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1.
Modelled channel patterns in a schematized tidal inlet   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
Tidal inlets in the Dutch Wadden Sea show typical morphological features, i.e. westward oriented main inlet channel and ebb-tidal delta. The objective of this study is to find the governing physical processes of these morphological features. The study uses a 2DH process-based morphodynamic model (Delft3D) on a schematized model domain, with dimensions similar to the Ameland inlet in the Dutch Wadden Sea.Starting from a flat bed the models are forced by tides only. Short-term simulations are made to explore the hydrodynamic characteristics and initial sedimentation and erosion patterns. Long-term morphodynamic simulations are employed to investigate the governing parameters of the main inlet channel and the ebb-tidal delta evolution. Sensitivity of the evolution is described in terms of initial inlet width (1.0 km and 3.5 km), direction and asymmetry of tidal forcing (M2, M4), transport formulations (Van Rijn, 1993; Engelund and Hansen, 1967) and relative position of the tidal basin with respect to the inlet (East (existing), Middle, and West).The results tend to produce morphological features typical to the Ameland inlet. The direction of tidal forcing is the main governing parameter to the present orientation of the main inlet channel and the ebb-tidal delta. The model results generally prove the conceptual hypotheses that describe the orientation of the main inlet channel and the ebb-tidal delta.  相似文献   

2.
Morphodynamics of ebb-tidal deltas: a model approach   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
The results of 2DH numerical models of the Frisian Inlet (located in the Dutch Wadden Sea) are discussed to gain further knowledge about the physical mechanisms causing the presence of both ebb-tidal deltas and of channels and shoals in tide-dominated inlet systems. A hydrodynamic model, extended with sediment transport formulations, was used to verify earlier conceptual models that deal with ebb-tidal delta characteristics. The model does not confirm their hypothesis concerning the observed spatial asymmetry of ebb-tidal deltas and suggests that long-term morphological simulations are needed to understand this aspect. Furthermore, the model indicates that the initial formation of the ebb-tidal delta is mainly due to convergence of the tidally averaged sediment flux related to residual currents, whilst the net sediment transport in the basin is mainly caused by tidal asymmetry. A second model (accounting for feedbacks between tidal motion and the erodible bottom) was used to simulate the long-term bathymetric evolution of the Frisian Inlet under fair weather conditions. This model reproduces the gross characteristics of the observed morphology: the presence of a double-inlet system with two distinct ebb-tidal deltas having different sizes and the presence of channels and shoals. The role of the ‘Engelsmanplaat’, a consolidated shoal in the middle of the Frisian Inlet, was not found to be crucial for the morphodynamic stability of this inlet system.  相似文献   

3.
《Marine Geology》2006,225(1-4):23-44
The morphodynamics of inlets and ebb-tidal deltas reflect the interaction between wave and tidal current-driven sediment transport and significantly influence the behaviour of adjacent shorelines. Studies of inlet morphodynamics have tended to focus on sand-dominated coastlines and reference to gravel-dominated or ‘gravel-rich’ inlets is rare. This work characterises and conceptualises the morphodynamics of a meso-tidal sand–gravel inlet at the mouth of the Deben estuary, southeast England. Behaviour of the inlet and ebb-tidal delta over the last 200 yr is analysed with respect to planform configuration and bathymetry. The estuary inlet is historically dynamic, with ebb-tidal shoals exhibiting broadly cyclic behaviour on a 10 to 30 yr timescale. Quantification of inlet parameters for the most recent cycle (1981–2003) indicate an average ebb delta volume of 1 × 106 m3 and inlet cross-sectional area of 775 m2. Bypassing volumes provide a direct indicator of annual longshore sediment transport rate over this most recent cycle of 30–40 × 103 m3 yr 1. Short-term increases in total ebb-tidal delta volume are linked to annual variability in the north to northeasterly wind climate. The sediment bypassing mechanism operating in the Deben inlet is comparable to the ‘ebb delta breaching’ model of FitzGerald [FitzGerald, D.M., 1988. Shoreline erosional–depositional processes associated with tidal inlets, in: Aubrey, D.G., Weishar, L. (Ed.), Hydrodynamics and Sediment Dynamics of Tidal Inlets. Springer-Verlag Inc., New York, pp. 186–225.], although the scales and rates of change exhibited are notably different to sand-dominated systems. A systematic review of empirical models of sand-dominated inlet and ebb-tidal delta morphodynamics (e.g. those of [O'Brien, M.P., 1931. Estuary tidal prisms related to entrance areas. Civil Engineering, 1, 738–739.; Walton, T.L., and Adams, W.D., 1976. Capacity of inlet outer bars to store sand. Proceedings of 15th Coastal Engineering Conference, 1919–1937.; Gaudiano, D.J., Kana, T.W., 2001. Shoal bypassing in mixed energy inlets: geomorphic variables and empirical predictions for nine South Carolina inlets. J. Coast. Res., 17, (2), 280–291.]) shows the Deben system to be significantly smaller yet characterised by a longer bypassing cycle than would be expected for its tidal prism. This is attributed to its coarse-grained sedimentology and the lower efficiency of sediment transporting processes.  相似文献   

4.
The Otzum ebb-tidal delta, located between Langeoog and Spiekeroog islands along the East Frisian barrier-island coast, southern North Sea, was investigated with respect to its morphological evolution, sediment distribution patterns and internal sedimentary structures. Bathymetric charts reveal that, over the last 50 years, the size of the Otzum ebb-tidal delta has slightly shrunk, while sediment has accreted on the ebb-delta lobe to the east of the main inlet channel (west of Spiekeroog). Swash bars superimposed on the eastern ebb-tidal shoal (Robben Plate) have migrated south or south-eastwards, i.e. towards the inlet throat. The main ebb-delta body is composed of fine quartz sand, whereas the superimposed swash bars and the inlet channel bed consist of medium-grained quartz sand containing high proportions of coarser bioclastic material. Internal sedimentary structures in short box-cores (up to 30 cm long) are dominated by flood-oriented cross-beds. Longer vibro-cores (up to 1.5 m long) show that, at depth, the sediment is dominated by storm-generated parallel (upper plane bed) laminations with intercalated shell layers and dune cross-bedding. The cross-bedded sands in both box-cores and vibro-cores from the ebb-delta shoal predominantly dip towards the south or southeast, indicating transport towards the inlet throat by the flood current. The observations demonstrate that, contrary to previous contentions, the sediments of the highly mobile swash bars do not bypass the inlet but are instead being continually recirculated by the combined action of tidal currents and waves. In this model, the cycle begins with both fine and medium sands, including shell hash, being transported seawards in the main ebb channel until they reach the shallow ebb-delta front. From here, the sediment is pushed onto the eastern ebb-delta shoal by the flood current assisted by waves, becoming strongly size-sorted in the process. The medium sands together with the shell hash are formed into swash bars which migrate along arcuate paths over a base of fine sand back to the main ebb channel located south of the ebb delta. By the same token, the fine sand between the swash bars is transported south-eastwards by the flood current in the form of small dunes until it cascades into the large flood channel located to the west of Spiekeroog. From here, the fine sand is fed back into the main ebb channel, thus completing the cycle. No evidence was found on the ebb delta for alongshore sediment bypassing.  相似文献   

5.
6.
Tidal inlets along the mesotidal coast of Maine contrast with those from other parts of the world by being dominated by flood-tidal currents. Analysis of the factors responsible for flood or ebb dominance indicates factors external to the backbarrier environment. We suggest that the flood dominance is caused by both a steepening of the tidal wave in the Gulf of Maine and the shallow depth of the ebb-tidal delta and spit platform. Flood currents are typically 10–20 cm/sec stronger than the ebb at the inlet throat. The flood dominance results in a significant net landward transport of sediment into the backbarrier.  相似文献   

7.
Tidal inlets along the mesotidal coast of Maine contrast with those from other parts of the world by being dominated by flood-tidal currents. Analysis of the factors responsible for flood or ebb dominance indicates factors external to the backbarrier environment. We suggest that the flood dominance is caused by both a steepening of the tidal wave in the Gulf of Maine and the shallow depth of the ebb-tidal delta and spit platform. Flood currents are typically 10–20 cm/sec stronger than the ebb at the inlet throat. The flood dominance results in a significant net landward transport of sediment into the backbarrier.  相似文献   

8.
湛江港潮汐汊道落潮三角洲动力场模拟和沉积动态分析   总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3  
用数值模拟方法揭示湛江港潮汐汊道落潮三角洲的潮流场特征和波浪场特征,探讨落潮三角洲地貌的形成、演化过程中的沉积动力学意义,并提出湛江港落潮三角洲沉积物的运动模式。  相似文献   

9.
Process-based modeling of morphodynamics of a tidal inlet system   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
The morphodynamic evolution of an idealized inlet system is investigated using a 2-D depthaveraged process-based model,incorporating the hydrodynamic equations,Englund-Hansen’s sediment transport formula and the mass conservation equation.The model has a fixed geometry,impermeable boundaries and uniform sediment grain size,and driven by shore-parallel tidal elevations.The results show that the model reproduces major elements of the inlet system,i.e.,flood and ebb tidal deltas,inlet channel.Equilibrium is reached after several years when the residual transport gradually decreases and eventually diminishes.At equilibrium,the flow field characteristics and morphological patterns agree with the schematized models proposed by O’Brien (1969) and Hayes (1980).The modeled minimum cross-sectional entrance area of the tidal inlet system is comparable with that calculated with the statistical P-A relationship for tidal inlets along the East China Sea coast.The morphological evolution of the inlet system is controlled by a negative feedback between hydrodynamics,sediment transport and bathymetric changes.The evolution rates decrease exponentially with time,i.e.,the system develops rapidly at an early stage while it slows down at later stages.Temporal changes in hydrodynamics occur in the system;for example,the flood velocity decreases while its duration increases,which weakens the flood domination patterns.The formation of the multi-channel system in the tidal basin can be divided into two stages;at the first stage the flood delta is formed and the water depth is reduced,and at the second stage the flood is dissected by a number of tidal channels in which the water depth increases in response to tidal scour.  相似文献   

10.
Morphodynamic Processes of Tidal Inlet and Ebb-Tidal Delta of Shuidong Bay   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
Based on the observed data in 1982- 1985 at Shuidong Bay area, west Guangdong Province, the morphodynamic processes of tidal inlet and ebb-tidal delta in the barrier-lagoon system are presented, including the dynamic features of tides and in the tidal inlet, the regional dyanmics and longshore sediment transport in the ebb-tidal delta, the genesis of the entrance bar, the recent erosion and deposition in the ebb-tidal delta and so on. The paper attempts to answer two questions, i. e., the stability of the tidal inlet and the feasibility of dredging on the entrance bar for the course of Shuidong Harbour. The results show that the stability of the tidal inlet is ideal and that dredging action on the entrance bar may be successful if dredging is deep enough and the course position reasonable.  相似文献   

11.
The relationship between the flux of exotic benthic foraminiferal tests (i.e. tests which are supplied from open-sea sources alone) in a tidal inlet and that of bulk sediment was analysed, which can be expressed as two first-order linear equations. According to this relationship, in order to determine net sediment transport directions in the entrance, the test concentration in surficial sediments of the tidal basin can be compared against a ‘ critical level ’. The critical level is determined for the conditions that no net transport of bulk sediment is present within the entrance. If the observed concentration (averaged over the tidal basin) is higher than the simulated critical level, then the net sediment transport is directed to landward. This method is applied to the analysis of net sand transport at Christchurch Harbour, a tidal inlet system located in southern England. In this investigation, concentrations of exotic foraminiferal tests in the surficial sediments of the tidal basin and ebb tidal delta area were obtained from the analysis of sea-bed sediment samples. A series of probable critical levels were calculated based upon the data sets with regard to: (1) sediment discharge from the rivers; (2) magnitude of sediment discharge within the entrance during the ebb; (3) the test concentration outside the harbour; (4) the thickness of the moving layer; and (5) two parameters associated with dispersive processes. The results show that the concentration in the tidal basin sediment is higher than a number of simulated critical concentrations for representative cases. Consequently, the high level of the concentration of exotic benthic foraminiferal tests within the harbour should be explained as a result of landward net transport of sands within the entrance.  相似文献   

12.
基于湛江湾口外海图地形资料,采用GIS与动力地貌分析的方法,研究了近50年来湛江湾口外落潮三角洲的冲淤变化特征,对湛江湾口外落潮三角洲的演变机制进行了探讨.湛江口外落潮三角洲体系包括口外东北浅滩、西南边滩及口门通道深槽.近50年来,东北浅滩东缘及滩顶出现了侵蚀后退,浅滩西缘和南缘呈淤积趋势,东北浅滩整体有西移南扩趋势;...  相似文献   

13.
粤西水东湾现代沉积环境特征与泥沙搬运路径   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
对粤西水东湾沉积地貌单元的现代沉积物分布特征分析与泥沙净搬运矢量计算表明,滨面斜坡沉积物主要由砂粒级物质组成,粒级参数Md,QD和SK具有从海向岸、自东向西变化的总趋势,泥沙净搬运趋势以向岸和西北为主。落潮三角洲沉积物较其邻近滨面斜坡有所粗化,分选从中部向两侧变好,泥沙在落潮流与波浪驱动下沿落潮三角洲边缘向西运动。口门内潮汐通道深槽泥沙净搬运趋势指向湖。湖区的沉积物以泥质为主,分选中等至差,并形成绕涨潮三角洲的泥沙环流元。  相似文献   

14.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(2):159-175
The Frisian Inlet is one of the tidal basins of the Dutch Wadden Sea. In 1969, its basin area was reduced by 30%. As documented by bathymetric surveys, this has led to an import of sediment of 30×106 m3 over the first 18 years. The study presented in this paper seeks to establish the mechanisms responsible for the passage of the sediment through the throat cross-section of the inlet channel. Emphasis is on a 14-day period of relative calm when sediment transport can be attributed solely to tidal currents. Use is made of continuous measurements of velocity, sand and silt concentration. The measurement station was located on one side of the throat cross-section in a water depth of approximately 6 m. For both the sand and silt fraction of the sediment, suspended load transport is the dominant transport mode. It is shown that for sand, concentration variations and net transport are determined by the local (in the throat section) velocity. Especially the residual velocity and tidal velocity asymmetry play an important role in the net sand flux. For silt, except for transport associated with locally generated vertical mixing, the net transport is largely determined by sedimentation–erosion processes in the basin and the silt concentration in the North Sea. Comparison with measurements in a station located in the middle of the throat section shows considerable difference in residual velocity and tidal velocity asymmetry. As a result, the sediment fluxes also differ. Accurately determining the net sediment flux in the throat section would require a dense net of measurement stations.  相似文献   

15.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(2-3):255-263
To study the adaptation of the morphology of the Frisian Inlet after basin reduction an aggregate model is developed. In the model, especial attention is given to the sand transport to the down-drift coast. In developing the model the inlet system is divided into three elements, the ebb tidal delta, the Zoutkamperlaag and the tidal flats. Based on observations during the first 18 years after basin reduction the adaptation time scale of the tidal flats is expected to be much larger than that of the ebb tidal delta and the Zoutkamperlaag, essentially reducing the inlet schematization to a two-element system. The dependent variables in the model are the sand volume of the ebb tidal delta and the water volume of the channel. The governing equations are non-linear and for quantitative accurate results are solved numerically. To demonstrate the nature of the solution the equations are linearized assuming the morphological state is close to equilibrium. The linearized equations are solved analytically and the solution is applied to a hypothetical case where the tidal prism of the Frisian Inlet is reduced by 10%. From the analytical solution it follows that the adaptation of the volumes of the two elements, delta and channel, is governed by two system time scales. These system time scales are functions of two local time scales. The local time scales pertain to the adaptation of one element assuming the other element has reached equilibrium. Because there are two system scales the adaptation of the volumes of the delta and channel is not exponential and is not necessarily monotonic. For example, initially the transport of sand to the down-drift coast is larger than the long-shore sand transport entering the inlet system from the up-drift coast, then becomes smaller and after some time increases again to reach the value of the up-drift long-shore sand transport. Comparison of the numerical solution for the actual reduction in tidal prism of 30% with the analytical solution for the 10% reduction in tidal prism shows qualitatively the same results.  相似文献   

16.
Extensive vibracoring of both flood- and ebb-tidal deltas along the central Gulf Coast of the Florida peninsula reveals a strong overall similarity with subtle distinctions between flood and ebb varieties. Although the coast in question is microtidal, the inlets range from tide-dominated to distinctly wave-dominated. Both types of tidal deltas overlie a muddy sand interpreted to have been deposited in a back-barrier environment. The sharp contact at the base of the tidal delta sequence is typically overlain by a thin shell gravel layer. The ebb-tidal delta sequence is characterized by fine quartz sand with shell gravel in various concentrations; coarse and massive at the margins of the main ebb channel, and finer and imbricated at the marginal flood channels. The flood-tidal deltas are characterized by the same facies but with a small amount of mud. Shelly facies on the channels on flood deltas are not as well developed as on the ebb deltas. The combination of the stratigraphic sequence and the lithofacies make tidal deltas readily identifiable in the ancient record. The differences between flood and ebb varieties are subtle but consistent.  相似文献   

17.
A study of the East Frisian Islands has shown that the plan form of these islands can be explained by processes of inlet sediment bypassing. This island chain is located on a high wave energy, high tide range shoreline where the average deep-water significant wave height exceeds 1.0 m and the spring tidal range varies from 2.7 m at Juist to 2.9 m at Wangerooge. An abundant sediment supply and a strong eastward component of wave power (4.4 × 103 W m−1) have caused a persistent eastward growth of the barrier islands. The eastward extension of the barriers has been accommodated more by inlet narrowing, than by inlet migration.

It is estimated from morphological evidence that a minimum of 2.7 × 105 m3 of sand is delivered to the inlets each year via the easterly longshore transport system. Much of this sand ultimately bypasses the inlets in the form of large, migrating swash bars. The location where the swash bars attach to the beach is controlled by the amount of overlap of the ebb-tidal delta along the downdrift inlet shoreline. The configuration of the ebbtidal delta, in turn, is a function of inlet size and position of the main ebb channel. The swash bar welding process has caused preferential beach nourishment and historical shoreline progradation. Along the East Frisian Islands this process has produced barrier islands with humpbacked, bulbous updrift and bulbous downdrift shapes. The model of barrier island development presented in this paper not only explains well the configuration of the German barriers but also the morphology of barriers along many other mixed energy coasts.  相似文献   


18.
A new numerical model was developed to simulate regional sediment transport and shoreline response in the vicinity of tidal inlets based on the one-line theory combined with the reservoir analogy approach for volumetric evolution of inlet shoals. Sand bypassing onshore and sheltering effects on wave action from the inlet bar and shoals were taken into account. The model was applied to unique field data from the south coast of Long Island, United States, including inlet opening and closure. The simulation area extended from Montauk Point to Fire Island Inlet, including Shinnecock and Moriches Inlets. A 20-year long time series of hindcast wave data at three stations along the coast were used as input data to the model. The capacity of the inlet shoals and bars to store sand was estimated based on measured cross-sectional areas of the inlets as well as on comprehensive bathymetric surveys of the areas around the inlet. Several types of sediment sources and sinks were represented, including beach fills, groin systems, jetty blocking, inlet bypassing, and flood shoal and ebb shoal feeding. The model simulations were validated against annual net longshore transport rates reported in the literature, measured shorelines, and recorded sediment volumes in the flood and ebb shoal complexes. Overall, the model simulations were in good agreement with the measured data.  相似文献   

19.
This paper derives local formulae to estimate bed roughness and suspended transport and present a method to calculate net sediment transport at tidal inlet systems, combining field data and a range of well established empirical formulations. To accomplish this, measurements spanning a spring-tidal cycle of mean water levels, waves, near-bed flow turbulence and bed forms were obtained from the Ancão Inlet, Ria Formosa lagoon system, Portugal. High-resolution hydrodynamic data were gathered using acoustic equipments and by measuring sediment properties (grain-size diameter and bed form dimensions) under fair-weather conditions. The results compared favourably with available direct and indirect field observations of sediment transport rates. The approach appears to be robust and widely applicable and so can be applied to the same conditions in any tidal inlet system. This is of particular importance when attempting to understand sediment transport at inlet mouths, and has practical applications in a range of coastal engineering and coastal management areas concerned with navigation safety, coastal erosion, ecosystem health and water quality. The study discusses the applicability of the method on evaluating system flushing capacity, giving important insights on multiple inlet evolution, particularly with regard to their persistence through time. The methodological framework can be applied to assess the long-term stability of single- and multiple-inlet systems, provided that estimates of sediment storage at ebb-tidal deltas are available and sediment transport estimates during storm events are statistically considered.  相似文献   

20.
In May of 2005, an observational program was carried out to investigate the along channel hydrodynamics and suspended sediment transport patterns at North Inlet, South Carolina. Along channel variability, which is important in establishing sediment transport pathways, has not been characterized for this system. Measurements of water column currents, salinity, bed sediment, suspended sediment concentration, and particle size distribution were obtained over a complete tidal cycle along the thalweg of the inlet entrance. Along channel currents, shear stress and bed sediment distributions vary significantly in space and time along a 3 km section bracketing the inlet throat. Most of the variability is consistent with geomorphic controls such as bed elevation variability and channel width. The highest velocities, shear stresses, suspended sediment concentration and bed sediment grain size are observed in the narrowest section of the inlet throat. Magnitudes systematically decrease along the channel toward the marsh as changes in channel geometry and branching reduces flow energy. Due to tidal asymmetry, the ebb phase contains significantly higher currents and associated sediment transport. Over the complete tidal cycle, depth integrated transport is directed towards the marsh landward of the intersection of Town and Debidue Creek. In contrast, net transport is out of the inlet seaward of this intersection. Sediment grain size distributions show 35% more material less than 63 μm on flood, suggesting net landward transport of fines.  相似文献   

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