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1.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,38(2):91-113
The present study aims at investigating the non-linear triad interaction process affecting shoaling surface gravity wave fields. The triad interaction phenomenon being enhanced towards the shore, the domain of study is extended up to the surf zone. Three 1D non-linear wave models (one phase-resolving and two phase-averaged spectral models) have been implemented and compared to laboratory experiments performed in a wave flume. This set of models includes two existing models and a new one which has been developed in the frame of this work. The models include a breaking dissipation term based on the parametrical model of Battjes and Janssen [Battjes, J.A., Janssen, P.A.E.M., 1978. Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves. Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng. (ASCE), Vol. 1, pp. 569–587.]. The investigations concern the evolution of variance spectra, spectral significant wave height and mean period over a barred bathymetric profile. In addition, the performances of the different models are analysed by computing the spectral source term for triad interactions. We found that all models are able to reproduce the main features of non-linear mechanisms affecting a wave field in the near-shore zone. The phase-resolving model gives the most accurate results for non-breaking situations. It correctly reproduces the non-linear coupling effect in decreasing water depths due to wave–wave interactions, as well as the harmonic release after a bar. However, the model is computationally time-consuming. The CPU time is considerably reduced using phase-averaged models. They give satisfactorily results on harmonic generation. However, they do not reproduce the release of harmonics as water depth increases. In breaking conditions, the variance spectra undergo significant changes under the combined effects of non-linear energy transfers and dissipation. The depth-induced wave breaking model included in the equations provides a good estimate of the energy decay in the surf zone.  相似文献   

2.
Dynamics of western boundary currents in the subtropical and subpolar gyres are studied as a source-sink flow of barotropic fluid by means of numerical integration of the time-dependent non-linear vorticity equation. The bottom topography consists of a continental shelf of uniform slope (120 km wide) parallel to the straight western coast and a flat bottom of uniform depth. The steady solution in the case of low Reynolds number (Re≦100) shows the vorticity balance of the western boundary current between theβ-, diffusion-, and bottom relief terms. The cuspidated flow of the western boundary current in the subpolar gyre is observed as a compensating flow for the subtropical western boundary current separating from the western coast. In the case of Re=350, the zonal current separating from the coast meanders with the wave length of the stationary Rossby waves. It is shown that in the present model the separation of the boundary current is controlled by the planetary vorticity (f) of the fluid particle in the boundary flow, with which the same particle flows out the eastern wall at the corresponding latitude. The decrease of the efflux width increases the intensity of the non-linear overshooting of the boundary current separating from the western coast.  相似文献   

3.
文凡  高志一 《海洋与湖沼》2007,38(5):394-404
风浪宏观特征量是描述风浪场特征的重要物理量。作者基于风浪有停留在混乱运动状态的趋势的性质对风浪场特征量间的关系进行了研究。主频波频率附近的波动自风摄取能量,风浪吸收的能量通过非线性相互作用在谱中重新分配。谱中能量的重新分配产生多尺度波动,这导致风浪波面的混乱运动(风浪处于混乱运动状态)。在稳定状态,风浪运动最为混乱。当风浪状态偏离最混乱运动状态,谱中非线性相互作用引起的能量重新分配将使风浪回到该状态。基于线性海浪理论导出风浪场特征量间的关系。导出的关系与观测结果进行了对比,发现理论结果与观测结果很好地符合。风浪场宏观特征量间存在固有关系。尽管目前风浪场特征量关系的观测结果存在差异,但本文中证明,所导出的理论关系与实验结果很好地符合。  相似文献   

4.
Methods of studying the dynamics of wave disturbances in st;ratified shear flows of an ideal incompressible fluid are considered. The equations governing the motions of interest represent Hamilton equations and are derived by writing the velocity field in terms of Clebsch potentials. Equations written in terms of semi-Lagrangian variables are integrodifferential equations, which make it possible to consider both continuous and discontinuous solutions, as well as the cases where the parameters of the undisturbed medium are step functions. Two dynamic systems are presented. The first, canonical system of equations is most suitable for describing gravity waves in a shear flow in the case where the undisturbed medium is characterized by sharp gradients of density and flow velocity. The simplest model in which disturbances obey this system of equations is the well-known Kelvin-Helmholtz model. The second dynamic system describes, in particular, gravity-shear waves and, in the case of a homogeneous medium, shear waves in a two-dimensional flow. This system is most suitable for studying the dynamics of disturbances in models with sharp gradients of vorticity. On the basis of the approach developed in this study, the problem of the dynamics of disturbances in a flow with a continuous distribution of vorticity in a finite-thickness layer is solved. If the thickness of this layer is small compared to the characteristic wavelength and the gradient of the undisturbed vorticity in this layer is large, the solution has the form of a mode whose frequency is close to the frequency of the shear wave on a vorticity jump that would be obtained by letting the layer’s thickness approach zero. The results obtained allow, in particular, the estimation of the range of validity of finite-layer approximations for models with smooth profiles of flow and density. In addition, these results can be interpreted as the basis for the development of nonlinear aspects of the theory of hydrodynamic stability.  相似文献   

5.
The internal flow structure of wind waves in a wind-wave tunnel was investigated on the bases of the measured vorticity distributions, streamline patterns, internal pressure fields, and stress distributions at the water surface for some waves in the field. In part I the experimental method and the internal vorticity structure relative to the individual wave crests are described. The measured vorticity distributions of distinct waves (waves with waveheight comparable with or larger than that of significant wavesH 1/3) in the field indicate that the surface vorticity layer is extraordinarily thickened near the crest, and the vorticity near the water surface shows a particularly large value below the crest. The flow near the crest of distinct waves is found to be in excess of the phase speed in a very thin surface layer, and the tangential stress distribution has a dominant peak near the crest. It is argued that the occurrence of the region of high vorticity in distinct waves is associated with the local generation of vorticity near the crest by tangential stress which attains a peak, under the presence of excess flow.  相似文献   

6.
Nonlinear three-wave interactions of Stokes edge waves propagating both in one direction and in opposite directions along a uniformly sloping shelf are considered. In the cases when only the lowest four modes participate in interaction, the synchronism conditions are determined and interaction coefficients are calculated. It is shown that the interaction coefficients of unidirectional edge-wave modes can vanish for certain triads. The spatiotemporal dynamics of a triad of edge waves is investigated. In addition, expressions are given for the resonance interaction coefficients of edge waves over the bottom of an arbitrary profile.  相似文献   

7.
Characteristic features of the internal flow field of short wind waves are described mainly on the basis of streamline patterns measured for four different cases of individual wave. In some waves a distinct high vorticity region, with flow in excess of the phase speed in the surface thin layer, is formed near the crest as shown in Part I of this study, but the streamlines are found to remain quite regular even very near the water surface. The characteristics of flow in the high vorticity region are investigated, and it is argued that the high vorticity region is not supported steadily in individual waves but that growth and attenuation in individual waves repeats systematically, without no severe wave breaking. Below the surface vorticity layer a quite regular wave motion dominates. However, this wave motion is strongly affected by the presence of the high vorticity region. By comparing the measured streamline profiles with those predicted from wave profiles by the use of a water-wave theory, it is found that the flow of the wind waves studied cannot be predicted, even approximately, from the surface displacements, in contrast to the case of pure irrotational water waves.  相似文献   

8.
We study nonlinear three-wave interactions between edge waves propagating in the same direction over the shelf step. The conditions of synchronism are determined and the coefficient of interaction is computed for the cases where the waves of the five lowest modes participate in the interaction. The space-time dynamics is studied by analyzing, as an example, a single triad of edge waves. The possibility of interaction of edge waves in the regions with actual topography is demonstrated. __________ Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 3, pp. 3–19, May–June, 2008.  相似文献   

9.
The equations of dynamics of eddy—wave disturbances of two-dimensional stratified flows in an ideal incompressible fluid that are written in a Hamiltonian form are used to study the resonant interaction of waves of discrete and continuous spectra. A gravity—shear wave generated at a jump of the density and vorticity of the undisturbed flow and a wave generated at a weak vorticity jump, which is similar to a wave of a continuous spectrum, participate in the interaction. The equations are written in terms of normal variables to obtain the system of evolution equations for the amplitudes of the interacting waves. The stability condition for eddy—wave disturbances is derived within the framework of the linear theory. It is shown that a cubic nonlinearity may lead to the stabilization of unstable disturbances if the coefficient of the nonlinear term is positive.  相似文献   

10.
The interactions of cnoidal waves with a submerged quartercircular breakwater are investigated by a Reynolds-Averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) flow solver with a Volume of Fluid (VOF) surface capturing scheme (RANS-VOF) model. The vertical variation of the instantaneous velocity indicates that flow separation occurs at the boundary layer near the breakwater. The temporal evolution of the velocity and vorticity fields demonstrates vortex generation and shedding around the submerged quartercircular breakwater due to the flow separation. An empirical relationship between the vortex intensity and a few hydrodynamic parameters is proposed based on parametric analysis. In addition, the instantaneous and time-averaged vorticity fields reveal a pair of vortices of opposite signs at the breakwater which are expected to have significant effect on sediment entrainment, suspension, and transportation, therefore, scour on the leeside of the breakwater.  相似文献   

11.
Inviscid three-dimensional free surface wave motions are simulated using a novel quadratic higher order boundary element model (HOBEM) based on potential theory for irrotational, incompressible fluid flow in an infinite water-depth. The free surface boundary conditions are fully non-linear. Based on the use of images, a channel Green function is developed and applied to the present model so that two lateral surfaces of an infinite-depth wave tank can be excluded from the calculation domain. In order to generate incident waves and dissipate outgoing waves, a non-reflective wave generator, composed of a series of vertically aligned point sources in the computational domain, is used in conjunction with upstream and downstream damping layers. Numerical experiments are carried out, with linear and fully non-linear, regular and focused waves. It can be seen from the results that the present approach is effective in generating a specified wave profile in an infinite water-depth without reflection at the open boundaries, and fully non-linear numerical simulations compare well with theoretical solutions. The present numerical technique is aimed at efficient modelling of the non-linear wave interactions with ocean structures in deep water.  相似文献   

12.
Two methods are presented for analysis of second order waves in a wave tank. The first method is by placing three wave probes in a line parallel to the line of propagation of long-crested irregular waves. By correlation analysis the spectra of set-down, parasitic waves and reflected waves of the second order are separated. The second method is to apply the square-law operation as proposed by Bendat and Piersol, to the spectral analysis of this particular non-linear system. The results of the two methods seem to agree reasonably well. A practical application of the present analysis is to analyse low frequency responses of a moored structure in a wave tank, where it is recognized that simulation of second order waves and the structure's responses are often accompanied by parasitic second order waves and reflected waves in the tank. These adulterations may be regarded as noises, and the proper information regarding non-linear second order responses extracted from the raw output.  相似文献   

13.
A kinetic equation for the spectrum of random surface gravity waves, describing the spectral energy transfer over the spectrum, due to the combined effects of four- and five-wave weakly non-linear interactions has been developed. Equation kernels are given in the explicit form for a fluid of finite depth. It is noted that five-wave interactions break the wave conservation law inherent to the four-wave kinetic equation.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.  相似文献   

14.
Observations suggest that the large-scale tropical atmospheric circulations, associated with intraseasonal variabilties, are dominated more by the vorticity than the divergence. The present paper examines the consistency of the above observations with linear equatorial wave theories. Both free and forced linear waves are considered. The free equatorial waves are classified into two major categories: (1) the Rossby waves, strongly dominated by vorticity and (2) the inertial-gravity waves, relatively dominated by the divergence. Both the Kelvin and the mixed-Rossby gravity waves are intermediate of these two major categories.
In the forced case, the wave response is predominantly inertial-gravity wave-like for periods less than 5 d, thus predominantly divergent. On the other hand, for forcing with the longer periods, the wave response closely following free Rossby-wave structures, asymptotically approaches to a non-divergent state. The asymptotic tendency for non-divergence is found to be much stronger than observed. The difference is so stark that, notably, the tropical intraseasonal variability cannot be consistent with linear equatorial waves theories.  相似文献   

15.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(5-6):463-485
A Navier–Stokes solver with a free surface model is used for simulating wave breaking, undertow, and turbulence in breaking waves. The free surface model is based on the Volume of Fluid concept. Turbulence scales larger than the grid scale are simulated directly while turbulence scales smaller than the grid scale are represented by a sub-grid scale model. Two different approaches for the sub-grid scale model have been applied, which are the Smagorinsky model and a model based on a k-equation for the sub-grid scale turbulence. The waves approach the shore in shore-normal direction and break on a plane constant sloping beach. Periodic spilling and plunging breakers are simulated for 20 and 16 wave periods, respectively. The set-up, undertow, and turbulence levels are compared to experimental results. Despite the rather coarse resolution of the computational domain, satisfactory results for the wave height decay and undertow have been obtained. However, the turbulence levels are over-predicted when using the standard values of the model parameters and a complete answer to this problem has not been found. Furthermore, the evolution of vorticity over the wave period has been studied. It shows that at the initial breaking point vorticity is generated around the vertical as well as around the transverse axis. Later vorticity around the longitudinal axis (offshore–onshore direction) is generated, probably through deformation of vorticity around the other axis.  相似文献   

16.
Surface water wave elevations and kinematics from four unidirectional irregular wave trains, with a Pierson and Moskowitz or JONSWAP random wave spectrum, were measured in the laboratory using resistance wave probes and a laser Doppler anemometer. The wave elevation data, velocity time series, extreme (largest) wave horizontal velocity profiles and extreme wave acceleration fields are compared with the predictions of a new wave kinematics model, named the hybrid wave model. Irregular waves are commonly viewed as the summation of many linear wave components of different frequencies, but more accurate predictions of downstream surface elevations (wave evolution) and wave kinematics are attained by considering the non-linear interactions among wave components. The hybrid wave model incorporates these non-linear wave component interactions, and its wave evolution predictions and kinematics estimates are compared with laboratory measurements in this study. Linear random wave theory, Wheeler stretching and linear extrapolation wave kinematic prediction techniques are also compared. Comparisons between measurements and hybrid wave model estimates demonstrate its improved capability to predict velocity and acceleration fields and wave evolution in two-dimensional irregular waves.  相似文献   

17.
The quasi-geostrophic dynamics of disturbances of a flow with a vertical shear is described by a transfer equation for potential vorticity. Wave solutions of this equation are represented by edge baroclinic waves (modes in a discrete spectrum) and singular modes in a continuous spectrum. When frequencies of these modes coincide, the effect of resonant excitation occurs in which the amplitude of baroclinic waves increases linearly. This paper studies this effect in the presence of Ekman bottom friction. It is shown that friction suppresses linear wave growth and gives rise to baroclinic waves of finite amplitude.  相似文献   

18.
Ocean Waves: Half-a-Century of Discovery   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
While the nature of most ocean waves has long been known and their basic physics understood since the nineteenth century, intense study of ocean waves during the second half of the twentieth century has taken the subject from the realm of mathematical exercises to that of practical engineering. Modern understanding of the generation, propagation and interactions of ocean waves with each other and with oceanic features has advanced to a quantitative level offering predictive capacity. This paper presents a brief qualitative review of advances in knowledge of sound waves, wind waves, tsunamis, tides, internal waves and long-period vorticity waves. The review is aimed at non-specialists who may benefit from an overview of the current state of the subject and access to a bibliography of general-interest references. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.  相似文献   

19.
A nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NSE) describing packets of weakly nonlinear waves in an inhomogeneously vortical infinitely deep fluid has been derived. The vorticity is assumed to be an arbitrary function of Lagrangian coordinates and quadratic in the small parameter proportional to the wave steepness. It is shown that the modulational instability criteria for the weakly vortical waves and potential Stokes waves on deep water coincide. The effect of vorticity manifests itself in a shift of the wavenumber of high-frequency filling. A special case of Gerstner waves with a zero coefficient at the nonlinear term in the NSE is noted.  相似文献   

20.
TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter data are analyzed for the 8.5-year period November 1992 to May 2001 to investigate the sea surface height (SSH) and geostrophic velocity signatures of quasi-annual equatorially trapped Rossby waves in the Pacific. The latitudinal structures of SSH and both components of geostrophic velocity are found to be asymmetric about the equator across the entire Pacific with larger amplitude north of the equator. The westward phase speeds are estimated by several different methods to be in the range 0.5-0.6 m s−1. These observed characteristics are inconsistent with the classical theory for first vertical, first meridional mode equatorially trapped Rossby waves, which predicts a phase speed of about 0.9 m s−1 with latitudinally symmetric structures of SSH and zonal velocity and antisymmetric structure of meridional velocity. The observations are even less consistent with the latitudinal structures of SSH and geostrophic velocity components for other modes of the classical theory.The latitudinal asymmetries deduced here have also been consistently observed in past analyses of subsurface thermal data and altimeter data and have been variously attributed to sampling errors in the observational data, a superposition of multiple meridional Rossby wave modes, asymmetric forcing by the wind, and forcing by cross-equatorial southerly winds in the eastern Pacific. We propose a different mechanism to account for the observed asymmetric latitudinal structure of low-frequency equatorial Rossby waves. From the free-wave solutions of a simple 1.5-layer model, it is shown that meridional shears in the mean equatorial current system significantly alter the potential vorticity gradient in the central and eastern tropical Pacific. The observed asymmetric structures of sea surface height and geostrophic velocity components are found to be a natural consequence of the shear modification of the potential vorticity gradient. The mean currents also reduce the predicted westward phase speed of first meridional mode Rossby waves, improving consistency with the observations.  相似文献   

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