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1.
This paper presents measurements and analysis of fluid velocity within the context of spilling waves. The data have been collected using 2-D Laser Doppler Velocimetry in pre-breaking monochromatic waves generated in a wave tank. The analysis is performed using orthogonal wavelets and, in addition to the classical criterion adopted in applying Taylor's hypothesis, a new algorithm is proposed for the eduction of eddies at different length scales. The contribution of different scale vortices is computed, and phase is resolved. Microvortices (smaller than the breaker height but larger than the dissipative vortices) and mid-size vortices (with length ranging from the breaker height to the wave length) carry out most turbulence energy under wave crest. The phase average vorticity and strain rate is computed at different wave lengths, with the analysis of intermittence. The intermittency factor shows spikes in the wave crest, especially for turbulence in small vortices.  相似文献   

2.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,42(1):53-86
A numerical model is used to simulate wave breaking, the large scale water motions and turbulence induced by the breaking process. The model consists of a free surface model using the surface markers method combined with a three-dimensional model that solves the flow equations. The turbulence is described by large eddy simulation where the larger turbulent features are simulated by solving the flow equations, and the small scale turbulence that is not resolved by the flow model is represented by a sub-grid model. A simple Smagorinsky sub-grid model has been used for the present simulations. The incoming waves are specified by a flux boundary condition. The waves are approaching in the shore-normal direction and are breaking on a plane, constant slope beach. The first few wave periods are simulated by a two-dimensional model in the vertical plane normal to the beach line. The model describes the steepening and the overturning of the wave. At a given instant, the model domain is extended to three dimensions, and the two-dimensional flow field develops spontaneously three-dimensional flow features with turbulent eddies. After a few wave periods, stationary (periodic) conditions are achieved. The surface is still specified to be uniform in the transverse (alongshore) direction, and it is only the flow field that is three-dimensional.The turbulent structures are investigated under different breaker types, spilling, weak plungers and strong plungers. The model is able to reproduce complicated flow phenomena such as obliquely descending eddies. The turbulent kinetic energy is found by averaging over the transverse direction. In spilling breakers, the turbulence is generated in a series of eddies in the shear layer under the surface roller. After the passage of the roller the turbulence spreads downwards. In the strong plunging breaker, the turbulence originates to a large degree from the topologically generated vorticity. The turbulence generated at the plunge point is almost immediately distributed over the entire water depth by large organised vortices. Away from the bed, the length scale of the turbulence (the characteristic size of the eddies resolved by the model) is similar in the horizontal and the vertical direction. It is found to be of the order one half of the water depth.  相似文献   

3.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(5-6):463-485
A Navier–Stokes solver with a free surface model is used for simulating wave breaking, undertow, and turbulence in breaking waves. The free surface model is based on the Volume of Fluid concept. Turbulence scales larger than the grid scale are simulated directly while turbulence scales smaller than the grid scale are represented by a sub-grid scale model. Two different approaches for the sub-grid scale model have been applied, which are the Smagorinsky model and a model based on a k-equation for the sub-grid scale turbulence. The waves approach the shore in shore-normal direction and break on a plane constant sloping beach. Periodic spilling and plunging breakers are simulated for 20 and 16 wave periods, respectively. The set-up, undertow, and turbulence levels are compared to experimental results. Despite the rather coarse resolution of the computational domain, satisfactory results for the wave height decay and undertow have been obtained. However, the turbulence levels are over-predicted when using the standard values of the model parameters and a complete answer to this problem has not been found. Furthermore, the evolution of vorticity over the wave period has been studied. It shows that at the initial breaking point vorticity is generated around the vertical as well as around the transverse axis. Later vorticity around the longitudinal axis (offshore–onshore direction) is generated, probably through deformation of vorticity around the other axis.  相似文献   

4.
The characteristics of turbulence created by a plunging breaker on a 1 on 35 plane slope have been studied experimentally in a two-dimensional wave tank. The experiments involved detailed measurements of fluid velocities below trough level and water surface elevations in the surf zone using a fibre-optic laser-Doppler anemometer and a capacitance wave gage. The dynamical role of turbulence is examined making use of the transport equation for turbulent kinetic energy (the k-equation). The results show that turbulence under a plunging breaker is dominated by large-scale motions and has certain unique features that are associated with its wave condition. It was found that the nature of turbulence transport in the inner surf zone depends on a particular wave condition and it is not similar for different types of breakers. Turbulent kinetic energy is transported landward under a plunging breaker and dissipated within one wave cycle. This is different from spilling breakers where turbulent kinetic energy is transported seaward and the dissipation rate is much slower. The analysis of the k-equation shows that advective and diffusive transport of turbulence play a major role in the distribution of turbulence under a plunging breaker, while production and dissipation are not in local equilibrium but are of the same order of magnitude. Based on certain approximate analytical approaches and experimental measurements it is shown that turbulence production and viscous dissipation below trough level amount to only a small portion of the wave energy loss caused by wave breaking. It is suggested that the onshore sediment transport produced by swell waves may be tied in a direct way to the unique characteristics of turbulent flows in these waves.  相似文献   

5.
Statistical characteristics of the irradiance of an electromagnetic wave propagating in a dissipative random medium are studied. For the propagation regime of strong irradiance fluctuations, asymptotic expressions are obtained for the second statistical moment of the irradiance. The behavior of the relative variance of irradiance fluctuations is analyzed for different propagation conditions. It is shown that, if the outer scale of turbulence exceeds the maximum correlation length of irradiance fluctuations because of random attenuation, no saturation of the relative variance of irradiance fluctuations to unity occurs. Depending on the ratio between the structure characteristics of the real and imaginary parts of the permittivity and on the degree of their correlation, the relative variance of irradiance fluctuations in this case may be either an increasing, or a decreasing, or a nonmonotonic function of the path length, deviating from the level corresponding to a transparent turbulent medium. It is found that the saturation of the relative variance of irradiance fluctuations to unity in a randomly absorbing medium occurs in the region of strong fluctuations if the correlation length of irradiance fluctuations is greater than the outer scale of turbulence.  相似文献   

6.
Surface waves are the roughness element of the ocean surface, the air-sea interaction processes are influenced by the wave conditions. The dynamic influence of surface waves decays exponentially with distance from the air-water interface. The relevant length scale characterizing the decay rate is the wavelength. The parameterization of drag coefficient and surface roughness can be significantly improved by using wavelength as the reference length scale of atmospheric measurements. The wavelength scaling of drag coefficient and dynamic roughness also receives support from theoretical studies of wind and wave coupling.  相似文献   

7.
海浪破碎对海洋上混合层中湍能量收支的影响   总被引:2,自引:1,他引:2  
海浪破碎产生一向下输入的湍动能通量,在近海表处形成一湍流生成明显增加的次层,加强了海洋上混合层中的湍流垂向混合。为了研究海浪破碎对混合层中湍能量收支的影响,文中分析了海浪破碎对海洋上混合层中湍流生成的影响机制,采用垂向一维湍封闭混合模式,通过改变湍动能方程的上边界条件,引入了海浪破碎产生的湍动能通量,并分别对不同风速下海浪破碎的影响进行了数值研究,分析了混合层中湍能量收支的变化。当考虑海浪破碎影响时,近海表次层中的垂直扩散项和耗散项都有显著的增加,该次层中被耗散的湍动能占整个混合层中耗散的总的湍能量的92.0%,比无海浪破碎影响的结果增加了近1倍;由于平均流场切变减小,混合层中的湍流剪切生成减小了3.5%,形成一种存在于湍动能的耗散和垂直扩散之间的局部平衡关系。在该次层以下,局部平衡关系与壁层定律的结论一致,即湍动能的剪切生成与耗散相平衡。研究结果表明,海浪破碎在海表产生的湍动能通量影响了海洋上混合层中的各项湍能量收支间的局部平衡关系。  相似文献   

8.
This paper illustrates the modulation of the eddy scale distribution due to superimposition of surface wave on only current flow. Time series data of three-dimensional velocity components were measured in a laboratory flume by a three-dimensional (3D) 16-MHz micro-acoustic Doppler velocimeter (Micro-ADV). The velocity time series of only current case and waves following the current were analysed to obtain the phase-averaged mean velocities, turbulent intensities, and Reynolds stress. The probability density function of phase-averaged stream-wise and vertical velocity fluctuations showed bimodal oscillations towards the free surface for higher frequency surface waves. It was revealed that surface waves along the current effectively decrease the intermittency of turbulence of the only current flow. Surface wave changed the intermittent structure of only current flow by modulation of the energy cascade mechanism of the only current flow by introduction of wave induced length scales. Also the scale of the finer dissipative eddies were prominently enhanced by the increase in surface wave frequency. Wavelet analysis of time series of velocity signals provided information on the eddy scale and their frequency of occurrence. It was found that the large eddies are carried by the crest regions of the progressive wave while the small scale eddies are carried by the trough regions.  相似文献   

9.
This study numerically and experimentally investigates the effects of wave loads on a monopile-type offshore wind turbine placed on a 1: 25 slope at different water depths as well as the effect of choosing different turbulence models on the efficiency of the numerical model. The numerical model adopts a two-phase flow by solving Unsteady Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes(URANS) equations using the Volume Of Fluid(VOF) method and three different turbulence models. Typical environmental conditions from the East China Sea are studied. The wave run-up and the wave loads applied on the monopile are investigated and compared with relevant experimental data as well as with mathematical predictions based on relevant theories. The numerical model is well validated against the experimental data at model scale. The use of different turbulence models results in different predictions on the wave height but less differences on the wave period. The baseline turbulence model and Shear-Stress Transport(SST) turbulence model exhibit better performance on the prediction of hydrodynamic load, at a model-scale water depth of 0.42 m, while the laminar model provides better results for large water depths. The SST turbulence model performs better in predicting wave run-up for water depth 0.42 m, while the laminar model and standard model perform better at water depth 0.52 m and 0.62 m, respectively.  相似文献   

10.
The instantaneous turbulent velocity field produced by a broken solitary wave propagating on a 1 in 50 plane slope was measured in the longitudinal transverse plane in the middle part of the water column and near the bottom using a stereoscopic particle image velocimetry system. These measurements showed that large-scale turbulence first arrived in the form of a downburst of turbulent fluid. In the middle of the water column, the downbursts arrived shortly after the wave crest had passed. Each downburst was accompanied by two counter-rotating vortices. The latter grew rapidly in size to become a prominent feature of the flow field. Each vortex had a typical length scale of 1/2 to 1 water depth, and carried most of the turbulent kinetic energy in the region between the vortices. Near the bottom, the counter-rotating vortices were not as well defined and covered only a small plane area compared to the entire flow structure. The turbulent fluid descending from above diverged at the bed and the resulting flow structure developed an elongated shape as the source of down-flow travelled onshore with the broken wave. It was found that the transverse spacing between adjacent downbursts ranged from 2 to 5 times the local still water depth. Since vortices cannot end in the interior of the fluid, the counter-rotating vortices must extend to the free surface in the form of a vortex loop. It was suggested that these vortex loops were produced by bending and stretching of primary vorticity generated in the wave breaking process, possibly as a result of three-dimensional water surface deformation. The vortex loops were then carried downward by the falling water from the broken wave.  相似文献   

11.
各向同性均匀湍流近壁结构及泥沙起动   总被引:3,自引:1,他引:3  
采用振动格栅产生的各向同性均匀湍流研究了泥沙的起动。应用PTV技术和局部光学放大技术对湍流场进行了测量,发现近壁面湍流动能的指数分布规律。分析了泥沙在均匀同性湍流中的起动机制,并用概率统计理论对泥沙的起动进行了定量的描述。通过测定泥沙起动事件的概率,得到了同种泥沙在不同流动参数下起动的临界湍流动能。  相似文献   

12.
Results of measurements of the atmospheric turbulence in the layer between 1.5 and 21 m above sea level and the drag coefficient of the sea surface as the wind blows from a 4-km-long mountainous slope with a mean inclination of 11° are presented. The measurements of wind-speed profiles and its fluctuations at several levels, waves, and the main meteorological parameters were carried out in autumn 2005 and 2008 from a stationary platform located in the Black Sea at a distance of approximately 1 km from the southern coast of Crimea. It is shown that during weak synoptic wind a low-level wind jet develops at night over the sea with a maximum velocity up to 5–6 m/s at a level of approximately 6 m over the sea induced by the katabatic wind over the coastal slope. According to the approximate estimates, the horizontal scale of the low-level jet can reach a few tens of kilometers. This flow is characterized by the dissipation rate of the turbulence energy independent of height and low-frequency velocity fluctuations related to the gravity waves and advection of turbulence from the coast. It is shown that the lower part of the boundary layer (up to a height of 3 m) is adjusted to the sea-surface roughness. The dependencies of the drag coefficient on the wind speed or wave age are steadier than in the data for the open sea. However, the age of the waves is not a universal parameter at long and short fetches.  相似文献   

13.
《Coastal Engineering》2004,51(1):53-80
In this paper, a two-dimensional multi-scale turbulence model is proposed to study breaking waves. The purpose of developing this model is to produce a relatively accurate model with moderate computer requirements. The free surface is tracked by the VOF technique, the log-law profile for the mean velocity is applied at the bottom. Comparing with the Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes models (RANS), the present model shows improving agreement with experimental measurements in terms of surface elevations, particle velocities, wave height distributions and undertow profiles. The subgrid scale (SGS) turbulent transport mechanism is also discussed in the paper. It is found that turbulent production and dissipation are of the same order, but turbulent production is primarily located at the wavefront and above the wave trough, whereas turbulent dissipation is primarily located at the back face of a wave, indicating that in these regions, the assumption of equilibrium is not correct. Below the trough level, the local equilibrium assumption is reasonable. Turbulent convection and diffusion are of the same order at the trough level. Above the trough level, turbulent convection dominates. Under the spilling breaking wave, turbulent kinetic energy is continue to dissipate in the bore region, whereas under the plunging breaking wave, the turbulent kinetic energy is dissipated very rapidly within one wave period.  相似文献   

14.
在波浪水槽中采用格栅振动的方式产生湍流,研究振动格栅产生湍流的特征。本文开展了4类实验,调节测量点到格栅平均位置的距离、格栅振动频率、振动冲程,采用ADV测量水体中单点的脉动速度。实验结果显示,湍流强度在一定范围内随离格栅距离的增大而逐渐减小,随着振动频率的增大而呈幂指数增大,随着振动冲程的增大而呈幂指数增大。同时还比较了两个不同格栅产生湍流的不同。结果显示,在波浪水槽中,振动格栅产生湍流的强度还与格栅的长度尺寸有关,这与在水箱中振动格栅产生湍流的特征不同。  相似文献   

15.
16.
The transfer function of a differential wave slope meter having the form of a two-element resonance array is determined. The measured spectrum depends on the coherence of the wave field and on the differential wave gauge's measuring base. Theoretical calculations of the transfer function are supported by experimentally derived data. Some recommendations are suggested on how to conduct measurements in the field and under laboratory conditions. Measurement accuracies are compared and limits of applicability are defined for a method of measuring sea surface slope by means of the differential wavemeter. The results presented may be effectively used to perform measurements of surface and internal waves, turbulence, etc.Translated by V. Puchkin.  相似文献   

17.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(5-6):441-462
The structure of large-scale turbulence under a broken solitary wave on a 1 in 50 plane slope was studied. Three-component velocity measurements were taken at different heights above a smooth bed in the middle surf zone using an acoustic Doppler velocimeter. The measured data showed that turbulent velocity components were well correlated in the middle part of the water column. The velocity correlations could be produced by an oblique vortex similar to the obliquely descending eddy observed previously by other investigators. The vertical distributions of the relative values of the components of the Reynolds stress tensor showed that the structure of turbulence evolved continuously between the free surface and the bottom. The evolution was related to transition from two-dimensional to three-dimensional flow structures and the effect of the solid bottom on flow structures. Time histories of measured turbulent kinetic energy and turbulence stresses showed episodic turbulent events near the free surface but more sporadic turbulence in the lower layer. Large or intense turbulent events were found to have short duration and time lag relative to the wave crest point. These events also maintained good correlations between the turbulence velocity components close to the bottom.Instantaneous turbulent velocity fields were measured near the bottom at the same cross-shore location by using a stereoscopic particle image velocimetry system. These measurements showed that the near-bed flow field was characterized by large-scale, coherent flow structures that were the sources of most of the turbulent kinetic energy and turbulence stresses. The types of organized flow structures observed included vortices and downbursts of turbulence descending directly from above, lateral spreading of turbulent fluid along the bed, and formation of vortices in shear layers between fluid streams. A common feature of the organized flow structures near the bed was the large turbulence velocities in the longitudinal and transverse directions, which reflected the influence of a solid bottom on the breaking-wave-generated turbulence arriving at the bed.  相似文献   

18.
Large Eddy Simulation for Plunge Breaker and Sediment Suspension   总被引:1,自引:1,他引:1  
BAI  Yuchuan 《中国海洋工程》2002,16(2):151-164
Breaking waves are a powerful agent for generating turbulence that plays an important role in many fluid dynamical processes, particularly in the mixing of materials. Breaking waves can dislodge sediment and throw it into suspension, which will then be carried by wave-induced steady current and tidal flow. In order to investigate sediment suspension by breaking waves, a numerical model based on large-eddy-simulation (LES) is developed. This numerical model can be used to simulate wave breaking and sediment suspension. The model consists of a free-surface model using the surface marker method combined with a two-dimensional model that solves the flow equations. The turbulence and the turbulent diffusion are described by a large-eddy-simulation (LES) method where the large turbulence features are simulated by solving the flow equations, and a subgrid model represents the small-scale turbulence that is not resolved by the flow model. A dynamic eddy viscosity subgrid scale stress model has been used for the  相似文献   

19.
A laboratory study on the turbulence and wave energy dissipations of spilling breakers in a surf zone is presented. Instantaneous velocity fields of propagating breaking waves on a 1/20 slope were measured using Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV). Due to the large region of the evolving wave breaking generated turbulent flow, seven PIV fields of view (FOVs) were mosaicked to form a continuous flow field in the surf zone. Mean and turbulence quantities were extracted by ensemble averaging 25 repeated instantaneous measurements at each FOV. New results for distribution and evolution of turbulent kinetic energy, mean flow energy, and total energy across the surf zone were obtained from analyzing the data. The turbulence dissipation rate was estimated based on several different approaches. It was found that the vertical distribution of the turbulence dissipation rate decays exponentially from the crest level to the bottom. The resulting energy budget and energy flux were also calculated. The calculated total energy dissipation rate was compared to that based on a bore approximation. It was found that the ratio of turbulence dissipation rate to total energy dissipation rate was about 0.01 in the outer surf zone and increased to about 0.1 after the breaking waves transformed into developed turbulent bores in the inner surf zone.  相似文献   

20.
We identified a Kelvin-Helmholtz billow from vertical turbulence velocity and instantaneous heat flux signals obtained from airfoil shear probes and thermistors mounted on a research submarine. The vertical turbulence velocity indicates that the horizontal scale of the billow was about 3.5 m. The spectral slope of the vertical turbulence velocity component is close to −2, revealing the flow is two-dimensional. We show a remarkable agreement between the length scales of the observed billow and those computed from direct numerical simulations based on similar conditions. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.  相似文献   

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