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1.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(4):313-329
This study concerns the possible interrelationships of wave data among wave-measuring stations. This study uses wave records collected at Station Pi-Tou-Chiao (PTC) from 1983 to 1988, and at Station Keelung (KL) from 1983 to 1988. Depending upon the amount of consecutive data missing in the records, three methods were used to estimate their values. The methods used for data completion are: interpolation, ARMA model, and O'Carroll [O'Carroll, F.M., 1984. Weather modelling for offshore operations. The Statistician, 33, 161–169.] model. Using monthly transfer functions (TFs) between these two stations, the interrelationships of the significant wave heights measured at PTC and KL were estimated, and the records of the two measuring stations were set to have equal lengths. Assessments of the proposed methods were carried out by comparing the mean values, standard deviations, skewness, and kurtosis of both the completed and estimated wave records. The results indicate that the proposed methodologies can be used to fill in data gaps and to transfer data from one station to another—both of these methodologies are needed in the study of oceanographic time series. 相似文献
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A new numerical model was developed to simulate regional sediment transport and shoreline response in the vicinity of tidal inlets based on the one-line theory combined with the reservoir analogy approach for volumetric evolution of inlet shoals. Sand bypassing onshore and sheltering effects on wave action from the inlet bar and shoals were taken into account. The model was applied to unique field data from the south coast of Long Island, United States, including inlet opening and closure. The simulation area extended from Montauk Point to Fire Island Inlet, including Shinnecock and Moriches Inlets. A 20-year long time series of hindcast wave data at three stations along the coast were used as input data to the model. The capacity of the inlet shoals and bars to store sand was estimated based on measured cross-sectional areas of the inlets as well as on comprehensive bathymetric surveys of the areas around the inlet. Several types of sediment sources and sinks were represented, including beach fills, groin systems, jetty blocking, inlet bypassing, and flood shoal and ebb shoal feeding. The model simulations were validated against annual net longshore transport rates reported in the literature, measured shorelines, and recorded sediment volumes in the flood and ebb shoal complexes. Overall, the model simulations were in good agreement with the measured data. 相似文献
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南海及邻近海域大气-海浪-海洋耦合精细化数值预报系统研制 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
本文主要介绍了南海及邻近海域大气-海浪-海洋耦合精细化数值预报系统的研制概况。预报区域为99°E~135°E，15°S~45°N，包括渤海、黄海、东海和南海及其周边海域。为了给耦合预报模式提供较准确的预报初始场，在预报开始之前，分别进行了海浪模式和海洋模式的前24小时同化后报模拟。海浪模式和海洋模式都采用了集合调整Kalman滤波同化方法，海浪模式同化了Jason-2有效波高数据；海洋模式同化了SST数据、MADT数据和ARGO剖面数据。为了改进海洋温度和盐度的模拟，我们在海洋模式的垂向混合方案中引入波致混合和内波致混合的作用。预报系统的运行主要包括两个阶段，首先海浪模式和海洋模式进行了2014年1月至2015年10月底的同化后报模拟，强迫场源自欧洲气象中心的六小时的再分析数据产品。然后耦合预报系统将同化后报模拟的结果作为初始场进行了14个月的耦合预报。预报产品包括大气产品（气温、风速风向、气压等）、海浪产品（有效波高和波向等）、海流产品（温度、盐度和海流等）。一系列观测资料的检验比较表明该大气-海浪-海洋耦合精细化数值预报系统的预报结果较为可靠，可以为南海及周边海洋资源开发和安全保障提供数据和信息产品服务。 相似文献
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利用美国NOAA/NCEP环境模拟中心海洋模拟小组近年新开发的一个准业务化的海浪数值模式WAVEWATCH Ⅲ(以下简称WWATCH),以每天4次的NOAA/NCEP再分析风场资料为输入,模拟了1996年的南海海域的海面风浪场,通过分析TOPEX/Poseidon(以下简称T/P)高度计的上升和下降轨道在南海海域的交叉点位置处的风、浪观测资料与NCEP风场和WWATCH模式模拟的有效波高大小,可以看出,NCEP风场基本与T/P高度计的风速观测结果一致,相应的模式模拟的有效波高也基本与卫星高度计的有效波高观测结果相一致,但从空间上看,在计算区域中心附近海域的结果一致性较好,靠近计算边界附近海域的结果相对较差,但这种因边界而影响模拟结果的范围很有限;从时间上看,冬季风期间的结果一致性较好,而夏季风期间的结果偏小的趋势明显,并且这种偏小主要出现在夏季风期间的极小风速值附近。 相似文献
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本文利用普林斯顿海洋模式(POM),建立了渤、黄海风增水预报模式和渤海湾水位海流预报模式;利用正交曲线网格提高重点区域的分辨率;采用美国海洋大气局(NOAA)全球预报风场和气压场作为模式表面强迫场,将计算域边界上的天文潮预报值与风增水模式预报的余水位相叠加构建模式的边界条件,在正压条件下,模拟了渤海湾2002年的水位流场过程。结果表明,模式能够较好地再现计算域内天文潮和综合水位的预报,域内10个潮位站模式与实测分析的m1和M2分潮的振幅与迟角差均不超过5.1cm和6.3°,15个潮流站模式与实测分析的m1和M2分潮流的振幅与迟角差均不超过7.5cm/s和15.8°,模式预报的水位值与塘沽站实测值非常接近,预报精度较单纯的天文潮预报有明显提高。 相似文献
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基于＂动力-统计＂预报方法的MEOFIS（精细化气象要素客观预报）平台以相关模式预报结果为基础,结合历史实况资料建立预报模型,实现站点的精细化预报.利用2009～2011年的T639模式产品和渤海湾北部相关观测站的数据积累统计建模,并对2012～2013年海面4个季节的气温和风速进行预报统计,对比分析该平台在海面气温和风速预报中的适用性.经客观检验,1℃误差范围内,海面各季节的气温和风速预报准确率均高于陆上的预报;海面日最高、日最低和逐3 h气温预报准确率均超过68%,秋季的日最高气温、逐3 h气温和冬季的日最低气温预报最为理想,准确率分别达86.8%、75.2%和78.9%,春季的气温预报整体不理想;显著性检验结果显示：和T639直接输出的结果相比,MEOFIS在各季节的气温预报中具有明显的订正能力.2 m/s误差范围内,过渡性季节春、秋季的日最大风速预报准确率均超过75.0%,夏季的预报效果较差,但逐3 h风速预报准确率最高,达78.0%,冬季的风速预报效果整体不佳;利用总体平均经验模态分解法（EEMD）对各月逐3 h的海面气温和风速预报误差做滤波处理,结果显示MEOFIS平台对这两要素的预报误差均存在明显的双周震荡波,通过滤波可以提高二者预报的准确率,且气温预报准确率的提高更大.预报偏差和方差小的季节,预报准确率的改善更为理想. 相似文献
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Forecasting of wave parameters is necessary for many marine and coastal operations. Different forecasting methodologies have been developed using the wind and wave characteristics. In this paper, artificial neural network (ANN) as a robust data learning method is used to forecast the wave height for the next 3, 6, 12 and 24 h in the Persian Gulf. To determine the effective parameters, different models with various combinations of input parameters were considered. Parameters such as wind speed, direction and wave height of the previous 3 h, were found to be the best inputs. Furthermore, using the difference between wave and wind directions showed better performance. The results also indicated that if only the wind parameters are used as model inputs the accuracy of the forecasting increases as the time horizon increases up to 6 h. This can be due to the lower influence of previous wave heights on larger lead time forecasting and the existing lag between the wind and wave growth. It was also found that in short lead times, the forecasted wave heights primarily depend on the previous wave heights, while in larger lead times there is a greater dependence on previous wind speeds. 相似文献
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广东阳西近岸海域海浪谱分析 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
根据广东阳西近岸海域测站1a实测共4 949组的原始随机波面观测记录,用自相关函数法和快速傅里叶变换法进行谱估计,得到波谱各特征参数,并与实测波面统计的特征值进行比较,经分析,选用快速傅里叶变换法估计研究海域的实测谱,对粗谱进行平滑和分析,筛选出研究海域海浪的样本谱498个,将平滑后的谱形无维量化,得到广东阳西海域海浪无维量平均谱曲线并求出对应谱参数,计算得到谱峰频率f0为0.121,特征频率μ10、μ20分别为1.929、2.733,谱宽度ε、ν为0.83、1.39.采用5种理论频谱模式对实测无维量谱进行拟合,根据拟合结果推荐γ=1.920 5的JONSWAP谱或者b=5.7、δ=6.0、k=0.5的莆田谱作为广东阳西近岸海域的海浪谱型,对该海区的工程建设、海浪预报警报和海浪理论研究具有较好的参考作用,对我国其他类似海域也有一定的参考价值. 相似文献
9.
Forecasting seasonal to multi-year shoreline change 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
This contribution details a simple empirical model for forecasting shoreline positions at seasonal to interannual time-scales. The one-dimensional (1-D) model is a simplification of a 2-D behavioural-template model proposed by Davidson and Turner (2009). The new model is calibrated and tested using five-years of weekly video-derived shoreline data from the Gold Coast, Australia. The modelling approach first utilises a least-squares methodology to calibrate the empirical model coefficients using the first half of the dataset of observed shoreline movement in response to known forcing by waves. The model is then verified by comparison of hindcast shoreline positions to the second half of the observed shoreline dataset. One thousand synthetic time-series of wave height and period are generated that encapsulate the statistical characteristics of the modelled wave field, retaining the observed seasonal variability and sequencing characteristics. The calibrated model is used in conjunction with the simulated wave time-series to perform Monte Carlo forecasting of the resulting shoreline positions. The ensemble-mean of the 1000 individual five-year shoreline simulations is compared to the unseen shoreline time-series. A simple linear trend forecast of the shoreline position was used as a baseline for assessing the performance of the model. The model performance relative to this baseline prediction was quantified by several objective methods, including cross-correlation (r), root mean square (RMS) error analysis and Brier Skill tests. Importantly, these tests involved no prior knowledge of either the wave forcing or shoreline response. The new forecast model was found to significantly improve shoreline predictions relative to the simple linear trend model, capturing well both the trend and seasonal shoreline variabilities observed at this site. Brier Skill Scores (BSS) indicate that the model forecasts based on unseen data were rated as ‘excellent’ (BSS = 0.83), and root mean square errors were less than 7 m (≈ 14% of the observed variability). The standard deviations of the 1000 individual simulations from ensemble-averaged ‘mean’ forecast were found to provide a useful means of predicting the higher-frequency (individual storm) shoreline variability, with 98% of the observed shoreline data falling within two standard deviations of the forecast position. 相似文献
10.
To assess the flood protection capacity of dunes in The Netherlands, a semi-probabilistic dune-erosion prediction method is currently in use in which uncertainties in input parameters of an empirical dune erosion model were taken into account, with the exception of the uncertainty in the extreme surge distribution. Previous research has shown that the surge is by far the most influential parameter affecting erosion in the currently used erosion model, which is due both to the influence of the surge level itself and to the conditional dependence of the wave height and period on the surge level in the probabilistic model used for the assessment. Furthermore, the distribution of extreme surge levels has been shown to contain large statistical uncertainty. The inclusion of uncertainty in input variables into probabilistic models results in more extreme events (in this case erosion) for the same exceedance probability, largely due to the incorporation of higher values of the input variables. The goal of the research described in this paper was to determine the impact of the inclusion of uncertainty in the extreme surge distribution on the estimate of critical erosion (erosion associated with an exceedance frequency of 10− 5 per year). The uncertainty in the surge distributions was estimated and parameterized, and was incorporated into the probabilistic model. A reduction in uncertainty was subsequently imposed to estimate what value a reduction in uncertainty can offer, in terms of the impact on critical erosion. The probabilistic technique first-order reliability method (FORM) was applied to determine the relative contribution of the uncertainty in the surge distribution (as well as the remaining stochastic variables) to the critical erosion. The impact of the inclusion of uncertainty in the surge distribution on the critical retreat distance was found to be substantial with increases ranging from 34% to 93% of the original estimate at five locations along the Dutch coast. The reduced uncertainty showed a more subtle impact, with increases in critical retreat distance ranging from 10% to 26% of the original estimate. The relative importance analysis showed that the uncertainty in the surge distribution has a strong influence, with the relative importance ranging from 10% to 23% for an exceedance frequency of 10− 5 per year. 相似文献
11.
In this paper, first we introduce the wave run-up scale which describes the degree of wave run-up based on observed sea conditions near and on a coastal structure. Then, we introduce a simple method which can be used for daily forecast of wave run-up on a coastal structure. The method derives a multiple linear regression equation between wave run-up scale and offshore wind and wave parameters using long-term photographical observation of wave run-up and offshore wave forecasting model results. The derived regression equation then can be used for forecasting the run-up scale using the offshore wave forecasting model results. To test the implementation of the method, wave run-up scales were observed at four breakwaters in the East Coast of Korea for 9 consecutive months in 2008. The data for the first 6 months were used to derive multiple linear regression equations, which were then validated using the run-up scale data for the remaining 3 months and the corresponding offshore wave forecasting model results. A comparison with an engineering formula for wave run-up is also made. It is found that this method can be used for daily forecast and warning of wave run-up on a coastal structure with reasonable accuracy. 相似文献
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K. F. Cheung A. C. Phadke Y. Wei R. Rojas Y. J. -M. Douyere C. D. Martino S. H. Houston P. L. -F. Liu P. J. Lynett N. Dodd S. Liao E. Nakazaki 《Ocean Engineering》2003,30(11):1353-1386
This paper describes a model package that simulates coastal flooding resulting from storm surge and waves generated by tropical cyclones. The package consists of four component models implemented at three levels of nested geographic regions, namely, ocean, coastal, and nearshore. The operation is automated through a preprocessor that prepares the computational grids and input atmospheric conditions and manages the data transfer between components. The third generation spectral wave model WAM and a nonlinear long-wave model calculate respectively the wave conditions and storm surge over the ocean region. The simulation results define the water levels and boundary conditions for the model SWAN to transform the storm waves in coastal regions. The storm surge and local tides define the water level in each nearshore region, where a Boussinesq model uses the wave spectra output from SWAN to simulate the surf-zone processes and runup along the coastline. The package is applied to hindcast the coastal flooding caused by Hurricanes Iwa and Iniki, which hit the Hawaiian Island of Kauai in 1982 and 1992, respectively. The model results indicate good agreement with the storm-water levels and overwash debris lines recorded during and after the events, demonstrating the capability of the model package as a forecast tool for emergency management. 相似文献
14.
Examination of wind-wave interaction source term in WAVEWATCH III with tropical cyclone wind forcing
Results of drag coefficient(CD) from field observations and laboratory wave tank experiments indicate that the operational wave model can overestimate wind energy input under high wind conditions. The wind-wave interaction source term in WAVEWATCH Ⅲ has been modified to examine its behavior with tropical cyclone wind forcing. Using high resolution wind input,numerical experiments under idealized wind field and tropical cyclone Bonnie(1998) were designed to evaluate performance of the modified models. Both experiments indicate that the modified models with reduced CD significantly decrease wind energy input into the wave model and then simulate lower significant wave height(SWH) than the original model. However,the effects on spatial distribution of SWH,mean wavelength,mean wave direction,and directional wave spectra are insignificant. Due to the reduced wind energy input,the idealized experiment shows that the modified models simulate lower SWH than the original model in all four quadrants. The decrease in the front quadrants is significantly larger than that in the rear quadrants;it is larger under higher winds than lower winds. The realistic experiment on tropical cyclone Bonnie shows that the modified model with the various downward trends of CD in high winds creates a simulation that agrees best with scanning radar altimeter observations. 相似文献
15.
使用SP2100波潮仪和ADCP海流计等多种先进仪器在台风季节进行了波浪、海流和潮汐观测,在取得大量现场观测子料基础上,结合长期的岸站资料对该海域的水文特征及水动力特征进行了系统综合分析。通过2002年对日照港深水航道海域含沙量和水深测量等成果,进行断面输沙、航道冲淤量及航道海域泥沙数值模拟等方面的计算,并采用POM模式。选择了几种有代表性的风浪情况,分别对港口附近海域进行了“波浪掀沙、潮流输沙和海底演变”的数值模拟。通过上述方法,对1998年12月竣工的-11m水深的航道的淤积状况进行了探讨,并推荐方案1为深水航道的首选方案,方案5居次。 相似文献
16.
The CLASH database was analyzed for extraction of a set of data having the measured wave heights at both the deep station and the toe of the structure for wave overtopping tests, yielding 1214 data from 29 datasets. Wave heights in front of the toe of the structure were estimated with the Goda formulas and compared with the measured ones. Comparison yielded the overall mean of 1.106 with the standard deviation of 0.155 for the ratio of the estimated to the measured heights, which support the use of the Goda formulas for prediction of nearshore wave heights. Another set of 1215 data having the measured wave heights at the deep station and the wave heights calculated with the SWAN model was also extracted from the CLASH database. A comparative test of the SWAN model using the wave height estimated with the Goda formulas in lieu of the measured height indicated the performance of the SWAN model being similar to that of the Goda formulas, but a tendency of underestimation was noticed in shallow water on a beach of very gentle slope. 相似文献
17.
Wave dissipation by vegetation with layer schematization in SWAN 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Tomohiro Suzuki Marcel ZijlemaBastiaan Burger Martijn C. MeijerSiddharth Narayan 《Coastal Engineering》2012,59(1):64-71
The energy of waves propagating through vegetation is dissipated due to the work done by the waves on the vegetation. Dalrymple et al. (1984) estimated wave dissipation by integrating the force on a cylinder over its vertical extent. This was extended by Mendez and Losada (2004) to include varying depths and the effects of wave damping due to vegetation and wave breaking for narrow-banded random waves. This paper describes the wave dissipation over a vegetation field by the implementation of the Mendez and Losada formulation in a full spectrum model SWAN, with an extension to include a vertical layer schematization for the vegetation. The present model is validated with the original equation and results from Mendez and Losada (2004). The sensitivity of the model to the shape of the frequency spectrum, directional spreading and layer schematization are investigated. The model is then applied to field measurements by using a vegetation factor. This model has the ability to calculate two-dimensional wave dissipation over a vegetation field including some important aspects such as breaking and diffraction as used in SWAN model. 相似文献
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LAGFD-WAM海浪数值模式是一种第三代海浪数值模式，通过求解波数谱平衡方程，并考虑风输入、波浪破碎耗散、底摩擦耗散、波波非线性相互作用和波流相互作用等源函数，模拟波数空间下的海浪方向谱，并依此获得海浪的波高、周期和平均波向。该模式的一个显著特点是采用特征线嵌入格式求解海浪的传播。在进行浅水区域的海浪模拟时，特征线嵌入格式的数值计算方案是否合理对海浪数值模拟结果产生直接的影响。为此LAGFD-WAM海浪数值模式提出了一种新的特征线混合数值计算格式，并应用于浅水海浪数值模拟。结果表明，采用该计算方法，能够使数值模拟结果与实测结果很好符合。 相似文献
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海滩修复工程影响下的低能海岸波浪能量时空分布特征研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
本研究基于第三代海浪模式SWAN(Simulating Wave Nearshore),对茅尾海及其邻近海域波浪场进行了为期1 a的数值模拟,利用实测资料验证了该模型的可靠性。根据模型计算结果分析了茅尾海海域波浪要素的时空分布特征,在此基础上进一步探讨了波浪能量的输入耗散过程以及海滩修复对波浪能量空间分布的影响。研究发现茅尾海海域年平均有效波高空间分布不均,湾外年平均有效波高约0.2-0.4 m,湾内仅0.05-0.15 m,且存在较明显的季节变化特征,夏季波高大于冬季。研究区海域夏季波能输入与耗散项均大于冬季,全年主要的波能耗散过程为底摩擦耗散且空间分布不均,存在波能耗散密集区和稀疏区。海滩修复前后海滩前沿波浪能量分布变化显著,海滩修复后滩面前沿纵向轴线分布波高平均增加23.7%,波能增加63.0%,横向轴线上波高增加百分比随离岸距离的变大而逐渐减小,最大波高增加百分比为13.9%,最大波能增加43.8%。研究结果表明合理的海滩修复工程能够有效提升作用于滩面的波浪能量,从而改善修复海滩的动力条件,降低海滩泥化风险,有利于提高海滩质量。该研究可为低能海岸的海滩修复工程提供一定的科学依据。 相似文献