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1.
Submerged barriers are constructed in coastal zones for shoreline or harbor protection or to prevent the beach erosion. In the present study, the wave run-up on a vertical seawall protected by a submerged barrier is analyzed. The physical configurations include a rigid barrier and a long channel of finite depth. For linear water waves, by matching the velocity along the barrier and along the gap, the systems of linear equations about the velocity potentials are obtained. The wave run-up is further analyzed for various settings of barrier height and distance between the barrier and the wall, i.e. the chamber length. For nonlinear waves and random sea waves, a numerical model is extended to investigate the effect parameters of the barrier on the wave run-up against the seawall. Not only the numerical simulations, but also the analytical results illustrate that the wave run-up on the seawall depends very much on the distance between the barrier and the vertical seawall. 相似文献
2.
波浪的方向分布对波浪的传播及其与工程结构物的作用都具有明显影响,目前现有的研究大多是基于单向波浪进行的。为了研究方向分布对群墩结构上的爬高影响,基于规则波浪与群墩作用的理论解,结合多向不规则波浪的造波方法,建立了多向不规则波浪与群墩作用的计算模型,同时进行了物理模型试验对模型的有效性进行了验证。系统地对群墩周围及表面上的波浪爬高进行了计算分析,结果表明,方向分布对波浪爬高具有较大的影响,且不同位置处的影响并不相同,在实际的工程设计中如果按照单向波浪计算,可能低估或者高估群墩周围的爬高。 相似文献
3.
半潜平台的波浪爬升与气隙响应是设计过程中的重要考量因素。为探究随机波浪场中畸形波对半潜平台波浪爬升及气隙响应的影响,将含畸形波的随机波浪试验与一般随机波浪试验结果进行了对比研究分析。对模型试验测得的运动以及监测点处的波浪爬升及气隙进行频谱分析以及极值统计分析。研究发现,纵荡和纵摇的极大值主要受畸形波的影响而显著增大,纵荡、垂荡以及纵摇响应谱几乎不受单个畸形波影响;波浪爬升与气隙的极大值受到畸形波的影响而增大,同时,畸形波对气隙响应谱造成极大影响,增强了波浪爬升与气隙响应的非线性性。 相似文献
4.
本文采用圆柱体阵列来模拟珊瑚礁面的大糙率,通过波浪水槽实验研究礁面糙率对孤立波传播变形及岸滩爬高的影响。结果表明,粗糙礁面的存在显著削弱了礁坪上孤立波的首峰和礁后岸滩反射造成的次峰,同时降低了波浪在珊瑚礁面的传播速度;垂直于岸线方向沿礁相对波高随着入射波增大而减小,随着礁坪水深的增大而增大,粗糙礁面上波高沿礁的衰减更为显著;礁前斜坡的无量纲反射波高随无量纲入射波高的变化与礁坪水深有关,当入射波高足够大时其趋于常值,粗糙礁面略微增大了礁前斜坡的反射;无量纲透射波高和岸滩爬高随着无量纲入射波高的增大而减小,特别是礁坪水深较大时更为显著,粗糙礁面时的无量纲岸滩爬高相对于光滑礁面平均减小46%;通过回归分析得出了同时适合于光滑和粗糙礁面的预测孤立波岸滩爬高的经验关系式。 相似文献
5.
A series of hydraulic model tests are carried out to investigate random wave run-up and overtopping on smooth, impermeable single slope and composite slope. Based on analysis of the influences of wave steepness, structure slope, incident wave angle, width of the berm and water depth on the berm and the wave run-up, empirical formulas for wave run-up on dike are proposed. Moreover, empirical formula on estimating the wave run-up on composite slope with multiple berms is presented for practical application of complex dike cross-section. The present study shows that the influence factors for wave overtopping are almost the same as those for wave run-up and the trend of the wave overtopping variation with main influence parameters is also similar to that for wave run-up. The trend of the wave overtopping discharge variations can be well described by two main factors, i.e. the wave run-up and the crest freeboard of the structure. A new prediction method for wave overtopping discharge is proposed for random waves. The proposed prediction formulas are applied to case study of over forty cases and the results show that the prediction methods are good enough for practical design purposes. 相似文献
6.
Benchmark computations of wave run-up on single cylinder and four cylinders by naoe-FOAM-SJTU solver
The benchmark simulations of wave run-up on a fixed single truncated circular cylinder and four circular cylinders are presented in this paper. Our in-house CFD solver naoe-FOAM-SJTU is adopted which is an unsteady two-phase CFD code based on the open source package OpenFOAM. The Navier-Stokes equations are employed as the governing equations, and the volume of fluid (VOF) method is applied for capturing the free surface. Monochromatic incident waves with the specified wave period and wave height are simulated and wave run-up heights around the cylinder are computed and recorded with numerical virtual wave probes. The relationship between the wave run-up heights and the incident wave parameters are analyzed. The numerical results indicate that the presented naoe-FOAM-SJTU solver can provide accurate predictions for the wave run-up on one fixed cylinder and four cylinders, which has been proved by the comparison of simulated results with experimental data. 相似文献
7.
孤立波与带窄缝双箱相互作用模拟研究 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
针对孤立波与带窄缝双箱的作用问题,应用时域高阶边界元方法建立了二维数值水槽。其中,自由水面满足完全非线性运动学和动力学边界条件,对瞬时自由表面流体质点采用混合欧拉-拉格朗日法追踪,采用四阶龙格库塔法对下一时刻的自由水面的速度势和波面升高进行更新。采用加速度势法求解物体湿表面的瞬时波浪力。采用推板方法生成孤立波。通过模拟孤立波在直墙上的爬高以及施加在直墙上的波浪力,并与已发表的实验和数值结果对比,验证本数值模型的准确性。通过数值模拟计算研究了窄缝宽度、方箱尺寸对波浪在箱体迎浪侧爬高,窄缝内波面升高,箱体背浪侧透射波高及箱体受波浪荷载的影响。同时研究了有一定时间间隔的双孤立波与带窄缝双箱系统作用问题。 相似文献
8.
The form of Boussinesq equation derived by Nwogu （1993） using velocity at an arbitrary distance and surface elevation as variables is used to simulate wave surface elevation changes. In the numerical experiment, water depth was divided into five layers with six layer interfaces to simulate velocity at each layer interface. Besides, a physical experiment was carried out to validate numerical model and study solitary wave propagation.“Water column collapsing”method （WCCM） was used to generate solitary wave. A series of wave gauges around an impervious breakwater were set-up in the flume to measure the solitary wave shoaling, run-up, and breaking processes. The results show that the measured data and simulated data are in good agreement. Moreover, simulated and measured surface elevations were analyzed by the wavelet transform method. It shows that different wave frequencies stratified in the wavelet amplitude spectrum. Finally, horizontal and vertical velocities of each layer interface were analyzed in the process of solitary wave propagation through submerged breakwater. 相似文献
9.
为了研究波浪非线性对爬高的影响,解决防波堤等工程设计的实际问题,通过对数学模型试验、物理模型试验、规范公式得到的防波堤波浪爬高对比分析,分析了非线性主要影响参数厄塞尔数、相对水深和波陡对波浪爬高的影响规律,指出规范公式计算时存在的缺陷,并对其计算公式、适用范围进行修正、拟合,得到了强非线性规则波浪爬高的计算方法,可适用于斜坡堤断面的波浪爬高计算,与物理模型试验和数学模型试验结果对比表明,新的波浪爬高计算公式具有较好的计算精度,研究结果可为防波堤等实际工程设计提供重要参考。 相似文献
10.
波浪爬高是海岸工程中重要的水动力学问题之一,其数值模拟方法通常是通过离散Navier-Stokes方程或Boussinesq方程实现的,其中基于光滑粒子流体动力学方法是近年发展起来的。本文应用该方法模拟相同水深下,不同波高的孤立波在45(°)陡坡上的爬高,模拟结果与理论计算结果及已有物理模型试验结果进行了对比,并模拟出孤立波激散破碎过程及粒子分布和速度场的变化过程。结果表明,对密度近似方程进行重新初始化保持了流场内的质量守恒,同时整个计算域内的压力分布更加规则,说明光滑粒子流体动力学法在波浪爬高计算中的有效性。 相似文献
11.
近岸植被对波浪爬坡具有一定的衰减作用。在自然界中,由于植被的死亡、再生或人为破坏等原因,近岸植被通常呈片状分布,且其内部分布也是不均匀的。本文以完全非线性Boussinesq方程为基础,引入植被作用项,建立了模拟近岸植被区波浪传播的数值模型,验证了模型可靠性,进而采用该模型模拟分析了片状分布植被对孤立波爬高的影响。数值模拟结果表明,片状分布植被能有效减小孤立波爬高;对于均匀分布的片状植被,高密度片状植被对孤立波爬高的消减效果优于低密度片状植被;对于相同密度、不同分布形式的片状植被,均匀分布的片状植被对孤立波的消减效果优于不均匀分布的片状植被;对于不均匀分布的片状植被,前密后疏的片状植被对孤立波的消减效果优于前疏后密的片状植被。 相似文献
12.
堤前远破波运动与冲淤形态 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
利用数值波浪水槽,对远破波作用下堤前波浪运动进行了数值模拟。分析了堤前速度场的变化,指出堤前波浪运动在一个波周期内可分为向堤波和离堤波。波浪在距堤约L/2处破碎后向堤冲击并沿堤面爬升,称为向堤波;波浪从堤面最高处回落与向堤波相遇并破碎,称为离堤波。堤前远破波的前半个周期的向堤波速度场大于后半个周期的离堤波速度场,且堤前波浪运动在一个波周期内的前半个周期和后半个周期完全不同。床面某点(L/4,3L/4)的速度在一个波浪周期内随时间呈向堤和离堤变化,向堤速度最大值大于离堤速度的最大值。利用堤前速度场的研究成果,进一步分析了远破波作用下堤前海床冲淤形成过程,完善了冲淤机理。 相似文献
13.
This paper presents the results of a parametric study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs using the shock-capturing Boussinesq wave model Funwave-TVD to better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of wave-driven flooding. Laboratory experiments were newly performed with a typical fringing reef profile and typical hydrodynamic conditions to validate the model. Experimental data shows irregular wave run-ups are dominated by the low-frequency motions and confirms the run-up resonant phenomenon over the back-reef slope, which has been revealed in previous numerical studies. It is demonstrated that irregular wave evolution and run-up over fringing reefs are reasonably reproduced by the present model with a proper grid size. However, the infragravity run-up height and highest 2% run-up height over the back-reef slope are under-predicted due to the underestimation of the infragravity wave height over the reef flat. The validated model was then utilized to model irregular wave transformations and run-ups under different conditions. Through a series of numerical experiments, the effects of key hydrodynamic and reef geometry parameters, including the reef flat width, water depth over the reef flat, fore-reef slope angle and back-reef slope angle, on the irregular wave run-up were investigated. Variations of spectral components of irregular wave run-ups were examined to better understand the physical process underlying the effect of each parameter. 相似文献
14.
The boundary integral equation method (BIEM) is developed as a tool for studying two-dimensional, nonlinear water wave problems, including the phenomena of wave generation, propagation and run-up. The wave motions are described by a potential flow theory. Nonlinear free-surface boundary conditions are incorporated in the numerical formulation. Examples are given for either a solitary wave or two successive solitary waves. Special treatment is developed to trace the run-up and run-down along a shoreline. The accuracy of the present scheme is verified by comparing numerical results with experimental data of maximum run-up. 相似文献
15.
The experimental investigation of the run-up of periodic internal waves in a two-layer fluid on the coastal slope is performed
in an open hydrochannel at the Physical Department of the Lomonosov Moscow State University. The waves are produced by a wave
generator. We study the transformation of waves, the vertical structure of the field of velocities of mass transfer, and the
behavior of the parameters of internal waves propagating over the sloping bottom. It is shown that the run-up and breaking
of internal waves are accompanied by periodic emissions of portions of the heavier fluid from the bottom layer upward along
the slope. The Stokes drift velocity changes its sign as a function of depth. Moreover, both the wave length (the horizontal
distance between the neighboring crests) and the height of waves over the sloping bottom (the elevation of the crest over
the slope along the vertical) decrease as the wave approaches the coast. 相似文献
16.
波浪爬高的测量是海岸环境监测中的一项重要内容,文中介绍一种采用视频方式测量波浪爬高的方法,并给出波浪爬高时间堆栈图像上端边缘曲线的提取步骤,为进一步求解波浪爬高的相关参数打下基础。 相似文献
17.
D. L. Kriebel 《Ocean Engineering》1992,19(1)
Theoretical results for second-order wave run-up around a large diameter vertical circular cylinder are compared to results of 22 laboratory experiments conducted in regular nonlinear waves. In general, the second-order theory explains a significant portion of the nonlinear wave run-up distribution measured at all angles around the cylinder. At the front of the cylinder, for example, measured maximum run-up exceeds linear theory by 44% on average but exceeds the nonlinear theory by only 11% on average. In some cases, both measured run-up and the second-order theory exceed the linear prediction by more than 50%. Similar results are found at the rear of the cylinder where the second-order theory predicts a large increase in wave amplitude for cases where the linear diffraction theory predicts little or no increase. Overall, the nonlinear diffraction theory is found to be valid for the same relative depth and wave steepness conditions applicable to Stokes second-order plane-wave theory. In the last section of the paper, design curves are presented for estimating the maximum second-order wave run-up for a wide range of conditions in terms of the relative depth, relative cylinder size, and wave steepness. 相似文献
18.
19.
Zhou Jiabao Zhang Jiachang Senior Engineer River Harbour Department Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1992,(1)
-The effect of wave group on wave run-up on a slope dike is mainly discussed in this paper. Two simulating methods of wave group and their applications in laboratory are introduced. Synthesizing the research results of wave run-up on a slope dike, the effect of wave group on wave run-up on a slope dike in coastal protection engineering is studied as the main point. 相似文献
20.
This paper describes a plane regular wave interaction with a combined cylinder which consists of a solid inner column and a coaxial perforated outer cylinder.The outer perforated surface is a thin porous cylinder with an annular gap between it and the inner cylinder.The non-linear boundary condition at the perforated wall is a prime focus in the study;energy dissipation at the perforated wall occurs through the resistance to the fluid across the perforated wall.Explicit analytical formulae are presented to calculate the wave run-up on the outer and inner surfaces of the perforated cylinder and the surface of the inner column.The theoretical results of the wave run-up are compared with previous experimental data.Numerical results have also been obtained:when the ratio of the annular gap between the two cylinders to incident wavelength(b-a)/L≤0.1,the wave run-up on the inner surface of the perforated cylinder and the surface of inner column can partially or completely exceed the incident wave height. 相似文献