共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 140 毫秒
1.
The effect of a thin viscous fluid–mud layer on nearshore nonlinear wave–wave interactions is studied using a parabolic frequency-domain nonlinear wave model, modified to incorporate a bottom dissipation mechanism based on a viscous boundary layer approach. The boundary-layer formulation allows for explicit calculation of the mud-induced wave damping rate. The model performed well in tests based on laboratory data. Numerical tests show that damping of high frequency waves occurs, mediated by “difference” nonlinear interactions. Simulations of 2-dimensional wave propagation over a mud “patch” of finite extent show that the wave dissipation causes significant downwave diffraction effects. 相似文献
2.
If the upstream boundary conditions are prescribed based on the incident wave only, the time-dependent numerical models cannot effectively simulate the wave field when the physical or spurious reflected waves become significant. This paper describes carefully an approach to specifying the incident wave boundary conditions combined with a set sponge layer to absorb the reflected waves towards the incident boundary. Incorporated into a time-dependent numerical model, whose governing equations are the Boussinesq-type ones, the effectiveness of the approach is studied in detail. The general boundary conditions, describing the down-wave boundary conditions are also generalized to the case of random waves. The numerical model is in detail examined. The test cases include both the normal one-dimensional incident regular or random waves and the two-dimensional oblique incident regular waves. The calculated results show that the present approach is effective on damping the reflected waves towards the incident wave boundary. 相似文献
3.
The Goda's method of separating the frequency spectrum of the unidirectional incident and reflected waves is improved. The proposed method can be applied to the separation of oblique incident and reflected waves and the two wave gauges can be arranged in an arbitrary angle in front of a structure. When the projected distance of the two probes on the incident wave direction is the multiple ofthe half length of the incident waves, the singular problem will emerge by using the method. It is advised that when the projected distance of the two measured points on the incident wave direction is 0.05～0.45 times the wave length of peak frequency wave, good results can be obtained. The simulated resultant waves are separated by the method of numerical simulation and the separated wave spectra are basically corresponding to the target spectra input. The wave trains calculated by the separated incident and reflected wave frequency spectrum are approximated to the input wave trains and the reflected coefficient can be derived correctly. Therefore, the method proposed in this paper is reliable. 相似文献
4.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,38(3):167-176
An existing 2D method for separating incident and reflected waves over a horizontal bed [Frigaard, P., Brorsen, M., 1995. A time domain method for separating incident and reflected irregular waves. Coastal Eng., 24, 205–215.] is modified to account for normally incident linear waves propagating over a bed with arbitrary 2D bathymetry. Linear shoaling is used to determine the amplitude and phase change between two measurement positions; thereafter the existing technique can be applied. Comparisons between the existing and modified methods are made using numerically simulated data. Errors in the reflection coefficient are found to be small for large reflection coefficients, but may become large if reflection is low. However, if an accurate assessment of the amplitude of the incident and reflected wave trains is required, the bathymetry must be accounted for in order to avoid significant errors (up to 90% for cases considered). 相似文献
5.
分层流体中内孤立波在潜浮式竖直薄板上透射和反射 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
采用边缘层理论研究了两层流体系统中内孤立波在潜浮式竖直薄板上的透射和反射问题,提出了非线性演化方程的“初值”条件,分析了内孤立波与薄板非线性相互作用的效应。研究表明:流体层的密度比以及薄板伸入上下层的深度对于反射和透射波结构具有显著的影响,薄板伸入下层越深、密度差越小,则薄板阻碍孤立波透射的效率越高;透射波通常演化为单峰孤立波和迅速衰减的尾波,反射波演化为缓慢衰减的尾波列;对于具有小密度差的跃层结构,内孤立波在潜浮式竖直薄板上的透射及其演化近乎是无障碍的。 相似文献
6.
A technique is developed to separate the incident and reflected waves propagating on a known current in a laboratory wave–current flume by analyzing wave records measured at two or more locations using a least squares method. It can be applied to both regular and irregular waves. To examine its performance, numerical tests are made for waves propagating on quiescent or flowing water. In some cases, to represent the signal noise and measurement error, white noise is superimposed on the numerically generated wave signal. For all the cases, good agreement is observed between target and estimation. 相似文献
7.
The vegetation has important impacts on coastal wave propagation. In the paper, the sensitivities of coastal wave attenuation due to vegetation to incident wave height, wave period and water depth, as well as vegetation configurations are numerically studied by using the fully nonlinear Boussinesq model. The model is based on the implementation of drag resistances due to vegetation in the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation where the drag resistance is provided by the Morison’s formulation for rigid structure induced drag stresses. The model is firstly validated by comparing with the experimental results for wave propagation in vegetation zones. Subsequently, the model is used to simulate waves with different height, period propagating on vegetation zones with different water depth and vegetation configurations. The sensitivities of wave attenuation to incident wave height, wave period, water depth, as well as vegetation configurations are investigated based on the numerical results. The numerical results indicate that wave height attenuation due to vegetation is sensitive to incident wave height, wave period, water depth, as well as vegetation configurations, and attenuation ratio of wave height is increased monotonically with increases of incident wave height and decreases of water depth, while it is complex for wave period. Moreover, more vegetation segments can strengthen the interaction of vegetation and wave in a certain range. 相似文献
8.
This paper presents a laboratory technique for measurement of reflected waves by a submerged horizontal plate. A simple method is proposed to decompose the composite wave record obtained from the wave reflection experiments in the wave flume. The data collected were used to compute the reflected wave height by means of two and three probe methods proposed by other investigators and compared with the directly computed reflected wave using the measured incident wave. The experiment was carried out for a horizontal plate of 1 m length spanning the full width of the flume with wave periods ranging from 0.8 to 1.8 sec with 0.1 sec increments and wave heights of 5, 10 and 15 cm. The methods using two and three probes with phase measurement yield better results than the three probe method without phase measurement, and in general they have a wider range of application. The method using three probes without the phase measurement generally fails due to numerical instability of the scheme. The results obtained by the proposed method are compared with the two and three probe methods and a comparative analysis of the four methods is presented and discussed. 相似文献
9.
CHANG Hsien-Kuo 《中国海洋工程》2002,16(4):499-511
This study presents a three-point method for separating incident and reflected waves to explain normally incident waves' propagating over a sloping bed. Linear wave shoaling is used to determine changes in wave amplitude and phase in response to variations of bathymetry. The wave reflection coefficient and incident amplitude are estimated from wave heights measured at three fixed wave gauges with unequal spacing. Sensitivity analysis demonstrates that the proposed method can predict the reflection and amplitude of waves over a sloping bed more accurately than the two-point method. 相似文献
10.
本文采用圆柱体阵列来模拟珊瑚礁面的大糙率,通过波浪水槽实验研究礁面糙率对孤立波传播变形及岸滩爬高的影响。结果表明,粗糙礁面的存在显著削弱了礁坪上孤立波的首峰和礁后岸滩反射造成的次峰,同时降低了波浪在珊瑚礁面的传播速度;垂直于岸线方向沿礁相对波高随着入射波增大而减小,随着礁坪水深的增大而增大,粗糙礁面上波高沿礁的衰减更为显著;礁前斜坡的无量纲反射波高随无量纲入射波高的变化与礁坪水深有关,当入射波高足够大时其趋于常值,粗糙礁面略微增大了礁前斜坡的反射;无量纲透射波高和岸滩爬高随着无量纲入射波高的增大而减小,特别是礁坪水深较大时更为显著,粗糙礁面时的无量纲岸滩爬高相对于光滑礁面平均减小46%;通过回归分析得出了同时适合于光滑和粗糙礁面的预测孤立波岸滩爬高的经验关系式。 相似文献
11.
港口中系泊船在波浪作用下运动问题的本质是浅水波浪与浮体的相互作用。与深水情况不同,浅水问题应当考虑水底、水域边界的影响及浅水波浪自身的特性,单一模型很难实现该模拟过程。为此,建立了Boussinesq方程计算入射波和Laplace方程计算散射波的全时域组合计算模型。有限元法求解的Boussinesq方程能使入射波充分考虑到水底、水域边界的影响和浅水波浪的特性;散射波被线性化,采用边界元法求解,并以浮体运动时的物面条件为入射波和散射波求解的匹配条件。该方法为完全的时域方法,计算网格不随时间变动,计算过程较为方便。通过与实验及其他数值方法的结果进行比较,验证了本模型对非线性波面、浮体的运动都有比较理想的计算结果,显示了本模型对非线性问题具有较好的计算能力。 相似文献
12.
开孔沉箱是将传统沉箱的前壁开孔,使沉箱前的入射波浪与反射波浪非同相位叠加,达到消能目的。消浪室是开孔沉箱的重要特征结构,其宽度对开孔沉箱的消浪性能具有重要影响。针对可渗明基床开孔沉箱,赋予消浪室宽度以较大的变化范围,开展专项物模试验,研究探讨了在规则波与不规则波作用下,相对消浪室宽度对可渗明基床开孔沉箱前波高反射系数的影响规律,发现反射系数随相对消浪室宽度的增加呈减小—增大—减小的振荡特性,这一发现有别于前人的研究成果,对工程中开孔沉箱消浪室结构的优化设计具有借鉴意义。同时,对试验工况进行数值模拟和解析计算,以物模试验值为标准,评价两种方法在研究相对消浪室宽度对开孔沉箱波高反射系数影响时的规律把握能力及计算精度,对工程中应用这两种方法给出相关建议。 相似文献
13.
在理论分析的基础上利用根、茎、叶均可量化的植物模型,开展波浪水槽实验。通过改变实验水深、入射波高、植物分布密度等因素,研究不规则波在植物群传播时沿程波高衰减特性,利用快速傅里叶变换对不规则波频谱变化情况进行分析。结果表明,各植物模型消波效果较好,但很少出现植物消波的边界效应,不规则波沿植物群的波高变化情况多数时与Mendez理论曲线不一致,植物群各部分的波能衰减情况并无固定的变化规律。此外,波能衰减集中在谱峰频率处,且入射波高越大,透射波与入射波之间的谱峰值差值越大,但透射波的频谱宽度与入射波相比无明显变化。本研究可为采用近岸植物消波护岸提供一定的理论依据。 相似文献
14.
斜向入反射波分离的数值模拟研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
改进了Goda分离单向入反射波频谱的方法，给出的新方法可应用于斜向入反射波的分离，且测波仪器对的方向可按任意角度布置。当两测点在入射波方向上的投影距离为入射波半波长的倍数时，该方法会出现奇异问题。建议取两测点在入射波方向上投影距离为峰频波长的0．05－0．45倍。这时可得到较好的结果。文中采用数值模拟的方法对模拟波列进行了分离，分离出的波谱与输入的靶谱基本一致，通过分离出的入反射波频谱计算出的各波面过程与输入的各过程线也基本相近，并能较准确地给出结构的反射系数，由此说明该方法是可靠的。 相似文献
15.
A three-point method for estimating wave reflection is proposed to account for monochromatic oblique incident waves propagating over a sloping beach. The amplitudes of reflected wave and incident wave are separated using wave amplitudes measured at three fixed wave gauges with a distance. The applicability of the theory is verified by comparing the simulated results with the available theoretical, numerical and experimental results for the estimation of wave reflection. The sensitivity is also tested to provide a more accurate prediction of the reflection coefficient. 相似文献
16.
This study investigates stem waves, propagating along a vertical wall, due to obliquely incident random waves through laboratory experiments and numerical simulations. Attention is paid to the difference or similarity between the stem waves due to periodic waves and random waves, the nonlinear and linear characteristics, and the effect of wave breaking on the evolution of stem waves. The following were found from this study: as the incident angle of waves become large or the nonlinearity of the incident waves become small, the significant stem wave height, normalized by the incident significant wave height, becomes large. This tendency is the same as that generated by the Stokes waves or cnoidal waves. However, regardless of the nonlinearity of incident waves, the width of stem waves is almost the same. This is a different point between the stem waves due to periodic and random waves. The wave breaking suppresses the growth of the stem waves. 相似文献
17.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,44(2):117-139
In this paper, laboratory data for free surface displacements and velocity fields in front of a caisson breakwater covered with wave-dissipating blocks, together with wave pressures acting on the caisson, are presented and discussed. The core of the breakwater is made of a concrete caisson with a vertical front wall. The caisson is protected by a thick layer of tetrapods and is supported by a rubble mound. The breakwater is placed on the 1/25 impermeable slope. Two types of incident waves are used in the experiments: nonbreaking waves and spilling-type breaking waves. In the breaking wave case, the incident wave breaks offshore before it reaches the breakwater. The velocity data are obtained by using both the Laser Doppler Velocimeter (LDV) and the Electromagnetic Current Meter (EMCM). The raw data are analyzed using a numerical-filtering scheme so that turbulent fluctuations are separated from the phase-dependent wave motions. The vertical profiles of the time-averaged (over a wave period) turbulent velocity components at several vertical cross-sections in front of the breakwater are then analyzed. The spatial variations of the time-averaged turbulence velocity suggest that turbulence is generated inside the protective armor layer and transported into the flow region in front of the breakwater. The wave pressures on the vertical face and on the bottom of the caisson are also reported. 相似文献
18.
A theoretical model for the decay of progressive interfacial gravity waves propagating above a porous bed is developed assuming potential flow in a two-layer system with a free surface and a sharp interface. A new wave dispersion relation for two-layer flow above a quasi-static porous seabed is derived and investigated. The solutions for the nonlinear wave profile are derived using a perturbation method and the effects of geometric and flow parameters including bed characteristics, depth ratios and the densities of the two fluids are studied and discussed. Comparisons with existing analytical solutions for viscous interfacial wave attenuation over a rigid bed demonstrate the relative importance of the porous bed as a mechanism for wave decay. It is shown that the influence of a porous seabed on wave propagation is significant when the depth of the lower layer, normalised by the wavenumber, is less than π. 相似文献
19.
Hong Guangwen 《海洋学报(英文版)》1992,11(2):287-303
An exact analytic solution for wave diffraction by wedge or corner with arbitrary angle (rπ) and reflection coefficients (R0 and Rr) is presented in this paper. It is expressed in two forms-series and integral representations, corresponding recurrence relation and asymptotic expressions are also derived. The solution is simplified for some special cases of rπ. For Rr= R0,r= 1/N and Rr≠R0,r = 1/2N, the solution can be reduced to linear superpositions of incident and partially reflected waves, hence a nonlinear solution of forth order for this problem can be obtained by using the author's theory of nonlinear interaction among gravity surface waves. The given solution is related to inhomogeneous Robin boundary conditions, which include the Neumann boundary conditions usually accepted in wave diffraction theory. 相似文献
20.
The Guyana coastal system is characterized by very thick deposits of Amazon mud and high mud concentrations in its coastal waters. The mud deposits can be quite soft and may liquefy under incoming waves. Subsequently, the liquefied mud damps the incoming waves effectively. This paper presents a simple model to predict wave attenuation over soft (fluid) mud beds. This model is based on the two-layer approach by Gade [Gade, H.G., 1958, Effects of a non-rigid, impermeable bottom on plane surface waves in shallow water, Journal of Marine Research, 16 (2) 61–82.] which is implemented in the standard version of the state-of-the-art wave-prediction model SWAN. Input to the mud wave damping module consists of the extension, thickness, density and viscosity of the liquefied (fluid) mud layer. 相似文献