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1.
本文基于Longuet-Higgins随机波浪模型和JONSWAP谱,进行了大量深水随机波的模拟,获取了畸形波发生概率稳定的随机波列,并对随机波列中的畸形波进行了分析。结果表明,畸形波发生的概率小于基于Rayleigh分布预测结果,且随谱宽的减小而增大。在固定时间段内,畸形波发生的频次服从泊松分布,时间间隔服从指数分布,且随着谱宽的增大,畸形波的发生频次减小,相邻畸形波的发生时间间隔增加。通过小波变换方法分离随机波中的波群,研究了出现畸形波的波群特征,发现一个波群中最多会出现4个畸形波,但是在发生畸形波的波群中,单个畸形波的概率最大。随着谱宽减小,一个波群中包含多个畸形波的概率增加。另外,出现畸形波的波群时间长度服从广义极值分布,随着谱宽减小,畸形波波群的时间跨度增加。 相似文献
2.
A numerical irregular wave flume with active absorption of re-reflected waves is simulated by use of volume of fluid （VOF） method. An active ＇absorbing wave-maker based on linear wave theory is set on the left boundary of the wave flume. The progressive waves and the absorbing waves are generated simultaneously at the active wave generating-absorbing boundary. The absorbing waves are generated to eliminate the waves coming back to the generating boundary due to reflection from the outflow boundary and the structures. SIRW method proposed by Frigaard and Brorsen （1995） is used to separate the incident waves and reflected waves. The digital filters are designed based on the surface elevation signals of the two wave gauges. The corrected velocity of the wave-maker paddle is the output from the digital filter in real time. The numerical results of regular and irregular waves by the active absorbing-generating boundary are compared with the numerical results by the ordinary generating boundary to verify the performance of the active absorbing-generator boundary. The differences between the initial incident waves and the estimated incident waves are analyzed. 相似文献
3.
胶州湾湾口海底沙波地形地貌特征及其活动性研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
利用多波束、侧扫声纳以及单道地震资料对胶州湾湾口潮流作用下形成的典型海底沙波地貌的平面形态、剖面特征和分布特点进行了分析研究。根据实测的水文资料计算了不同潮流流速下沙波的瞬时移动速度,推测了直脊型沙波和新月型沙波的形成]化过程:区内新月型沙波在西向优势流的作用下大约以50m/a的速度向西迁移,直脊型沙波则在两端方向不一致的优势流长期作用下,发生逆时针旋转,同时在往复流的作用下以一个平衡位置左右摆动;就地貌形态而言,新月型沙波是不稳定的,直脊型沙波达到相对平衡状态。 相似文献
4.
基于光学遥感MODIS的安达曼海内波时空分布与传播特性研究 总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5
This paper describes investigations of the internal waves in the Andaman Sea using Moderate Resolution Imaging Spectroradiometer(MODIS) imagery over the period of June 2010 to May 2016. Results of the spatial and temporal distribution, generation sources and propagation characteristics of internal waves are presented. The statistical analysis shows that internal waves can be observed in almost the entire area of the Andaman Sea. Most internal waves are observed in the northern, central and southern regions of the Andaman Sea. A significant number of internal waves between 7°N and 9°N in the East Indian Ocean are also observed. Internal waves can be observed year-round in the Andaman Sea, while most of internal waves are observed between February and April, with a maximum frequency of 15.03% in March. The seasonal distribution of the internal waves shows that the internal waves have mostly been observed in the dry season(February to April), and fewer internal waves are observed in the rainy season(May to October). The double peak distribution for the occurrence frequency of internal waves is found. With respect to the lunar influence, more internal waves are observed after the spring tide, which implies the spring tide may play an important role in internal wave generation in the Andaman Sea. Generation sources of internal waves are explored based on the propagation characteristics of internal waves. The results indicate that six sources are located between the Andaman Islands and the Nicobar Islands, and one is located in the northern Andaman Sea. Four regions with active internal wave phenomenon in the Andaman Sea were presented during the MODIS survey, and the propagation speed of internal waves calculated based on the semidiurnal generation period is smaller than the results acquired from pairs of the images with short time intervals. 相似文献
5.
三维极限波的产生方法及特性 总被引：11，自引：2，他引：9
极限破碎波浪是造成海洋结构物破坏的主要因素之一,对极限波浪的产生方法和特性进行研究具有重要的工程意义.利用长波传播快、短波传播慢的原理,从理论上给出了产生三维极限波的方法,利用基于Boussinesq方程的数值模拟对该方法进行了验证,同时研究了中心频率、频率宽度和频谱形式等对极限波浪特性的影响,为该方法的进一步应用提出了建议. 相似文献
6.
7.
胶州湾口海底沙波的类型、特征及发育影响因素 总被引：3，自引：1，他引：3
采用多波束资料对胶州湾口的海底沙波类型、特征进行了研究,发现研究区主要有线性沙波(二维)、沙丘(三维)2种沙波类型。结合水流流速、海底构造和表层沉积物综合分析发现:海底沙波缓坡朝向与优势流向不完全一致,为强流作用的产物,在涨、落潮作用下均可形成;沉积物的多寡是研究区海底沙波类型分布的决定因素,海底松散沉积物较为丰富的地区形成二维沙波。在水动力强大的胶州湾口,沉积物多分布在构造低洼地带,使二维线性沙波的分布与海底断裂延伸方向一致。 相似文献
8.
Experimental study of long wave generation on sloping bottoms 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Low-frequency waves generated on steep (1:10) and mild (1:40) slopes by six series of bichromatic wave groups are studied experimentally. The shorelines for both slopes are replaced by horizontal reaches of small depth. This reduces the reflection of long waves near the shoreline significantly, which for the first time makes possible the explicit observation of outgoing breakpoint forced long waves. The breakpoint and released bound long wave mechanisms on the different slopes are compared. Generally, the breakpoint forced long waves dominate the low-frequency wave field on the steep slope, while the released bound long waves are found to be more significant on the mild slope. Two parameters indexing the effectiveness of the breakpoint mechanism are compared and the normalized slope tends to give more realistic results. Shoaling of bound long waves is analyzed and the shallow-water equilibrium limit ~ h−5/2 exhibits a good prediction of the variation of the bound long waves on both slopes. 相似文献
9.
通过分析实验室风浪资料,研究风浪波高间的相关性以及波群中波高累积概率问题,发现风浪波高间相关性虽然主要发生在相邻波之间,但在隔1个波和隔2个波的波高间仍存在一定的相关性。谱宽度对波高间的相关性产生影响,但在相邻波、隔1个波和隔2个波情形下,谱宽度对波高间的相关性的影响方式不同。在相邻波情形下,谱宽度主要影响较大波高间的相关性,对各种高度波高间的总体相关性影响很小。而在隔1个波和隔2个波情形下,谱宽度对各种高度波高间的总体相关性有明显影响。根据实验结果提出含有波高相关因子的波群中多个波波高累积概率分布。 相似文献
10.
Stability formulae for armour layers of rubble mound breakwaters are usually being applied assuming perpendicular wave attack. Often the effects of oblique waves are neglected. This is however a conservative assumption since the stability of armour slopes generally increases for oblique waves. New wave basin tests have been performed to assess the effects of oblique waves on the stability of rock slopes and the stability of cube armoured rubble mound breakwaters. The physical model tests were focussed on wave directions between perpendicular (0°) and parallel (90°). The test programme included tests with long-crested waves and tests with short-crested waves. The results show that for rock slopes the influence of oblique waves is larger for long-crested waves. Based on the test results a design guideline is provided to account for effects of oblique waves on the stability of rock slopes, armour layers with a double layer of cubes, and armour layers with a single layer of cubes. 相似文献
11.
Miao Guoping Liu Yingzhong
Professor Dept. of Naval Architecture Ocean Engineering Shanghai Jiao Tong University Shanghai 《中国海洋工程》1991,(1)
The analytical study is made by using the method of matched asymptotic expansions on the transmission and reflection of solitary waves and cnoidal waves on two-dimensional floating bodies. The solutions give explicitly the variation pattern of the transmitted waves and the characteristics of the reflected waves, including the wave profile, amplitude, phase shift and evolution. The effects of the gap between the body and the sea bottom on the transmission and reflection of those waves are also discussed. 相似文献
12.
风浪宏观特征量是描述风浪场特征的重要物理量。作者基于风浪有停留在混乱运动状态的趋势的性质对风浪场特征量间的关系进行了研究。主频波频率附近的波动自风摄取能量,风浪吸收的能量通过非线性相互作用在谱中重新分配。谱中能量的重新分配产生多尺度波动,这导致风浪波面的混乱运动(风浪处于混乱运动状态)。在稳定状态,风浪运动最为混乱。当风浪状态偏离最混乱运动状态,谱中非线性相互作用引起的能量重新分配将使风浪回到该状态。基于线性海浪理论导出风浪场特征量间的关系。导出的关系与观测结果进行了对比,发现理论结果与观测结果很好地符合。风浪场宏观特征量间存在固有关系。尽管目前风浪场特征量关系的观测结果存在差异,但本文中证明,所导出的理论关系与实验结果很好地符合。 相似文献
13.
Li Yan-ting Zeng Cheng-jie Yi-han Zhao Hu Po Sun Tian-ting Hou Yi-jun Mo Dong-xue Wang Deng-ting 《中国海洋工程》2022,36(3):413-426
Storm surges are cataclysmic natural disasters that occur along the coasts and are usually accompanied by large waves. The effects of coupled storm surges and waves can pose a significant threat to coastal security. Previous laboratory studies on the effects of storm surges and waves on coastal structures have typically utilized steady water levels and constant wave elements. An indoor simulation of the coupled processes of tides and waves is developed by adding a tide generation system to an existing laboratory wave basin to model continuous dynamic tide levels so that tide generation and wave-making occur synchronously in the pool. Specific experimental methods are given, which are applied to further study waves overtopping on artificial sea dikes and coastal flooding evolution under the coupled actions of tides and waves. The results of the overtopping discharge obtained by the test with a dynamic water level are compared with those obtained from steady water level tests and the existing empirical formula. In addition, the impacts of ecological coastal shelterbelts and structures on coastal flood processes and distributions are also investigated. The proposed simulation methods provide a new approach for studying the effects of storm surges and waves on coastal areas. The study also aims to provide a reference for coastal protective engineering.
相似文献14.
V. G. Bondur Yu. V. Grebenyuk K. D. Sabynin 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2009,45(5):598-607
Based on the results of analyzing the characteristics of currents and temperature measured in the water space of the Mamala
Bay (the Island of Oahu, Hawaii), we investigate the main properties of the field of short-period internal waves, which is
very complex. We focus on analyzing the spectral characteristics and orbit parameters for waves with a period of 20 minutes.
The results of investigations reveal two types of short-period internal waves for this area: intense and fast waves propagating
predominantly toward the ocean and weaker and slower waves propagating mainly toward the coast. Suppositions are made on how
these waves form: the strong and fast waves are likely to be caused by the decay of locally generated internal tides near
the shelf edge, while the weak and slow and very short waves seem to result from the specific interaction between the pycnocline
and strong tidal currents over a steep slope. 相似文献
15.
次重力波在近岸水动力运动过程中起到重要作用,深入地了解次重力波对预防其引发的近岸灾害有着重要意义。结合波浪现场观测方法和数值模拟方法研究了斯里兰卡南部海域次重力波特征。短波和自由次重力波通过海浪谱模型WAVEWATCH III模拟,而约束次重力波通过二阶非线性理论模拟,数值模拟结果与现场观测结果对比吻合良好。研究结果表明,斯里兰卡南部海域大部分时间以自由次重力波为主;在强涌浪海况下（短波波高大于2.5 m,周期大于15 s）约束次重力波逐渐逼近自由次重力波甚至占主导地位;斯里兰卡大陆架极其狭窄,对涌浪的能量损耗作用极为有限,使得近岸面对强劲的涌浪及其伴生的次重力波的侵袭,增大了次重力波引发近岸水动力灾害的风险。 相似文献
16.
LI Yucheng
Professor the State Key Laboratory of Coastal Offshore Engineering Dalian University of Technology Dalian P. R. China. 《中国海洋工程》1999,(2)
-The hydrodynamic coefficients C_d and C_m are not only dependent on the size of slender cylin-der,its location in water,KC number and Re number,but also vary with environmental conditions,i.e.,in regular waves or in irregular waves,in pure waves or in wave-current coexisting field.In this paper,thenormalization of hydrodynamic coefficients for various environmental conditions is discussed.When aproper definition of KC number and proper characteristic values of irregular waves are used,a unified re-lationship between C_d,C_m and KC number for regular waves,irregular waves,pure waves and wave-cur-rent coexisting field can be obtained. 相似文献
17.
Based on the full water-wave equation,a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper.For special case of slope angle β=π/2,this solution can reduced to the same order solution of deep water gravity surface waves traveling along parallel coastline.Interactions between two edge waves including progressive,standing and partially reflected standing waves are also discussed.The unified analytic expressions with transfer functions for kinematic-dynamic elements of edge waves are also given.The random model of the unified wave motion processes for linear and nonlinear irregular edge waves is formulated,and the corresponding theoretical autocorrelation and spectral density functions of the first and the second orders are derived.The boundary conditions for the determination of the parameters of short edge wave are suggested,that may be seen as one special simple edge wave excitation mechanism and an extension to the sea wave refraction theory.Finally some computation results are demonstrated. 相似文献
18.
Stig E. Sand 《Coastal Engineering》1982,6(3):195-208
In recent years the group-induced long waves have received an enhanced degree of attention. Especially in nearshore regions, the long waves can be of considerable height, and consequently the influence on harbour resonance, on the operation of ship terminals, on moorings of large vessels, etc. is obviously very important. It is the grouping of natural wave fields that generates the long waves, and they are proportional to the square of the short-wave height. Therefore, the expressions for the long-wave elevations can be found to include the short-wave components of the wave field and a second-order transfer function. This function is presented in a diagram with dimensionless parameters. For practical purposes a formula for rough estimate of the long-wave height is proposed.The second-order equations show that the long waves are determined by the difference of the wave-number vectors of the short waves. This is shown to imply that the spread of the long waves is larger than that of the short waves, and that the wave lengths of the long waves are dependent on the short-wave spread. Hereby it is possible to change the long-wave lengths, which seems to be a quality of great practical importance.The long waves are also expressed in spectral terms. That is, a formula for the directional long-wave spectrum is shown to comprise the transfer function squared and the short-wave amplitudes and phases. 相似文献
19.
If the upstream boundary conditions are prescribed based on the incident wave only, the time-dependent numerical models cannot effectively simulate the wave field when the physical or spurious reflected waves become significant. This paper describes carefully an approach to specifying the incident wave boundary conditions combined with a set sponge layer to absorb the reflected waves towards the incident boundary. Incorporated into a time-dependent numerical model, whose governing equations are the Boussinesq-type ones, the effectiveness of the approach is studied in detail. The general boundary conditions, describing the down-wave boundary conditions are also generalized to the case of random waves. The numerical model is in detail examined. The test cases include both the normal one-dimensional incident regular or random waves and the two-dimensional oblique incident regular waves. The calculated results show that the present approach is effective on damping the reflected waves towards the incident wave boundary. 相似文献
20.
Hiroshi Takeda 《Journal of Oceanography》1984,40(6):410-415
Waves which propagate along a vertical wall lying in an arbitrary direction on aβ-plane are derived as a generalization of Haurwitz waves (Haurwitz, 1940) whose direction of propagation is restricted to
the east-west direction. The waves are classified into two types. One consists of neutral waves, which correspond to a generalization
of Haurwitz waves. The other consists of waves with complex wavenumber and without energy flux. The phase of the waves also
propagates in the direction normal to the coast in an envelope except for the case in which the coast lies in the east-west
direction. 相似文献