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1.
To relate the textural characteristics of the bottom sediments of a tidal inlet to hydrodynamics, 45 sediment samples from the Tauranga Entrance to Tauranga Harbour were analysed for textural parameters, and tidal currents and waves were monitored. Tidal currents dominate sediment transport processes near the Tauranga Entrance although swell waves are significant on the ebb tidal delta, and wind waves may influence intertidal sediments within the harbour. The bulk of the sediment is probably derived from marine sand from the Bay of Plenty continental shelf, but tidal currents and waves have changed its textural character. In areas of swift tidal currents, particularly in the inlet channel itself, sediment is coarser, more poorly sorted, and more coarsely skewed than that in areas of slower currents. 相似文献
2.
沿岸流不稳定性的实验研究及理论分析 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
在坡度为1:40的平面斜坡上进行了单向不规则波的沿岸流不稳定运动实验,观测到了沿岸流的周期性波动(波动周期约为100 s)。利用最大熵方法和三角函数回归法求得这种波动的主频率以及幅值,分析了波动幅值在垂直岸线方向的变化,结果表明该变化与沿岸流变化类似,即在沿岸流最大值附近这种波动强度最大。为了分析波动的机理,利用线性沿岸流不稳定模型对模型实验结果进行了分析,求得了不稳定运动增长模式和波动周期,并与对应实测结果进行了比较,结果表明,计算结果与实测值符合,从而说明实验中观测到的这种周期性波动为沿岸流不稳定引起的剪切波。 相似文献
3.
Yutaka Yoshikawa Akira Masuda Kenichi Marubayashi Michiyoshi Ishibashi 《Journal of Oceanography》2010,66(2):223-232
Seasonal variations of the surface currents in the Tsushima Strait were investigated by analyzing the monthly mean surface
currents measured with HF radar. Several new features of the surface currents have been found. One notable feature is the
large, complicated seasonal variation in the current structure in the eastern channel of the strait. For example, in the southeastern
and northwestern regions of the channel, southwestward countercurrents are found in summer while southeastward acrossshore
currents are found in autumn and winter. The wind-driven flow (Ekman flow) as well as surface geostrophic currents are responsible
for these complicated variations of the surface currents. To quantify each variation of the flow and current, the wind-driven
flow was calculated from the monthly wind (more precisely, the friction velocity) using the monthly speed factor and deflection
angle estimated in our previous study, and the surface geostrophic currents were then estimated by subtracting the wind-driven
flow from the measured surface currents. It was found that the acrossshore currents are the wind-driven flow, and that the
surface geostrophic currents flow almost in the along-shore direction, indicating the validity of the decomposition of the
surface velocity into the wind-driven flow and the geostrophic currents using the speed factor and deflection angle. A real-vector
empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis of the surface geostrophic currents shows a pair of eddies in the lee of Tsushima
and Iki Islands as the first mode, which indicates that the southwestward countercurrents in the eastern channel are formed
primarily by the incoming Tsushima Warm Current. 相似文献
4.
A continuous observation system of ship drift of ferry boats was developed using Loran C, ship direction, ship speed and wind velocity measurement. A formula to estimate the wind-driven lateral drift of the boat is proposed, and a measuring system of the surface current is described, including a discussions on its usefullness to monitor day-to-day variations of the circulation patterns in the coastal boundary regions of the Kuroshio.This system was applied to observe variations of the circulation in the Kumano-nada, and Enshu-nada Seas south of Japan. Some preliminary results were obtained by using this system as well as other methods. This work focuses on the behavior of warm eddies in the Kumano-nada Sea. The surface current patterns that include these phenomena obtained by the use of the ship drift show good correspondence with currents and thermal structures observed with GEK, CTD, moored current meters and satellite thermal images. 相似文献
5.
本文以Argo轨迹资料计算的赤道太平洋中层流(1 000 m深度流场)作为实测数据,从空间结构特征和时间变化特征两方面对5套常用海洋模式产品(OFES、LICOM、HYCOM、ECCO2和SODA)进行了评估。Argo流场显示赤道太平洋中层流呈条带状结构,且存在明显的西强东弱和南强北弱特征。此外,赤道太平洋中层流存在明显的季节变化且其相位关于赤道对称。5套模式产品的评估结果表明,SODA流场与实测流场最接近,其时空变化特征都与实测流场基本一致;其次是ECCO2流场,除流场动能偏小以外,其他各方面都与实测流场一致;OFES、LICOM和HYCOM流场的模拟效果较差,但都能再现条带状结构特征。 相似文献
6.
The very pronounced spring-neap tidal cycle in the South Australian Gulfs leads to an unusually large variation in the magnitude of the tidal currents. Measurements of the currents in these Gulfs show that the non-tidal circulation depends on the strength of the tidal currents and hence on the spring-neap cycle. A simple model is produced in which the vertical eddy viscosity is a function of both wind strength and tidal currents. Results from the model agree with the observations and suggest a means whereby variations in tidal mixing may be accounted for in hydrodynamic modelling of the circulation in shallow seas. 相似文献
7.
Coastal wetlands such as salt marshes and mangroves provide valuable ecosystem services including coastal protection. Many studies have assessed the influence of plant traits and wave conditions on vegetation-induced wave dissipation, whereas the effect of tidal currents is often ignored. To our knowledge, only two studies investigated wave dissipation by vegetation with the presence of following currents (current velocity is in the same direction as wave propagation) (Li and Yan, 2007; Paul et al., 2012). However, based on independent experiments, they have drawn contradictive conclusions whether steady currents increase or decrease wave attenuation. We show in this paper that this inconsistency may be caused by a difference in ratio of imposed current velocity to amplitude of the horizontal wave orbital velocity. We found that following currents can either increase or decrease wave dissipation depending on the velocity ratio, which explains the seeming inconsistency in the two previous studies. Wave dissipation in plant canopies is closely related to vegetation drag coefficients. We apply a new approach to obtain the drag coefficients. This new method eliminates the potential errors that are often introduced by the commonly used method. More importantly, it is capable of obtaining the vegetation drag coefficient in combined current–wave flows, which is not possible for the commonly used calibration method. Based on laboratory data, we propose an empirical relation between drag coefficient and Reynolds number, which can be useful for numerical modeling. The characteristics of drag coefficient variation and in-canopy velocity dynamics are incorporated into an analytical model to help understand the effect of following currents on vegetation-induced wave dissipation. 相似文献
8.
Yu. V. Artamonov 《Physical Oceanography》2006,16(3):177-187
The monthly average values of the anomalies of the ocean level (according to the satellite data for 1992–2002) and the annual
average dynamic heights (hydrological data) are used to compute the seasonal cycle of geostrophic currents on the surface
of the Atlantic Ocean. It is shown that the west and east currents are intensified with a phase difference of several months.
At the same time, their latitudinal displacements are quasisynchronous. A delay of the seasonal signal in the east-west direction
of about 2–3 months (on the average) is typical of currents in the tropical zone of the Northern Hemisphere. On the contrary,
in the South Atlantic, the seasonal signal propagates in the west-east direction and its phase delay can be as large as almost
six months.
__________
Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 3, pp. 60–71, May–June, 2006. 相似文献
9.
台湾海峡地理位置独特,西侧海域海湾 岛屿系统普遍发育,显著影响了海域流场分布。同时,海峡西岸经济区的快速发展对区域海洋动力环境背景场及其变化的精细认识提出了更高的要求。福建莆田南日岛西侧南日水道是连通兴化湾与平海湾的主要水道,是区域海洋动力环境的“咽喉”所在,在区域海洋环境保护与科学开发利用中居于至关重要的位置。为了全面认识台湾海峡西侧海湾 岛屿系统影响下区域海洋动力环境背景场的年季变化,本研究利用布放在南日水道的座底观测系统获得的周年海流资料,结合同期气象风场资料,通过数据统计分析、调和分析、滤波处理和小波变化等手段,研究了南日水道内海流的季节变化规律和驱动余流的动力要素,初步探讨了热带气旋等对海洋动力演化过程的影响。研究结果表明,研究海域潮流为不正规半日浅海潮流,并具有明显的半月周期,涨潮流大于落潮流,涨潮流主方向为 WNW 向,落潮流主方向为 SE—ESE向。旋转谱结果表明,研究海域以半日潮为主,逆时针能量强于顺时针,惯性周期无明显的谱峰。潮流强度的季节变化特征为冬季最强,秋季、春季次之,夏季最弱。夏、秋季的余流流速较其他季节明显偏大,表层余流有明显的季节特征,底层余流全年为北向流。观测点余流主要由风引起,二者有很好的相关性,但频率统计结果显示二者方向不一致,表明余流在地形的作用下发生了转向,其中潮致余流对表层余流贡献较小。小波能量图表明,双台风（热带气旋）期间风和余流均存在1 d及6 d左右的周期信号,二者密切相关。本研究成果对于区域海洋环保以及海域科学开发与应用具有重要的现实意义。 相似文献
10.
P. L. Christoffersen C. Christiansen J. B. Jensen T. Leipe S. Hille 《Geo-Marine Letters》2007,27(5):325-338
Information on grain-size distribution and total organic carbon (TOC) content of surface sediment and cores from the Bornholm
Basin, together with dating of cores using the 210Pb method and shallow seismic chirp profiling, has been analysed to elucidate long-term accumulation patterns. The presence
of non-depositional areas with lag sediments and low TOC content below the wave base indicates that inflows of dense bottom
water originating in the North Sea and associated near-bottom currents have strong influence on the depositional patterns
of bulk sediment and organic matter in this deep basin. The general fining in mean grain size towards the northeast corresponds
to the direction of inflow currents and prevailing winds. Recent and previously found 210Pb-based mean accumulation rates vary greatly within the basin, between 129 and 1,144 g m−2 year−1. The accumulation rate may vary by a factor of three even between stations located only 3–4 km apart. Rates recorded close
to a seismic profile are consistent with the variation in Holocene sediment thickness. This variation reflects a depositional
system controlled by near-bottom inflow currents, consisting of a large-scale channel and a wedge-formed sediment package.
The spatial variation in TOC content depends partly on water depth, presumably due to generally poorer degradation in the
deepest part of the basin because of less frequent oxygen supply by inflow water. Moreover, there is a tendency of higher
TOC contents in the southern part of the basin, which may be due to the input of sediments originating from the Oder River.
Compared to values for the central, deep Baltic Sea, TOC contents show lower values of 4–6% and insignificant temporal variations.
This may be due to the Bornholm Basin being located much closer to the source of the more oxic inflow water, resulting in
more favourable degradation conditions. 相似文献
11.
Denis Mougenot Robert B. Kidd Alain Mauffret Hervé Regnauld R. Guy Rothwell Jean-René Vanney 《Marine Geophysical Researches》1984,6(4):329-363
Long-range sidescan sonar (GLORIA) data over Porto and Vigo Seamounts collected in 1978 has been re-interpreted in the light of SEABEAM bathymetric surveys conducted in 1982. The application of quantitative bathymetric information enables the interpreter to allow for artefacts inherent in the GLORIA data and to separate topography-related primary backscattering variations on the sonographs from more subtle changes that result from textural, slope and outcrop effects. The distinctions are made easier when slant-range corrected GLORIA data are available.Use of the combined survey data to precisely locate seismic profiling tracks and to identify likely areas of outcrop has allowed refined geological maps of the seamounts to be drawn and regional fault trends detected. The overall outline of the seamounts appears strongly fault-controlled.Porto and Vigo Seamounts are made up of the same geological formations and have had a similar structural history since their uplift as continental fault blocks in the Late Cretaceous to Middle Eocene period. Ravines that dissect the presumably lithified scarps bounding the seamounts may be relict features but still appear to control sediment input to gulley and channel systems in the surrounding topography. Sedimentary ridges associated with the seamounts represent anomalously thick sequences of post-Eocene material and probably result from interaction of downslope sedimentary processes and contour-following boundary currents.Contribution No. 274 from the Groupe d'Etude de la Marge Continentale (ERA 605). 相似文献
12.
渤海的潮波系统及其变迁 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
黄祖珂 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》1991,(2)
采用二维非线性潮波微分方程对渤海M_2、S_2、K_1、O_1四个分潮进行数值模拟,得出四个分潮的潮波图,椭圆长短轴图,同潮流时图以及潮汐、潮流性质图和S_2与M_2、K_1与O_1的迟角差图。依此可以系统地了解渤海潮波系统的分布变化规律。依据30～40年代测得的渤海海图以及假设数十年后渤海的岸形对渤海进行数值模拟,从而了解过去和现在渤海潮波的变化情况,以及对未来潮波的变化作出判断。计算表明,从30年代到70年代以来,渤海南部的半日分潮波发生了很大的变化,而日分潮的潮波变化较小。 相似文献
13.
L. D. Wright D. B. Prior C. H. Hobbs R. J. Byrne J. D. Boon L. C. Schaffner M. O. Green 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》1987,24(6)
The spatial distributions of the bed textural and morphologic properties that influence boundary-layer roughness characteristics in the lower Chesapeake Bay, the lower portions of the York, James and Elizabeth Rivers, and the adjacent inner continental shelf were systematically mapped. A high resolution, fully-corrected side-scan sonar mapping system (100 kHz) was used for remote acoustic detection of bottom roughness, supported by ‘ground-truthing’ by direct in situ observations by divers. These complementary methods proved to be especially effective in detecting a wide range of roughness-controlling bed surface properties at various scales. Fine-scale variations in sediment size and associated bottom texture are considered to be the main source of heterogeneity in Nikuradse (skin friction) roughness. A wide variety of small- and intermediate-scale morphologic elements provide meso-scale and small-scale distributed (form drag) roughness. Depending upon location, the distributed roughness may be either biogenic or hydrodynamically induced (by currents and waves), although anthropogenic roughness prevails in certain instances (e.g. port areas). In terms of particular combinations of roughness scales and types, combined sonar and diver observation data allow the beds to be systematically but qualitatively classified into 10 bottom types, each of which is associated with a particular type of subenvironment. 相似文献
14.
《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》1987,24(4):513-525
Under-ice current measurements reveal a homogeneous flow of water along Fury and Hecla Strait; it had a westward direction during the passage, over Igloolik, of low pressure cells in the atmosphere and an eastward direction at other times. It is presumed that barometric pressure differences between the Gulf of Boothia and Foxe Basin control partly the direction of the flow. The diurnal and semidiurnal components of the tidal currents also have a simple structure across the section of measurements. The subtidal and tidal components of the current all have the same order of magnitude, namely some 15 cm/s. The vertical tide progresses eastward; the diurnal component diminshhes abruptly once it enters Foxe Basin while the semidiurnal component increases steadily, its mean amplitude rising from 48 to 68 cm between the two extremities of the channel. Convective and frictional effects are evident in the water level records, indicating marked non-linear effects in the tides and currents, an eastward decrease in the diurnal currents and an increase in the semidiurnal ones. 相似文献
15.
本文通过物理模型试验研究了波流共同作用下珊瑚礁冠层附近平均流的分布特征以及阻力特性,分析了典型波浪工况下无潮流、正向潮流和反向潮流分别作用下平均流速、摩阻流速、阻力系数的沿礁变化规律。结果表明：无潮流时礁前斜坡及外礁坪上存在海底回流且在礁缘附近回流最强,在礁坪上冠层附近平均流表现为向岸流,且该流沿礁向海岸方向持续增大。相较于无潮流时,正向潮流作用下冠层内外均为向岸流,在礁坪上冠层内外的向岸流显著增大;反向潮流作用下冠层内外均为离岸流且在礁缘处达到最大,该离岸流在礁坪上逐渐减小然后趋于稳定。无潮流时礁坪上摩阻流速呈小幅波动;相较于无潮流时,正向潮流、反向潮流影响下礁坪上摩阻流速显著增大,其中正向潮流影响下增幅更大;无潮流时礁坪上水力粗糙度沿礁减小,正向潮流和反向潮流影响下水力粗糙度普遍有幅度不等的增加。三种工况下礁坪上的阻力系数均沿礁整体呈下降趋势,相较于无潮流时,正向潮流和反向潮流影响下礁坪上的阻力系数显著增大,且正向潮流作用时增幅更大。 相似文献
16.
Wind effects on sub-tidal currents are studied using current meter records obtained at six moorings across the main basin
of Puget Sound. High correlations between wind speeds and currents are found near the surface and at mid-depths of about 100
m. Empirical Orthogonal Function analysis applied to the axial currents in 1984 and 1985 shows that mode 1, containing over
60% of the variance, is highly correlated with wind speed even without any near surface current records. When near surface
stratification is strong, direct wind effects are limited to the upper 30 m with counter currents in the lower layer indicating
a baroclinic response. The transport in the lower layer almost balances the transport in the upper layer. When near surface
stratification is weak, direct wind effects on currents can be detected to about 100 m. In this case, there is no clear and
consistent depth at which one can separate the upper from the lower layer. Time series show that the acceleration in the surface
layer initially increases in the same direction as the wind when the wind starts blowing, but it reaches a maximum, starts
decreasing, and eventually changes to the opposite direction (decelerates) while the wind continues to blow in one direction.
Results of a continuously stratified normal mode model and estimations from the observations suggest that friction at solid
boundaries is a major cause of these phenomena. The model shows that modal currents of normal modes 2 and 3 are as important
as mode 1, although the resultant vertical structure of total current shows a two-layer type pattern with only one zero crossing.
The effect of the baroclinic pressure gradient is only apparent at low frequencies and among lower modes. 相似文献
17.
A three-dimensional nonlinear mathematical model is used to study the dynamic processes under the action of cyclonic disturbances
in the field of stationary wind in the Sea of Azov and the specific features of transformation of the impurities. The results
of numerical calculations enable us to conclude that the maximum velocities of currents generated by a cyclone depend on the
direction of its motion. It is shown that the cyclones moving westward generate currents with higher maximum velocities than
the cyclones of other directions. It is also demonstrated that the motion of atmospheric disturbances leads to a significant
enlargement of the area of propagation of pollutants as compared with the case of action solely of stationary currents. The
influence of the velocities of stationary currents on the maximum current velocities caused by the passage of a cyclone is
also analyzed. 相似文献
18.
A laboratory experiment on alongshore currents was conducted for two plane beaches, with gradients 1:40 and 1:100, to investigate the instability of alongshore currents. Complicated and strongly unstable alongshore current motions were observed. In order to clearly examine the spatial and temporal variations of the shear instability of the currents, digital images from a charge-coupled device (CCD) recorded the deformations of dye batches released in the surf zone. Some essential characteristics of the shear instability were obtained from analyses of images showing the temporal variation of the dye patches.A high-resolution spectral analysis technique (the maximum entropy method, or MEM) was used to analyze the dominant frequency of the observed oscillation, along with the trigonometric regression method for determining the variations of the oscillation strength in the cross-shore direction. The propagation speed of the dye patch was obtained by tracking the movement over time of fixed locations in the dye patch, such as its peak, in the longshore direction. This data was then fitted linearly.Alongshore and cross-shore velocity time series acquired from sensors showed clearly that large-amplitude, long-period (about 50 s or 100 s) oscillations were present for all sensors deployed in the cross-shore direction under regular and irregular wave conditions. The analysis found that the maximum shear wave amplitude was approximately one-sixth of the maximum for the mean alongshore current, and occurred approximately at the position of the maximum of the mean alongshore current for irregular waves. The spatial structure of the shear waves was studied by analyzing collected images of the dye patches. The phase velocity of the meandering movements was obtained by measuring the magnitude of the oscillations of the dye patches in the alongshore direction with respect to time. The results suggest that the propagation speed of the shear instability was approximately one-half to three-quarters of the maximum mean longshore current for both regular and irregular waves.Linear instability analysis theory was applied to the characteristics of alongshore current instability, which suggested that there are two instability modes related to the observed oscillations: the frontshear mode observed for the 1:100 slope, and the backshear mode observed for the 1:40 slope. Theoretical analyses agreed with the experimental results in both cases. The velocity profile of the mean longshore current was found to affect the instability mode significantly, leading to further investigations on the influence of the velocity profiles and to provide support for the above conclusions. 相似文献
19.
20.
Several independent sets of field data have been analyzed in order to estimate the frequency of sediment movement on the continental shelf off Washington over an annual period and to identify the major components of the bottom velocity field causing this motion. Sediment motions resulting from: (1) bottom currents caused by surface wind stress and tides, and (2) wave-induced oscillatory bottom currents have been investigated. Analysis of a 260-day current record from 3 m off the seabed at 80 m depth on the continental shelf and a 205-day open-ocean wave record collected on Cobb Seamount 465 km west of the Washington coast suggest that the threshold of sediment motion was exceeded for approximately 22 days per year as a result of mean currents (20 min time averaged) and approximately 53 days per year from wave-induced oscillatory currents. Substantial variations can be expected from year to year, so these values represent order of magnitude estimates. 相似文献