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1.
Numerical analyses for the Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves associated long waves due to sinusoidally varying seabeds are performed by using a set of coupled ordinary differential equations derived from the Boussinesq equations. The Boussinesq equations are firstly approximated with the Fourier decomposition. The coupled governing equations are then derived and used to simulate evolution of both short and long wave components. It is also found that wave groups are generated by two carrier waves with slightly different frequencies. The wave energy of the initial wave components is transferred to other harmonic components during propagation over a long distance. Evolution and reflection of both short and long waves were largely affected by nonlinearity. 相似文献
2.
From the phase-resolving improved Boussinesq equations (Beji and Nadaoka, Ocean Engineering 23 (1996) 691), a phase-averaged Boussinesq model for water waves is derived by more effectively describing carrier wave groups and accompanying long wave evolution with less CPU time. Linear shoaling characteristics of carrier wave equations are investigated and found to agree exactly with the analytical expression obtained from the constancy of energy flux for the improved Boussinesq equations themselves, showing that the present model equations are the results of a consistent derivation procedure regarding energy considerations. Numerical simulations of the derived equations for the single wave group and narrow-banded random waves show the validity of the present model and its high performance, especially on the CPU time. 相似文献
3.
非线性波浪时域计算的三维耦合模型 总被引：3，自引：1，他引：2
将计算区域Ω划分为内域Ω1和外域Ω2(Ω2=Ω-Ω1),外域控制方程采用改进线性频散特性的二维Boussinesq方程,用预报一校正法数值求解;结构物附近的内域控制方程为三维Navier-Stokes方程,由VOF方法数值求解。通过在外域和内域相匹配的交界面上设置合适的速度和波面边界条件,建立了三维非线性波浪时域计算的耦合模型。模拟试验表明:(1)耦合模型数值波浪水池可以产生稳定的、重复性较好的波动过程;(2)用耦合模型数值波浪水池求解较大浅水区域上的非线性波浪数值计算问题可以取得较高的计算效率,同时又能得出结构物附近的复杂流场。 相似文献
4.
This paper presents the development of a generalized Boussinesq (gB) model for the periodic non-linear shallow-water waves. An incident cnoidal wave solution for the gB model is derived and applied to the wave simulation. A set of radiation boundary conditions is also established to transmit effectively the cnoidal waves out of the computational domain. The classical solutions of the second-order cnoidal waves are discussed within the content of the KdV equation and the generalized Boussinesq equations. An Euler's predictor-corrector finite-difference algorithm is used for numerical computation. The propagation of normally incident cnoidal waves in a channel is studied. The simulated wave profiles agree well with the analytical results. The temporal and spatial evolution of an obliquely incident cnoidal wave is also modelled. The phenomenon of Mach reflection is discussed. 相似文献
5.
A new set of equations of motion for wave propagation in water with varying depth is derived in this study. The equations expressed by the velocity potentials and the wave surface elevations include first-order non-linearity of waves and have the same dispersion characteristic to the extended Boussinesq equations. Compared to the extended Boussinesq equations, the equations have only two unknown scalars and do not contain spatial derivatives with an order higher than 2. The wave equations are solved by a finite element method. Fourth-order predictor–corrector method is applied in the time integration and a damping layer is applied at the open boundary for absorbing the outgoing waves. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable water depth. The computational results are compared with experimental data and other numerical results available in literature. The comparison demonstrates that the new form of the equations is capable of calculating wave transformation from relative deep water to shallow water. 相似文献
6.
This is the second of three papers on the modelling of various types of surf zone phenomena. In the first paper the general model was described and it was applied to study cross-shore motion of regular waves in the surf zone. In this paper, part II, we consider the cross-shore motion of wave groups and irregular waves with emphasis on shoaling, breaking and runup as well as the generation of surf beats. These phenomena are investigated numerically by using a time-domain Boussinesq type model, which resolves the primary wave motion as well as the long waves. As compared with the classical Boussinesq equations, the equations adopted here allow for improved linear dispersion characteristics and wave breaking is modelled by using a roller concept for spilling breakers. The swash zone is included by incorporating a moving shoreline boundary condition and radiation of short and long period waves from the offshore boundary is allowed by the use of absorbing sponge layers. Mutual interaction between short waves and long waves is inherent in the model. This allows, for example, for a general exchange of energy between triads rather than a simple one-way forcing of bound waves and for a substantial modification of bore celerities in the swash zone due to the presence of long waves. The model study is based mainly on incident bichromatic wave groups considering a range of mean frequencies, group frequencies, modulation rates, sea bed slopes and surf similarity parameters. Additionally, two cases of incident irregular waves are studied. The model results presented include transformation of surface elevations during shoaling, breaking and runup and the resulting shoreline oscillations. The low frequency motion induced by the primary-wave groups is determined at the shoreline and outside the surf zone by low-pass filtering and subsequent division into incident bound and free components and reflected free components. The model results are compared with laboratory experiments from the literature and the agreement is generally found to be very good. Finally the paper includes special details from the breaker model: time and space trajectories of surface rollers revealing the breakpoint oscillation and the speed of bores; envelopes of low-pass filtered radiation stress and surface elevation; sensitivity of surf beat to group frequency, modulation rate and bottom slope is investigated. Part III of this work (Sørensen et al., 1998) presents nearshore circulations induced by the breaking of unidirectional and multi-directional waves. 相似文献
7.
On the basis of the new type Boussinesq equations (Madsen et al.,2002),a set of equations explicitly including the effects of currents on waves are derived.A numerical implementation of the present equations in one dimension is described.The numerical model is tested for wave propagation in a wave flume of uniform depth with current present.The present numerical results are compared with those of other researchers.It is validated that the present numerical model can reasonably reflect the nonlinear influences of currents on waves.Moreover,the effects of inputting different incident boundary conditions on the calculated results are studied. 相似文献
8.
The three-dimensional scattering of cnoidal waves by cylinder arrays are studied numerically by using the generalized Boussinesq equations. The boundary-fitted coordinate transformation and a dual-grid technique are used to simplify the finite-difference computation. Also, a set of open boundary conditions and an incident cnoidal wave are incorporated for time-domain simulation. The free-surface elevation and hydrodynamic forces on each cylinder are calculated to illustrate the evolution of nonlinear waves and their interactions with large cylinder arrays. Comparisons are made between the present nonlinear wave loads and those obtained from linear diffraction theory. The sheltering role played by the neighboring cylinders and the feature of wave interference are discussed. 相似文献
9.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,42(2):155-162
It is studied whether the mass transport or energy transport is the proper viewpoint for internally generating waves in the extended Boussinesq equations of Nwogu [J. Waterw., Port, Coastal Ocean Eng. 119 (1993) 618–638]. Numerical solutions of the Boussinesq equations with the internal generation of sinusoidal waves show that the energy transport approach yields the required wave amplitude properly while the mass transport approach yields wave amplitude different from the required one by the ratio of phase velocity to energy velocity. The waves which pass through the wave generation point do not cause any numerical distortion while the incident waves are generated. The technique of internal generation of waves shows its capability of generating nonlinear cnoidal waves as well as linear sinusoidal waves. 相似文献
10.
系泊船非线性波浪力时域计算:二维模型 总被引：7，自引：1，他引：6
为找到具有工程实用价值的港口系泊船波浪力的时域计算方法,建立了在港口中存在系泊船时非线性波浪力时域计算的垂直二维耦合模型:用Boussinesq方程计算船的两侧的外域,用欧拉方程计算船底面下的内域,两域在交界面处的连接条件是流量连续和压力相等.将复平面内的边界元方法应用于所研究问题,对耦合模型进行了验证.进行了相关模型实验,实验结果与数值计算结果比较表明这两种数值计算模型都具有满意的精度,但耦合模型的计算效率要远远高于边界元方法的计算效率.本耦合模型的数学处理简单,可适用于工程计算. 相似文献
11.
Euler's equations of motion in conjunction with the dynamic boundary condition are manipulated to obtain exact (and approximate) alternative momentum equations for nonlinear irrotational surface waves. The Airy and Boussinesq equations are re-derived as demonstrative examples. A fully nonlinear version of the improved Boussinesq equations is presented as a new application of the proposed equations. Further use of the equations in developing depth-integrated wave models, which are not necessarily restricted to finite depths, is also pointed out. 相似文献
12.
Nonlinear water wave propagation passing a submerged shelf is studied experimentally and numerically. The applicability of two different wave propagation models has been investigated. One is higher-order Boussinesq equations derived by Zou (1999) and the other is the classic Boussinesq equations. Physical experiments are conducted, three different front slopes (1:10, 1:5 and 1:2) of the shelf are set up in the experiment and their effects on wave propagation are investigated. Comparisons of numerical results with test data are made, the model of higher-order Boussinesq equations agrees much better with the measurements than the model of the classical Boussinesq equations. The results show that the higher-order Boussinesq equations can also be applied to the steeper slope case although the mild slope assumption is employed in the derivation of the higher order terms of higher order Boussinesq equations. 相似文献
13.
建立具有色散性的水平二维非线性波浪方程,方程的非线性近似到了三阶。方程以波面升高和自由表面速度势表达的微分-积分型数学方程,给出方程的数值求解方法和算例,对方程积分项的处理给出了计算方法。计算结果与Boussinesq方程模型和缓坡方程模型的对应计算结果进行了对比。 相似文献
14.
A model for solving the two-dimensional enhanced Boussinesq equations is presented. The model equations are discretised in space using an unstructured finite element technique. The standard Galerkin method with mixed interpolation is applied. The time discretisation is performed using an explicit three-step Taylor–Galerkin method. The model is extended to the surf and swash zone by inclusion of wave breaking and a moving boundary at the shoreline. Breaking is treated by an existing surface roller model, but a new procedure for the detection of the roller thickness is devised. The model is verified using four test cases and the results are compared with experimental data and results from an existing finite difference Boussinesq model. 相似文献
15.
A Boussinesq model for simulating wave and current interaction 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
A new formulation of a pair of Boussinesq equations for three-dimensional nonlinear dispersive shallow-water waves is presented. This set of model equations permits spatial and temporal variations of the bottom topography and the presence of uniform currents. The newly derived equations are used to simulate the propagation of cnoidal waves and their interactions with a uniform current in a wave channel. The modified Euler's predictor-corrector algorithm for time advancing and a central difference representation for the space derivatives are applied to the computation of the basic equations. A set of open boundary conditions is developed to effectively transmit the cnoidal waves out of the computational domain. It is found that, as expected, the wave length decreases with an opposing current and increases with a following current. The wave height increases in magnitude with an opposing current and decreases with a following current. The Mach reflection due to oblique cnoidal waves propagating into an open channel with an opposing current is also investigated. Due to the opposing current, the wave patterns are compressed into smaller saddle-like regions in comparison with the Mach reflection without current effect. 相似文献
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18.
Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model. Part I. Model description and cross-shore motion of regular waves 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
This is the first of three papers on the modelling of various types of surf zone phenomena. In this first paper, part I, the model is presented and its basic features are studied for the case of regular waves. The model is based on two-dimensional equations of the Boussinesq type and it features improved linear dispersion characteristics, possibility of wave breaking, and a moving boundary at the shoreline. The moving shoreline is treated numerically by replacing the solid beach by a permeable beach characterized by an extremely small porosity. Run-up of nonbreaking waves is verified against the analytical solution for nonlinear shallow water waves. The inclusion of wave breaking is based on the surface roller concept for spilling breakers using a geometrical determination of the instantaneous roller thickness at each point and modelling the effect of wave breaking by an additional convective momentum term. This is a function of the local wave celerity, which is determined interactively. The model is applied to cross-shore motions of regular waves including various types of breaking on plane sloping beaches and over submerged bars. Model results comprise time series of surface elevations and the spatial variation of phase-averaged quantities such as the wave height, the crest and trough elevations, the mean water level, and the depth-averaged undertow. Comparisons with physical experiments are presented. The phaseaveraged balance of the individual terms in the momentum and energy equation is determined by time-integration and quantities such as the cross-sectional roller area, the radiation stress, the energy flux and the energy dissipation are studied and discussed with reference to conventional phase-averaged wave models. The companion papers present cross-shore motions of breaking irregular waves, swash oscillations and surf beats (part II) and nearshore circulations induced by breaking of unidirectional and multidirectional waves (part III). 相似文献
19.
Finite volume scheme for the solution of 2D extended Boussinesq equations in the surf zone 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
In this paper, a hybrid finite volume-finite difference scheme is applied to study surf zone dynamics. The numerical model solves the 2DH extended Boussinesq equations proposed by Madsen and Sørensen (1992) where nonlinear and dispersive effects are both relevant whereas it solves NSWE equations where nonlinearity prevails. The shock-capturing features of the finite volume method allow an intrinsic representation of wave breaking and runup; therefore no empirical (calibration) parameters are necessary. Comparison with laboratory measurements demonstrates that the proposed model can accurately predict wave height decay and mean water level setup, for both regular and solitary wave breaking on a sloping beach. The model is also applied to reproduce two-dimensional wave transformation and breaking over a submerged circular shoal, showing good agreement with experimental data. 相似文献
20.
The interaction of a solitary wave with an array of surface-piercing vertical circular cylinders is investigated numerically. The wave motion is modeled by a set of generalized Boussinesq equations. The governing equations are discretized using a finite element method. The numerical model is validated against the experimental data of solitary wave reflection from a vertical wall and solitary wave scattering by a vertical circular cylinder respectively. The predicted wave surface elevation and the wave forces on the cylinder agree well with the experimental data. The numerical model is then employed to study solitary wave scattering by arrays of two circular cylinders and four circular cylinders respectively. The effect of wave direction on the wave forces and the wave runup on the cylinders is quantified. 相似文献