型试验和波浪断面物理模型试验,对护岸的越浪量和结构稳定性进行了优化验证。研究结果表明,岛屿地形下,波浪破碎和波能集中导致护岸堤身坡脚处波高增大,须加高挡浪墙和优化挡浪墙结构型式;在相同的越浪量标准下,采用直立堤结构相对斜坡堤结构对应的护岸挡浪墙的高程须明显加高;利用部分海岛地形斜坡高地作为厂区护岸一部分时,原状海岛地形斜坡高地处的波浪爬高效应明显,须加高邻近护岸挡浪墙的高程。  相似文献   

2.
分层斜坡越浪式波能发电装置作为一种重要的波能转换型式,在开发利用波浪能的同时,可与防波堤或护岸工程相结合,将海岸工程的被动消能变为主动吸能,提高综合效益。在实际工程应用中,分层斜坡越浪式发电装置引浪面在波浪荷载作用下的安全性成为首要问题,由于其引浪面与防波堤或护岸的护面对水体磨阻影响不同,因此水体对结构的作用力不同,已有的斜坡式防波堤所受波浪荷载的研究无法用于指导分层斜坡越浪式发电装置引浪面的结构强度设计。通过水工物理模型试验,对分层越浪装置引浪面在不同波况条件下的结构受力进行研究分析,获得越浪装置引浪面上点压力及波浪力的分布规律,为装置的结构设计提供理论指导及设计支持。  相似文献   

3.
波浪在斜坡地形上破碎,破波后稳定波高多采用物理模型试验方法进行研究,利用近岸波浪传播变形的抛物型缓坡方程和波能流平衡方程,导出了适用于斜坡上波浪破碎的数值模拟方法。首先根据波能流平衡方程和缓坡方程基本型式分析波浪在破波带内的波能变化和衰减率,推导了波浪传播模型中波能衰减因子和破波能量流衰减因子之间的关系;其次,利用陡坡地形上的高阶抛物型缓坡方程建立了波浪传播和波浪破碎数学模型;最后,根据物理模型试验实测数据对数值模拟的效果进行验证。数值计算与试验资料比较表明,该模型可以较好地模拟斜坡地形的波浪传播波高变化。  相似文献   

4.
首先分析了港口波况恶化的可能成因,确定观测和分析目标。根据港内波浪中船行波占相当份量的因素和测量作业不能干扰港务活动的要求,讨论了有关港内波浪观测仪器设备、测站布设、观测方法和质量控制的问题。根据波况恶化分析的要求和非平稳波动过程的特点,研究了波浪频谱和特征值的计算、波浪能量的方向分布、不规则波沿海墙的反射和风浪、涌浪及船行波计算的技术。最后作为实例对某港进行了波况恶化的观测和分析。  相似文献   

5.
在水槽中进行了几种不同坡度的斜坡平台上规则波作用下直墙波浪力试验,系统分析了直墙上相对最大压强和相对最大总力,给出了它们之间的比较关系。还进行了不同坡度的不规则波模型试验,并讨论了波浪力之间的特性。结果表明采用1:10、1:15的斜坡与平台相结合的试验室模拟,可得到与平底地形相近的直墙波浪力。  相似文献   

6.
通过波浪水槽实验,对海平面变化造成的波浪动力因素改变引起的沙质岸滩形态响应开展机理性研究。实验采用1∶10单一沙质斜坡概化岸滩,利用3种不同实验水深模拟海平面变化,考虑椭圆余弦波、非规则波、规则波和孤立波4种类型波浪作用。实验对波浪在斜坡上的传播变形、破碎、上爬和回落过程的波高及波浪作用后的岸滩地形进行了测量。实验结果表明,椭圆余弦波、规则波和非规则波作用下,平衡岸滩呈现出滩肩形态,孤立波作用下则呈沙坝形态。海平面上升造成波浪动力增强,沙质岸滩平衡剖面形状基本保持不变向岸平移,槽谷、滩肩、沙坝位置以及岸线蚀退距离,均呈现出良好规律性。  相似文献   

7.
针对青岛万达游艇码头项目进行了港域波浪物理模型试验研究。试验表明,当口门处人工岛护岸采用直立式结构时,港池入口处波浪反射严重,港内波高较大,各码头泊位不满足泊稳要求;当采用斜坡式结构时,港内波高显著减小,游艇码头泊位满足泊稳要求,工作船泊位不满足泊稳要求,其最大波高比允许值仅大0.1m。采用MIKE21BW模型,考虑波浪的折射、绕射、反射及破碎等物理过程,对港域的波浪传播变形过程进行数值模拟,计算得到了港域的波浪分布状况,将计算结果与试验结果进行比较,吻合良好,表明该模型可用于近岸波浪的传播变形模拟及港域泊稳计算,计算结果可用于游艇码头结构设计。  相似文献   

8.
在快速模拟波浪运动的谱方法基础上,引入造波边界,建立了模拟波浪产生和运动的二阶计算模型。采用摄动展开方法简化了带有造波边界的水波运动问题,将速度势分解,得到了满足造波边界和自由面边界的速度势的一般解,运用快速Fourier变换和时间积分,建立了模拟波浪产生和运动的数学模型。基于该模型,采用不同的数值造波条件,模拟了波浪的产生问题;考虑了波浪的初始运动问题;通过把数值结果与物理实验的比较,验证了波浪计算模型的有效性。  相似文献   

9.
波浪种种     
海洋表面及其内部的各种波动现象统称为波浪。波浪按其成因不同而有各种名称,如由风产生的风浪、涌浪和混合浪又称为海浪;由天体引力产生的潮汐波;由地震或风暴而产生的海啸;由航行船舶产生的船行波;在两层密度上有显著差异的水层界面上产生的内波等。  相似文献   

10.
准确确定越浪量对于斜坡堤设计有重要意义。利用格子Boltzmann方法(LBM),并采用主动吸收式速度入口造波、出流边界消波、VOF方法追踪自由表面以及静态Smagorinsky模型模拟紊流运动,建立二维数值波浪水槽,对光滑斜坡堤上规则波与不规则波越浪进行数值模拟。模拟结果与试验值及其他数值模型结果比较表明,二维LBM数值波浪水槽具有模拟斜坡堤越浪的能力,但对于破碎较为剧烈的越浪过程模拟,该模型还存在一定的不足,未来可从提高自由表面模型精度等方面进一步改善其性能。  相似文献   

11.
The experimental investigation of the run-up of periodic internal waves in a two-layer fluid on the coastal slope is performed in an open hydrochannel at the Physical Department of the Lomonosov Moscow State University. The waves are produced by a wave generator. We study the transformation of waves, the vertical structure of the field of velocities of mass transfer, and the behavior of the parameters of internal waves propagating over the sloping bottom. It is shown that the run-up and breaking of internal waves are accompanied by periodic emissions of portions of the heavier fluid from the bottom layer upward along the slope. The Stokes drift velocity changes its sign as a function of depth. Moreover, both the wave length (the horizontal distance between the neighboring crests) and the height of waves over the sloping bottom (the elevation of the crest over the slope along the vertical) decrease as the wave approaches the coast.  相似文献   

12.
A series of hydraulic model tests are carried out to investigate random wave run-up and overtopping on smooth, impermeable single slope and composite slope. Based on analysis of the influences of wave steepness, structure slope, incident wave angle, width of the berm and water depth on the berm and the wave run-up, empirical formulas for wave run-up on dike are proposed. Moreover, empirical formula on estimating the wave run-up on composite slope with multiple berms is presented for practical application of complex dike cross-section. The present study shows that the influence factors for wave overtopping are almost the same as those for wave run-up and the trend of the wave overtopping variation with main influence parameters is also similar to that for wave run-up. The trend of the wave overtopping discharge variations can be well described by two main factors, i.e. the wave run-up and the crest freeboard of the structure. A new prediction method for wave overtopping discharge is proposed for random waves. The proposed prediction formulas are applied to case study of over forty cases and the results show that the prediction methods are good enough for practical design purposes.  相似文献   

13.
The run-up and back-wash processes of single and double solitary waves on a slope were studied experimentally. Experiments were conducted in three different wave flumes with four different slopes. For single solitary wave, new experimental data were acquired and, based on the theoretical breaking criterion, a new surf parameter specifically for breaking solitary waves was proposed. An equation to estimate maximum fractional run-up height on a given slope was also proposed. For double solitary waves, new experiments were performed by using two successive solitary waves with equal wave heights; these waves were separated by various durations. The run-up heights of the second wave were found to vary with respect to the separation time. Particle image velocimetry measurements revealed that the intensity of the back-wash flow generated by the first wave strongly affected the run-up height of the second wave. Showing trends similar to that of the second wave run-up heights, both the back-wash breaking process of the first wave and the reflected waves were strongly affected by the wave–wave interaction. Empirical run-up formula for the second solitary wave was also introduced.  相似文献   

14.
-The effect of wave group on wave run-up on a slope dike is mainly discussed in this paper. Two simulating methods of wave group and their applications in laboratory are introduced. Synthesizing the research results of wave run-up on a slope dike, the effect of wave group on wave run-up on a slope dike in coastal protection engineering is studied as the main point.  相似文献   

15.
This paper presents the results of a parametric study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs using the shock-capturing Boussinesq wave model Funwave-TVD to better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of wave-driven flooding. Laboratory experiments were newly performed with a typical fringing reef profile and typical hydrodynamic conditions to validate the model. Experimental data shows irregular wave run-ups are dominated by the low-frequency motions and confirms the run-up resonant phenomenon over the back-reef slope, which has been revealed in previous numerical studies. It is demonstrated that irregular wave evolution and run-up over fringing reefs are reasonably reproduced by the present model with a proper grid size. However, the infragravity run-up height and highest 2% run-up height over the back-reef slope are under-predicted due to the underestimation of the infragravity wave height over the reef flat. The validated model was then utilized to model irregular wave transformations and run-ups under different conditions. Through a series of numerical experiments, the effects of key hydrodynamic and reef geometry parameters, including the reef flat width, water depth over the reef flat, fore-reef slope angle and back-reef slope angle, on the irregular wave run-up were investigated. Variations of spectral components of irregular wave run-ups were examined to better understand the physical process underlying the effect of each parameter.  相似文献   

16.
A run-up of irregular long sea waves on a beach with a constant slope is studied within the framework of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. This problem was solved earlier for deterministic waves, both periodic and pulse ones, using the approach based on the Legendre transform. Within this approach, it is possible to get an exact solution for the displacement of a moving shoreline in the case of irregular-wave run-up as well. It is used to determine statistical moments of run-up characteristics. It is shown that nonlinearity in a run-up wave does not affect the velocity moments of the shoreline motion but influences the moments of mobile shoreline displacement. In particular, the randomness of a wave field yields an increase in the average water level on the shore and decrease in standard deviation. The asymmetry calculated through the third moment is positive and increases with the amplitude growth. The kurtosis calculated through the fourth moment turns out to be positive at small amplitudes and negative at large ones. All this points to the advantage of the wave run-up on the shore as compared to a backwash at least for small-amplitude waves, even if an incident wave is a Gaussian stationary process with a zero mean. The probability of wave breaking during run-up and the applicability limits for the derived equations are discussed.  相似文献   

17.
张景新  刘桦 《海洋工程》2009,(3):553-564
Submerged barriers are constructed in coastal zones for shoreline or harbor protection or to prevent the beach erosion. In the present study, the wave run-up on a vertical seawall protected by a submerged barrier is analyzed. The physical configurations include a rigid barrier and a long channel of finite depth. For linear water waves, by matching the velocity along the barrier and along the gap, the systems of linear equations about the velocity potentials are obtained. The wave run-up is further analyzed for various settings of barrier height and distance between the barrier and the wall, i.e. the chamber length. For nonlinear waves and random sea waves, a numerical model is extended to investigate the effect parameters of the barrier on the wave run-up against the seawall. Not only the numerical simulations, but also the analytical results illustrate that the wave run-up on the seawall depends very much on the distance between the barrier and the vertical seawall.  相似文献   

18.
Study on the Interaction of Water Waves with Semi-Circular Breakwater   总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3  
—The present study investigates the interaction of steep waves with semi-circular breakwaterwith the complex plane's Cauchy boundary integral theorem.The boundary integral method is used totransform the calculation in fluid domain into its boundary alone.In the calculation the computation do-main is moved with the propagation of waves.A numerical solution is obtained for incident Stokes wavespassing the submerged obstacles.This method has been extended to the calculation of wave run-up on aslope for estimating wave overtopping.  相似文献   

19.
In this paper we review and re-examine the classical analytical solutions for run-up of periodic long waves on an infinitely long slope as well as on a finite slope attached to a flat bottom. Both cases provide simple expressions for the maximum run-up and the associated flow velocity in terms of the surf-similarity parameter and the amplitude to depth ratio determined at some offshore location. We use the analytical expressions to analyze the impact of tsunamis on beaches and relate the discussion to the recent Indian Ocean tsunami from December 26, 2004. An important conclusion is that extreme run-up combined with extreme flow velocities occurs for surf-similarity parameters of the order 3–6, and for typical tsunami wave periods this requires relatively mild beach slopes. Next, we compare the theoretical solutions to measured run-up of breaking and non-breaking irregular waves on steep impermeable slopes. For the non-breaking waves, the theoretical curves turn out to be superior to state-of-the-art empirical estimates. Finally, we compare the theoretical solutions with numerical results obtained with a high-order Boussinesq-type method, and generally obtain an excellent agreement.  相似文献   

20.
Infra-gravity wave generation by the shoaling wave groups over beaches   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
A physical parameter, μb, which was used to meet the forcing of primary short waves to be off-resonant before wave breaking, has been considered as an applicable parameter in the infra-gravity wave generation. Since a series of modulating wave groups for different wave conditions are performed to proceed with the resonant mechanism of infra-gravity waves prior to wave breaking, the amplitude growth of incident bound long wave is assumed to be simply controlled by the normalized bed slope, βb. The results appear a large dependence of the growth rate, α, of incident bound long wave, separated by the three-array method, on the normalized bed slope, βb. High spatial resolution of wave records enables identification of the cross-correlation between squared short-wave envelopes and infra-gravity waves. The cross-shore structure of infra-gravity waves over beaches presents the mechanics of incident bound- and outgoing free long waves with the formation of free standing long waves in the nearshore region. The wave run-up and amplification of infra-gravity waves in the swash zone appear that the additional long waves generated by the breaking process would modify the cross-shore structure of free standing long waves. Finally, this paper would further discuss the contribution of long wave breaking and bottom friction to the energy dissipation of infra-gravity waves based on different slope conditions.  相似文献   

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