共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 31 毫秒
1.
Miguel A. LOSADA 《中国海洋工程》1999,(1)
—According to the energy equation,the relation between reflection and energy losses for shortwaves from mild beaches is established and analysed.A reflection coefficient varying with position and en-ergy losses is proposed.Different reflection tests are conducted to check the theoretical analysis.A modi-fied method to estimate the reflection coefficient at varied water depths is suggested based on the linearwave theory.The study indicates that the reflection coefficient from mild beaches has a changing trend forshort waves approaching shoreline. 相似文献
2.
Efficient Generation of Freak Waves in Laboratory 总被引：3，自引：1，他引：3
In the present study,Kriebel's method is improved to generate freak waves in laboratory.The improved method superposes a random wave train with two transient wave trains to simulate freak wave events in a wave tank.The freak waves are more nonlinear than what generated with Kriebel's method of the same energy.It can also generate freak waves to satisfy all the qualifications of the adopted definition with less energy than Kriebel's and can hardly influence the significant wave height. 相似文献
3.
The propagation,shoaling and breaking of solitary waves on mild slopes are simulated byboundary element method.In this paper,the criterion of breaking solitary waves on mild slopes is discussed.The criterion is that the ratio of horizontal velocity of water particles on the wave crest to wave celerity equalsone.However,the case that the ratio of horizontal velocity of water particles on the wave crest to wave ce-lerity is below one but the front face of wave profile becomes vertical is also considered as a breaking criteri-on.According to the above criteria,the breaking index for slopes 1:10 to 1:25 is studied.The result is com-pared to other researchers'.The deformation of solitary waves on slopes is discussed and the distribution offluid velocities at breaking is shown. 相似文献
4.
Resonance Induced by Edge Waves in Hua-Lien Harbor 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
This article first reviews previous numerical studies on the resonance problem of Hua-Lien Harbor. All the research leads to the conclusion that resonance can be stimulated by 2-D infragravity waves. However, a literature survey suggests that outside the harbor these plane infragravity waves are too small to excite violent water-body movement inside. On the other hand, 3-D infragravity waves trapped along the coastline, also known as edge waves, are more likely to exist outside the harbor and their effect needs to be thoroughly discussed. Based on previous measurements, the response of Hua-Lien Harbor is best simulated using edge waves of 160 and 140 second periods and their resonance mechanisms are analyzed. The former case has a longitudinal resonant mode and hence the amplitude in the inner harbor is large. The latter case has a transverse mode in the outer basin and hence only berths in the outer basin are influenced. These features are both consistent with field measurement. Therefore, it is very likely that edge waves are responsible for the resonance of Hua-Lien Harbor. Finally, based on observation after the construction of the present offshore breakwaters, a theory is proposed to explain the trapping of incident edge waves, and a measure to further reduce the resonance is discussed. 相似文献
5.
Qiu Dahong Zang Jun Jia Ying
Academician of the Chinese Academy of Sciences Professor the State Key Laboratory of Coastal Offshore Engineering 《中国海洋工程》1996,(2)
Based on the 2nd order cnoidal wave theory, the characters of shallow water standing waves and their action on vertical walls are studied in this paper. The theoretical expressions of the wave surface elevation in front of and the wave pressure on the vertical wall are obtained. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests were made in the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering at DUT. For the wave surface elevation in front of the wall and the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes down to the bottom of the wave trough, the calculated results coincide quite well with the experimental results. For the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes up to the top of the wave crest, the theoretical expressions are modified by the experimental results. For the convenience of practical use, calculations are made for the wave conditions which usually occur in enginering practice by use of the inves 相似文献
6.
Groupiness of Sea Waves and Their Characteristic Parameters 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Yu Yuxiu Gui Manhai
Professor Dept. of Civil Eng. Dalian University of Technology Dalian Master Dept. of Civil Eng. Dalian University of Technology Dalian 《中国海洋工程》1996,(1)
Three methods for studying wave groups and their main parameters for describing wave groupiness are reviewed in this paper. Then they are analyzed and compared combined with field data from both aspects of group height and group length. A method and two parameters that can describe wave groupiness are suggested. The groupiness parameters of sea waves at three field stations are given. The effects of groupiness on both distributions of the wave height and the phase of component waves are investigated. The effects of datum length on the calculated value of grouping parameters are also discussed. 相似文献
7.
Interaction Between Waves and A Comb-Type Breakwater 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：2
The characteristics of wave transmission, reflection and energy dissipation of comb-type caisson breakwaters are studied through laboratory physical model tests. Regular and irregular waves, with a wide range of wave heights and periods and a constant water depth, are considered. Different dimensions of each portion of the comb-type caisson breakwater are tested. Empirical formulae for calculating the reduction coefficient k, which is the ratio of horizontal wave force on unit length of the comb-type breakwater to that on unit length of the vertical wall breakwater, and for calculating the reflection coefficient of waves k, are obtained from the measurements. The comb-type caisson breakwater has been found to be very efficient in dissipating incident wave energy and in reducing wave reflection, and has already been used for the construction of an island breakwater in the Dayao Bay of Dalian Port, Liaoning Province, China. Compared with the cost of a common caisson breakwater, about 24. 5% of the investm 相似文献
8.
Active Absorption Wave Maker System for Irregular Waves 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
1 .IntroductionThephysicalmodeltestisoneofthemainmethodstostudyvariousproblemsassociatedwiththedesignofcoastalstructures .Thecommonlyusedwavemakeristhepiston typewavemaker .Becausethewavemakerishighlyreflective ,akeyproblemisthewavemultiplereflectionsbetweenthewavemakerandthetestedstructuresinthewaveflume .There reflectedwavesfromthewavemakerarespuriouswavesrelativetotheincidentwavestothestructures .Howtopreventthere reflectedwavesfromthewavemakerbecomesacriticalproblemforaccurateexperimental… 相似文献
9.
利用大型水槽设计了在由深水到近岸不同坡度处海浪在变浅作用下诱导产生的长周期重力波的实验。正态随机海浪在深水生成并沿斜坡向浅水传播,记录了不同水深处波面高度随时间的变化过程并进行统计分析和谱分析。实验数据分析结果表明,长周期重力波的能量随着水深的变浅而增高,其谱锋频率位于0.2~0.3fp附近,这里fp是深水正态海浪过程的谱峰频率。长周期重力波的能量与入射波的能量比与波面高度分布的偏度密切相关。进一步分析了两种波动的能量谱峰值比和波面高度分布偏度的相关关系,获得了经验关系,为预测近岸浅水长周期重力波提供了科学依据。 相似文献
10.
Freak waves are generated based on the mechanism of wave focusing in a 2D numerical wave tank. To set up the nonlinear numerical wave tank, the Boundary Element Method is used to solve potential flow equations incorporated with fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions. The nonlinear properties of freak waves, such as high frequency components and wave profile asymmetry, are discussed. The kinematic data, which can be useful for the evaluation of the wave forces exerted on structures to avoid underestimation of linear predictions, are obtained, and discussed, from the simulated results of freak waves. 相似文献
11.
12.
采用基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程建立的精细化海浪数值模型——Funwave-TVD模式及水槽实验数据进行拍岸浪数值模拟研究,并对不同入射情况拍岸浪进行数值模拟得出:拍岸浪缓坡传播过程中,均符合波高先增大直至破碎后迅速减小这一现象;在典型坡度1.91°(1∶30)情况下,进行了大量数值模拟,当仅入射波高增大时,破碎波高增大,破碎位置向深水区移动;当仅入射周期增大时,除上述特征外,当周期增大到一定程度时,这种趋势显著减弱;同时,当入射周期和波高较大时,非线性效应增强,模拟结果出现不稳定。下一步将利用实验与数值模拟相结合的优势,对前人拍岸浪预报方法和理论进行深入分析研究,为实现拍岸浪精细化预报提供优化解决方案。 相似文献
13.
Efficient Focusing Models for Generation of Freak Waves 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Four focusing models for generation of freak waves are presented. An extreme wave focusing model is presented on the basis of the enhanced High-Order Spectral (HOS) method and the importance of the nonlinear wave-wave interaction is evaluated by comparison of the calculated results with experimental and theoretical data. Based on the modification of the Longuet-Higgins model, four wave models for generation of freak waves (a. extreme wave model + random wave model; b. extreme wave model + regular wave model... 相似文献
14.
Nicholas DODD 《中国海洋工程》1999,(2)
-A nonlinear model of mean free surface of waves or wave set-up is presented.The model isbased on that of Roelvink(1993),but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on theWeighted-Average Flux(WAF)method(Watson et al,1992),with Time-Operator-Splitting(TOS)usedfor the treatment of the source terms.This method allows a small number of computational points to beused,and is particularly efficient in modeling wave set-up.The short wave(or primary wave)energy equa-tion is solved by use of a more traditional Lax-Wendroff technique.A nonlinear wave theory(James,1974)is introduced.The model described in this paper is found to be satisfactory in most respects whencompared with the measurements conducted by Stive(1983)except in modeling the mean free surface veryclose to the mean shoreline. 相似文献
15.
The nonlinear interactions of waves with a double-peaked power spectrum have been studied in shallow water.The starting point is the prototypical equation for nonlinear unidirectional waves in shallow water,i.e.the Korteweg de Vries equation.By means of a multiple-scale technique two defocusing coupled Nonlinear Schrdinger equations are derived.It is found analytically that plane wave solutions of such a system are unstable for small perturbations,showing that the existence of a new energy exchange mechanism which can influence the behavior of ocean waves in shallow water. 相似文献
16.
近岸海浪模式在中国东海台风浪模拟中的应用--数值模拟及物理过程研究 总被引：6，自引：2，他引：6
较为详细地介绍了基于能量平衡方程的第三代近岸海浪数值模式SWAN（Simulation Waves Nearshore）及其包含的物理过程（风生浪、底摩擦、白浪耗散、深度诱导波破碎、非线性波－波相作用等），并利用该模式对影响杭州湾－长江口沿岸海域的一次台风浪过程进行了模拟研究：模式所需风场由藤田台风风场模型嵌入对应台风特征等压线，并对相应时段的NCAR／NCEPT资料、单站资料进行同化后提供；利用自嵌套的方式提供波谱边界条件；模式模拟的结果与实际海浪观测资料相符较好，在此基础上，研究了底摩擦、深度诱导波破碎、三波相互作用等物理过程联合对近岸台风浪的影响，初步认识了它们在近岸台风浪生成、传播过程中的重要作用。 相似文献
17.
Numerical Study of Two-Dimensional Focusing Waves 总被引：6，自引：3，他引：3
Two-dimensional focusing waves are generated and investigated by numerical method. The numerical model is developed by introducing the wave maker boundary on the high-order spectral （HOS） method proposed by Dommermuth and Yue in 1987 and verified by theoretical and experimental data. Some cases of focusing waves considering different parameters such as assumed focusing amplitudes, frequency bandwidth, central frequency and frequency spectrum are generated. Characteristics of the focusing wave including surface elevations, the maximum crest, shift of focusing points and frequency spectra are discussed. The results show that the focusing wave characteristics are strongly affected by focusing amplitudes, frequency bandwidth, central frequency and frequency spectrum. 相似文献
18.
Yao Guoquan Ma Zhixiong Ding Bingcan Senior Engineer River Harbor Department Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute Nanjing Assistant Engineer River Harbor Department Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1991,(3)
- This paper presents a calculation method for the diffraction of both regular waves and irregular waves of the single directional frequency spectrum behind a single jetty with a theoretical analysis, which has been confirmed through the model experiments, derives a method of computing the diffracted irregular waves behind the single jetty with the theoretical analysis on the basis of computation of the field data and gives the formulas and the figures of the computation of wave diffractions behind the vertical wall or mound single jetties. 相似文献
19.
WANG Wei QIAN Chengchun
Professor Physical Oceanography Laboratory Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao P. R. China
Associate Professor Physical Oceanography Laboratory Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao P. R. China 《中国海洋工程》1999,(3)
Based on observed wind waves,the relationships between wave spectrum products and wavecharacteristics are established successfully,and the apparent energy distribution of sea waves is expressed as afunction of wave characteristics. 相似文献
20.
It is difficult to compute far-field waves in a relative large area by using one wave generation model when a large calculation domain is needed because of large dimensions of the waterway and long distance of the required computing points. Variation of waterway bathymetry and nonlinearity in the far field cannot be included in a ship fixed process either. A coupled method combining a wave generation model and wave propagation model is then used in this paper to simulate the wash waves generated by the passing ship. A NURBS-based higher order panel method is adopted as the stationary wave generation model; a wave spectrum method and Boussinesq-type equation wave model are used as the wave propagation model for the constant water depth condition and variable water depth condition, respectively. The waves calculated by the NURBS-based higher order panel method in the near field are used as the input for the wave spectrum method and the Boussinesq-type equation wave model to obtain the far-field waves. With this approach it is possible to simulate the ship wash waves including the effects of water depth and waterway bathymetry. Parts of the calculated results are validated experimentally, and the agreement is demonstrated. The effects of ship wash waves on the moored ship are discussed by using a diffraction theory method. The results indicate that the prediction of the ship induced waves by coupling models is feasible. 相似文献