共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 598 毫秒
1.
为研究内孤立波的地形和背景流共振机制,用地形和背景流共振机制计算了3个潜标观测的内孤立波(不同模态、不同波长)的流速和传播速度,并与观测到的内孤立波进行比较。潜标观测的第一模态内孤立波(波长分别为6.4和3.3km)都是下凹型内孤立波,2个内孤立波的传播速度约为1.4m/s、最大振幅约为48m,水平流向结构都是上层西北向、下层东南向,波长3.3km 的内孤立波波峰前后有更明显的下降流和上升流。用共振机制计算出的第一模态和第二模态纬向流速的垂向结构与观测相同,最大纬向流速出现的深度与观测一致,分别相差5和12m。用共振机制计算出的内孤立波传播速度与用 KdV 方程计算的传播速度相当,共振机制计算波速为0.66~1.21m/s,KdV 方程计算波速为0.79~1.40m/s。 相似文献
2.
This paper describes a simple method for determining the wavelength of small amplitude waves under laboratory conditions where reflected wave components are present both with and without a mean current flow superimposed. It assumes a locally horizontal bed but requires no a priori assumption concerning the form of the dispersion relation with a coexisting current. Synchronous measurements of the water surface recorded along any straight line are analysed to yield Fourier coefficients at each location. It is then shown that for all practical conditions excluding a perfect standing wave, the average rate of change of wave phase in the chosen direction can be related directly to the component of incident wave number in that direction, irrespective of reflection coefficient or relative current strength. The technique has been applied to regular and bichromatic waves in a flume with an absorbing wave generator, and can also be applied in 3-D wave basins where waves and currents intersect at arbitrary angles. In combined wave–current experiments, by assuming the linear dispersion relation, it is also possible to estimate the effective current velocity. 相似文献
3.
Yoshiaki Toba Masayuki Tokuda Kuniaki Okuda Sanshiro Kawai 《Journal of Oceanography》1975,31(5):192-198
Wind-wave tunnel experiments reveal, by use of techniques of the flow visualization, that wind waves are accompanied by the wind drift surface current with large velocity shear and with horizontal variation of velocity relative to the wave profile. The surface current converges from the crest to a little leeward face of the crest, making a downward flow there, even though the wave is not breaking. Namely, wind waves are accompanied by forced convections relative to the crests of the waves. Since the location of the convergence and the downward flow travels on the water surface as the crest of the wave propagates, the motion as a whole is characterized by turbulent structure as well as by the nature of water-surface waves. In this meaning, the term of real wind waves is proposed in contrast with ordinary water waves. The study of real wind waves will be essential in future development of the study of wind waves. 相似文献
4.
Higher Harmonics Induced by Waves Propagating over A Submerged Obstacle in the Presence of Uniform Current 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
To investigate higher harmonics induced by a submerged obstacle in the presence of uniform current, a 2D fully nonlinear numerical wave flume（NWF） is developed by use of a time-domain higher-order boundary element method（HOBEM） based on potential flow theory. A four-point method is developed to decompose higher bound and free harmonic waves propagating upstream and downstream around the obstacle. The model predictions are in good agreement with the experimental data for free harmonics induced by a submerged horizontal cylinder in the absence of currents. This serves as a benchmark to reveal the current effects on higher harmonic waves. The peak value of non-dimensional second free harmonic amplitude is shifted upstream for the opposing current relative to that for zero current with the variation of current-free incident wave amplitude, and it is vice versa for the following current. The second-order analysis shows a resonant behavior which is related to the ratio of the cylinder diameter to the second bound mode wavelength over the cylinder. The second-order resonant position slightly downshifted for the opposing current and upshifted for the following current. 相似文献
5.
The propagation,shoaling and breaking of solitary waves on mild slopes are simulated byboundary element method.In this paper,the criterion of breaking solitary waves on mild slopes is discussed.The criterion is that the ratio of horizontal velocity of water particles on the wave crest to wave celerity equalsone.However,the case that the ratio of horizontal velocity of water particles on the wave crest to wave ce-lerity is below one but the front face of wave profile becomes vertical is also considered as a breaking criteri-on.According to the above criteria,the breaking index for slopes 1:10 to 1:25 is studied.The result is com-pared to other researchers'.The deformation of solitary waves on slopes is discussed and the distribution offluid velocities at breaking is shown. 相似文献
6.
- Starting from satellite remote sensing data, the dynamical processes of shear waves occurring at the boundary between the western boundary current and the shelf slope water are studied and dynamically analyzed in this study. The average wavelength is 75 km, and the average amplitude (from crest to trough )17 km. the average phase speed 100 cms-1 for the shear waves along the north wall of the Gulf Stream to the east of Cape Hatteras measured from NOAA satellite IR (infrared ) images. The average wavelength of shear waves along the north wall of the Kuroshio Current is 57 km, and the average amplitude 17 km. For the shear waves occurring along the west wall of the Gulf Stream to the south of Cape Hatteras, the average wavelength is 131 km, and the average amplitude 33 km measured from Seasat SAR (synthetic aperture radar )images. The time for one cycle of shear wave event is about one week.In order to explore the dynamical mechanisms of shear waves, we solved the vorticity equation for a stratified flu 相似文献
7.
The horizontal exchange of momentum due to the organized motion in combined waves and current has been analyzed. The combination of the vertical orbital wave motion and the mean current gives a periodic variation in the horizontal velocity in addition to the wave orbital motion. This periodic variation, combined with the wave orbital motion, gives a significant contribution to the momentum exchange. Two examples are considered, the interaction of a pure wave motion and a current normal to the direction of wave propagation, and a wave driven longshore current with an undertow velocity profile. It is demonstrated that the new contribution changes the resulting momentum exchange considerably. 相似文献
8.
《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(11-12):1505-1515
The interaction between current and flexural gravity waves generated due to a floating elastic plate is analyzed in two dimensions under the assumptions of linearized theory. For plane flexural gravity waves, explicit expressions for the water particle dynamics and trajectory are derived. The effect of current on the wavelength, phase velocity and group velocity of the flexural gravity waves is analyzed. Variations in wavelength and wave height due to the changes in current speed and direction are analyzed. Effects of structural rigidity and water depth on wavelength are discussed in brief. Simple numerical computations are performed and presented graphically to explain most of the theoretical findings in a lucid manner. 相似文献
9.
The accuracy of several asymptotic series expansions for wave speed and particle velocity under the crest of a solitary wave (on a fluid at rest) up to maximum height is investigated. The very accurate numerical results of Williams (1985) are the measure for our comparisons. The results are based on a scaling of calculated properties of long periodic waves to the case of solitary waves.For wave speeds the classical Boussinesq–Rayleigh expression gives good agreement up to a relative wave height of, say, 0.3. An asymptotic fourth-order expression based on Fenton (1990) can be used up to a relative wave height of 0.7, whereas the corresponding fifth-order expression is slightly less accurate.The Eulerian particle velocity profile under the wave crest is examined using a cnoidal wave expression from Fenton (1990) in the limit of the solitary wave. For low waves a `consistent' (i.e. properly truncated) fifth-order expression and an `inconsistent' ditto both coincide with Williams' results. Beginning at medium high waves, the consistent expression surprisingly exhibits oscillations in the velocity profile, and the oscillations become stronger as the wave gets higher. The inconsistent expression, however, yields the same shape as Williams' profile, but is displaced parallel to this, resulting in slightly larger velocities. For high waves also the inconsistent expression begins to differ in shape from Williams' profile, and asymptotic theory fails. Only for low waves `lowest order theory' gives acceptable results. We show analytically that for the highest wave the particle velocity profile has a horizontal tangent at the water surface; this is corroborated by Williams' numerical results.We also study the particle velocity at the wave crest as a function of wave height. It is shown that the variation has a vertical tangent for the highest wave. Two fifth-order asymptotic series for this velocity, based on the wave speed through the Bernoulli equation, show very good agreement with Williams up to a relative wave height of about 0.6.It is finally shown that it is possible to produce very accurate rational-function approximations to Williams' results for the wave speed as well as for the particle velocity at the wave crest. 相似文献
10.
为研究孤立波作用下结构物周围流场特征,基于无网格SPH方法,建立孤立波与海洋结构物相互作用模型,对不同波幅孤立波作用下部分淹没矩形结构物周围波面、流速、涡量及结构受力特征进行计算分析,探索了相对波高对非淹没结构物周围流场的影响规律。结果表明:流场特征与相对波高密切相关,相对波高较小时,波面、流速、涡量及结构荷载均较为光滑,相对波高在0.2以上时,波峰爬升至结构物顶部并在越过结构物后与水槽内水体碰撞造成流场波动,波面、流速、涡量及结构荷载的波动幅度随着相对波高增大而增大,流场更加复杂,结构物水平和垂向负压也越大,且结构物周围涡分布逐渐向深度方向和下游方向发展。 相似文献
11.
海南岛西南海底沙波活动及底床冲淤变化 总被引：17，自引：0，他引：17
为了研究沙波迁移对底床稳定性的影响,通过对比分析2004—2006年连续3年的多波束海底地貌扫描数据,得出研究区域海底沙波的波长为5.8~91.8 m,波高0.1~4.3 m,陡峭度0.013~0.12,对称指数0.32~6.52。沙波的移动速率最大48.8 m/a,移动方向在研究区域西部为SE向,中部呈往复迁移,东部为NW向;沙波不同部位的迁移速率不同,一般的沙波尾翼迁移速率较大;同一组沙波存在反向扭转迁移的现象,反向扭转迁移的轴线位于研究区域沙脊的脊线附近,这种反向迁移不仅与底层流作用有关,还与海底地形关系密切;西部海底底床处于侵蚀状态,局部最大侵蚀量可达1.3 m,东部处于堆积状态,最大堆积量达2.8 m。 相似文献
12.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,36(3):171-195
A morphological stability analysis is carried out for a long straight coast with a longshore bar. The situation with oblique wave incidence and a wave-driven longshore current is considered. The flow and sediment transport are described by a numerical modelling system. The models comprise: (i) a wave model with depth refraction, shoaling and wave breaking, (ii) a depth integrated model for wave driven currents and (iii) a sediment transport model for the bed load transport and the suspended load transport in combined waves and current. The direction of the sediment transport is taken to be parallel to the depth integrated mean current velocity, neglecting the effects of a bed slope and secondary currents. An instability is found to develop around the bar crest. The instability is periodic in the alongshore direction, and tends to form rip channels and to steepen the offshore face of the bar between the rip channels. The alongshore wave length of the most unstable perturbation is determined for different combinations of the wave conditions and the geometry of the profile. 相似文献
13.
The present paper proposes a numerical model to determine horizontal and vertical components of the hydrodynamic forces on a slender submarine pipeline lying at the sea bed and exposed to non-linear waves plus a current. The new model is an extension of the Wake II type model, originally proposed for sinusoidal waves (Soedigdo et al., 1999) and for combined sinusoidal waves and currents (Sabag et al., 2000), to the case of periodic or random waves, even with a superimposed current. The Wake II type model takes into account the wake effects on the kinematic field and the time variation of drag and lift hydrodynamic coefficients. The proposed extension is based on an evolutional analysis carried out for each half period of the free stream horizontal velocity at the pipeline. An analytical expression of the wake velocity is developed starting from the Navier–Stokes and the boundary layer equations. The time variation of the drag and lift hydrodynamic coefficients is obtained using a Gaussian integration of the start-up function. A reduced scale laboratory investigation in a large wave flume has been conducted in order to calibrate the empirical parameters involved in the proposed model. Different wave and current conditions have been considered and measurements of free stream horizontal velocities and dynamic pressures on a bottom-mounted pipeline have been conducted. The comparison between experimental and numerical hydrodynamic forces shows the accuracy of the new model in evaluating the time variation of peaks and phase shifts of the horizontal and vertical wave and current induced forces. 相似文献
14.
Based on the Hamiltonian formulation of water waves, using Hamiltonian consistent modelling methods, we derive higher order Hamiltonian equations by Taylor expansions of the potential and the vertical velocity around the still water level. The polynomial expansion in wave height is mixed with pseudo-differential operators that preserve the exact dispersion relation. The consistent approximate equations have inherited the Hamiltonian structure and give exact conservation of the approximate energy. In order to deal with breaking waves, we extend the eddy-viscosity model of Kennedy et al. (2000) to be applicable for fully dispersive equations. As breaking trigger mechanism we use a kinematic criterion based on the quotient of horizontal fluid velocity at the crest and the crest speed. The performance is illustrated by comparing simulations with experimental data for an irregular breaking wave with a peak period of 12 s above deep water and for a bathymetry induced periodic wave plunging breaker over a trapezoidal bar. The comparisons show that the higher order models perform quite well; the extension with the breaking wave mechanism improves the simulations significantly. 相似文献
15.
基于Boussinesq水波模型的聚焦波模拟 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
基于最高导数为3阶的单层Boussinesq方程,建立了聚焦波的时域波浪计算模型。数值模型求解采用了预报?校正的有限差分法。对于时间差分格式,预报和校正分别采用3阶Adams-Bashforth格式和4阶Adams-Moulton格式。首先,针对不同水深条件下水槽中传播的强非线性波进行模拟,并将数值结果与流函数的数值解析解进行了比较,结果表明无论是波面位移、波面处的水平速度和垂向速度均与解析解符合较好,最大波峰面的速度分布伴随水深的增加与解析解吻合程度变差,非线性速度分布的适用范围与线性解析解适应范围kh<3.5基本一致。其次,对深水聚焦波演化进行了模拟研究,研究中聚焦波的生成采用在边界点累加不同频率线性规则波的方法。应用聚焦波物理模型实验结果验证模型,计算聚焦位置处的波面位移和沿水深的速度分布与实验结果的对比表明,波面位移吻合程度较好,垂向的水平速度分布基本吻合。最后,保持中心频率(周期)不变,数值模拟了周期范围变化下最大聚焦波峰面以及波峰面水平速度的变化趋势,结果表明波峰面值和波峰面水平速度随着周期范围缩小而增大。 相似文献
16.
In the Boussinesq approximation, we study weakly nonlinear topographic waves trapped by a flat slope of arbitrary orientation. We compute the mean currents induced by the waves due to the nonlinearity in the quadratic approximation with respect to the wave amplitude in the presence of dissipation of the wave energy into the turbulent motion. In the diffusion approximation, we determine the vertical distribution of the concentration of wave-suspended sediments. It is shown that the consumption of sediments across the isobaths is directed downward along the slope. At the same time, the consumption of sediments along the isobaths has the same direction as the projection of the horizontal wave vector. 相似文献
17.
In recent years, instrumentation for field flow measurements has become more and more sophisticated. In particular, local pressure and velocity are measured at frequency rates up to at least 2 Hz, which gives information on wave energy. The present work describes the methods for partially standing wave measurement in the presence of current by use of coincident measurements of both horizontal velocity and pressure, or vertical velocity. Reflection calculated from either coincident horizontal and vertical velocities or three-gauge methods are compared. They are based on existing experiments carried out in an ocean wave basin for both regular and irregular waves in the presence of current. Applications to field measurements, out of and in the breaking zones are then presented. In the nearshore, coincident horizontal and vertical velocities far from the bottom, and coincident horizontal velocity and pressure close to the bottom give relevant information concerning partially standing waves. 相似文献
18.
为了研究真实海洋表面马蹄波的波形特征,通过物理模型试验研究了马蹄波的波形特征参数。研究中通过引入满足共振条件的扰动波成功在试验室内产生了马蹄波,测量和分析了马蹄波的波面升高和水平弧形波峰的几何特征,定义了新的垂向几何参数和水平几何特征参数,给出了不同水深情况下的这些参数的结果,得出了水深对马蹄波几何形态的影响。理论分析了马蹄波的横向结果,并与试验测量结果和弧形处理结果进行了对比。结果表明,马蹄波波形受水深影响较大;水深越浅,马蹄波的波面形状越接近椭圆余弦波,横向波长也越大。 相似文献
19.
中等海况下,星载合成孔径雷达(Synthetic Aperture Radar,SAR)已经广泛应用于海洋动力环境要素的监测(风场、波浪、流场)。近年来,SAR高海况遥感,尤其是探测台风海面风场、巨浪、流场已经成为国内外研究热点,并突破了一些关键技术。利用SAR多极化成像模式对海观测和新发展的地球物理模式函数,可以提取高海况下的海面风速、风向、有效波高、流速和流向等海洋表面关键物理参数。这些环境要素可以用于海洋灾害监测预警;为海洋和大气数值模式提供准确的初始场和同化源,改进模式预报精度;为研究全球气候变化提供有力的观测依据。 相似文献