Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves composing wave groups     

Yong-Sik Cho  Jae-Sang Jung   《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(1):82-92

Numerical analyses for the Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves associated long waves due to sinusoidally varying seabeds are performed by using a set of coupled ordinary differential equations derived from the Boussinesq equations. The Boussinesq equations are firstly approximated with the Fourier decomposition. The coupled governing equations are then derived and used to simulate evolution of both short and long wave components. It is also found that wave groups are generated by two carrier waves with slightly different frequencies. The wave energy of the initial wave components is transferred to other harmonic components during propagation over a long distance. Evolution and reflection of both short and long waves were largely affected by nonlinearity.  相似文献   

Wave Reflection Caused by Wave Overtopping and Sloping Top of Spructure     

LI  Yanbao 《中国海洋工程》2002,16(2):211-218

In this paper, the theoretical analysis and experimental studies are employed to investigate the reflection characteris-tics of partial standing waves caused by wave overtopping and sloping top of structures. Based on the principle of conser-vation of wave energy flux, the third-order Stokes wave theory is used to formulate the reflection coefficient at wave overtopping; the calculation results are regressed into an applied expression. A series of experiments of wave reflection for a vertical-wall structure with chamfered and overhanging upper sections are carried out to investigate the influence of top slope on wave reflection. The regularity of variation of wave reflection in this case is analysed based on the experimental results.  相似文献   

Hilbert Transferin Applied to Separation of Waves     

孙鹤泉  王永学  彭静萍 《中国海洋工程》2002,(2)

The analytical method (AM) for separation of composite waves is presented based on the Hilbert transform. It is ap-plicable to both regular and irregular trains of waves. The wave data series measured with two wave gauges in the experi-ments are separated into two series of incident and reflected waves. Then, the reflection coefficient can be easily ob-tained. The arrival of reflected waves can also be detected for improveraent of the accuracy of the reflection coefficient. The reflection performance of the physical model can be estimated exactly without calculation of wave height and phase difference. Numerical samples developed to test the method are proved to be accurate. Physical experiments are conduct-ed and compared with Goda s method and satisfactory results are obtained.  相似文献   

Ocean Waves: Half-a-Century of Discovery   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Paul H. LeBlond 《Journal of Oceanography》2002,58(1):3-9

While the nature of most ocean waves has long been known and their basic physics understood since the nineteenth century, intense study of ocean waves during the second half of the twentieth century has taken the subject from the realm of mathematical exercises to that of practical engineering. Modern understanding of the generation, propagation and interactions of ocean waves with each other and with oceanic features has advanced to a quantitative level offering predictive capacity. This paper presents a brief qualitative review of advances in knowledge of sound waves, wind waves, tsunamis, tides, internal waves and long-period vorticity waves. The review is aimed at non-specialists who may benefit from an overview of the current state of the subject and access to a bibliography of general-interest references. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.  相似文献   

南麂海域台风影响过程中的波浪特征     

黄树生 《海洋湖沼通报》1996,(1):1-8

根据１９８３－１９８９年南麂海洋站在台风影响过程中的实测风和浪资料，分析了该海域的波浪特征。结果表明，这个海域的台风波浪通常是混合浪，在台风影响过程中出现的最大值波高，既有较大波陡的风浪，也有波陡较小的清浪；各向波高的均值变化不大，各向最大波高却有较大幅度的差距；本区的台风浪以４级波高占优，风浪以ＮＮＥ向、涌浪以Ｅ向为常浪向；波高为４级的风浪和涌浪，其周期分别在４．０－４．９Ｓ和７．０－７．９Ｓ之  相似文献   

环台湾岛海域半日潮波特征的三维模拟   总被引：10，自引：0，他引：10  

沙文钰  吕新刚  陈希  张文静 《海洋学报》2001,23(4):31-40

用1997版POM海洋模式,首次应用于环台湾岛海域的潮波数值研究.得到该海域的半日潮波主要为23°N以南西太平洋传来的胁振潮.影响台湾海峡的半日潮波分别由海峡南北口传入的两支潮波,且北支强于南支.福建沿岸湄州湾-兴化湾为最强潮区,其M₂分潮最大振幅可达240cm.最强潮流区位于澎湖水道,M₂分潮最大潮流达196cm/s.环台湾岛海域潮波潮流水平结构上除海峡北部原有一个圆流点外,还发现另外存在4个新的圆流点.潮流垂直结构上主要为右偏,接近底层处为左偏.  相似文献   

9914号(Dan)台风浪的后报试验研究   总被引：5，自引：2，他引：5  

王彩欣  张占海  王可光 《海洋通报》2003,22(1):9-16

利用WAM第三代海浪模式的第四版本(WAMC4)对40a来造成福建沿海灾害最严重的9914号台风海浪过程进行了后报试验，并与近岸常规观测和卫星高度计有效波高资料进行了比较。与常规观测站的比较结果表明，WAMC4能较好地再现海浪的发展过程。后报结果与TOPEX/POSEIDON和ERS-2卫星观测资料的对比研究表明，风速的后报结果与卫星观测有较好的一致性，但海浪的后报比卫星高度计反演的有效波高整体略偏低。  相似文献   

Numerical modeling of nonlinear water waves over heterogeneous porous beds   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Eric C. Cruz  Qin Chen   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(8-9):1303-1321

The transformation of nonlinear water waves over porous beds is studied by applying a numerical model based on Chen's [2006. Fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations for waves and currents over porous beds. Journal of Engineering Mechanics, 132:2, 220–230] Boussinesq-type equations for highly nonlinear waves on permeable beds. The numerical model uses a high-order time-marching solution and fourth-order finite-difference schemes for discretization of first-order spatial derivatives to obtain a computational accuracy consistent with the model equations. By forcing the wave celerity and spatial porous-damping rate of the linearized model to match the exact linear theory for horizontal porous bed over a prescribed range of relative depths, the values of the model parameters are optimally determined. Numerical simulations of the damped wave propagation over finite-thickness porous layer demonstrate the accuracy of both the numerical model and governing equations, which have been shown by prior theoretical analyses to be accurate for both nominal and thick porous layers. These simulations also elucidate on the significance of the higher-order porous-damping terms and the influence of the hydraulic parameters. Application of the model to the simulation of the wave field around a laboratory-scale submerged porous mound provides a measure of its capability, as well as useful insight into the scaling of the porous-resistance coefficients. For application to heterogeneous porous beds, the assumption of weak spatial variation of the porous resistance is examined using truncated forms of the governing equations. The results indicate that the complete set of Boussinesq-type equations is applicable to porous beds of nonhomogeneous makeup.  相似文献   

Heat flow and crustal thermal structure in the Late Archaean Closepet Granite batholith,south India     

Sukanta Roy  Labani Ray  Anurup Bhattacharya  R. Srinivasan 《International Journal of Earth Sciences》2008,97(2):245-256

The Late Archaean Closepet Granite batholith in south India is exposed at different crustal levels grading from greenschist facies in the north through amphibolite and granulite facies in the south along a ∼400 km long segment in the Dharwar craton. Two areas, Pavagada and Magadi, located in the Main Mass of the batholith, best represent the granitoid of the greenschist and amphibolite facies crustal levels respectively. Heat flow estimates of 38 mW m⁻² from Pavagada and 25 mW m⁻² from Magadi have been obtained through measurements in deep (430 and 445 m) and carefully sited boreholes. Measurements made in four boreholes of opportunity in Pavagada area yield a mean heat flow of 39 ± 4 (s.d.) mW m⁻², which is in good agreement with the estimate from deep borehole. The study, therefore, demonstrates a clear-cut heat flow variation concomitant with the crustal levels exposed in the two areas. The mean heat production estimates for the greenschist facies and amphibolite facies layers constituting the Main Mass of the batholith are 2.9 and 1.8 μW m⁻³, respectively. The enhanced heat flow in the Pavagada area is consistent with the occurrence of a radioelement-enriched 2-km-thick greenschist facies layer granitoid overlying the granitoid of the amphibolite facies layer which is twice as thick as represented in the Magadi area. The crustal heat production models indicate similar mantle heat flow estimates in the range 12–14 mW m⁻², consistent with the other parts of the greenstone-granite-gneiss terrain of the Dharwar craton.  相似文献   

High heat flow anomalies on an old oceanic plate observed seaward of the Japan Trench     

Makoto Yamano  Masataka Kinoshita  Shusaku Goto 《International Journal of Earth Sciences》2008,97(2):345-352

Thirty-three new measurements on the seaward slope and outer rise of the Japan Trench along a parallel of 38°45′N revealed the existence of high heat flow anomalies on the subducting Pacific plate, where the seafloor age is about 135 m.y.. The most prominent anomaly with the highest value of 114 mW/m² is associated with a small mound on the outer rise, which was reported to be a kind of mud volcano. On the seaward slope of the trench, heat flow is variable: high (70–90 mW/m²) at some locations and normal for the seafloor age (about 50 mW/m²) at others. The spatial variation of heat flow may be related to development of normal faults and horst/graben structures due to bending of the Pacific plate before subduction, with fluid flow along the fault zones enhancing the vertical heat transfer. Possible heat sources of the high heat flow anomalies are intra-plate volcanism in the last several million years like that discovered recently on the Pacific plate east of the Japan Trench.  相似文献