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1.
A new method for separation of 2D incident and reflected waves by the Morlet wavelet transform 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
A new method based on the Morlet wavelet transform for separating a 2D wave field into incident and reflected waves is proposed in this paper. The principle of this method, first, is derived for constant depths. Then, using the linear shoaling theory, the method is extended to an arbitrary sloping bathymetry. Owing to the time-frequency characteristic of wavelet transform, the present method can separate waves in the real time domain and is not confined by the stationary assumption of waves. The efficiency and accuracy of this method are demonstrated using numerical simulated data. 相似文献
2.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,38(3):167-176
An existing 2D method for separating incident and reflected waves over a horizontal bed [Frigaard, P., Brorsen, M., 1995. A time domain method for separating incident and reflected irregular waves. Coastal Eng., 24, 205–215.] is modified to account for normally incident linear waves propagating over a bed with arbitrary 2D bathymetry. Linear shoaling is used to determine the amplitude and phase change between two measurement positions; thereafter the existing technique can be applied. Comparisons between the existing and modified methods are made using numerically simulated data. Errors in the reflection coefficient are found to be small for large reflection coefficients, but may become large if reflection is low. However, if an accurate assessment of the amplitude of the incident and reflected wave trains is required, the bathymetry must be accounted for in order to avoid significant errors (up to 90% for cases considered). 相似文献
3.
CHANG Hsien-Kuo 《中国海洋工程》2002,16(4):499-511
This study presents a three-point method for separating incident and reflected waves to explain normally incident waves' propagating over a sloping bed. Linear wave shoaling is used to determine changes in wave amplitude and phase in response to variations of bathymetry. The wave reflection coefficient and incident amplitude are estimated from wave heights measured at three fixed wave gauges with unequal spacing. Sensitivity analysis demonstrates that the proposed method can predict the reflection and amplitude of waves over a sloping bed more accurately than the two-point method. 相似文献
4.
Hilbert Transform Applied to Separation of Waves 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The analytical method (AM) for separation of composite waves is presented based on the Hilbert transform. It is ap-plicable to both regular and irregular trains of waves. The wave data series measured with two wave gauges in the experi-ments are separated into two series of incident and reflected waves. Then, the reflection coefficient can be easily ob-tained. The arrival of reflected waves can also be detected for improvement of the accuracy of the reflection coefficient.The reflection performance of the physical model can be estimated exactly without calculation of wave height and phasedifference. Numerical samples developed to test the method are proved to be accurate. Physical experiments are conduct-ed and compared with Goda‘s method and satisfactory results are obtained. 相似文献
5.
The analytical method (AM) for separation of composite waves is presented based on the Hilbert transform. It is ap-plicable to both regular and irregular trains of waves. The wave data series measured with two wave gauges in the experi-ments are separated into two series of incident and reflected waves. Then, the reflection coefficient can be easily ob-tained. The arrival of reflected waves can also be detected for improveraent of the accuracy of the reflection coefficient. The reflection performance of the physical model can be estimated exactly without calculation of wave height and phase difference. Numerical samples developed to test the method are proved to be accurate. Physical experiments are conduct-ed and compared with Goda s method and satisfactory results are obtained. 相似文献
6.
Zhu Liangsheng Sui Shifeng
Associate Professor South China Sea Institute of Oceanology Chinese Academy of Science Guangzhou Professor South China Sea Institute of Oceanology Chinese Academy of Science Guangzhou 《中国海洋工程》1997,(3)
Some researches have been made in this aspect.In the method by Walton Jr.(1992),incidentwaves are supposed to be the overlapping result of M component waves with different frequencies whichmay take different directions,the direction of incident waves should be available in advance,but in fact thedirection of incident waves is not available.In our study,incident waves are supposed to be composed ofM overlapping component waves with different frequencies,and different frequencies have different direc-tions.Based on the irregular wave reflection theory,the calculation formulas of wave direction,complexamplitude of incident waves,and complex amplitude of reflected waves in surface which are composed ofcomponent waves are derived by means of discrete Fourier transform.Then,the frequency spectra of inci-dent waves and reflected waves and the reflection coefficient of waves with corresponding frequencies areobtained.Verification of the method and the calculation results from in-situ measured data indicate thatt 相似文献
7.
8.
This work presents a frequency-domain method for estimating incident and reflected waves when normally incident waves’ propagating over a sloping beach in a wave flume is considered. Linear wave shoaling is applied to determine changes of the wave amplitude and phase due to variations of the bathymetry. The wave reflection coefficient is estimated using wave heights measured at two fixed wave gauges with a distance. The present model demonstrates a high capacity of estimating reflection and shoaling coefficients from synthetic wave-amplitude data. Sensitivity tests for the present model due to measurement errors of wave amplitudes and distance of two probes can more accurately predict the reflection coefficients. The measurement error of wave amplitude affects more significantly than measurement error of distance of two probes on calculating reflection coefficient of waves over a sloping bed. 相似文献
9.
A three-point method for estimating wave reflection is proposed to account for monochromatic oblique incident waves propagating over a sloping beach. The amplitudes of reflected wave and incident wave are separated using wave amplitudes measured at three fixed wave gauges with a distance. The applicability of the theory is verified by comparing the simulated results with the available theoretical, numerical and experimental results for the estimation of wave reflection. The sensitivity is also tested to provide a more accurate prediction of the reflection coefficient. 相似文献
10.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(7):545-555
In the paper, the three-dimensional structure of the wave-induced momentum flux in irrotational waves propagating over a two-dimensional, irregular bathymetry is analyzed. The expansion method developed by de Vriend and Kitou [de Vriend, H.J., Kitou, N., 1990a. Incorporation of wave effects in a 3D hydrostatic mean current model. Delft Hydraulics Report H-1295. de Vriend, H.J., Kitou, N., 1990b. Incorporation of wave effects in a 3D hydrostatic mean current model. Proc. 22nd Int. Coast. Eng. Conf. ASCE, 1005–1018.] for unidirectional waves has been extended to derive expressions for velocity components in three-dimensional waves over sloping bottom. The vertical wave-induced momentum flux resulting from this solution has been shown to be vertically-varying (contrary to the 2D-V case) and to act as a counterbalance for the vertical variability of the other wave forcing terms in the momentum equations. Thus, the total wave forcing remains depth-invariant, but—contrary to the ‘traditional’ solution based on the radiation stress concept—it does not depend explicitly on the direction of wave propagation and is a simple function of gradients of wave energy and water depth only. One of the most important consequences of this fact is the lack of the longshore-current-generating force in the case of non-dissipative waves approaching a shore with a bottom profile uniform in the along-shore direction. To illustrate the meaning of the new solution, the wave forcing due to waves approaching a barred beach has been analysed in detail. Also, the present solution has been shown to give the same results as the one obtained by extending of the approach by Rivero and Arcilla [Rivero, F.J., Arcilla, A.S., 1995. On the vertical distribution of 〈ũw˜〉. Coast. Eng. 25, 137–152.] to three dimensions. 相似文献
11.
利用连续小波提取近海大气湍流中的相干结构 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
利用Morlet子波对南海塔基风脉动资料进行连续小波分析,并根据能量极大值法则辨识相干结构的尺度,从而构建基于相干结构主要尺度的湍流模型。通过对小波系数进行谱分析,得到相干结构的生成周期,进而刻画相干结构的演变特征。结果表明:相干尺度提取的准周期结构在数值和波形上能够很好的反映原信号的主要结构。在分析频段内,大气湍流相干结构的生命尺度和生成周期相近,相干结构以连续出现为主,而小尺度涡旋结构的生成存在明显的不连续。最后,结合观测期间天气过程以及相应的湍流统计特征分析,给出了典型天气条件下相干结构涡动能量分布及其随时间的变化特征。 相似文献
12.
斜向和多向不规则波在斜坡堤上的平均越浪量的试验研究 总被引：3，自引：1，他引：3
通过三维物理模型试验研究了在斜坡堤上斜向和多向不规则波在非破碎条件下的平均越浪量与波浪参数及堤参数的关系.着重考察了波浪以小角度(0°~30°)斜向入射时平均越浪量的变化情况,肯定了多向波的越浪量在这一范围内有所谓“小角度斜向增加”的现象,但否定了单向波也具有这一现象.在考察波浪的方向分布影响时发现波浪斜向入射时多向波的越浪量往往要比单向波的大.比较了已有的相关研究成果,给出了适用于混凝土护面和扭工字块体护面斜坡堤上斜向和多向不规则波的平均越浪量的估算公式. 相似文献
13.
Application of desingularized approach to water wave propagation over three-dimensional topography 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
A numerical approach based on desingularized boundary element method and mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian formulation [Zhang et al., 2006. Wave propagation in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank: a desingularized method. Ocean Engineering 33, 2310–2331] is extended to solve the water wave propagation over arbitrary topography in a three-dimensional wave tank. A robust damping layer applicable for regular and irregular incident waves is employed to minimize the outgoing wave reflection back into the wave tank. Numerical results on the propagation of regular and irregular incident waves over the flat bottom and linear incident waves over an elliptical shoal show good concurrence with the corresponding analytical solutions and experimental data. 相似文献
14.
1 .ＩｎｔｒｏｄｕｃｔｉｏｎＴｏｍｅａｓｕｒｅｔｈｅｒｅｆｌｅｃｔｉｏｎｏｆｉｎｃｉｄｅｎｔｗａｖｅｓｐｒｏｄｕｃｅｄｂｙａｐｈｙｓｉｃａｌｍｏｄｅｌｉｎａｗａｖｅｆｌｕｍｅｉｓａｃｏｍｍｏｎｐｒｏｂｌｅｍｗｉｔｈｐｈｙｓｉｃａｌｔｅｓｔｓｏｆｗａｖｅａｃｔｉｏｎｏｎｃｏａｓｔａｌｓｔｒｕｃｔｕｒｅｓ .Ｗａｖｅｓｇｅｎｅｒａｔｅｄｂｙｔｈｅｗａｖｅ ｍａｋｅｒｐｒｏｐａｇａｔｅｆｏｒｗａｒｄｉｎｔｈｅｗａｖｅｆｌｕｍｅａｎｄａｒｅｒｅｆｌｅｃｔｅｄｂｙｔｈｅｐｈｙｓｉｃａｌｍｏｄｅｌ,ａｎｄｔｈｅ… 相似文献
15.
Steven A. Hughes 《Coastal Engineering》1993,20(3-4)
Most coastal and ocean engineering laboratories employ techniques that use two or three spatially separated wave gages to estimate reflection of irregular waves in two-dimensional wave flumes. This paper presents a frequency domain method for separating incident and reflected wave spectra from co-located gages (gages located on the same vertical line). The technique is based on linear wave theory, and it can be applied to time series of sea surface elevation and horizontal water velocity collected in a vertical array, or it can be used with horizontal and vertical water velocity time series collected at the same point in the water column. Application of the method is limited to those frequencies showing good coherence between time series signals. Outside the range of good coherence, gross inaccuracies occur.The utility of the co-located gage method is illustrated using water velocity data collected in a wave flume with a laser Doppler velocimeter, and the method is validated for the case of complete reflection by a vertical wall. Side-by-side comparison to the spatially-separated wave gage method of Goda and Suzuki (1976) exhibited close agreement for a variety of irregular wave trains being weakly reflected by a mild sloping beach. The co-located gage method is useful in situations where there are spatial variations in the wavelength, such as on a mildly sloping bottom, or in the region close to highly reflective structures where errors arising from spatial variations in characteristic wave parameters would corrupt estimates made using the spatially-separated wave gage method. 相似文献
16.
斜向入射波与反射波的分离 总被引：7，自引：0，他引：7
提出了一种分离斜向入射波和反射波的方法,波浪可以是规则波、不规则波,波向可以任意.在一定的限制条件下,采用两点浪高仪的波浪信号就可将斜向入射波和反射波分离. 相似文献
17.
The Goda's method of separating the frequency spectrum of the unidirectional incident and reflected waves is improved. The proposed method can be applied to the separation of oblique incident and reflected waves and the two wave gauges can be arranged in an arbitrary angle in front of a structure. When the projected distance of the two probes on the incident wave direction is the multiple ofthe half length of the incident waves, the singular problem will emerge by using the method. It is advised that when the projected distance of the two measured points on the incident wave direction is 0.05～0.45 times the wave length of peak frequency wave, good results can be obtained. The simulated resultant waves are separated by the method of numerical simulation and the separated wave spectra are basically corresponding to the target spectra input. The wave trains calculated by the separated incident and reflected wave frequency spectrum are approximated to the input wave trains and the reflected coefficient can be derived correctly. Therefore, the method proposed in this paper is reliable. 相似文献
18.
A numerical irregular wave flume with active absorption of re-reflected waves is simulated by use of volume of fluid （VOF） method. An active ＇absorbing wave-maker based on linear wave theory is set on the left boundary of the wave flume. The progressive waves and the absorbing waves are generated simultaneously at the active wave generating-absorbing boundary. The absorbing waves are generated to eliminate the waves coming back to the generating boundary due to reflection from the outflow boundary and the structures. SIRW method proposed by Frigaard and Brorsen （1995） is used to separate the incident waves and reflected waves. The digital filters are designed based on the surface elevation signals of the two wave gauges. The corrected velocity of the wave-maker paddle is the output from the digital filter in real time. The numerical results of regular and irregular waves by the active absorbing-generating boundary are compared with the numerical results by the ordinary generating boundary to verify the performance of the active absorbing-generator boundary. The differences between the initial incident waves and the estimated incident waves are analyzed. 相似文献
19.
1.IntroductionGreat efforts have been devoted to the protection of coastal areas over many years by erectingdikes,seawalls,groin systems,and detached breakwaters.The sea walls,jetties,detached breakwa-ters,etc.are traditionally adopted as absorbingfacilit… 相似文献
20.
A time-dependent extended mild-slope equation is derived from the elliptic equation of Chamberlain and Porter [J. Fluid Mech. 291 (1995) 393] using the Taylor series technique. Numerical tests are made on a horizontally one-dimensional case for regular waves over sloping beds and for both regular and irregular waves over a ripple patch. Numerical results prove that the proposed model gives accurate results for both regular and irregular waves over rapidly varying topography. 相似文献