Examination of empirical formulas for wave shoaling and breaking on steep slopes   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Ching-Piao Tsai  Hong-Bin Chen  Hwung-Hweng Hwung  Ming-Jen Huang 《Ocean Engineering》2005,32(3-4):469-483

Estimation of the wave height transformation of shoaling and breaking is essential for the nearshore hydrodynamics and the design of coastal structures. Many empirical formulas have been well recognized to the wave height transformation, but most of them were only applicable for gentle slopes. This paper reports the experimental results of wave shoaling and breaking over the steep slopes to examine the applicability of the previous empirical formulas. Two steep bottom slopes of 1/3 and 1/5, and one gentle slope of 1/10 were conducted in the present experiments. Experimental results show that the shoaling distance of steep slopes become short and the surface waves may be partially reflected from the steep bottom, thus the estimation of wave shoaling using the well-known previous formula did not conform completely to the experimental results. The previous empirical formulas for the wave breaking criteria were also examined, and the modified equations to the steep beaches were proposed in this work. A numerical model was finally adopted to calculate the wave height transformation in the surf zone by introducing the modified breaking index.  相似文献   

Geodynamic Evolution of the Eastern Segment of the Azores-Gibraltar Zone: The Gorringe Bank and the Gulf of Cadiz Region     

Tortella  D.  Torne  M.  Pérez-Estáun  A. 《Marine Geophysical Researches》1997,19(3):211-230

Detailed structural interpretation of the recently acquired deep seismic multichannel profiles along the Iberian Atlantic Margins (IAM Project) provides new results on the geodynamic evolution of the eastern part of the Azores-Gibraltar plate boundary. Thrusting and folding of the oceanic basement and of Mesozoic and Cenozoic sedimentary cover of the Gorringe Bank region are consistent with the N–S convergence of Iberia and Africa. Compressive structures in the Gorringe Bank region are spread over a wide area. Deformation under compression took place mainly in Tertiary times, as is evidenced by a basal unconformity and several discontinuities in Tertiary sediments, although some deformation has also been recorded in Quaternary sediments. The compressive structures in the Gulf of Cadiz are E–W oriented thrusts, folds and related diapiric structures. N–S oriented transpressive deformation is likely to occur in the western Portuguese platform. There is no continuity of structures from the oceanic to the continental domain, suggesting that deformation transfers from one side to the other through a transcurrent fault zone. The fault contact between the two domains is located in the ocean-continent transition zone.  相似文献   

Dereverberation of marine reflection seismic data by a spatial combination of predictive deconvolution and velocity filtering     

C. Samson  G. F. West 《Marine Geophysical Researches》1995,17(1):1-15

Contamination of seismic reflection records at early times by first-order water reverberations can be especially severe during survey operations over hard and flat sea floors on the continental shelf or in lake environments. A new dereverberation scheme based on two classical techniques — predictive deconvolution and velocity filtering — has been developed to address this problem. The techniques are combined spatially to take advantage of their complementary offset- and time-dependent properties. Stage I of the scheme consists of applying predictive deconvolution at short offset. The data are previously conditioned by a normal moveout correction with the water velocity which restores the periodicity of the reverberations in the offset-time plane and enhances the performance of deconvolution. Stage II of the scheme involves velocity filtering in the common-midpoint domain which is particularly effective at long offset where the moveout difference between primary reflections and reverberations is largest. The dereverberation scheme is well suited for the initial processing of large volumes of data due to the general availability of cost-effective deconvolution and velocity filtering algorithms in seismic processing software packages. Practical implementation issues are illustrated by a field example from the GLIMPCE survey in Lake Superior.Lithoprobe Publication No. 475.  相似文献   

Wave reflection from partially perforated-wall caisson breakwater   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

Kyung-Duck Suh  Jae Kil Park  Woo Sun Park   《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(2):264-280

In 1995, Suh and Park developed a numerical model that computes the reflection of regular waves from a fully perforated-wall caisson breakwater. This paper describes how to apply this model to a partially perforated-wall caisson and irregular waves. To examine the performance of the model, existing experimental data are used for regular waves, while a laboratory experiment is conducted in this study for irregular waves. The numerical model based on a linear wave theory tends to over-predict the reflection coefficient of regular waves as the wave nonlinearity increases, but such an over-prediction is not observed in the case of irregular waves. For both regular and irregular waves, the numerical model slightly over- and under-predicts the reflection coefficients at larger and smaller values, respectively, because the model neglects the evanescent waves near the breakwater.  相似文献   

Optical water type discrimination and tuning remote sensing band-ratio algorithms: Application to retrieval of chlorophyll and K_d(490) in the Irish and Celtic Seas     

David McKee  Alex Cunningham  Agnes Dudek 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2007,73(3-4):827-834

This paper assesses the feasibility of applying remote sensing algorithms based on blue/green reflectance ratios to Case 2 waters. Two algorithms from the SeaDAS (NASA) image processing package, OC4v4 for surface chlorophyll concentration, Chl, and K(490) for the attenuation coefficient for downward irradiance at 490 nm, K_d(490), were investigated using an extensive set of observations from the Irish and Celtic Seas. In situ data from a profiling radiometer were used as inputs for the algorithms to avoid uncertainties in atmospheric correction procedures, and direct measurements of Chl and K_d490 and were used for validation purposes. The standard versions of the algorithms performed poorly: OC4v4 generally overestimated Chl (with a very low coefficient of determination), and K(490) progressively underestimated K_d490 for values greater than 0.3 m⁻¹. A two-step procedure for level 2 product generation was therefore devised in which the numerical coefficients of OC4v4 and K(490) were tuned for the two optical water types known to occur most frequently in this region (McKee, D., Cunningham, A., 2006. Identification and characterisation of two optical water types in the Irish Sea from in situ inherent optical properties and seawater constituents. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 68, 305–316) by statistical regression on a data set of 102 stations from the Irish and Celtic Seas. The water types were distinguished by the magnitude of their normalised water leaving radiance signals at 665 nm, nL_w(665), and appropriate versions of the tuned algorithms applied to each water type. When this procedure was tested on an independent data set of 19 stations from the Bristol Channel, Chl values were recovered with an RMS error of 0.36 mg m⁻³ and K_d(490) values with an RMS error of 0.095 m⁻¹. The identification of water types from water-leaving radiance signals, and the application of band-ratio algorithms tuned for specific water types, may therefore provide a simple means of improving the quality of remote sensing products in optically complex shelf seas.  相似文献   

Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves composing wave groups     

Yong-Sik Cho  Jae-Sang Jung   《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(1):82-92

Numerical analyses for the Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves associated long waves due to sinusoidally varying seabeds are performed by using a set of coupled ordinary differential equations derived from the Boussinesq equations. The Boussinesq equations are firstly approximated with the Fourier decomposition. The coupled governing equations are then derived and used to simulate evolution of both short and long wave components. It is also found that wave groups are generated by two carrier waves with slightly different frequencies. The wave energy of the initial wave components is transferred to other harmonic components during propagation over a long distance. Evolution and reflection of both short and long waves were largely affected by nonlinearity.  相似文献   

Wave Reflection Caused by Wave Overtopping and Sloping Top of Spructure     

LI  Yanbao 《中国海洋工程》2002,16(2):211-218

In this paper, the theoretical analysis and experimental studies are employed to investigate the reflection characteris-tics of partial standing waves caused by wave overtopping and sloping top of structures. Based on the principle of conser-vation of wave energy flux, the third-order Stokes wave theory is used to formulate the reflection coefficient at wave overtopping; the calculation results are regressed into an applied expression. A series of experiments of wave reflection for a vertical-wall structure with chamfered and overhanging upper sections are carried out to investigate the influence of top slope on wave reflection. The regularity of variation of wave reflection in this case is analysed based on the experimental results.  相似文献   

台湾海峡1997年8月至1999年8月份海水光学衰减系数的分布特征   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

张彩云  商少平  胡建宇  陈照章 《台湾海峡》2001,20(1):127-131

利用1997－1999年间8月份台湾海峡的实测资料，分析了海水光学衰减系数的垂直分布类型、水平分布特征。结果表明，台湾海峡海水光学衰减系数的垂直分布类型主要分为5种，大部分随深度而递增；光学衰减系数等值线基本与岸线平行，水平梯度自北向南、自近岸向外海递减，近岸等值线密集，而外海稀疏；影响台湾海峡光学衰减系数的主要因素是县浮物质（主要含浮游生物）和海流运动。  相似文献   

Hilbert Transferin Applied to Separation of Waves     

孙鹤泉  王永学  彭静萍 《中国海洋工程》2002,(2)

The analytical method (AM) for separation of composite waves is presented based on the Hilbert transform. It is ap-plicable to both regular and irregular trains of waves. The wave data series measured with two wave gauges in the experi-ments are separated into two series of incident and reflected waves. Then, the reflection coefficient can be easily ob-tained. The arrival of reflected waves can also be detected for improveraent of the accuracy of the reflection coefficient. The reflection performance of the physical model can be estimated exactly without calculation of wave height and phase difference. Numerical samples developed to test the method are proved to be accurate. Physical experiments are conduct-ed and compared with Goda s method and satisfactory results are obtained.  相似文献   

广东红海湾、珠江口及电白—阳江近海第四纪沉积     

康长生  杨胜明  廖志良 《热带海洋学报》1997,(1)

根据物探和钻探资料，研究区内第四纪沉积物可分为两部分，下部地震反射结构复杂，斜层理发育，粒度较粗，为晚更新世产物；上部的地震反射结构简单，呈水平状或近水平状结构，粒度较细，为全新世沉积。  相似文献