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1.
Beach fetch distance and aeolian sediment transport   总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3  
Jackson  & Cooper 《Sedimentology》1999,46(3):517-522
An experiment was conducted to examine the influence of fetch distance on aeolian sediment transport on a natural sand beach at Benone Strand, County Londonderry, Northern Ireland. The site consisted of a wide dissipative beach, approximately 150 m wide at low tide and 80 m wide during high tide. Surface moisture levels (and hence dry fetch distance) were dictated by both local groundwater, from a stream outlet across the beach, as well as local tidal levels. An abundant dry sediment supply was available during the experiment. High-resolution (1 Hz) measurements were made of wind speed and direction along with sediment flux. Wind velocity ranged from 2·1 to 8·1 m s–1 during the study. Second-order polynomial sand transport equations were derived from the wind speed and trap results with r 2 values of better than 0·93 for all data. When the data were sorted into velocity bins of 1 m s–1, there was no discernible relationship between fetch distance and sand transport, with a measured fetch distance range of 10–58 m available during the experiment. Results show that fetch distance is unimportant when an adequate sand supply is available. However, it is suggested that fetch may restrict the development of steady-state transport under sediment-limited conditions. Sediment availability is thus identified as a key variable in aeolian transport studies on natural beaches.  相似文献   

2.
《Sedimentology》2018,65(2):461-491
Gravelly beach ridges, which are formed solely by swash processes, may accurately reflect past wave conditions. The thickness (or height) of a gravelly beach ridge approximately equals the height of wave inundation, which is the sum of the surge and wave run‐up. Their ancient counterparts, if well‐preserved and identified, can be used to estimate palaeowave conditions, which can later be converted to palaeowind intensities based on wind–wave relationships. A technique is described for estimating the palaeowind speed in this paper, which is referred to as the gravelly beach‐ridge thickness technique. By comparing these estimates with instrumental wind records obtained at a modern lake, Qinghai Lake in north‐western China, the beach‐ridge thickness technique is shown to be useful for estimating the average wind speed (V avg). When applying this method to ancient fetch‐limited basins, five parameters are necessary: (i) the thickness of the isolated gravelly beach ridge; (ii) the average depth of the water body; (iii) the palaeofetch; (iv) the angle between the palaeowind direction and the normal to the shoreline; and (v) the particle size. This technique was applied to an ancient example in the Eocene Dongying Depression, located in eastern China. The results indicate that the average wind speed of the northern wind ranged between 2·27 m sec−1 and 8·36 m sec−1 from 45·0 Ma to 42·0 Ma, and displayed a generally decreasing trend that included early strengthening followed by weakening and later strengthening during this period. The beach‐ridge thickness technique provides a new perspective on delineating palaeowind conditions and can be applied to ancient fetch‐limited basins with gravelly beach ridges worldwide. Generally, if a water body is sufficiently large (fetch exceeding 40 km), deep (average depth exceeding 10 m) and waves (or winds) are determined to approach the shoreline with high angles (angle of incidence <35°), then the calculation errors will be small to negligible.  相似文献   

3.
Estimating palaeowind strength from beach deposits   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
Abstract The geological record of past wind conditions is well expressed in the coarse gravel, cobble and boulder beach deposits of Quaternary palaeolakes in the Great Basin of the western USA and elsewhere. This paper describes a technique, using the particle‐size distribution of beach deposits, to reconstruct palaeowind conditions when the lakes were present. The beach particle technique (BPT) is first developed using coarse beach deposits from the 1986–87 highstand of the Great Salt Lake in Utah, combined with instrumental wind records from the same time period. Next, the BPT is used to test the hypothesis that wind conditions were more severe than at present during the last highstand of Lake Lahontan (≈ 13 ka), which only lasted a decade or two at most. The largest 50 beach clasts were measured at nine beach sites located along the north, west and south sides of Antelope Island in the Great Salt Lake, all of which formed in 1986–87. At these sites, the largest clast sizes range from 10 to 28 cm (b‐axis), and fetch lengths range from 25 to 55 km. Nearshore wave height was calculated by assuming that the critical threshold velocity required to move the largest clasts represents a minimum estimate of the breaking wave velocity, which is controlled by wave height. Shoaling transformations are undertaken to estimate deep‐water wave heights and, ultimately, wind velocity. Wind estimates for the nine sites, using the BPT, range from 6·5 to 17·4 m s?1, which is in reasonable agreement with the instrumental record from Salt Lake City Airport. The same technique was applied to eight late Pleistocene beaches surrounding the Carson Sink sub‐basin of Lake Lahontan, Nevada. Using the BPT, estimated winds for the eight sites range from 9·7 to 27·1 m s?1. The strongest winds were calculated for a cobble/boulder beach with a fetch of 25 km. Instrumental wind records for the 1992–99 period indicate that wind events of 9–12 m s?1 are common and that the strongest significant wind event (≥ 9 m s?1 for ≥ 3 h) reached an average velocity of 15·5 m s?1. Based on this preliminary comparison, it appears that the late Pleistocene western Great Basin was a windier place than at present, at least for a brief time.  相似文献   

4.
An automated photographic method is described for recording short-interval changes in sand levels on a natural beach. Results of photographic technique are compared with profiles obtained by conventional surveying methods. Lapse-time photography offers a wide range of possibilities for accurate and efficient beach measurements when information in large amounts is required.  相似文献   

5.
Reliable, continuous and long-term data is needed in order to understand precisely the evolution of a beach system. Because of the advantages of real-time, low cost, simple operation, strong adaptability, high resolution and continuous data, Argus video monitoring system has developed rapidly in recent years, and its research and application fields have gradually expanded. Composition of the Argus system was briefly introduced, and the application of this system in beach research in China was described, and the accuracy of the extracted data was analysed. It was shown that the average vertical and plane distance error is 0.145 m and 11.73 m respectively, which depends on the distance from Argus observatory. Argus system has been widely used in beach research abroad, but it is still in the early stage in China. In the future, it is expected to provide more powerful and perfect technical support in coastal engineering construction evaluation, coastal hydrodynamic monitoring and bathymetry inversion, beach tourism management and research on morphodynamic evolution of estuary sand spits.  相似文献   

6.
Thresholds of aeolian sand transport: establishing suitable values   总被引:4,自引:0,他引:4  
This paper assesses the practical use and applicability of the time fraction equivalence method (TFEM; Stout & Zobeck, 1996) of calculating a wind speed threshold for sand grain entrainment in field situations. A modification of the original method is used and is applied to 1 Hz measurements of wind speed and sand transport on a beach surface. Calculated grain entrainment thresholds are tested in terms of the percentage of sand transport events that they explain. It was found that the calculated thresholds offered a poor representation of the occurrence of saltation activity, explaining only about 50% of the measured transport events. Results are discussed in terms of system response time, wind speed measurement height, undetected events and sampling period. A shear velocity threshold for grain entrainment was also calculated, but this also failed to explain a high proportion of the sand transport events. The best results (67–91% of transport events explained) were found by calculating a threshold based on time‐averaged (≈ 40 s) wind velocity measurements. The applicability of a single threshold to a natural grain population is discussed. A natural surface is likely to possess a range of thresholds varying over short time scales in response to parameters such as grain rearrangement and changes in moisture conditions. The results show that calculated thresholds based on 40 s time‐averaged data consistently explain a high proportion of the recorded sand transport events. This is because such a time‐averaged approach accounts for higher frequency variability inherent in the sand transport system.  相似文献   

7.
ABSTRACT Mixed‐sand‐and‐gravel beaches are a distinctive type of coarse‐clastic beach. Ground‐penetrating radar (GPR) and photographic records of previous excavations are used to investigate the stratigraphy and internal sedimentary structure of mixed‐beach deposits at Aldeburgh in Suffolk, south‐east England. The principles of radar stratigraphy are used to describe and interpret migrated radar reflection profiles obtained from the study site. The application of radar stratigraphy allows the delineation of both bounding surfaces (radar surfaces) and the intervening beds or bed sets (radar facies). The deposits of the main backshore berm ridge consist of seaward‐dipping bounding surfaces that are gently onlapped by seaward‐dipping bed sets. Good correspondence is observed between a sequence of beach profiles, which record development of the berm ridge on the backshore, and the berm ridge's internal structure. The beach‐profile data also indicate that backshore berm ridges at Aldeburgh owe their origin to discrete depositional episodes related to storm‐wave activity. Beach‐ridge plain deposits at the study site consist of a complex, progradational sequence of foreshore, berm‐ridge, overtop and overwash deposits. Relict berm‐ridge deposits, separated by seaward‐dipping bounding surfaces, form the main depositional element beneath the beach‐ridge plain. However, the beach ridges themselves are formed predominantly of vertically stacked overtop/overwash units, which lie above the berm‐ridge deposits. Consequently, beach‐ridge development in this progradational, mixed‐beach setting must have occurred when conditions favoured overtopping and overwashing of the upper beachface. Interannual to decadal variations in wave climate, antecedent beach morphology, shoreline progradation rate and sea level are identified as the likely controlling factors in the development of such suitable conditions.  相似文献   

8.
A rigorous test is presented of the application of sediment trend models to an intertidal beach environment characterized by bar morphology. Sediment samples were collected during low tide from a regular grid and their sediment fall velocity distributions, obtained using a settling tube, were analysed using moment analysis. The net sediment transport direction determined from beach surveys, hydrodynamic measurements, wave ripple observations and sediment transport modelling was compared with predictions by sediment trend models based on the spatial distribution of sediment parameters. It was found that the sediment transport pathways and patterns of sedimentation predicted using sediment trend models were at odds with field observations, and varied significantly depending on whether surface or sub‐surface sediment samples were used. The sediment trend models are thought to fail because, in energetic and morphologically variable beach environments, spatial patterns in sediment characteristics are mainly attributed to the presence of different hydrodynamic regions and associated morphology, rather than sediment pathways. The use of sediment trend models cannot replace the collection of morphological, hydrodynamic and sediment transport data in the field to define relationships between flows, forms and sedimentation patterns on a dynamic intertidal beach.  相似文献   

9.
Guichen Bay on the south‐east coast of South Australia faces west towards the prevailing westerly winds of the Southern Ocean. The bay is backed by a 4 km wide Holocene beach‐ridge plain with more than 100 beach ridges. The morphology of the Guichen Bay strandplain complex shows changes in the width, length, height and orientation of beach ridges. A combination of geomorphological interpretation, shallow geophysics and existing geochronology is used to interpret the Holocene fill of Guichen Bay. Six sets of beach ridges are identified from the interpretation of orthorectified aerial photographs. The ridge sets are distinguished on the basis of beach‐ridge orientation and continuity. A 2·25 km ground‐penetrating radar (GPR) profile across the beach ridges reveals the sedimentary structures and stratigraphic units. The beach ridges visible in the surface topography are a succession of stabilized foredunes that overlie progradational foreshore and upper shoreface sediments. The beach progrades show multiple truncation surfaces interpreted as storm events. The GPR profile shows that there are many more erosion surfaces in the subsurface than beach ridges on the surface. The width and dip of preserved beach progrades imaged by GPR shows that the shoreface has steepened from around 2·9° to around 7·5°. The changes in beach slope are attributed to increasing wave energy associated with beach progradation into deeper water as Guichen Bay was infilled. At the same time, the thickness of the preserved beach progrades increases slightly as the beach prograded into deeper water. Using the surface area of the ridge sets measured from the orthophotography, and the average thickness of upper shoreface, foreshore and coastal dune sands interpreted from the GPR profile, the volume of Holocene sediments within three of the six sets of beach‐ridge accretion has been calculated. Combining optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) ages and volume calculations, rates of sediment accumulation for Ridge Sets 3, 4 and 5 have been estimated. Linear rates of beach‐ridge progradation appear to decrease in the mid‐Holocene. However, the rates of sediment accumulation calculated from beach volumes have remained remarkably consistent through the mid‐ to late Holocene. This suggests that sediment supply to the beach has been constant and that the decrease in the rate of progradation is due to increasing accommodation space as the beach progrades into deeper water. Changes in beach‐ridge morphology and orientation reflect environmental factors such as changes in wave climate and wind regime.  相似文献   

10.
This paper presents a new method for coastal vulnerability assessment (CVA), which relies upon three indicators: run-up distance (as a measurement of coastal inundation), beach retreat (as a measurement of potential erosion), and beach erosion rate (obtained through the shoreline positions in different periods). The coastal vulnerability analysis of Sele Coastal Plain to storm impacts is examined along a number of beach profiles realized between 2008 and 2009. This particular study area has been selected due to its low-lying topography and high erosion propensity. Results are given in terms of an impact index, performed by combining the response due to coastal inundation, storm erosion, and beach erosion rate. This analysis is implemented on the basis of morphosedimentary characteristics of the beach, wave climate evaluation, and examination of multitemporal aerial photographs and topographic maps. The analysis of the final results evidences different coastal responses as a function of the beach width and slope, which in turn depend on the local anthropization level. The comparison of this method with a Coastal Vulnerability Index method evidences the better attitude of CVA index to take into account the different beach features to explain the experienced damages in specific stretches of the coastline considered.  相似文献   

11.
Morphologies of placer platinum group minerals (PGM) are more variable and resistant to modification during transport than placer gold grains. This study documents morphological evolution of PGM placer grains during up to 120 km of transport in beach placers after river transport from inferred sources up to 200 km inland. PGM morphological changes are calibrated with changes in morphology of associated placer gold. Most of the PGM are Pt-Fe alloy and have been fed into the beach placer system from a large river at the western end of the beaches on the south coast of New Zealand. The incoming fluvial PGM suite includes Os, Ir and Ru alloys which may have been derived from distal ophiolitic sources. More proximal sources have Ural-Alaskan affinities and these contributed cooperite and braggite, or sperrylite, locally, as well as Pt-Fe alloy grains. Some PGM may have been recycled through Cretaceous-Quaternary fluvial sediments before entering the modern placer system. Recycled placer PGM grains have also been derived from elevated Quaternary beaches near the coastline. PGM grains entering beach placers have rough surfaces, with remnants of crystal faces, and these evolve to smooth flakes with progressive long-shore transport. PGM flakes have slightly thickened rims caused by impacts by saltating sand on windy beaches, and the most distal beach placers contain flakes with incipient toroidal shapes. These PGM incipient toroids are poorly developed compared to accompanying well-formed toroidal gold that has developed in nearly all beach placers, including those on elevated Quaternary beaches. Typical PGM and gold placer grain size decreases with increasing distance of transport, from fluvial grain size of 400–1,000 to ~200 microns on the most distal beaches, accompanied by eastward loss of equant PGM grains and associated increase in proportion of flakes. Although net transport distance is ~120 km in the beach placer complex, frequent aeolian transport of grains from beach to dunes and subsequent recycling by storm surges substantially increased total transport distance in a dynamic windy tectonic environment.  相似文献   

12.
Beach ridges in macrotidal environments experience strong multi‐annual to multi‐decennial fluctuations of tidal inundation. The duration of tide flooding directly controls the duration of sediment reworking by waves, and thus the ridge dynamics. Flume modelling was used to investigate the impact of low‐frequency tidal cycles on beach ridge evolution and internal architecture. The experiment was performed using natural bioclastic sediment, constant wave parameters and low‐frequency variations of the mean water level. The morphological response of the beach ridge to water level fluctuations and the preservation of sedimentary structures were monitored by using side‐view and plan‐view photographs. Results were compared with the internal architecture of modern bioclastic beach ridges in a macrotidal chenier plain (Mont St. Michel Bay, France) surveyed with ground‐penetrating radar. The experimentally obtained morphologies and internal structures matched those observed in the field, and the three ridge development stages identified in ground‐penetrating radar profiles (early transgressive, late transgressive and progradational) were modelled successfully. Flume experiments indicate that flat bioclastic shapes play a key role in sediment sorting in the breaker zone, and in sediment layering in the beach and washover fans. Water level controls washover geometry, beach ridge evolution and internal structure. Low water levels allow beach ridge stabilization and sediment accumulation lower on tidal flats. During subsequent water level rise, accumulated sediment becomes available for deposition of new washover units and for bayward extension of the beach ridges. In the field, low‐frequency water level fluctuations are related to the 4·4 year and 18·6 year tidal cycles. Experimental results suggest that these cycles may represent the underlying factor in the evolution of the macrotidal chenier coast at the multi‐decadal to centennial time scale.  相似文献   

13.
The beach‐bar reservoir play has become an important exploration target within the Bohai Bay Basin, especially in the Boxing Sag within the Dongying Depression, where a large‐scale lacustrine beach‐bar oil pool has been discovered recently. The sedimentary characteristics, distribution patterns and formation mechanisms of beach‐bar sand bodies in the upper fourth member of the Eocene Shahejie Formation (Es4s) in the Boxing Sag were studied in detail based on seismic, well log data and core data. The Es4s in the Boxing Sag is composed of a third‐order sequence consisting of three systems tracts, i.e. a lowstand systems tract, a transgressive systems tract and a highstand systems tract. Beach‐bar sand bodies were deposited widely in the basin during the lowstand systems tract period. The sandy beach‐bars are characterized by siltstones, fine‐grained silty sandstones interbedded with thin mudstone units. The presence of well‐developed sedimentary structures, such as swash bedding, parting lineation, parallel bedding, ellipsoidal mud clasts, ripples, terrestrial plant debris and vertical burrows, suggests that beach‐bars were deposited in a relatively shallow water environment under the influence of strong hydrodynamics. Laterally, the sandy beach facies occurred as a more continuous sheet‐like body around the sandy bar in most parts of the sag. Stratigraphically, beach‐bars were distributed mainly in the lowstand systems tract and they were less well‐developed in the transgressive systems tract and highstand systems tract. Several factors were probably responsible for the occurrence of the large‐scale beach‐bars during the lowstand systems tract period, including: (i) a gentle palaeoslope and relatively weak structural activities; (ii) a shallow‐water condition with a strong hydrodynamic environment; (iii) high‐frequency oscillations of the lake level; and (iv) an abundant terrigenous clastic feeding system with multiple‐point and linear sediment sources.  相似文献   

14.
The internal structure of coastal foredunes from three sites along the north Norfolk coast has been investigated using ground‐penetrating radar (GPR), which provides a unique insight into the internal structure of these dunes that cannot be achieved by any other non‐destructive or geophysical technique. Combining geomorphological and geophysical investigations into the structure and morphology of these coastal foredunes has enabled a more accurate determination of their development and evolution. The radar profiles show the internal structures, which include foreslope accretion, trough cut and fill, roll‐over and beach deposits. Foredune ridges contain large sets of low‐angle cross‐stratification from dune foreslope accretion with trough‐shaped structures from cut and fill on the crest and rearslope. Foreslope accretion indicates sand supply from the beach to the foreslope, while troughs on the dune crest and rearslope are attributed to reworking by offshore winds. Bounding surfaces between dunes are clearly resolved and reveal the relative chronology of dune emplacement. Radar sequence boundaries within dunes have been traced below the water‐table passing into beach erosion surfaces. These are believed to result from storm activity, which erodes the upper beach and dunes. In one example, at Brancaster, a dune scarp and erosion surface may be correlated with erosion in the 1950s, possibly the 1953 storm. Results suggest that dune ridge development is intimately linked to changes in the shoreline, with dune development associated with coastal progradation while dunes are eroded during storms and, where beaches are eroding, a stable coast provides more time for dune development, resulting in higher foredune ridges. A model for coastal dune evolution is presented, which illustrates stages of dune development in response to beach evolution and sand supply. In contrast to many other coastal dune fields where the prevailing wind is onshore, on the north Norfolk coast, the prevailing wind is directed along the coast and offshore, which reduces the landward migration of sand dunes.  相似文献   

15.
Here we investigate the use of optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) for dating cobbles from the body of successive beach ridges and compare cobble surface‐derived ages to standard quartz OSL ages from sand. Between four and eight cobbles and sand samples (age control) were dated with the luminescence method, taken from the modern beach and from beach ridges on the south and north extremes of a prograding spit on the westernmost coast of Lolland, Denmark. Luminescence‐depth profiles perpendicular to the surfaces of the cobbles show that the feldspar infrared signals stimulated at 50 °C were fully reset to various depths into the cobbles prior to final deposition; as a result, the equivalent doses determined from close to the surface of such cobbles can be used to calculate burial ages. Beach‐ridge burial ages given by the average of ages of individual cobbles taken from the same site are consistent, within errors, with the ages derived from the sand samples. Cobble‐ and sand‐derived ages show that the southernmost beach ridge at Albuen was formed around 2 ka ago, indicating that this sandy spit is younger than other coastal systems in Denmark. The agreement between ages derived from clasts and from standard quartz OSL in this study confirms that, even in the absence of sandy sediments, we can reliably date sites using OSL by targeting larger clasts. In addition, the record of prior light exposure contained in the shape of the cobbles’ luminescence‐depth profile removes one of the major uncertainties (i.e. the degree of signal reset prior to burial) in the luminescence dating of high latitude sites.  相似文献   

16.
As an important reservoir type in the Bohai Bay Basin, China, lacustrine beach and bar sands which refer to the shallow water complex deposited mainly by nearshore, delta‐rim and buried hill‐related beaches as well as longshore bars were developed in a particular stage in the evolution of those faulted Cenozoic continental depressions. In the Chezhen Depression, for example, the Second Member of the Oligocene Shehejie Formation (abbr. as Es2 hereafter) formed during the rifting‐to‐thermal subsidence transitional stage. Although well developed in Es2, beach and bar sands are difficult to recognize owing to their relative thinness. The paper summarizes sedimentary characteristics of lacustrine beach and bar sands on cores and logs. Low‐angle cross‐stratification, swash stratification, as well as occasional small‐scale hummocky cross‐stratification resulted from storms can be observed in beach and bar sands. The paper distinguishes bars and beaches from each other in Es2 mainly based on the grain‐size, bed thickness, facies succession and log responses. In order to predict the distribution of beach and bars, a chrono‐stratigraphic correlation framework of Es2 in the study strata is established using a high‐resolution sequence stratigraphic approach. Es2 strata are sub‐divided into six medium‐scale cycles and the mapping of the high‐frequency cycles allows the geographic and stratigraphic distribution of both beach and bar sands to be predicted. The study shows that beach and bars are better developed in times of base‐level fall than in base‐level rise. Factors such as lake‐level fluctuation, sediment supply, palaeogeomorphology and palaeowind direction have exerted control on the formation and distribution of beach and bar sands. Finally, the genetic pattern of beach and bar sands in the Es2 unit has been constructed, which provides a foundation for the prediction of beach and bars reservoir in continental basins in general. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

17.
《Sedimentology》2018,65(3):721-744
Storm surges generated by tropical cyclones have been considered a primary process for building coarse‐sand beach ridges along the north‐eastern Queensland coast, Australia. This interpretation has led to the development of palaeotempestology based on the beach ridges. To better identify the sedimentary processes responsible for these ridges, a high‐resolution chronostratigraphic analysis of a series of ridges was carried out at Cowley Beach, Queensland, a meso‐tidal beach system with a >3 m tide range. Optically stimulated luminescence ages indicate that 10 ridges accreted seaward over the last 2500 to 2700 years. The ridge crests sit +3·5 to 5·1 m above Australian Height Datum (ca mean sea‐level). A ground‐penetrating radar profile shows two distinct radar facies, both of which are dissected by truncation surfaces. Hummocky structures in the upper facies indicate that the nucleus of the beach ridge forms as a berm at +2·5 m Australian Height Datum, equivalent to the fair‐weather swash limit during high tide. The lower facies comprises a sequence of seaward‐dipping reflections. Beach progradation thus occurs via fair‐weather‐wave accretion of sand, with erosion by storm waves resulting in a sporadic sedimentary record. The ridge deposits above the fair‐weather swash limit are primarily composed of coarse and medium sands with pumice gravels and are largely emplaced during surge events. Inundation of the ridges is more likely to occur in relation to a cyclone passing during high tide. The ridges may also include an aeolian component as cyclonic winds can transport beach sand inland, especially during low tide, and some layers above +2·5 m Australian Height Datum are finer than aeolian ripples found on the backshore. Coarse‐sand ridges at Cowley Beach are thus products of fair‐weather swash and cyclone inundation modulated by tides. Knowledge of this composite depositional process can better inform the development of robust palaeoenvironmental reconstructions from the ridges.  相似文献   

18.
BRIAN J. BLUCK 《Sedimentology》2011,58(4):994-1006
The height of accretionary gravel beaches, determined by the vertical distance between the large sphere zone at the seaward margin and the large disc zone at the landward margin, is determined mainly by tidal range. As the beach builds seaward, this height translates into thickness and so the complete thickness of gravel beach accumulations is a good indicator, in the geological record, of tidal range. Beaches with a small tidal range have the zone between the large discs and the large spheres compressed and sometimes steepened. These beaches are characterized mainly by cusps and berms, both of which yield steeply dipping, seaward building, cross‐strata. Beaches built by large, persistent waves generally have a steep profile, whereas those with small wave height appear to have a shallow profile. Cusps generally have extremely well‐sorted gravels, often in an openwork fabric and with a landward crown of coarse gravel that may grade seaward into shape‐sorted, gently dipping gravels. Berms, which may extend for hundreds of metres along the coast, comprise, in section, very well‐sorted cross‐stratified gravels that may intermittently build seaward for a distance >15 m. Extensive selection pavements typify beaches with a high tidal range and comprise sheets of gravel which are well‐sorted and dip at comparatively low angles towards the sea. These selection pavements form beds that, in section, can be >50 m in seaward length; they grow from clasts, supplied to them from swash or backwash, and which are selected by the fabric of the existing sheet. In some cases, the selection pavements can be very mature having only a specific clast shape and size remaining. Total preservation of the beach sequence in the geological record is more likely to take place in areas of rapid deposition of sediments, such as the marine fringes to a fan delta.  相似文献   

19.
The Kregnes “moraine” ridge in Gauldalen, a north-trending valley south of Trondheim, is a Gilbert-type delta formed at a Younger Dryas glacier terminus. The gravelly delta consists of a north-dipping foreset, 150 m thick, comprised of turbidites, debrisflow beds and debrisfall deposits. The bottomset consists of turbiditic sand and mud layers. The topset, 2-3 m thick, is a braided-river alluvium with local beach deposits, matching the marine limit of 175 m a.s.l. The fjord-wide delta front had an extent of 3 km and prograded over a distance of 1.5 km, in probably less than 100 years, with the delta toe climbing by 50 m against the basin's rapidly aggrading muddy floor. The delta advanced through the alternating episodes of its toe aggradation and progradation, related to the increases and decreases of the delta-slope gradient. Slope steepening led to intense sediment sloughing by chutes and occasional large-scale failures. The fjord's wave fetch was low and the wave base no deeper than 1.5-2 m, but strong storm waves occasionally reworked the delta front to a depth of 6 m. Glacitectonic deformation was limited to the system's upfjord end. Allostratigraphic analysis suggests that the proglacial system commenced its development as an ice-contact submarine fan that was deformed, quickly aggraded to the sea surface and turned into an ice-contact delta, which further evolved into the large glaciofluvial delta. The Kregnes ridge represents an episode of the ice-front re-advance due to climatic deterioration and is tentatively correlated with the Hoklingen substage.  相似文献   

20.
Surf smelt Hypomesus pretiosus are an important part of the Salish Sea food web and obligate beach spawners, yet little is known about the spatiotemporal distribution of spawning and beach characteristics related to spawning success. We counted smelt eggs at 51 sites around Camano Island, Puget Sound, Washington every 2?weeks for 1?year and at 13 of those 51 sites each month in the following year. At each site, we measured beach characteristics hypothesized to affect spawning habitat suitability as measured by egg abundance and mortality. Eggs were collected at 45 sites and pooled by month for analyses. Few sites (N?=?10, 19.6?%) contributed 87?% of total eggs and 89?% of all live eggs collected. Mean total egg counts at sites were higher (p?<?0.019) in Jul?CSep (1,790.7, SE?=?829.5) than in Jan?CMar (26.1, SE?=?10.2). Principal component and regression analyses suggested that aspect, fetch, solar radiation, and beach temperature predicted egg abundance but not mortality. Because a small proportion of sites appear to support most spawning activity, a conclusion consistent with year?2 egg counts, impacts to relatively few beaches could greatly affect surf smelt production.  相似文献   

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